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Messages - denny

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9331
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Hop Rocket Randall and Grassy Flavors
« on: August 07, 2012, 09:23:50 AM »
I don't own a Randall, but I've never had a Randall-hopped beer that was superior to the original. I find the affects to be overwhelmingly "grassy".

Maybe there's a technique to Randallize beer without this flavor, or maybe that's just the flavor you get...

I agree with your assessment.

9332
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: New iPhone Brewing App
« on: August 06, 2012, 02:44:39 PM »
I was using a 60qt Coleman Xtreme and it was filled halfway.  I didn't preheat but I brewed in the midday sun on a 100F day so maybe that is preheating enough.  I checked the temp with a fairly inexpensive bimetal thermometer, can't say it is right on but I've been using it.

I don't preheat either.  Some years back I decided that was a step I could skip so I figured out how I could adjust the thermal mass variable in Promash to account for it.  I calibrated my brewing thermonmeter against a certified lab thermo the day before I brewed so I'm pretty sure it was right on.

9333
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fauxpils results and discussion
« on: August 06, 2012, 02:42:55 PM »
I get similar efficiency with a no-sparge where I use all the water in the mash.

Lennie, do you mash really thin or do you mash at a "normal" ratio and then add water before you run off?
I mash thin, all the water is in the MLT the whole time.  Its generally a ratio of about 3.25qt/lb for a 1.050 range recipe and goes up for bigger grain bills (to compensate for the absorbed water).

I suppose it wouldn't matter if I mashed at 2qt/lb and added the water, if all thats going on is the extra buffering effect of the components in the wort.  I just like the idea of steeping in a more dilute solution, less chance of high concentrations of solutes inhibiting further solubilization.

Thanks.  I think I'm gonna start experimenting with this.

9334
Equipment and Software / Re: Fryer for boils
« on: August 06, 2012, 01:52:39 PM »
I thought the site I found said that only Fermcap S must be filtered, Fermcap AT does not. No real distinction on your link.
 
I only use it in starters, but that makes me wonder. Good old paying attention works for the kettle.

I had heard that also, so I bought some AT.  But I've come around to your way of thinking...I use a little for starters, but I'm back to using a spray bottle for the kettle.

9335
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fauxpils results and discussion
« on: August 06, 2012, 01:45:09 PM »
What was the equipment set up for this? How did he maintain temperature?

Damn, I wish I could remember more, but there was drinking involved!  All I can recall is that he had a very innovative little setup.  I'll try to find out when the info will get posted.

9336
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What are you paying for your yeast?
« on: August 06, 2012, 01:41:01 PM »
with prices like this I'm surprised that there aren't more home brewers that maintain their own slants.

Kai

I did for several years, but finally decided it wasn't worth my time.

Why?  I don't want to spend the $ on the equipment to come up with the same conclusion.  Washing and reusing is working just fine.

Dave

It required a semi regular schedule of reslanting every few months.  As I've said many times, I'm basically lazy and I found it difficult to make time to do the maintenance that it took.  My main incentive was to make sure that I had CL50 around and once Wyeast started carrying it there really wasn't a big reason for me to continue.  Sure, it costs me some money now when I have to buy yeast, but it also frees up my time to do other stuff.

9337
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fauxpils results and discussion
« on: August 06, 2012, 12:33:02 PM »
I get similar efficiency with a no-sparge where I use all the water in the mash.

Lennie, do you mash really thin or do you mash at a "normal" ratio and then add water before you run off?

9338
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What are you paying for your yeast?
« on: August 06, 2012, 12:29:56 PM »
with prices like this I'm surprised that there aren't more home brewers that maintain their own slants.

Kai

I did for several years, but finally decided it wasn't worth my time.

9339
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What are you paying for your yeast?
« on: August 06, 2012, 11:49:33 AM »
About $7-7.25 at the LHBS.  Dates are usually 1-2 weeks before I buy it.  It's good to live close to Wyeast!

9340
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fauxpils results and discussion
« on: August 06, 2012, 11:48:17 AM »
Got it.

9341
So roughly the same level as someone who drinks a lot of Dogfish Head? ;D

 ;D

9342
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fauxpils results and discussion
« on: August 06, 2012, 11:21:11 AM »
But I don't think it would actually raise the IBU limit.  Maybe just your perception of IBU.  And what about the increased tannins from the decoction?  Could they be mistaken for additional bitterness?  In order to know you'd have to do 2 identical batches, one decocted and the other not, and then have them analyzed.

IBU is just a measurement of isomerized alpha acids, correct? If so, is there a scale or way to determine perceived bitterness? Kinda like in meteorology where there's the measured temperature and the heat index. I think it's pretty common to perceive low-level astringency as bitterness. If your IPA recipe is really close to where you want it, and you just need a little bit more dry bitterness, decoction may be something to think about. I guess you could just mash out too hot if you wanted more tannins, but I think it'd be easier to control the amount of tannin extraction via decoction.

I don't know of any way to measure perceived bitterness, kinda like there's no way to measure aroma.

And I'm trying to imagine how easy it would be to control tannin extraction via decoction....

9343
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: New iPhone Brewing App
« on: August 06, 2012, 11:19:01 AM »
DOH!  Steve, I dickchimped it!  I had the display in landscape so I couldn't see the results box.  It works fine and I'm an idiot!

Whew!  ;D

So, now that it's working I went back and entered the parameters for my last mash....13.75 lb., 71F grain temp, 1.6 ratio, and 148 target temp.  BrewBot said strike at 157.2.  Promash told me 161.  161 was what I used when I brewed and it was right on.  I'm guessing it's because Promash takes into account the thermal mass of my cooler.

Lennie, you said that when you used it it was right on for strike temp.  What kind of mash tun do you use?

9344
" exposed to the same levels of diacetyl that factory workers might be exposed to in their jobs."....I'm not worried.

9345
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fauxpils results and discussion
« on: August 06, 2012, 09:21:54 AM »

I'm thinking specifically about IIPA's that are aiming for the 100+ IBU level, where you are close to maxing out on IBU's and you want to cram as much as you can in there. It would be interesting to see how many more IBU's you can squeeze in using a decoction, if any.

I agree for most hoppy beers, it would be a heck of a lot easier to just use a couple extra ounces of your bittering hop (or maybe some Hop Shot) to get the same result. I'm just wondering if we can somehow raise the upper limit on IBU's.

Maybe if I feel adventurous some day I may boil then chill a batch of wort to get the hot break and cold break to fall out, then rack off the trub and re-boil for 90 minutes with like 300+ IBU's worth of Hop Shot just to see what happens.

But I don't think it would actually raise the IBU limit.  Maybe just your perception of IBU.  And what about the increased tannins from the decoction?  Could they be mistaken for additional bitterness?  In order to know you'd have to do 2 identical batches, one decocted and the other not, and then have them analyzed.

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