Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - mabrungard

Pages: 1 ... 71 72 [73] 74 75 ... 151
1081
All Grain Brewing / Re: mash temp for porter
« on: September 23, 2014, 07:27:16 PM »
Am I correct in saying that it should have no effect on mash performance though?

You are correct.

1082
All Grain Brewing / Re: mash temp for porter
« on: September 23, 2014, 05:28:20 PM »
I've never heard that chlorine has any effect in the mash. the concern with chlorine is phenols in the finished beer as the yeast metabolize the chlorine/chloramine into chlorophenols.

No, chlorophenol production is a reaction not a metabolite. There are plenty of phenols in wort and beer that can easily be reacted into chlorophenols if there is a reactive form of chlorine present. An important aspect of this contaminant is that its flavor threshold is really low...just a few ppb. At that level, the phenol precursors needed to conduct the reaction are well below their flavor threshold and we don't notice them in the wort or beer. Since chlorinated water often has somewhere in the 1 to 3 ppm level, a similar level of chlorophenol can be created and that is hundreds or thousands of times higher than needed to detect in flavor.

The chlorophenol reaction can take place in the tun, the kettle, fermenter, or even in the glass. Anytime that reactive chlorine is added to beer or wort, the chlorophenol reaction will instantly take place.

PS: the chloride ion is a non-reactive form of chlorine and does not produce chlorophenol. 

1083
Ingredients / Re: higher alpha subs for noble hops
« on: September 17, 2014, 10:10:08 PM »
Good thing I grow my own NB!

1084
All Grain Brewing / Re: mash temp for porter
« on: September 17, 2014, 09:16:33 PM »
I went through the phase where I wanted lower attenuation and I finally came to the conclusion that it was not the way to great beer. If I want a sweeter beer, I reduce the bittering. If I want fuller body, I include unmalted wheat, rye, or barley (typically flaked). Chasing low attenuation just doesn't seem to be a good method.

In addition, I know that most commercial brewers pursue higher attenuation and they alter those other aspects of the recipe (like I mention above) to achieve the flavor and balance they want. In addition, this method is a win-win for the brewer since it improves drinkability while producing similar flavor and reduces the amount of grain and hops in the recipe.

(I forgot to add changing the yeast strain to the list of variables for balance) ;-)

1085
Ingredients / Re: Is Wet Hopping BS?
« on: September 17, 2014, 09:02:48 PM »
As I was typing that mention of freezing wet hops, I wondered about the potential for hydrated plant cells to rupture and spill their green guts into the beer. So maybe my postulation that freezing wet hops is OK is probably wrong. I still have to wonder about the desirability of wet-hopping though. Thanks, kramerog!

1086
Ingredients / Is Wet Hopping BS?
« on: September 17, 2014, 07:40:49 PM »
Tis the season to endure another round of wet-hopped beers. My experience with commercial wet-hopped beers is that they are rarely as well-mannered and flavorful as beers made with dried hops. This seems to be a fad that doesn't have much basis other than the green hops are available, so let's make a beer with them!.

When I think about it, if green hops were better for brewing, we would be using them year-round. With freezing technology, there is no problem in storing wet hops. My impression is that most of the wet-hopped beers tend to have a green, chlorophyl flavor accompanying the hop flavors. I don't find that pleasing. I think there is an advantage to drying hops and using them fresh in that form.

What do others think of wet-hopping? Or am I just full of BS?

1087
Equipment and Software / Re: Dip stick for measuring kettle volume
« on: September 13, 2014, 02:39:39 PM »
Either way is fine. Since you are working on the hot side of the brewing process, sanitation is not a concern. So the wood dowel is fine. I use a long handled, nylon spoon with marks whittled into the plastic. One concern with the SST dip stick is that is will get hot. But that shouldn't be a big deal.

If you brew on an un-level surface, placing the dip stick in the center of the kettle will always produce an accurate volume measurement. However, if you had a sight glass on the side of the kettle, then you had better make sure the kettle is level or your volume measurement will be off.

Only bad thing about dip sticks is that the steam and heat off the wort does make you work VERY quickly!

1088
Beer Recipes / Re: Skeleton Helles
« on: September 12, 2014, 08:52:37 PM »
I take it that is the tap water profile in that listing? If so, the alkalinity of that water is going to need neutralization with acid or acid malt. You will almost certainly get some tannins out of the grain bill if you don't neutralize.

In addition, the levels of Na, Cl, and SO4 are kind of high and that might place a bit of minerallyness on the flavor. I don't think it would be horrible, just not ideal. Cutting with distilled or RO water could help.

1089
All Grain Brewing / Re: Cascadian Dark Ale Questions (pH & grist)
« on: September 02, 2014, 08:04:59 PM »
My experience with this style is that it's focused on adding color and not adding roast flavor. That should be well suited to adding the roast at the end of the mash. If the "roastless" mash is adjusted to produce a relatively normal pH of around 5.4, adding that touch of roast at the end should limit the color and flavor extraction and give your hop-focused BIPA a better chance to balance. That late roast addition should drop the wort pH a bit, but probably not too much. If you do find that the kettle wort pH is getting too low, then it is OK to boost the pH with a kettle addition of baking soda or lime. If you are using the supporter's version of Bru'n Water, you can quickly assess what the pH does with and without the roast addition and also have the ability to predict what that kettle addition of baking soda or lime should be. You can figure it out with the free version too. It's just a bit more of a PITA.

1090
Yes as you already found, post fermentation pH adjustment is fine. It is primarily affecting taste.

The same thing can be performed in any beer...either raising or lowering the beer pH to meet taste expectations.

1091
Those that read the article on London water a few months ago, saw that the water in central London had a somewhat high sodium content through some its history. The porter breweries were reputed to make the most tasty beers for the style, even when compared to other porters from around the world. Having brewed that brown porter recipe that I created for the article and having brewed it with the 'London Porter' water profile, I can attest that the 110 ppm sodium content is not detrimental to the beer. If anything, I would say that you would want at least 50 ppm sodium in a porter to help round the flavor. For that reason, using baking soda is well suited to dark beer brewing.

Another consideration is that since you only add baking soda to the mashing water, the high sodium content that might be shown from the baking soda addition will be diluted when you add the sparging water. In the free version of Bru'n Water, you would have to perform that calculation by yourself. But in the supporter's version, the diluted ion concentrations that are produced in the kettle are shown automatically.

1092
Commercial Beer Reviews / Sun King Fistful of Hops
« on: August 27, 2014, 12:27:07 AM »
Well, I'm going to have to say that there may be two masterful breweries in Indiana now...3Floyds and Sun King. Sun King's Fistful of Hops IPA is a wonderfully flavorful hop bomb that still provides a drinkable balance. The current version includes a notable orange flavor to the hopping when the beer warms. Well worth searching for if you are in Indiana. I'm not sure that it's available out of state.

My hat is off to the brewery.

1093
I'm going to be making an Imperial Stout soon, and I've been doing a 2 step mash, as per Gordon Strong's suggestion, just the base malts for most of the time (~40 min.), and then add the dark malts for the last 15 min. or so.  I'm convinced this helps the dark malt flavors, thanks, Gordon.


Gordon's method (it's actually Guinness' method) is ONLY suited when brewing with very low alkalinity water like distilled or RO water. Under that condition, if the dark malts were added to the main mash, the mash pH would be too low and there would be issues with both the acidity of the wort and the conversion of starch. When you use the Guinness method, you avoid problems with starch conversion...but you still end up with a potentially too acidic wort. Extra acidity is OK in dry stouts, but it's not OK in other stout and porter styles. Interestingly, one of the World Beer Cup gold medal winning beers was brewed in an Ohio city a few hours from Gordon's home. That brewer is blessed?? with typical hard and alkaline Midwestern water that happens to make fantastic dark beers.  They could not have done it with the Guinness method.

I get a chuckle out of brewers that state that this method reduces the edge of their roast malt flavors. The real reason that the roast flavors are reduced is that the overly low pH reduces the extraction of color and flavor from those dark grains. I suggest that those of you that want to reduce the roasty flavor in your dark beers might try reducing the quantity of those roasted grains in the recipe...it's cheaper that way.

As you can tell by now, I'm not impressed by this method. Brewers do make better dark beers when they understand and manipulate the alkalinity of their mashing water. I find that there are only a few beer styles that actually benefit from this technique. Irish dry stout and Schwartzbier are examples.

In the case of an Imperial Stout, using mashing water with the proper alkalinity level is more likely to produce pleasant and full roast flavors instead of the dry and potentially acrid roast flavors that accompany overly low wort pH.

Enjoy!

1094
Hop Growing / Re: 2014 Harvest
« on: August 24, 2014, 05:13:20 PM »
I now pound my dried hops into plugs before sealing and freezing. It certainly reduces the bulk and I'm guessing that the action of a 1" wood dowel driven by a 3 lb sledge probably helps rupture some lupulin glands.

1095
Ingredients / Re: brown malt for porter
« on: August 21, 2014, 01:09:03 PM »
Beware that Crisp brown malt includes a bit of smoke in it. I used almost 9% in a brown porter and the smoke was too apparent for a few months.
That is interesting. I wonder how it would be in a recipe for a historic porter.

Did you go to the talk that John Mallett and Andrea Stanley presented at the NHC? They served a historic porter made with malt that was dried over a hornbeam fire. A little smokey, but I really liked it.

Yep! I was in there and it was an excellent presentation. The beer made with Andrea's malt was similar in smokiness with my porter.

Pages: 1 ... 71 72 [73] 74 75 ... 151