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Messages - mabrungard

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n Water pH off
« on: January 27, 2018, 02:47:32 PM »
That is nice low TDS, so the bicarbonate content should be very low. Almost distilled level.

Macros aren't involved with pH calculation. Macros are only used on the Supporter's version to save and recall data files.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How to calculate Kettle volume
« on: January 27, 2018, 02:44:57 PM »
A wide open kettle isn't that hard to calculate the heights for various volumes, but for those of you with extra stuff in the kettle like a chilling loop, then the only manageable way is to find a suitable small container (gallon jug) and calibrate that container to verify that filling the container to a certain level gives you the volume of liquid that you expect. (a gallon of water weighs 3785 grams)

Then you start adding containers of water, one by one to enable you to mark or measure what the depth is for that volume.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n Water pH off
« on: January 27, 2018, 02:37:00 PM »
I'm assuming that you're using distilled water so that isn't a factor. Varying water quality from RO or tap water could have that effect.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: lid off or on?
« on: January 26, 2018, 09:36:55 PM »
Pils worts should be mashed at 5.4 pH and boiled at 5.4 for most of the duration. If the brewer wants the boiled wort to be at a lower pH, it is OK to add the additional lactic acid at the end of the boil. As Bryan mentioned, SMM conversion to DMS proceeds at a higher rate when the pH is elevated a bit.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: lid off or on?
« on: January 26, 2018, 07:50:36 PM »
I note that Kunze in his textbook now states that virtually all German breweries now limit their boil to 60 min. 90min boils are rare and are damaging.

When you are at an elevation of less than 1000 ft, you can generally count on almost all SMM to be converted to DMS in about a half hour. That leaves almost a half hour to expel that DMS with a modestly rolling boil. The first 30 minutes of the boil can be considered the SMM to DMS conversion stage and can be conducted with the kettle fully covered and at barely a boil.

If you have little or no pils malt in your grist, there is not much SMM in your wort. You might be able to shorten up the boil then. Short boils are possible if your grist was composed of slightly darker base malt (say 4L or higher), but remember that 60 min is a good compromise since that's where hop isomerization rate flattens out. But if reducing heat stress and color pickup in your wort is important, then it is possible to reduce boil times a bit in some cases.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash pH DIPA
« on: January 26, 2018, 07:34:04 PM »
Most people won't taste 88% lactic in water at dosage of 1 ml/gal or less. That's a pretty healthy dose.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: lid off or on?
« on: January 26, 2018, 01:14:05 PM »
During the early and mid stages of the boil, your kettle can be totally covered and you can turn down the heat to the point that the wort is only modestly circulating. However, you do need to uncover the kettle at least partially in the late stage of the boil to vent DMS. You must turn up the heat when you uncover since more heat is lost through evaporation. In addition, it is important that the wort has good circulation in the kettle to give the DMS the opportunity to escape at the wort surface.

Of course, if you are used to boiling off a gallon or two during a boil for a 5-gal batch, you'll need to refigure your starting kettle volume to account for the smaller evaporation loss. We homebrewers boil FAR too hard and long. That actually damages the wort and creates beer that stales earlier. Getting your total evaporation loss to around 8% is a good goal. Pro's target that evaporation percentage or less.   

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: American IPA Subcategories
« on: January 23, 2018, 09:15:23 PM »
Don't forget that the IPA subcategories are relatively new to brewing lore. I think they've been existence 4 or 5 years. I don't find that there is really a need for all those subcategories, but there are unique beers that need a place to go. For example, my American brown ale is fashioned after Pete's Wicked Ale and it doesn't fit the Am Brown BJCP category. It now lines up as a brown IPA.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NaCl?
« on: January 23, 2018, 09:11:38 PM »
107Ca 10Mg 73Na 101Cl 217SO4

I don't know what your goals are for this brew, but I'm leery of having that much sodium along with the elevated chloride and sulfate levels. If this is for an IPA, I would decrease both Na and Cl by about half.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NaCl?
« on: January 23, 2018, 07:04:37 PM »
While sodium isn't the big, bad boogey man that some make it out to be, I wouldn't purposely bump sodium content up too much for most brews. As I've mentioned in the past, sodium can have beneficial flavor effects in beer...just don't overdo it.

The World Health Organization has established an aesthetic limit for sodium in drinking water as 250 ppm. That is generally the point at which most people can taste 'salty' flavor. As shown in the Brulosophy trials, 100 ppm sodium doesn't taste salty at all in beer.

While you can try elevated sodium in your beers, I caution against levels greater than about 70 ppm. I get minerally perceptions above that level. Not bad, just different. This is especially true when the sulfate level in the water is greater than 100 ppm. Sodium and sulfate at high levels do not play well on your palate.


All Grain Brewing / Re: tangerines
« on: January 22, 2018, 09:56:32 PM »
I have heard that fermented orange juice (tangerines also, perhaps) taste a lot like vomit.

No. I've used orange juice in a beer before. It was initially odd, but aged into a decent beer.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 Purity and Why It's So Important
« on: January 22, 2018, 01:51:03 AM »
While this thread reinforced it, I know that I need to pay attention to the CO2 that I use in my brewing. Before a year or so ago, I would have said that CO2 was CO2.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 Purity and Why It's So Important
« on: January 21, 2018, 08:16:17 PM »
The cold side effects of oxygen aren't up for debate. They are proven. What is debatable is the net effect. Bottle conditioning and spunding offer the opportunity to reduce packaged oxygen to the lowest possible level. Using the lowest oxygen content CO2 for forced carbonation is the next best thing. Time and temperature directly affect the oxygen uptake and staling process, so beer kept cold and consumed quickly will always suffer the least.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Profile Red IPA
« on: January 20, 2018, 07:49:10 PM »
Given that the BJCP guidelines call for a dry to medium dry finish, the Pale Ale profile in Bru’n Water may be suited. If you haven’t used that profile previously, you might consider backing the sulfate down to about 200 ppm.

Club Leadership & Organization / Re: Physical Address for incorporation
« on: January 20, 2018, 07:42:13 PM »
The easiest thing to do is to hire a company that will act as the registered agent for the club. They will provide a physical address and an agent to accept service of legal and tax documents. They usually charge a few hundred dollars annually. There are some national companies that do this (like CT Corporation) but there are probably local law firms or notaries that provide this service. It's not a rewarding use of club expenses but it's just part of administration of an organization.

You don't want to use a club officer because all their info becomes public records. Also, as you change officers you'll have to refile or amend your documents every time. Failing to maintain current records with the state could jeopardize your incorporated status.

This is an appropriate response for entities that can afford it. Unfortunately, that is rarely a cost that many homebrew clubs can afford.

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