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Messages - denny

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9241
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Saaz and Cascade in an IPA?
« on: March 26, 2011, 08:55:47 AM »
That might work.  What's the AA of the hops?

9242
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I'm really doing it!
« on: March 26, 2011, 08:54:40 AM »
You're finally brewing again and you're making 12 gal. of honey wheat???  What are ya gonna make for yer husband??  ;)

9243
All Grain Brewing / Re: dough-in method
« on: March 26, 2011, 08:53:27 AM »
Quote
I've done the "add too hot-water to tun until it hits strike temperature" technique, which works well, but sometimes wastes a lot of time waiting for the temperature to come down.

I've heard of people having a bucket of ice for tweaking.

That's what I do, although it's a bowl, not a bucket.  I can also use the bowl of ice for quick cooling a hydrometer sample that I put in a metal cocktail shaker.

9244
All Grain Brewing / Re: dough-in method
« on: March 26, 2011, 08:47:22 AM »
sounds like a lot of good methods here.  i'm too nervous about adding all the hot liquor to a mash tun full of grain or just dumping all the grain at once into a mash tun full of hot liquor.  i might be overanalyzing it, but i cringe at the thought of dough-balls in my mash.

i guess i'm looking for a better way to pour my grain into the mash tun - a more controlled pour.  thinking of a way to not be hugging a grain bucket with one arm and stirring in with another.  using a scoop isn't a bad idea, i've got a 2Qt pitcher kickin around here... somewhere.

THANKS FOR THE INPUT, Y'ALL!    ;D

I put my grain into a paper bag after it's crushed.  Then I hold the bag under my left arm and pour slowly while stirring with my right.  Virtually no doughballs and since you're going fairly slowly you can see them and break them up as they happen.  Also, the slow stirring allows plenty of time to get the tempo equilibriated in all parts of the cooler.

9245
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mock Pilsener
« on: March 26, 2011, 08:44:36 AM »
I agree with the US-05 suggestion, as you probably want a clean fermenting yeast. Also, I've never used it, but Cry Havoc is supposed to be good for both ales and lagers, and ferments clean.

IME, neither Cry Havoc nor 2112 makes as clean a pseudo lager as 1007.

9246
The Pub / Re: English Ales - Am I alone
« on: March 26, 2011, 08:43:37 AM »
So, is there anyone out there that just likes a plain old 4 or 4.5% English Bitter or Pale Ale?  

Lots of people, but I'm not one of them.

9247
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Saaz and Cascade in an IPA?
« on: March 26, 2011, 08:42:31 AM »
My concern would be that the Saaz would be overwhelmed by the Cascade, but I haven't actually done it.  Seems like the flavors would play well together as long as the Saaz came through.

9248
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Feremenation - WYEAST 1214
« on: March 25, 2011, 03:51:50 PM »
those brew belts (in my experience) are very unpredictable.

I agree with ya completely, man.  I've had better luck with a water bath and an aquarium heater.

9249
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Feremenation - WYEAST 1214
« on: March 25, 2011, 01:26:47 PM »
it had been in primary for a total of 8 days.  the last day and a half is when it was at the high temp.

You could be in for a bubblegum/banana bomb with that yeast at that temp.  Hopefully I'm wrong.

9250
All Grain Brewing / Re: dough-in method
« on: March 25, 2011, 01:25:46 PM »
I used to preheat but I decided it was one extra step that I didn't need to do.  I just took about 3 batches to experiment and find out how much hotter my water had to be if I didn't.  I hit my mash temps within a degree.

My MT temp can vary from the teens to 90*(70 qt. Extreme w/copper manifold, stored in unheated garage) so I preheat. Otherwise I would use your SOP.

Interesting.  Mine stays in the garage, which can be anywhere from 35-90F and it doesn't seem to have much effect.

9251
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Feremenation - WYEAST 1214
« on: March 25, 2011, 11:22:00 AM »
How long had it been in primary?

9252
All Grain Brewing / Re: dough-in method
« on: March 25, 2011, 10:23:29 AM »
I used to preheat but I decided it was one extra step that I didn't need to do.  I just took about 3 batches to experiment and find out how much hotter my water had to be if I didn't.  I hit my mash temps within a degree.

9253
All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch Sparge Draining
« on: March 25, 2011, 10:22:08 AM »
I have heard of a risk of astringency from exposing the grain bed to air.  Is this just for extended periods of time?

I don't believe it's true at all, and I'm hard pressed to think of a reason it would be.  You certainly don't need to worry about it as a batch sparging homebrewer.

9254
All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch Sparge Draining
« on: March 25, 2011, 09:06:27 AM »
Everything I read about batch sparging says to "drain" the mash tun and add the sparge water.  Do you actually drain all the wort out or stop and leave some water in so that the grains are still wet?  I guess I am wondering how much to drain the mash tun?

Drain until there's nothing coming out any longer.  If you feel like it, you can tilt your cooler to get the last bits out.  How much you get depends on the cooler you use.  I seldom get more than a few cups by tilting, others get a couple qt.

9255
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: not fermenting
« on: March 25, 2011, 09:04:26 AM »
Good to hear, Andy!  FWIW, leaky bucket lids and messages about the beer not fermenting are pretty common.  So, you've just joined the club!

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