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Messages - mabrungard

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1
Of course, I just updated the free version of Bru'n Water to include an interface that is more like the supporter's version and it has also had the form controls removed so that the program will work on more platforms. The program has been stripped down to the barest minimum so that new users are less likely to be overwhelmed and will use the program. The free version comes in a single program that includes settings for US and SI units.

Check it out and let me know if you find bugs!

2
Ken, Assuming that the new chiller didn't have some manufacturing residue on it, I'd also consider over-sparging as a contributor to the astringency. I have to stop my runoff at a brix of 3 to 4 in order to avoid tannin extraction when I brew. The common lore for stopping runoff is 2 brix.

I now use less water for sparging and top off my kettle to the proper pre-boil volume with the remaining sparging volume.

3
All Grain Brewing / Re: Suitable Sub for Mild Malt
« on: May 24, 2016, 07:23:27 AM »
When I visited the Paul's Malt booth at the Craft Brewers Conference this month, I didn't see that they actually still make the Mild Malt. Glad to hear that the Briess product is similar.

4
All Grain Brewing / Re: Low Oxygen Brewing
« on: May 23, 2016, 01:02:27 PM »
The Brewtan is to remove metals such as iron and copper. The Meta is to remove oxygen from the water and wort.

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: Berliner Wiesse
« on: May 23, 2016, 12:59:17 PM »
Souring with lacto works better when you sour the sweet wort with lacto first and boil that when its reached your preferred pH target. The boiled wort is bittered to the degree desired and then the yeast is added to the cooled wort for the final fermentation.

6
Equipment and Software / Re: Some RIMS Questions
« on: May 23, 2016, 08:37:40 AM »
+1 on having enough power to step the wort temp. 240v is the way to go. By the way, it doesn't matter what the temperature of the mash is. It is the temperature of the wort after passing through the heating chamber that matters. Getting that wort immediately up to temp is important. The mash mass will eventually get there too as the wave of hot wort passes completely through the tun.

7
Denny, that is not my experience. Slowing the runoff, especially in the later stage of sparging and runoff, do make a substantial difference in my system efficiency. I sort of batch sparge, but its actually a hybrid of continuous and batch. 

8
The wort inlet structure is not a factor for efficiency as long as it covers most of the bottom of the tun. You need to slow your runoff down...especially the final batch sparge.

9
Equipment and Software / Re: Chugger pump cleaning update/advice
« on: May 20, 2016, 12:35:29 PM »
My pump is used only for hot-side wort transfers, so sanitation is of no concern. I've only taken my pump apart every few years and there has never been anything in it.

10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter Water Treatment
« on: May 20, 2016, 06:55:48 AM »
The DME should have virtually all the nutrients needed by the yeast. The only thing to consider would be a bit of yeast nutrient to add zinc. However, recognize that the yeast nutrient dose would be super teeny in a yeast starter.

11
All Grain Brewing / Re: Suitable Sub for Mild Malt
« on: May 19, 2016, 06:43:00 AM »
I am fond of Paul's Mild Malt for Mild brewing. In my opinion, the taste of that malt is a cross between light Munich and a pale malt.

12
Ingredients / Re: Hop storage lifespan ?
« on: May 18, 2016, 06:05:26 AM »
I don't have a vacuum resealer, but I do have a heat resealer. I buy my mainstay hops in 1 lb packs that typically come as vacuum sealed metallized mylar bags. I clip off enough of the bag to get some hops out and reseal with the heat bar. Not perfect, but seems to be adequate.

13
Ingredients / Re: Hop storage lifespan ?
« on: May 17, 2016, 01:42:45 PM »
I agree! When sealed in metallized mylar bags and kept at freezing temps, hops do seem to last a long time. I have hops kept this way that are 4 or 5 years old and they seem to still to produce desirable bittering, flavor, and aroma character in my beers.

14
All Grain Brewing / Re: ESB water profile
« on: May 17, 2016, 01:20:19 PM »
I have had a lot of real ale in England and I don't think they are all using highly mineral-rich water, either.

Not all English waters are highly mineralized. There are areas with Pilsen quality water.  I think some of the reason for the recommendations that Charles pointed out, was that the brewery water treatment firm he cited also sells products that will end up mineralizing the water with high SO4 and Cl. Their AMS product is a mixture of hydrochloric and sulfuric acids and that can result in high SO4 and Cl levels when neutralizing high alkalinity. Their recommendations are probably skewed by that reality.

I appreciate someone piping up with that opinion. When I brought this up on one of the English homebrewing forums I sometimes visit, I was severely lambasted as an unknowing Yank...unfamiliar with their tradition. As Skyler points out, any of us can test out high mineralization at any time. Most of us have found that more modest levels do tend to create better beer.

PS: Try dosing minerals in the glass first. That will help you find your desired mineralization without wasting a batch.

15
My tun has about a 1 foot ID and the sheet of the bubble insulation doesn't seem to have deformed. I've always placed the plastic side down on the wort, so the aluminum side has always been up. That aluminum has come off of many places, but the insulation is otherwise intact.

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