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Messages - mabrungard

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691
All Grain Brewing / Re: Which water salts have you used?
« on: March 11, 2016, 02:42:12 PM »
One of my clients brewing in the South Pacific uses Mag Chloride. He insists its necessary for his Hefe. He starts with what amounts to rainwater.

I'm not sure its really necessary to go in that direction. Especially when Mag Chloride is one of those hygroscopic minerals that sucks up moisture from the air, when changes the mineral's hydration state.

692
All Grain Brewing / Re: Adjusting Mash PH and Mash Temperature Loss
« on: March 09, 2016, 10:02:41 PM »
I've observed that there is an important phenomena in mashing pH that needs to be spread to you brewers. Through the thousands of mashing pH measurements that I've made over the years, there is an interesting tendency in early and late pH measurements.

When an early mash pH measurement is lower than 5.4, the pH tends to rise toward 5.4 during the mash duration. Similarly, when an early mash pH measurement is higher than 5.4, the pH tends to drop toward 5.4 during the mash. For that reason, when you have done a reasonable job of treating your brewing water to produce a desirable pH via either experience or a program like Bru'n Water, its probably best not to screw with chasing pH when you find that an early measurement is off.

To produce the most homogeneous distribution of minerals and acid in your mash, its also very important to add those components to the water before mashing in so that you can thoroughly mix them into the water. Anyone that adds minerals or acids to the mash after the grain is in there, is not doing themselves much good. It takes an incredible amount of mash mixing to get those components evenly distributed at that point. The only brewers that can get away with adding acid or minerals to the mash after the mash-in are those with wort recirculation. Recirculation does a better job of mixing than physical mixing can do.   

693
Equipment and Software / Re: Washer Rust/oxidation - Mash Tun
« on: March 09, 2016, 02:03:06 PM »
You do want to either replace or isolate that washer or it could impart enough iron into the wort to be tasted. If replacing, get at least 304 grade stainless, with a preference to 316.

You don't have to replace though. You can coat the rusting metal with silicone seal rubber. Don't worry about the heat rating since you aren't placing the rubber under a physical stress. I do recommend using food-grade material and not using the heat-resistant type of the silicone seal. I'm pretty sure the heat-resistant stuff isn't food-grade.

Only another week until Qatar!

694
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: BJCP Qued Judging
« on: March 08, 2016, 05:45:41 PM »
There are only 3 places, so it makes no sense to push 4 to MBOS. However, I have pushed 3 to MBOS and all 3 of them medaled. Its rare, but maybe you are the lucky one that judged the best beers in the entire flight. What is more pathetic is when you have no beers that you want to push, but push one anyhow. Its sad, but maybe your best poor beer is still better than the other team's beers.

695
All Grain Brewing / Re: PH Definition
« on: March 04, 2016, 07:58:42 PM »
I create Berliners and perform a regular mash at around 5.4 and then sour that wort with my naturally-cultured lacto to bring the wort to around 3.0 to 3.5. The soured wort is then boiled with a minimal amount of hops and then pitched with a neutral ale yeast. You should see the HUGE head that forms in the kettle as that soured wort is brought to a boil. It is impressive, but it falls once the boil starts.

696
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Water PH
« on: March 03, 2016, 10:33:19 PM »
pH can be a serious issue for extract brewers. Generally, if the water used for steeping or reconstituting the extract has much alkalinity, that will echo into the final wort. All the same problems that all-grain brewers experience if their mash and wort pH are too high will be felt by extract brewers.

Water matters.

697
All Grain Brewing / Re: New Aluminum Brew Pot
« on: March 02, 2016, 01:37:00 PM »
I found that boiling some hard water in the pot helps bring in the dark gray patina, changing the bright metal.

698
All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n Water Pale Ale Profile
« on: March 01, 2016, 10:58:56 PM »
I'm not quite sure if there is an ideal or proper way to account for the effect of over-concentration, but the approach Steve mentions should be as good as any.

699
All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n Water Pale Ale Profile
« on: March 01, 2016, 09:14:16 PM »
Those boil off percentages were in terms of total loss. Don't get that confused with percent loss per hour, which is a rate.

While the rate is important in figuring out the total loss, rate is almost meaningless with respect to the concentration effect on the ionic content. Loss Rate x Time = Total Loss. Loss Rate can be expressed as a percentage, but as Denny points out, that can get you into trouble when the batch size differs.

700
All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n Water Pale Ale Profile
« on: February 29, 2016, 10:51:18 PM »
A caution to any brewers using highly mineralized profiles like the Pale Ale profile: If your brewing system and practices are boiling off more than about 10% of the original wort volume, you could easily be over-concentrating the mineral content in the resulting wort and beer. Pro systems typically lose about 5% to 8% since they are more covered than the typical homebrewer's setup, so be aware that this hazard of boiling off too much is there. This is especially true for brewers that make smaller batches.

It may not be the profile, it may be the boil-off rate!

701
Beer Recipes / Re: Need a little advice...
« on: February 29, 2016, 10:46:03 PM »
I'd use at least 50% of your malt as Munich.  That got me the closest I've been. 

I find that this is true for me also. One of the best Milds I made was with Paul's Mild Malt and that malt is more like a Munich malt than a pale malt, in my opinion. Since I can't get that malt at my LHBS, I do use a measure of light Munich malt to provide the flavor I think should be there.

702
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pre-Hopped malt extract water adjustment
« on: February 28, 2016, 12:46:32 PM »
Yes, water adjustments are tricky with extract since you don't know what you are starting with. However, the most important thing you can do for extract brewing is to assure that the water has very little alkalinity. Starting with RO or distilled water is highly desirable, but you can acidify your tap water to reduce alkalinity as long as that tap water isn't very mineralized.

703
All Grain Brewing / Re: Oktoberfest water profile
« on: February 27, 2016, 02:25:22 PM »
Please recognize that the comment about the calcium being too low was made prior to my 'discovery' that we don't need much calcium when brewing lagers. Lager yeast are actually adversely affected by high calcium. With that said, adding all of your calcium salts to the mashing water helps boost the calcium level during the mash and that helps remove oxalate from the wort. 40 ppm Ca in the mash seems to be sufficient for removing oxalate.  Assuming that your sparging water has low calcium, the overall calcium level in the kettle wort is dropped into the low levels preferred by lager yeasts.

By the way, you certainly can have more chloride or sulfate in your Munich-inspired beer styles, just don't go too high!

704
Ingredients / Re: Magnesium!
« on: February 26, 2016, 09:37:01 PM »
I'm glad someone finally agrees with me. Mg is OK in bittered styles.

705
We are 501 c 7 and we file every year, but as long as you're under whatever the mark is (I think currently 50k) you're fine.

Recognize that the Maltose Falcons are a case in point for clubs that really need 501(c)7 designation since they have a huge fundraiser and the tax ramifications would be dramatic if they didn't have it. But if your club doesn't have a huge income like the Falcons, don't worry about getting 501(c)7.

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