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Messages - mabrungard

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Water additions
« on: October 08, 2015, 12:41:06 PM »
Because we are adding ionic content to the water that increases the osmotic pressure on the plant cells which might help keep those undesirable components from leaching out of the cells.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: New starter procedure trial
« on: October 08, 2015, 06:19:10 AM »
Mark, I don't think a vortex in the starter wort surface is going to create a vacuum that could draw air in from outside the flask. That would require some sort of magic. The vortex could help spin the air column above the wort, but not move air into the vessel. That conservation of mass thing comes into play.

As pointed out, once yeast are actively outgassing CO2, the ability for atmospheric air to enter the vessel and provide O2 is reduced. That is the reason I recommend pumping filtered air into the vessel to assure that there is some O2 in the headspace that can be transferred into the wort.

In my opinion, a vortex is not really needed when the headspace has a constant supply of atmospheric oxygen. I stir my wort only to the degree necessary to keep the cells in suspension. That is more like the shaken technique that Mark recommends.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water additions
« on: October 08, 2015, 06:03:57 AM »
I could be wrong there but I thought gypsum or CaCl would lower pH in a sparge just like it would in a mash.  For a few reasons I don't really need to worry about my batch sparge pH so I've never looked into it to far.  Acid I know for sure will help if you need to neutralize bicarb in your sparge water.

eta:  if I am wrong on salts adjust pH in the sparge I'm wondering why so many brewing water tools suggest putting anything in the sparge beyond acid.

Nope, the salts added to sparging water do little to alter that water's alkalinity or pH. You can read about the reasons in the article "WHY Ca and Mg ARE NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR ACID IN SPARGING WATER" that is on the Bru'n Water page on Facebook. The end message: Acidify your sparging water!

We add salts to the sparging water as a convenient way of maintaining the ionic content of the overall water additions. You can also add those minerals directly to the kettle if you prefer, but I feel that adding some ionic content to the sparging water might help reduce the tendency to extract tannins and silicates from the mash...but that is unproven.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: pH measurements...
« on: October 06, 2015, 07:24:15 AM »
I monitor pH at several points during a mash and can report that pH for some mashes does shift appreciably. Some don't. I had an initial reading at around the 10 minute mark that was something like 0.2 units off. I figured I'd see what it did, so I didn't perform any correction. That pH slowly crept to the predicted pH by the end of the mash. I'm not really sure what was going on there, but something was effecting the buffering in the mash. I know everything was well mixed since I use a RIMS. Its a curiousity!

Beer Recipes / Re: Irish Dry Stout - Final recipe?
« on: October 05, 2015, 12:04:29 PM »
This is actually a style that is well suited to using low alkalinity water and reserving the roast. Figure what to add to the main mash to produce a 5.3 to 5.4 mash pH and then add the roast at the end to drive the kettle wort pH lower. The style relies on the crispness of low pH to help accentuate the roast and contrast it to the raw barley flavor. Don't target a high pH for this style.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: New starter procedure trial
« on: October 05, 2015, 12:00:19 PM »
This just in. On the AHA Forum there was a derailment causing injury to the feelings of several so called "newby brewers". Many of them were rushed to the hospital for hugs and warm milk. One gentleman was heard mumbling "Thats not why I bew IPAs. You dont know me, you dont know me"


All Grain Brewing / Re: C40 + C80 = C60?
« on: October 02, 2015, 06:20:29 PM »

I think that's a lot of why I prefer UK crystal malts overall. Much broader flavor.

Exactly. That is why the Simpson products are presented as a color range. Just looking at the mix, you can easily see the differing levels of kilning. That provides a more interesting range of flavor.

While 40L + 80L will produce a color around 60L, the flavor will be quite different from 60L crystal.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: US-05 at low temp
« on: October 02, 2015, 01:30:31 PM »
I like US-05 in a number of beers. I've used it to finish a Berliner Weisse, cold ferment a Munich Helles wort, and of course for hoppy PAs and IPAs. I think it is an incredibly versatile yeast.

However, I do agree with Mark that there can be 'something' in some strains that you may not like. I'm not a big fan of S-04 and for some reason, I very much dislike the flavor of WY 1007 beers. Its just me. So I can't fault Mark for his dislikes either.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Shaken not stirred lager starter?
« on: October 02, 2015, 01:24:19 PM »
has anyone tested this out with a lager yet?

I sort of have. I just made a Munich Dunkel with WY 2308 and first created a 2L starter that was fuller fermented out and then chilled and decanted.

I use an in-line oxygenation system. I ran off about 4L of oxygenated Dunkel wort into the 6L starter vessel and spun up the stir plate for about 15 minutes. That wort was probably around 70F. I can attest that I had one angry and ready to go army of yeast in about an hour or two.  The subsequent fermentation was very active at 50F.

Equipment and Software / Re: Digital Thermometer
« on: October 01, 2015, 05:44:37 AM »
While I will agree that my Thermpen was a money burning a hole in my pocket purchase, I love the thing.  I have found all kinds of uses for it.  I do not know if the other Thermoworks products do, but the Thermopens come with a certificate of calibration.

Excellent point. Most thermometers work, but are they actually accurate? Having that certification helps a lot. I don't know that an electronic thermometer can or will shift its calibration, but I suppose its possible. Mechanical thermometers such as dial thermometers are certainly subject to falling out of calibration. Having a certified mercury lab thermometer that serves as a calibration check is still a good idea for checking your 'working' thermometers. I employ that approach.

By the way, my RT600c and RT301WA thermometers both indicated within 0.5F of the calibration standard when they were new. I'm pretty sure that Thermowork's QA is fairly good. 

Equipment and Software / Re: Digital Thermometer
« on: September 30, 2015, 01:12:42 PM »
Thermapen is nice, but not worth the cost. That manufacturer's other products are much better values with not much lost in speed or accuracy. I own several of their other thermometers.

Beer Recipes / Re: Schwarzbier
« on: September 28, 2015, 10:01:52 AM »
That is one of the styles that can benefit from the late mash addition of roast.

Unless your club is generating significant income, there is no need to go through the time and expense of getting registered as a non-profit entity.

With respect to incorporating, yes you need to. Otherwise all of your club members are equally liable for any loss the club is cited for. Incorporation protects the majority of members, but places a bit more responsibility on club officers. Having insurance is an important need and AHA now has an option for clubs.

Equipment and Software / Re: K-RIMS / Breweasy
« on: September 23, 2015, 05:55:35 AM »
I just use 2 regular SSRs to control both legs of my 240v heating circuits. The control wiring is just piggybacked  to both SSRs for control. Using a breaker is too manual for me.

By the way, I use the big 30a and 50a dryer plugs and receptacles on each of my heating circuits and on the connection between the spa panel and the brewery control panel so that I can always have a true disconnection to meet my lock-out, tag-out mentality. I find there is no need for the more expensive twist-lock plugs and receptacles since the dryer plugs are pretty hard to separate as they are. If you can easily pull one of those plugs out, you are more of a man than I am.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: PBW Alternative?
« on: September 23, 2015, 05:46:55 AM »
A chelating agent is only necessary if you are using hard water to create your solution. If you use softened water or RO water, the benefit of the chelating agent is moot.  Maybe this is why some Oxiclean users report no problems.

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