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Messages - denny

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9061
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: high gravity stout
« on: December 03, 2012, 09:28:31 AM »
Sounds like stratification to me. Did you do a partial boil, then top off to get your full volume? If the boiled wort isn't fully mixed in with the topoff water, then you won't get an accurate gravity reading.

I agree that this sounds likely.  I get high readings regularly if I do not make sure my wort and top off are thoroughly mixed.

It could also be that your volume is wrong.

I'll third the stratification.

9062
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dryhopping in bags: Am I Oxidizing?
« on: December 02, 2012, 01:29:19 PM »
Yeah been dryhopping in the keg for years - great but can get grassy/vegetal.

Either I don't get that from dry hopping in the keg, or I don't notice it, or I must like it.  At any rate, I've never found it to be a problem.

9063
Equipment and Software / Re: New upgrade to my setup
« on: December 02, 2012, 10:02:21 AM »
Nice!  I used a similar sink with only cold water for about 10 years.  Cleaning up in winter was no fun!  About a year ago I installed base cabinets, a dual well SS sink and under counter water heater.  What a luxury!

9064
Classifieds / Re: 10 gal Cornies on eBay
« on: December 02, 2012, 09:55:44 AM »
About 10 years ago our club did a mass purchase of 100+ 10 gal. cornies.  We got them for about $15 each.  Time have changed.

9065
All Things Food / Re: Kitchen Knives
« on: December 01, 2012, 03:30:03 PM »
Have the Fibrox handled victorinox and really like them.  Might just get the chefs knife and build up from there.

Same here.  Choice of Cook's Illustrated and I love them.  When I bought my last one, the guy at the knife shop said they're what just about every chef in town uses.  Great knives don't have to be expensive.  The 8" chef's knife is $25-30 and the 3 1/2 in. paring knife is about 6 bucks.

9066
Ingredients / Re: Irish Moss Smell?
« on: December 01, 2012, 01:33:26 PM »
it is both
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chondrus_crispus

<edited to add>
I should point out, "algae" is a scientific classification, "seaweed" is not.  Algae could be used imprecisely too of course.

Which is why I said "not necessarily" ;)

9068
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Double Boiling, Double Fermentation
« on: December 01, 2012, 12:24:11 PM »
Isn't it more or less common knowledge that a mash out can accelerate conversion? I know that when I incorporate one I can count on >95% conversion, whereas after a 60 min rest I've occasionally seen CE as low as ~85%.

Yeah, although I wouldn't call it a mash out if the purpose isn't to denature enzymes.  I've found that raising the grain bed temp at the end of the mash does increase my efficiency.  But I don't do any kind of rest with it.  Just stir in the water, vorlauf and run off.

9069
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Double Boiling, Double Fermentation
« on: December 01, 2012, 11:01:21 AM »
Beats me why you don't see efficiency increase. I can get up to 90% that way with a low grain brew like a bitter, while the regular way gives me ~65-70. 75-80% with bigger grain bills. Don't think it's conversion because I did a 2 hour mash once and it ran off at around 65%, while 60+30 min gives me considerably higher yield. Seems pretty logical to me...

Well, if it works for you it works, but I think you're misattributing the reason.

9070
I'm finally gonna break the 4 month brewing hiatus with Dean Larson's "Christmas Tree Ale" recipe.

9071
Going Pro / getting 30 bbls on line
« on: November 30, 2012, 11:44:52 AM »
Congrats!

9072
Yeast and Fermentation / Double Boiling, Double Fermentation
« on: November 30, 2012, 09:56:32 AM »
I find that collecting first runnings followed by putting in more water into the mash, mixing well, letting sit for another 30 or so minutes and collecting second runnings (mixing first and second, obviously) extracts way more out of the grain than fly sparging.

Let me understand.  You mash in and mash out.  Collect all of your first wort runnings and then you add water back to your mashed grains, let sit for another 30 minutes and then collect enough 2nd runnings to combine with first runnings for you boil.  I assume the water you add is +/- 170 to 175ish and you would collect around 6.25 to 6.50 gallons for a 5 gallons batch.

Is this batch sparging?

Nope.  Batch sparging would be adding the second water addition and running off immediately.  I don't really see the point of letting the second water addition sit for 30 min.

The point is to let more sugars dissolve out of the grain into the water. May not seem like it would help, but it really does.

But that's contrary to the theory of batch sparging.  And why wouldn't it be generally applicable to everyone?  Why don't I or others see efficiency oncreases from it?  I think you have another issue.

9073
Equipment and Software / Sparge for Picnic Cooler Tun
« on: November 29, 2012, 01:49:56 PM »
Many times I just poured it back directly with no deflector and it never mattered.

That's the way I've always done it.

9074
Ingredients / Cranberries in American Brown Porter
« on: November 29, 2012, 01:48:02 PM »
If you boil them you could set the pectin and end up with porter jello!

9075
All Grain Brewing / Iostar to measure starch?
« on: November 29, 2012, 01:39:06 PM »
I think iodine tests are useful and brewers should know how to do them correctly to troubleshoot mash conversion issues: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Iodine_Test

Kai

Obviously if you're going to do them you should know how to do them correctly.  Unfortunately I've seen far too may people who don't know how.  And troubleshooting a problem is about the only use I can see for it.  As a regular procedure it just seems pointless.

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