Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - mabrungard

Pages: 1 ... 51 52 [53] 54 55 ... 103
Commercial Beer Reviews / Becks Black Sapphire
« on: February 01, 2013, 07:47:20 PM »
I had a bottle of this today and came away modestly impressed.  It is a Pils style, but I felt the maltiness lingered a bit too long and the beer didn't dry very well in the finish.  Maybe a touch more attenuation or a touch more sulfate to help dry the finish.  The hopping was interesting.  The Sapphire hops were pleasant and add a winey character that generally agrees with the maltiness.  Not a bad beer.  I'd have it again, but I'm not sure that it can pass the 3 bottle test...I could not drink 3 of these, but I might be able to enjoy 2 bottles. 

PS: The only thing black about this beer is the bottle.  At least you won't have to worry about skunking in the package.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch Sparging pH
« on: January 30, 2013, 02:22:33 PM »
Martin, IIRC you fly sparge.  Is that correct?  If so, have you tried batch sparging to see how it compares pH wise on the sparge?

I've only fly sparged in all my brews. (BTW, I finally passed the century mark with last week's brew. :-)  It pales in comparison to Denny's 400+ batches, but I'm working on it). 

I wouldn't think the pH results should differ between fly and batch sparging.  The same volume of water is pushed through the grain bed and the same quantity of buffering from the malt is exhausted. Interesting question though.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch Sparging pH
« on: January 30, 2013, 10:30:37 AM »
If you have relatively low alkalinity in your water, then you may not have to adjust your sparging water.  If the water has more significant alkalinity, you could easily have tannin and kettle pH problems if you don't reduce the sparging water alkalinity.  This is one of those, "it depends" questions.

Although you don't have to add the calculated mineral additions to the sparging water (you could add them directly to the kettle), I think that it could be wise to add the calcium containing minerals to the sparging water to help complex with any tannins from the grain and further reduce astringency problems in the beer.  This is one of those things that I don't know for sure, but it can't hurt.  Therefore, I do recommend that those calcium-containing minerals be added to the sparging water instead of directly to the kettle.   

Ingredients / Re: Rahr Base Malts and Bru'n Water
« on: January 29, 2013, 02:26:02 PM »
Assuming that the final beer pH is somewhat influenced by the mash pH, I wonder if the flavor of certain beers are enhanced by lower pH?  Like wine, too high of pH and its flabby.  I'm thinking the sharper flaovrs of citrusy hops might be enhanced by more acid, whereas a malt-forward beer might seem smoother at a higher pH.

Not necessarily,  Higher pH helps accentuate hops since they are an 'acid'.  The alpha acids do present themselves more with slightly higher pH.  In last yea'rs Water Panel, Colin mentioned that he has noticed that low wort pH reduces the hop expression.  For that reason, I feel that maltier beers tend to present a little better with a slightly low wort pH.  I extrapolate that the reduction in the hop expression allows the malt to shine more and its crisper and cleaner.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Critique this Pale Mild Recipe?
« on: January 27, 2013, 08:23:00 AM »
That should be a fine outcome.  I've been a fan of Jeff Renner's Mild recipe and I've refined it over the years. It focuses on Briess' Ashburne malt.  I've enjoyed it even more with Paul's Mild Malt from the UK, but that malt is hard to find.  The other substitute I've found for Mild malt is light Munich malt, since both are a bit darker than Pale malt and provide a bit more richness in the flavor. 

I've tried the Reaper's Mild on Homebrewtalk and its nice, but it does use an incredible 20+ percent crystal malt and it does come across nicely sweet.  But I can't say that passes my 1, 2, or 3 pint test. Its approaching a cloying taste that makes it hard to go for that third pint.  A Mild should always pass that 3 pint test.  The one thing that the recipe did introduce me to was the Pale Chocolate malt.  That is an incredibly good addition to a Mild.

As you might gather, Mild is a style I've focused on and enjoy.  Packing flavor into a little beer like that is tough, but its worth it.  Enjoy!

PS: This is why there is a Mild water profile in Bru'n Water...I like Milds!

Ingredients / Re: Rahr Base Malts and Bru'n Water
« on: January 27, 2013, 08:07:13 AM »
I don't know why their base malts produce this effect.  I just know that its true.  I don't know that the darker malts have that effect, but their limited percentage in most grists probably make that feature inconsequential. 

I've hypothesized that this is actually a good thing for most brewers since most of the county's water supplies are alkaline (see the alkalinity map that I posted on the Water Knowledge page at the Bru'n Water website).  So having a base malt that helps combat that alkaline water is likely to improve beers in which the brewer hasn't learned the fine points of mash pH adjustment.  So, its a win-win for the brewer and the maltster.  But for brewers that use a program like Bru'n Water, they need to know that Rahr malts are likely to drive their mash pH down a bit more than expected.  That isn't a bad thing, but it is something that the brewer should know about beforehand.  Bru'n Water is all about predicting and creating a desirable mash pH and beer outcome!

Ingredients / Re: Fresh Ginger or Dry Ginger??
« on: January 27, 2013, 08:00:09 AM »
One of my clubmates (last year's Indiana Homebrewer of the Year and NHC medal winner) prefers to use dried ginger.  That startled me when he mentioned it.  But his point was that ginger root has such variability that being able to incorporate a more consistent product into your beer is more important than any extra flavor nuances that a fresh product can provide.  And for any of you that have used ginger, you know that the proper amount is welcome.  But overdosing a brew with ginger can easily make it unpalatable. 

If you expect to make a consistent and pleasant gingered beer, its best to use the dried form.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Whirlpool "Strength"
« on: January 26, 2013, 05:00:14 AM »
The steepness of the coned material in the center of the kettle is dependent upon the 'shear strength' of the material.  In the case of the ground hop matter in pelletized hops, the shear strength is nearly zero since that cone is composed of hydrated proteins and vegetative materials.  Essentially, its goose crap. 

If you use whole hops, then the cone can take on more shape because there is mechanical, 'particle to particle' contact between the individual hop cones.  That mechanical contact increases the shear strength of the mass and allows it to 'cone' better.  One of my old brewing buddies pointed out that a good technique for improving the coning of the hops and trub was to include at least a small proportion of whole or plug hops in the hop bill to provide that strength to hold the cone together.  I prefer pellet hops, but using 100% pellets hops will leave you with a 'flatter' cone nearly every time.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Another Question
« on: January 24, 2013, 05:25:20 PM »
I can carbonate a beer in about a day with enough chill and CO2 pressure, but it won't be right.  I feel that it has something to do with the 'hydration' of the CO2.  You can get the CO2 into solution, but it then has to hydrate.  That hydration is a slow process.  In my experience, about 2 weeks is needed for the carbonation to become 'normal'.  That beer should be getting close.

Ingredients / Re: Prefered base malt for brewing?
« on: January 22, 2013, 03:38:29 PM » don't have any of the malts I can get.  But I'd go with a 2 row pale malt as my basic base since I largely brew ales.

Ingredients / Rahr Base Malts and Bru'n Water
« on: January 20, 2013, 12:28:01 PM »
As we know from several sources, Rahr base malts tend to produce a mash pH that is a couple of tenths lower than other similar base malts.  I just finished up a brew using a large percentage of Rahr 2-row Pale and was able to verify a corrective input for Bru'n Water that accounts for the higher acidity Rahr malt. 

I recommend increasing the color rating of the Rahr base malt by about 3 lovibond to account for the extra acidity.  For example, for a Rahr Pale malt with a color rating of 2 L, input the color rating as 5 L in Bru'n Water.  That will improve the accuracy of the mash pH prediction.


All Grain Brewing / Re: Overshot Mash PH
« on: January 20, 2013, 12:16:30 PM »
Matt, What does Bru'n Water tell you if you input that acid malt into the grain bill.  Does the estimated mash pH and the observed pH agree?  That is useful information for my calibration use. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Overshot Mash PH
« on: January 20, 2013, 06:16:35 AM »
Hey Martin!  It was 5.1 at room temp.  Bru'n water told me to use much more Acid Malt than I was accustomed-1.8# to get to 5.2. 


That is a problem with acid malt, it can be variable.  That is why I don't recommend it.  I'm more comfortable using lactic with a known strength. 

I welcome reports from any brewers about their results using  the amount of acid malt recommended by Bru'n Water and the resulting mash pH.  The acidity contribution that I've used in Bru'n Water was based on Weyermann's rule of thumb with 0.1 pH drop per percent of grist.  It could easily be off since I don't use that stuff and I haven't heard from anyone that does.  My ears are open!

All Grain Brewing / Re: Overshot Mash PH
« on: January 19, 2013, 01:36:19 PM »
Was that a room temp pH measurement?  5.2 is already on the low side if it was.  5.1 is more so.  The body might be decreased a bit since the wort fermentability will be higher.  It might be a little more tart, but if the sparging water was not acidified, maybe the kettle wort pH won't be that low. 

Equipment and Software / Re: Going Electric
« on: January 19, 2013, 10:48:11 AM »
I have high confidence in my GFI's.  My old system just used a normal 120v GFI that I wired into a heavy-duty extension cord and enclosed in a junction box.  It still works fine, but I've upgraded my whole system to operate at 240v.  The photo shows my old GFI beside my new unit (a 50a Spa GFI).  They will protect you.  Of course, make sure that all your equipment is properly grounded. The Vari-Speed thing is the exhaust fan controller.


Pages: 1 ... 51 52 [53] 54 55 ... 103