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Messages - mabrungard

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Beer Recipes / Re: Looking for a good Dry Stout recipe
« on: January 28, 2017, 03:20:44 PM »
Wow! Thanks for the compliments. While the grist that I use is pretty typical, its really the water and technique that makes the Dry Stout difference. Regular mash at about 5.4 in RO or distilled water followed with the roast barley addition at the end of the mash. That drives down the wort pH and that is the signature of the style. The flavors of Roast Barley meld with the grainy flavor of raw barley and are offset by the acidity of the low beer pH.

I haven't tried Golden Promise in this recipe, but I do like that malt. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Ph issue/meter advice
« on: January 28, 2017, 11:10:42 AM »
What is your recommended meter for basic home brew use? What's the life of a probe on something like the 101 if it's taken care of.

Let's see, I've had my MW-101 for about 5 years and the original probe is still calibrating and performing well. I do store the probe submerged in KCl storage solution and I never put it in hot liquids. I can recommend this meter. I do like the fact that it is an analog meter and it is not subject to the whims of the software or hardware of a digital version. But its probably not quite as precise. That probably means that the reading could be a hundredth or two off. I'm not concerned with being that precise in brewing. 

What's interesting about the probe on the MW-101 and 102 is that it is a double-junction probe that is therefore a little less prone to fouling. In addition, it uses a gel electrolyte that seems to be fairly stable in my occasional hobbyist usage. When it finally fails, it looks like it will be about $40 shipped to have another.

You can read more about my thoughts on pH meters on the Bru'n Water Facebook page. You'll have to scroll back a ways since there are a lot of articles on there.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Technique Help - Dark Grains at Vorlauf
« on: January 28, 2017, 10:56:03 AM »
Having said that I've used the late-addition technique but I've been persuaded by this forum to not do so and instead control mash pH.

While I agree that getting the pH in the correct range for the beer being brewed, the technique of holding the roast until the end of the mash does have its place. It's a great technique for styles where you want more color and less of the roast's flavor. It's perfect for Schwartzbier and Dunkel. It might be OK in a Mild if your goal is to avoid an overly roasty beer.

In beers that you do want to be roasty, you will probably need to boost the roast percentage beyond a typically brewed recipe since the roast notes will be lessened.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Ph issue/meter advice
« on: January 28, 2017, 10:45:18 AM »
I'm looking to replace my MW101.

The meter should be fine. Its the probe that has to be occasionally replaced. Its a fact of pH meter ownership.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Boil temps - do they matter?
« on: January 27, 2017, 12:39:03 PM »
I thought this would be about the variation in temps with altitude. Hey, I am at -198 ft elevation right now. Those Colorado breweries boil at a lower temperature.

Boil vigor is more appropriate, no?

There are low vacuum brewing systems available to the big boys.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Boil temps - do they matter?
« on: January 26, 2017, 12:49:01 PM »
After spending a few minutes reviewing what TBI and TBA are, it is very apparent that this is a well known effect in the big boy breweries. Extended or intense boiling can actually "pre-damage" the wort and make the resulting beer age quicker.

At the homebrew level where we probably keep our beer cooler and consume it sooner, this issue may be moot. But to provide your beers with longer shelf life, you do need to consider this. I will definitely be reviewing my practices and be making some changes.

Thanks for bringing this up, gentleman.

Equipment and Software / Re: Cheapo pH Meter Experience
« on: January 11, 2017, 12:26:21 PM »
Interesting unit. Too bad it doesn't report to the hundredth. That is helpful when checking wort samples.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: RO Water
« on: January 10, 2017, 07:39:53 AM »
My city tap water does not have any chlorine or chloramines.

That's curious. The only water system that I knew of that didn't add a disinfectant was New York City. They have since started disinfecting. Are you sure? It is the law per the Clean Water Act.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Glass Disaster
« on: January 09, 2017, 07:52:15 AM »
I like seeing another inexpensive SST bucket option that was mentioned above. The Chapman unit looks adequate and serviceable. All they need to add is a rotating racking tube so that you can reduce the trub carryover. I have a Blichmann conical and its great, but this sort of option brings stainless to more brewers. Hopefully we can avoid more glass incidents with the availability of these options.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Introduction to Low Oxygen Brewing
« on: January 08, 2017, 05:22:47 PM »
I'm not about to say that pumping produces better results, it is just more practical.

All Things Food / Re: why can't you people simply say...
« on: January 08, 2017, 12:02:33 PM »
While I still use English units for my typical civil engineering work, I do pull out the SI units when things get hairy with slugs and other arcane units. Please forgive the unit war.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Introduction to Low Oxygen Brewing
« on: January 08, 2017, 11:59:11 AM »
Is it correct to assume that using a wort return tube requires a pump?

That is correct. In my opinion, pumping wort is a preferable method of 'mixing' your mash...move the wort and not the grain.

IPAs are the autotuned pop music of the brewing world.  Flashy.  Popular.  Uninspired and requiring very little talent to produce.

A big dose of hops can cover a multitude of sins. I still enjoy a balanced symphony of hop flavor. My brewing opinion is that any hop that has the potential for catty, garlic, not a good hop and should be eradicated from the hop fields.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Introduction to Low Oxygen Brewing
« on: January 08, 2017, 10:00:39 AM »
Stays put. No floating.

I guess that approach seals off the mashing zone from the atmosphere, but there is a slug of oxygen under that lid that adds to the oxidation load. But that is why there is an excess of meta in the wort. But using that assumption, it appears that just using a well-fitting lid on the tun serves the same purpose. I've gone to a bit more trouble with the floating cap, but I'm not sure that its truly necessary. A wort return tube and a sheet of plastic bubble wrap might be just as good.

Ingredients / Re: Bru'n Water calculations for a rye IPA
« on: January 07, 2017, 08:54:52 AM »
Looks fine. Somewhere between 5.3 and 5.4 should be good. While I prefer the high sulfate of the pale ale profile, its safer to start low and see where your preference lays. The good thing with gypsum, is that you can still dose your beer after fermentation.

I suggest you figure out how much gypsum it would take to bring the sulfate content of a glass of your finished beer from your 150 ppm target to the 300 ppm range. Its going to be a teeny amount. Then add to a glass of beer and mix in. It should dissolve in a minute or so. Taste the stock and gypsumed beers and see which you prefer. Do be careful to keep the carbonation and temperature similar for both samples. The higher gypsum dose should make the beer finish drier. That may be a desirable or undesirable effect, depending on the style, the bittering level, and your tastes. Adding post-fermentation gypsum is especially useful when you've created a beer that seems too full or sweet.

You don't have to accept where the beer finished up, if its too full or sweet.

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