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Messages - mabrungard

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736
All Grain Brewing / Re: Hitting you mash pH
« on: December 26, 2015, 02:28:00 AM »
20 minutes into the mash my first pH reading was 5.7. I was able to get it down to 5.4 using 3/4tsp of Lactic Acid. But that adjustment took place 1/2 way into the mash. Should I not worry about the 30 minutes of the mash sitting at the higher pH?

I can virtually guarantee that you were chasing your tail. The fact is that mash pH varies during a mash. I've noted a fairly consistent tendency for a high initial pH to fall a bit during the mash and a low pH to rise a bit. There seems to be a buffering action that tends to bring mash pH closer to 5.4. So that 5.7 would have naturally fallen if you had given it time.

My strong recommendation is to NOT adjust mash pH during the mash. Make the predetermined adjustments using a program like Bru'n Water and let the pH go. Do monitor the actual room temperature pH during the mash and make note of the final pH at the end of the mash. If its more than a couple of tenths off, make a note of it and add either a dose of acid or alkali to the kettle to bring the pH closer to expectation. But don't chase pH during the mash since it will vary by itself.

Jim, did you measure the kettle wort pH before the boil? I'm curious if the pH was at your target or below.   

737
Ingredients / Re: Is there a chlorine/chloramine test?
« on: December 26, 2015, 12:55:39 AM »
Section 4.1.6 on Bru'n Water's Water Knowledge page presents all you need to know about chlorine testing.

738
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rubbing Alcohol Off Flavor
« on: December 25, 2015, 08:53:49 PM »
Higher alcohols are the result of the metabolization of amino acids via the Ehrlich Pathway or sugar via biosynthesis.  The rubbing alcohol aroma is more than likely the result of 1-propanol production.

I need a teaching moment! Mark, what does this info mean for our practices? Is there an impact from oxygenation?  Under or over?

My experience is that temperature plays a big role and I've heard that over-oxygenation also plays a role in higher alcohol production.

739
Go to the home improvement store and review the PEX fittings. I think you will find that the plastic 90 degree elbows are what you need.  I use a 1/2-inch version in my setup.

740
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rubbing Alcohol Off Flavor
« on: December 24, 2015, 03:21:08 PM »
Eric, I based the 10 minute mark off my typical practices. I have an in-line oxygenator and it typically takes about 10 minutes to complete the chilling and transfer. To calm your fear of over-oxygenation in my system, I can say that I get about 15 to 20, 5-gal batches per red cylinder of O2. So I am trickling oxygen into the in-line oxygenator. Those using up one of those tanks in a lot fewer batches should rethink their procedures.

741
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rubbing Alcohol Off Flavor
« on: December 23, 2015, 06:25:48 PM »
Yes, over-oxygenation of your wort is reputed to foster rougher, fusel alcohol formation. Jamil mentioned that in an article or one of his shows many years ago. If using dry yeast, there is little need to oxygenate the wort. About 10 minutes of oxygen at a trickle that barely makes it to the surface of the fermenter is about all your wort needs.

742
Other Fermentables / Re: Lemon as a Yeast nutrient
« on: December 23, 2015, 04:27:51 PM »
Very unlikely that lemon would supply much in the way of yeast nutrient. The main contributions are citric acid and simple sugars.

743
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: evaluating dark beers
« on: December 22, 2015, 01:43:29 PM »
Calcium     Magnesium     Sodium     Sulfate     Chloride     Bicarbonate
63             7.1                 33            52           46             181.78


Cl - not sure, but legal maximum is 0.25 mg/l, and I'm sure in practice it's lower. The water is quite drinkable as such.

I've not seen a legal maximum for chlorine that low. The more typical requirement for potable water is for a disinfectant residual to be below 2 or 3 mg/l. That is a protective measure for the water in the distribution piping. It does degrade in time and you want the disinfectant to reach all areas of the system with enough killing power.

If the brewers aren't taking measures to remove even that low disinfectant content, there is a very good chance that chlorophenols are being produced in perceptable levels. Chlorophenols ruin beer at far lower concentration than the original disinfectant.

As already mentioned, the bicarb level MIGHT be low enough to work in some dark mashes. But that water would reek havoc on the overall wort pH if it is used as-is for sparging. The bicarb content must be neutralized to a much lower level to avoid raising the mash pH and leaching tannins and silicates.

Employ campden tablets or carbon filtration and properly acidify mashing and sparging water to meet the requirements of each brew.

744
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Opinions on Homebrewing Equipment
« on: December 20, 2015, 05:06:42 PM »
I am absolutely a skin-flint. I don't buy anything I don't need. However, due to a desire to stay out of the cold Indiana winters, I've upgraded my system to all electric. I could have still gone with natural gas since the line is just feet from my brew room, but that skin-flint/self preservation thing kicked in and I decided that all electric was the best for me and least likely to kill me or the family.

I have cobbled together all my gear over the course of 15 years and its been satisfying. One step at a time, I've assembled what I consider to be utilitarian and functional gear. Sure, it would look better to have a wiz-bang, fancy commercially-sourced system, but that is not me. Half the joy of the hobby for me is learning and creating.

Invest in the equipment that meets your needs and moves you along in your continuum to what you consider brewing satisfaction. Don't lose sight of the fact that sometimes paying more for quality is worth it.

745
Beer Recipes / Re: Chasing the perfect Munich Helles
« on: December 16, 2015, 05:29:49 PM »

^^^^ what are examples of diastatic power dextrin malt

Would that be something like Chit malt?

746
All Grain Brewing / Re: Hitting you mash pH
« on: December 16, 2015, 02:02:31 PM »
I've noted a curious pH result in some mashes. The pH can vary by over 0.1 units during the course of a mash. Needless to say that this could be alarming when you are expecting a certain result. However, continued monitoring of the pH during my last several mashes have shown that the pH tends to come back to the targeted value by the end of the mash.

In addition, it seems that mash pH tends to self correct to a value closer to 5.4 when the pH is either higher or lower than that value. So my darker mashes in which I'm targeting a pH of 5.5 or more tend to drop their pH throughout the mashing period and paler mashes in which I'm targeting a pH of 5.3 or less tend to rise. The final result typically gets closer to around 5.4.

Interesting results that suggest that we should NOT be overly alarmed when a pH reading isn't exactly where you intended it to be. Don't go reaching for more acid or alkali when an early reading isn't where you want it, give it some more time.

747
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: too much salt?
« on: December 13, 2015, 03:25:10 PM »
High chloride content with high sulfate content does result in 'minerally' taste. Dortmund water is a case in point.

748
Equipment and Software / Re: Promash Status
« on: December 13, 2015, 02:00:15 PM »
I just reviewed the corporate status of Sausalito Brewing Co on the California corporation search. It's out of business or hasn't paid the incorporation fee.

749
All Grain Brewing / Re: Does water hardness directly lower the mash pH?
« on: December 13, 2015, 03:13:34 AM »

Sounds like a Brulosophy exbeeriment in the making.....  Burton profile pre-boiled vs Burton profile "straight".

Bad example. Burton water has very high permanent hardness and low temporary hardness. Pre-boiling will make very little difference in the water and its response in brewing. The experiment would be more telling by starting with a water with high temporary hardness. Then there would be a notable difference.

750
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: too much salt?
« on: December 12, 2015, 03:45:53 PM »
You can always try making a Gose....

True, but that water is no where near the saltiness of a Gose. Gose should have a sodium content of around 200 to 250 ppm. The salt enhances sweetness in that soured beer. It is not added to create salty tasting beer. Exceeding about 250 ppm Na is when you can start perceiving 'salt'.

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