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Messages - mabrungard

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76
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Diluting 88% lactic acid
« on: August 14, 2018, 01:33:09 PM »
I too have found that mash pH changes substantially during the early stage of mash. I now delay my initial pH measurements until around the 15 minute mark since it is more stable by then. While I agree that a lot of conversion is occuring in the early mashing stage, using a decent brewing water calculator and adding the full prescribed dose into the mashing water is far better than dosing a little and waiting to see what the result is. With that incremental dosing, you really are hampering your results since the mashing pH is likely well off the mark.

Trust, but verify.

77
I did the same, but a 50a spa subpanel fed from a 50a breaker in my main panel. I then shoehorned a 4 prong 50a recepticle into the subpanel and plug my brewing panel into the subpanel when I want to brew. I just wanted a physical disconnect so that its less likely that someone could flip a switch on my brewing panel and burn the house down. 

78
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: pH
« on: August 09, 2018, 12:06:46 PM »
If the mash was truly homogenous, then it would be untypical for the pH of the mash wort to be lower than the kettle wort. Is it possible that the mash wasn't homogenous...not well mixed and recirculated?

79
I'm very sparing with oxygenation. I use an in-line stone with about 20 ft of line that delivers wort from the kettle, through the chiller, and to the fermenter. I probably have 20 5-gal batches on the little red oxygen canister that I'm still using.

80
Ingredients / Re: Interesting Brewtan B reaction
« on: August 08, 2018, 12:19:46 PM »
Brown water, pink water, purple water.  DOES THIS BOTHER NO ONE?! 🤣
I kid! I kid! Sort of...

I know!! I hate it how the grain makes my nice colorless water and turns it somewhere between yellow and black. 

81
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Saflager 34/70 lag time
« on: August 07, 2018, 08:15:59 PM »
"Fast" lager is nothing new. 

I have to disagree. There are some lager strains that clean up quickly and others that don't. But this is in respect to producing great tasting beer. However you can certainly produce a passable lager 'fast'. 

82
Ingredients / Re: Interesting Brewtan B reaction
« on: August 07, 2018, 01:22:04 AM »
When brewing with lightly mineralized water, it doesn't matter if you add the lime before or after the grain. There is nothing in the water to precipitate.

As to the reaction with the brewtan, I'm not sure what might have gone on there. I do know that brewtan reacts with iron and produces a dark tint.

83
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Warm humid climate
« on: August 06, 2018, 06:59:30 PM »
Another option for reducing the impact of a warm climate and the need for fermentation cooling is to employ Kviek yeast. I was just introduced to those yeasts and they do appear to eliminate fusel alcohol production even when fermented very warm. The drawback is that those yeast produce very fruity esters. That might not be a drawback in some styles, but could be in others. I am impressed.

84
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: secondary in keg
« on: August 03, 2018, 02:16:15 PM »
I'm not sure if the chalk addition is doing you any good. In addition, I'm not sure that the grist's acidity is great enough to warrant the need for chalk or another alkali.

Regarding pH strips, there is no telling if your wort pH is anywhere near a desirable level. Hopefully you're not using the regular paper strips since they certainly are worthless in brewing. If you're using the plastic strips, there is hope that they're in the vicinity of a true measurement. However, even the plastic strips are typically off by at least a tenth.

85
Equipment and Software / Re: Bru'n Water profile for a Gose?
« on: August 03, 2018, 02:09:47 PM »
I have not researched water profiles in Leipzig, but I do know that some sources are naturally infused with elevated sodium and chloride that helps sweeten the resulting beers and that serves as a pleasant counter to the tartness of the sour beer.

I've brewed Berliner Weise's and have typically used a relatively innocuous water profile with little mineralization. The Yellow Balanced and Yellow Full profiles should serve well. Since quite a bit of sodium is eventually added to the finished Gose, I caution against including much sulfate in the brewing water since sodium and sulfate don't play nicely with each other. So I'm more inclined to recommend the Yellow Full profile as a starting point for this beer.

Do target a normal mashing pH of around 5.4. Delaying the addition of the souring acid malt is a wise approach since that addition will significantly depress the wort pH and a too low mashing will result in a thinner and overly fermentable wort. Keeping the mashing pH at a more normal level should avoid that tendency.

I also recommend that brewers delay their salt addition until after fermentation. The yeast MAY perform better without the extra sodium and chloride although I don't have direct knowledge that elevated sodium and chloride affect yeast metabolism.

The taste threshold for sodium is around 250 ppm and all the evidence and experience I have, suggests that a table salt addition that brings the Gose's sodium level to about that level is appropriate. This avoids the 'seawater' flavor that some brewers unfortunately think the style should have. The goal of the table salt addition should be to sweeten the beer to provide the pleasant backdrop for the beer's acidity without crossing over into true 'saltiness'. This is just like salting your watermelon. The right amount sweetens, while overdoing it just makes it salty.

Enjoy! 

PS: While acid malt can be employed to sour this beer, I find that cultivating a diverse lactobacillus culture produces a more pleasant and appealing result.

86
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: secondary in keg
« on: August 02, 2018, 05:39:57 PM »
Are you suggesting too hot? Or too cold? I guess both could be correct? That’s why I’m asking.
Too hot, kill the enzymes. Too cold, doesn’t convert them properly?

Sadly, I've experienced the effects of a RIMS where I failed to monitor the temperature of the wort at the heater outlet. While my mash temperature was fine, the superelevation of the wort temperature at the heater outlet resulted in premature denaturing of the enzymes and the production of a wort that wasn't fully converted.

One bonus: I learned what 'worty' beer tastes like.

87
Questions about the forum? / Re: Competition Reviews
« on: August 02, 2018, 12:18:16 PM »
If this was a properly run, anonymous-sample contest, there is no way that favoritism had an impact on awards or feedback. The judges and organizers just don't know if they're dissing or celebrating their buddy's beer. That fact that the awards went to the local clubs is more likely to mean: They have better beers.

Um, the other reason that 90% of the awards went to the locals is that they probably made up the lion's share of the entries. Just assuming that their brewers are just as capable as more distant brewers, the rules of probability still indicate that they are going to take more medals due to their greater entry numbers. 

88
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: secondary in keg
« on: August 02, 2018, 12:04:20 PM »
Are you sure your mash and wort were really at 150F? Is the thermometer verified? Do you run a RIMS or HERMS and if so, what is the maximum temperature that the wort gets in the recirculation?

With a decent pitch of yeast that has good attenuation capability, the wort is the most likely reason that the fermentation didn't progress as desired.

89
One of the several things I learned from the "Whirlpool Techniques" session that I introduced at HomebrewCon 2018, was that you have no chance of infection when the wort temperature is above 140F and falling. Therefore, its only the late stage of your chilling that you need to maybe worry.

By the way, you should check out this session since it did have some interesting info.

90
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Think I'm going back to whole cone
« on: July 29, 2018, 09:10:07 PM »
Well in addition to their bulkiness that aids in something like a hopback, I find that whole hops are helpful in holding together the trub pile that exists in the kettle following whirlpooling. Otherwise, I don't see a valid reason to hold whole hops with higher regard than pellets. Pellets will always be my preferred option.

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