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Messages - denny

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9256
I am planning to introduce my boss to all-grain brewing.  We will do a high gravity pale ale with Danstar Munich yeast.  It's what I like to call an Uberdampfbier.

Good on ya, Doug!

9257
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Why go all grain?
« on: March 24, 2011, 10:06:56 AM »
A year or so ago I had to develop an extract version of my Waldo Lake amber recipe for NB to make into a kit.  It actually turned out really close to the AG version and was totally fun to make.

9258
That's a guy who tales himself entirely too seriously....

9259
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mock Pilsener
« on: March 24, 2011, 10:04:00 AM »
I've had my best luck making pseudo lagers using WY1007.  You need to ferment it as cool as you can and be prepared for a couple months of cold conditioning afterwards.  However, that will be true no matter what yeast you use.  I find 1007 give a clean crispness that's very much like a lager yeast.

9260
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: HOPS IN THE KETTLE
« on: March 24, 2011, 08:33:56 AM »
Anyone out there able to directly measure IBUs?  I'd love to repeat the test and get a real measurement.

Great test and thanks for the info.  I take it you didn't add 10% more hops to the bagged brews?  I can hook you up with the same lab that did IBU testing for my FWH experiment.  Shoot me a PM.

9261
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Why go all grain?
« on: March 24, 2011, 08:30:21 AM »
Answer this:

 Why extract brew? Just go buy some already made by a professional brewery and save all kinds of time and trouble.

Well, Mr. T, I'ma gonna have to disagree.  Extract brewing is still doing at least part of it yourself and giving you some control over the procedure, as well as the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself.  Of course, AG takes that a step further, but I can recall how proud my friends and I were of the extract beers we made and how well many of them turned out.  Maybe some of you "AG only" guys need to go back and make an extract batch again and challenge yourselves to see how well you can do it.

9262
Homebrew Clubs / Re: First Paris Homebrewer Meeting
« on: March 24, 2011, 08:24:23 AM »
Thanks for the translation. I took French in high school, but we're talking 20 years ago...

I took Latin in jr. high and all I can remember is how to say "Rome has big sewers"....

So how do you say it? Don't leave us hangin' like that!

Roma magnum cloacem habet.

Take that!   ;D

9263
Well, the AHA removed the link to the video from our site as I requested.  I agree the production values were good, but speaking as someone who's spent over 30 years in the production biz, if the content isn't accurate, all you're left with is a good looking nothing.

9264
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: You know you're a homebrewer when...
« on: March 24, 2011, 08:17:54 AM »
I found the motherload.........

http://www.tastybrew.com/humor/

One of the few worthwhile things on that site....

9265
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: starter with old slurry
« on: March 24, 2011, 08:16:03 AM »
How much longer lag?  I have to admit, I don't worry much about lag time unless it's excessive...like 3 days.

9266
I've got some 3522 on the stir plate.  I'll either do something Chouffe-ish or a Belg.-Am. IPA with it.

9267
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: HOPS IN THE KETTLE
« on: March 23, 2011, 02:14:59 PM »
There is a bit of a decrease in utilization due to using a bag.  The commonly quoted figure is 10%, although I don't know if that's strictly accurate.  I use a bag for whole hops and haven't really found a downside.  I increase the amount I use by 10%.

9268
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Plastic off flavor in Wheat beer?
« on: March 23, 2011, 10:00:33 AM »
What's wrong with Carbon filtration? I run mine through a filter and have had it tested and there is no chlorine in water (I do double filter).

Absolutely nothing wrong with it if you have one.

9269
Homebrew Clubs / Re: First Paris Homebrewer Meeting
« on: March 23, 2011, 09:52:00 AM »
Thanks for the translation. I took French in high school, but we're talking 20 years ago...

I took Latin in jr. high and all I can remember is how to say "Rome has big sewers"....

9270
I'll leave it in for the full week.  I am still not sure who is right.  I keep reading conflicting posts on if I should leave it in the primary for two weeks before I bottle/keg, or if I should rack to a secondary.  I have normally racked to a secondary carboy after the first week, but I think for this batch, I'll let it sit for a full 2 weeks in the primary and see how things turn out.  I usually prime with sugar for the third week and rack it into the keg, clear the air with some CO2 and let it self carbonate a bit before I put it in the fridge and tap it.

Would you believe John Palmer, from his answer in the Ask the Experts section?

Twenty years ago, a homebrewed beer typically had better flavor, or perhaps less risk of off-flavors, if it was racked off the trub and clarified before bottling. Today that is not the case.

The risk inherent to any beer transfer, whether it is fermenter-to-fermenter or fermenter-to-bottles, is oxidation and staling. Any oxygen exposure after fermentation will lead to staling, and the more exposure, and the warmer the storage temperature, the faster the beer will go stale.

Racking to a secondary fermenter used to be recommended because staling was simply a fact of life – like death and taxes. But the risk of autolysis was real and worth avoiding – like cholera. In other words, you know you are going to die eventually, but death by cholera is worth avoiding.

But then modern medicine appeared, or in our case, better yeast and better yeast-handling information. Suddenly, death by autolysis is rare for a beer because of two factors: the freshness and health of the yeast being pitched has drastically improved, and proper pitching rates are better understood. The yeast no longer drop dead and burst like Mr. Creosote from Monty Python’s The Meaning of Life when fermentation is complete – they are able to hibernate and wait for the next fermentation to come around. The beer has time to clarify in the primary fermenter without generating off-flavors. With autolysis no longer a concern, staling becomes the main problem. The shelf life of a beer can be greatly enhanced by avoiding oxygen exposure and storing the beer cold (after it has had time to carbonate).

Therefore I, and Jamil and White Labs and Wyeast Labs, do not recommend racking to a secondary fermenter for ANY ale, except when conducting an actual second fermentation, such as adding fruit or souring. Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary, and therefore the risk of oxidation is completely avoidable. Even lagers do not require racking to a second fermenter before lagering. With the right pitching rate, using fresh healthy yeast, and proper aeration of the wort prior to pitching, the fermentation of the beer will be complete within 3-8 days (bigger = longer). This time period includes the secondary or conditioning phase of fermentation when the yeast clean up acetaldehyde and diacetyl. The real purpose of lagering a beer is to use the colder temperatures to encourage the yeast to flocculate and promote the precipitation and sedimentation of microparticles and haze.

So, the new rule of thumb: don’t rack a beer to a secondary, ever, unless you are going to conduct a secondary fermentation.

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