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Messages - mabrungard

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16
Also, based on my years in the music biz, fair use is about YOU using something, not sharing it.  In effect, you can make copies for yourself but not others.

To serve as a backup to a point being made in a post, I would have to say that a limited excerpt (which can be a photo), can be used under fair use law. I do say that the number of excerpts might have been over the limit in this thread. Thanks for removing them, but do use them in the future...in the right setting.

17
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: RO Water
« on: January 01, 2017, 03:36:16 PM »
Brun water Question.
 are the Target finished water adjustment, and Actual finish adjustment, and Mash water profile and overall finished water profile under the Water Adjustment need to be all green?  Or is it just the overall finished water profile that  needs to be green?

Nothing needs to be green, but the signal can help highlight differences that you may want to look into.

18
Equipment and Software / Re: Using a heater
« on: December 29, 2016, 02:43:01 PM »
Since my chamber temperature is thermostatically controlled, I just put a heating pad in the chamber when its not warm enough.

19
All Grain Brewing / Re: Question on handling water treatment chemicals
« on: December 27, 2016, 10:24:49 AM »
No problem with adding them early. Just be sure to stir them in the water or they may not be fully dissolved.

20
Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Golden Strong
« on: December 27, 2016, 10:22:56 AM »
What temperature do you step up to?

I only do steps for a few styles. Of course I do a Ferullic rest for hefes. But I often do a hochkurz for German styles. For hochkurz, I'm in the mid 140's and step to the mid 150's. I also do a mashout step to 168.

For other styles, I'm usually at a single temp (plus mashout).

21
Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Golden Strong
« on: December 26, 2016, 12:37:32 PM »
Not sure why you are disagreeing with me, I didn't write the literature I just quoted it.

Brian, I wasn't pointing the finger at you. It is squarely at the literature that can lead to others misapplying that information without understanding why the recommendation is what it is.  You're good!

22
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Advice for Imperial Stout
« on: December 26, 2016, 12:06:28 PM »
I have not tested that. But I can tell you that you are better off mashing somewhere near 5.4, than 5.2.

23
Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Golden Strong
« on: December 26, 2016, 11:27:41 AM »
Literature says it can harm the enzymes is you step too fast. Because of this the standard is 1c/min raise.

No. I'm going to have to call BS on this one. I can only assume that the references recommend a 1C/min rate to avoid local overheating of the wort. If you have a bottom-fired or jacketed mash tun, then I'll agree that the rate is appropriate. If you run HERMS or RIMS, then the wort can go directly to the targeted step temperature with no detriment. Of course, this assumes that your HERMS or RIMS has proper process controls to avoid overheating the wort. The temperature sensor controlling the heating system must be immediately downstream of the heat source.

My 4500w RIMS wort circuit can step my wort directly to next temperature and I've never observed a problem with conversion or attenuation. However, I can point out that I DID have attenuation problems in my previous RIMS when I didn't have proper PID-control on the wort heating circuit. Created several 'worty' beers during that time. Overheating your wort will create the problems that the 1C/min recommendation is trying to help you avoid.

If you have the right equipment, the rate doesn't matter. Hit your target wort temperature and let the rest of the mash rise as the pulse of hot wort makes its way through the grist.

24
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Advice for Imperial Stout
« on: December 26, 2016, 10:10:57 AM »
That sodium level is fine. It could be higher without detriment in this beer, but I wouldn't necessarily go higher.

The sulfate level is fine. Going higher is also acceptable, if you want the beer finish to dry out better. That can be a good thing in a big beer like this. In fact, Burton on Trent was once known for its big beers like the original Imperial Stouts and Burton Ales. High sulfate does not make beers bitter. It makes them finish drier.

I do have concern with the chloride level since high chloride content with high sulfate content is the recipe for minerally beer flavor. If that is your goal, then the chloride content is fine. Lower chloride content would be my preference, but its not a requirement.

Do be sure to include enough bicarbonate in the mashing water to keep the mash pH above 5.4. Many brewers find that a mash pH in the 5.5 to 5.6 range helps smooth out the roast flavors.

25
Equipment and Software / Re: Inline Aeration Setup Questions/Concerns
« on: December 19, 2016, 07:49:54 PM »
I converted my Liquid Bread hose-mounted stone into an in-line unit (which cost about $5) and have been using it for about 7 years. I don't know that it improved anything, but I don't tend to overdose with oxygen. I probably get 15 to 20 batches with the regular red oxygen cylinder. Since there is about 20 ft of hose after the in-line unit, I'm pretty sure I achieve decent incorporation of the oxygen that I do add. I find its nice to be able to see the oxygen inflow and be able to avoid oversaturating the wort. I do believe that overdosing with O2 can lead to fusel production and that guides my desire to avoid overdosing.

Is in-line oxygenation better? Hmm, I don't know. But I do know that I can avoid opening the fermenter by completing this step as I'm chilling and transferring the wort.

By the way, my in-line unit is small enough to fit in a small pot so that I can boil the whole thing occassionally. Most of the time, I sanitize the unit along with the plate chiller by pumping Starsan or Iodophor through them, along with the wort tubing. I know I don't get infections, so that seems to work.

26
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Newbie here. Water question.
« on: December 18, 2016, 06:17:26 AM »
I had to figure out the pH angle to make some beers come out great....nailing down a specific water profile isn't necessary.

At the beginning level, that is what we need to get across. Improper wort pH will confound anyone, but its the element that everyone...including beginners have to address to have a decent chance at creating beers that they can admire. In most cases, tap water has too much alkalinity and your wort and beer pH will be higher than desirable. Dull, flabby, and even icky beer is often the result.

The mineral profile is much less a concern...unless the water crunches when you drink it.

If you are lucky enough to have a water source that is nearly mineral free, you have a decent chance of success. A lack of minerals is unlikely to ruin a beer. But we all need to pay attention to pH. All brewing requires acid in some form.

27
The Pub / Re: ever changing palate
« on: December 16, 2016, 10:57:15 AM »
I've found that my beer's taste (or my perception of it!) changes over time. I've perceived increases and decreases in the matter of a day. I can only assume that it has something to do with my condition and setting, since I don't think the beer itself changes that drastically.

28
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: D bomb
« on: December 13, 2016, 06:47:52 AM »
PBW is a cleaner, not a sanitizer.

29
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: D bomb
« on: December 12, 2016, 03:41:53 PM »
StarSan does not kill everything. I recommend that you employ another sanitizer on occassion. I now use Iodophor as my primary sanitizer and StarSan as my secondary.

30
All Grain Brewing / Re: LODO Impact on Roast Flavor
« on: December 10, 2016, 10:14:24 AM »
So if roast flavors are more intense in a LODO beer, which approach is going to be better for moderating them?

1. Reducing the quantities of your standard roast grains, or
2. Using roast grains that have lower color rating?

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