That might work. What's the AA of the hops?
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QuoteI've done the "add too hot-water to tun until it hits strike temperature" technique, which works well, but sometimes wastes a lot of time waiting for the temperature to come down.
I've heard of people having a bucket of ice for tweaking.
sounds like a lot of good methods here. i'm too nervous about adding all the hot liquor to a mash tun full of grain or just dumping all the grain at once into a mash tun full of hot liquor. i might be overanalyzing it, but i cringe at the thought of dough-balls in my mash.
i guess i'm looking for a better way to pour my grain into the mash tun - a more controlled pour. thinking of a way to not be hugging a grain bucket with one arm and stirring in with another. using a scoop isn't a bad idea, i've got a 2Qt pitcher kickin around here... somewhere.
THANKS FOR THE INPUT, Y'ALL!
I agree with the US-05 suggestion, as you probably want a clean fermenting yeast. Also, I've never used it, but Cry Havoc is supposed to be good for both ales and lagers, and ferments clean.
those brew belts (in my experience) are very unpredictable.
it had been in primary for a total of 8 days. the last day and a half is when it was at the high temp.
I used to preheat but I decided it was one extra step that I didn't need to do. I just took about 3 batches to experiment and find out how much hotter my water had to be if I didn't. I hit my mash temps within a degree.
My MT temp can vary from the teens to 90*(70 qt. Extreme w/copper manifold, stored in unheated garage) so I preheat. Otherwise I would use your SOP.
I have heard of a risk of astringency from exposing the grain bed to air. Is this just for extended periods of time?
Everything I read about batch sparging says to "drain" the mash tun and add the sparge water. Do you actually drain all the wort out or stop and leave some water in so that the grains are still wet? I guess I am wondering how much to drain the mash tun?