Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - mabrungard

Pages: 1 ... 71 72 [73] 74 75 ... 130
1081
Equipment and Software / Re: Therminator
« on: June 06, 2013, 05:45:01 AM »
Be sure to set up a connection so that you can back-flush the chiller at high rate after each use.

1082
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pils - hop and malt questions
« on: June 03, 2013, 02:39:38 PM »
FYI

Jever, Germany water profile:

Ca: 60   
Mg: 5   
Na: 15   
SO4: 75   
Cl: 30   
HCO3: 105

The alkalinity would have to be neutralized for use in a G Pils, but the sodium, chloride, and sulfate levels give you an idea of an appropriate balance and intensity for those ions.

1083
Other Fermentables / Re: Copper does remove sulfur!
« on: June 02, 2013, 07:08:11 PM »
For sure, if you're going to have copper contact, it needs to be with the wort...pre-fermentation.  The wort is less acidic than beer and the yeast will subsequently bind the yeast.  No copper contact with beer!

1084
Ingredients / Re: Dry hop help
« on: June 02, 2013, 11:05:04 AM »
The guy in our club making the best IPA's says he dry hops with four ounces per gallon.

That seems like a ridiculous amount of dry hopping.  I've been very pleased with around 2 oz in 5 gallons.  I couldn't imagine the mass of hop matter that would suck up much of my beer when 20 oz of dry hops were added to 5 gallons of beer.  My experience says that this is not workable or desirable.

1085
Homebrew Competitions / Re: Judging at 2nd round NHC
« on: May 31, 2013, 04:39:43 PM »
The only confirmation I have is the note that pops up on the website telling you that you have completed the judging registration.  I'm sure they will be formulating the judge assignments in the next few weeks.  I expect that we will hear something a week or so beforehand.

1086
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Who's going to NHC?
« on: May 31, 2013, 04:36:29 PM »
No. 6 for me.  Be sure to pace yourself.  Don't be a kid in the candy store like I almost was when I attended in Chicago. 

Of course you will need to restrain yourself on Friday night and make it to my presentation on 'Historic Water' at 9 am on Saturday.  Remember...pacing.

1087
I observed a color change in a beer I racked onto darker beer yeast cake.  It can happen.

1088
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My Water Report
« on: May 21, 2013, 07:49:16 AM »
The ionic content is probably close enough that one could consider it pilsen like.  The bicarbonate would have to be neutralized, but the rest of the ion content is quite low.  That is not to say that a brewer should brew with it as-is. 

Do recognize that chloride is not the same as chlorine.  A well water would probably not have chlorine in it, but could easily have chloride.  I'm surprised not to see any chloride in this report, but its possible.  And since there is no chloride, the sulfate/chloride ratio is meaningless in this case.  Until the water has significant concentrations of both ions, their effect on flavor is negligible.  I recommend that the sulfate/chloride ratio is most applicable when the chloride concentration falls between 25 and 100 ppm. 

1089
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My Water Report
« on: May 19, 2013, 08:50:36 AM »
Its not the ratio, its the difference in the cation and anion totals.  You are good to go.  That is a lightly mineralized water and it doesn't take much to throw the difference off. 

1090
Equipment and Software / Re: Those little red cans of Oxygen
« on: May 17, 2013, 08:12:00 PM »
I have read some dissolved oxygen info. Haven't bought into the idea for homebrew level yet. One side by side study I saw had three one gallon bottles of identical wort and yeast. One was not aerated at all, one was shook for two minutes, one was oxygenated for two minutes. All three made beer. The non aeration was slow and obviously under attenuated. The shook one started faster than the O2 one but the shook and O2 samples finished about the same.

I don't shake, I pour back and forth between buckets until the froth reaches the brim. Takes about three pours, less than a minute. There may be some science that proves O2 is better, but my low tech method works plenty good for me. Plus one less expense and piece of equipment to clean.

Unfortunately, you are playing with fire.  Everyone of those pours is introducing more airborne microbes into your wort.  If you don't have a big enough yeast pitch, you will be severely infected.  As it is, you are probably slightly infecting your beer.  Oxygenation is more sterile and therefore safer.

1091
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: New Belgium Rolle Bolle
« on: May 16, 2013, 02:36:11 PM »
I had a glass at a local pub a few weeks ago.  I didn't know it was fruited, but it is a pleasant drinking, light beer.  Its not very memorable, but I'd have another.

1092
Equipment and Software / Re: Those little red cans of Oxygen
« on: May 16, 2013, 02:32:47 PM »
I easily get 15 to 20 batches per bottle, but I use an in-line aerator setup and infuse the wort slowly.  I also make a 1.5 L starter for ales and 3 L starter for lagers, so my need for oxygenation may be slightly less urgent than those who underpitch.  I typically see activity within 4 hours.

1093
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: not all RO water created equally
« on: May 15, 2013, 04:25:52 PM »
I realized that the default alkalinity and water profile loaded in brunwater may not match what my RO water profile really is (i have sent off a sample to confirm my hypotheses), and was therefore ending up more acidic than i wanted in my mash.

Yep! The RO profile in Bru'n Water represents the result when sodium-laden, high alkalinity water of my city's water system is run through the system.  Therefore, the ending sodium and bicarbonate content may be a little higher than another system might produce with another water.  This result is not surprising. 

I am surprised that 16 ppm bicarbonate that is represented by the stock RO profile altered your observed pH results that much, but I suppose its possible. 

By all means, do replace the various ion concentrations from your testing results in the water table that is at the bottom of the Water Adjustment page.  All of those ion concentrations in that big table that are in those blue colored cells are changeable.  If you don't like the amount of sodium or whatever ion in any of those profiles...change them based on your experience.   That way you aren't limited to those stock profiles.  The profiles were left changeable so that your preferences could easily be implemented.  Just remember, if you change an anion, you will have to adjust one of the cations in the same direction to get that adjusted profile to balance.  Don't create a new profile that doesn't balance.  The water table reports the anion and cation totals so that you can see when the profile is rebalanced.

Enjoy!

1094
All Grain Brewing / Re: Iron in Water
« on: May 14, 2013, 08:04:29 AM »
Apparently, Miller's book has mis-quoted the iron value.  The limit of 0.3 ppm is an aesthetic standard that EPA has established as a Secondary Standard.  Those secondary standards are not enforcable by law, but serve as goals for water quality.  In the case of iron, the typical water drinker can start to taste the iron (blood-like) flavor and there is the potential for the iron to cause staining on plumbing fixtures. 

The water in this case may not have enough iron to be percieved in practice.  If it still tastes good to you and your drinkers, then its OK.  Just recognize that it might be a problem at the reported level.

1095
There is no worry with ANY* organisms on equipment that is small enough to be boiled.  Hoses, taps, fittings, etc that can fit in a boil pot will be free of any contaminants after boiling.  The problem comes with larger vessels that can't be boiled.  Then you have to rely (hope) that a sanitizer can do its job. 

*  OK thermophylic organisms might not be eradicated through boiling, but they are not typically a problem in the brewery.

Pages: 1 ... 71 72 [73] 74 75 ... 130