Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - mabrungard

Pages: 1 ... 52 53 [54] 55 56 ... 121
796
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bo-pils frustration (saaz problem??)
« on: December 30, 2013, 02:14:49 PM »
I have a half keg of problem Bo-Pils at home right now. Its not terrible, but there is an odd flavor to it that makes its far less than stellar. The hops were Czech Saaz from Hops Direct. They smelled fine in the mylar bag.

The malt flavor is nicely pils-like and the hops are spicey and assertive. There is just that odd flavor that isn't right. I've had the beer in front of a couple of Masters and a half dozen National judges and there is no consensus as to the flaw or its origin.

With all of that said, I've been wondering if water has something to do with it. I've had discussions with AJ Delange about the effect of mineralization and flavor. Many of you know of AJ's concerns with the interaction of sulfate and noble hops. This certainly could be an example. For the beer under discussion, I created a pseudo-Bo-pils water profile that bumps the calcium content to 40 ppm and keeps sulfate at 30 ppm and chloride at 50 ppm. That is still a low sulfate content.  So I have to question if the anions are working against the flavor in this beer.

But then I look at the low calcium content used by a number of lager brewers. For some of the mega-brewers, they routinely use less than 20 ppm Ca. In addition, Bavarian brewers also use less than 20 ppm Ca. We know there are problems with having low calcium content in brewing water, but this does not mean you can't do it. You just have to work around those problems. So I'm thinking that boosting calcium content is not necessarily desirable in these light malt-oriented lagers. Possibly there is a flavor impact?

So those of you that have noted undesirable taste in your light lagers, review if your calcium and other ion content was a little higher. For those that had favorable results and they have diminished in subsequent batches, was the water profile changed? I would like to get more data points regarding this idea I've presented.

797
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Trub and PH?
« on: December 29, 2013, 07:06:19 PM »
I don't know of a reason why trub would affect pH either. However, I'm wondering how you are predicting the pH?  There are some methods that are better than others.

798
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Stouts - grain to glass
« on: December 29, 2013, 07:01:08 PM »
A lower than typical kettle wort pH is OK in a dry stout and that helps create its flavor. Other stout and porter styles tend to be better with a more typical or slightly elevated pH.

When you reserve dark grains from the main mash to avoid an overly low mash pH, you aren't avoiding a reduced pH in the kettle. The acidifying effect of the dark grain will still reduce the wort pH in the kettle. You can estimate what the resulting wort pH will be by checking the pH prediction with all the grains and minerals in the mash. If that is in the very low 5 or high 4 pH range, then you might want to include some alkalinity in your mashing water to help boost the wort pH to a more desirable range.

In the case of the OP, it may be desirable to use some or all of that dark grain addition to bring the mash pH into a normal range and delete the acid malt. That will increase the overall wort pH in the kettle.

799
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 34/70
« on: December 24, 2013, 10:40:41 AM »

Because my LHBS charges $8 for one sachet.

Unfortunately, you are being gouged. They are probably seeing their liquid yeast sales drop and are trying to offset that by inflating the dry prices. Fortunately, dry yeast is quite 'shippable'. So it may be time to vote your discontent by shopping for that component elsewhere. If you find more acceptable pricing elsewhere, do bring it to the attention of your LHBS and give them the opportunity to drop their pricing to a more appropriate level. Do support the locals as much as possible, but you do need to point out unfairness and the fact that the open market exists!

800
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: This is what happens with you mess with PH
« on: December 24, 2013, 10:33:14 AM »
A pH drop from mashing to beer is common. Some yeasts are especially acidic. Ale yeasts always produce a lower pH than lager yeasts and some of those ale yeasts produce lower pH than others. I'm not sure about the Irish Ale yeast. 

The mashing and sparging pHs are a little bit lower than most beers need, but they aren't way out of line. I don't expect that they are responsible for the beer pH.

The ion levels in that water are fairly high. Why such a high calcium level? Although calcium is generally beneficial to the yeast, it does increase the yeast flocculation. It is possible that this helped drop the yeast a little prematurely. Warming the beer and resuspending the yeast may assist in helping the fermentation finish. Don't be afraid of heating the fermenter now since most of the fermentation and fermentation by-products have been formed (or avoided).

801
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astringency expected?
« on: December 22, 2013, 02:47:12 PM »
It shouldn't affect astringency, but it could increase the ester production and possibly fusel alcohol production.

802
Kegging and Bottling / Re: I can't fiqure out where this sediment came from
« on: December 20, 2013, 09:32:29 AM »
I recall from the Yeast book that beer begins to look clear when the yeast count drops below something like 1 million cells per mL (or something like that). So even though the beer looks clear, there could be more than enough cells to coat the bottom of the bottle with enough time.

803
Beer Travel / Re: Travel to Indianapolis
« on: December 19, 2013, 01:55:44 PM »
Yes, as Kyle mentions, a cab is public transport in Indy.  The bus system is not the best. But there might be a bus that can get you to and from downtown to Broad Ripple.

The good thing is that downtown is somewhat compact and walkable, as long as its not freezing cold. Sun King is a little more than a mile walk from the Marriott and their tap room hours are a little limited. Ram and Rock Bottom are near the hotel.

If you want to enjoy Indiana beers, the Thomlinson Tap room is another good place to visit. It is an easy walk from the hotel. Mass Ave also is a great place to enjoy a beer.

804
Equipment and Software / Re: Can heater light bulb alternatives
« on: December 19, 2013, 01:46:04 PM »
A regular heating pad from the drug store is OK as long as it doesn't have an automatic shutoff circuit.

805
Ingredients / Re: Gotta Vent about CaraPils
« on: December 18, 2013, 01:54:05 PM »
+1 regarding wheat malt or flaked wheat for building head. Very effective. I also tried flaked barley for about a  half dozen brews. Flaked barley delivers about 10 times the beta-glucan as wheat and the head was huge! But I felt the flavor was downgraded in pale beers, even with teeny additions, so I switched to wheat. Wheat is more neutral tasting to me.

806
Beer Recipes / Re: How about an Oatmeal Stout recipe?
« on: December 18, 2013, 01:45:59 PM »
What about the contention that Michael Lewis makes in his book, Stout, where he said that oats were not a good contributor? I recall that he said the beer was rough or astringent, or something like that.

I don't understand how oats could impart that sort of flavor to beer since they don't seem to have that flavor in oatmeal. 

807
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Thermometers?
« on: December 16, 2013, 03:35:53 PM »


sure thing. make sure to use the 4.01 and 7.0 solution for calibration - they calibrate based upon a typical measured ph in the range of 5.0. also ATC is good up to 140F, so for accurate PH reading you will need to cool mash sample slightly (10-15F).... Im not sure how to account for PH variance taken at typical higher  mash temps in the 149-156F

...and your pH reading will still be off. All mash pH readings MUST be made at room temperature if you want to protect the probe and provide an accurate reading. ATC only corrects for the effect on the probe. It does not correct for the effect of temp on the pH of the mash. In other words, ATC is almost useless for brewing usage. Save your money and get a better meter and probe without ATC.

808
Questions about the forum? / Re: Buttons don't work
« on: December 15, 2013, 06:39:28 PM »
They work for me.

Try another browser. I'm using Chrome.

809
The Pub / Re: Plywood face frames?
« on: December 15, 2013, 06:37:45 PM »
No fancy moulding with a router. My basement is in a Craftsmen/Mission styling, so the woodwork is fairly square and blocky. By the way, all my cabinet doors and drawer faces were bought from a cabinet shop, so it looks professional.

810
The Pub / Re: Plywood face frames?
« on: December 15, 2013, 09:35:50 AM »
Phil, you are contemplating the thing that I just did for cabinets in my bar and basement. I used 3/4" oak and 3/4 birch plywood. For the painted cabinets, the birch was fine. The red oak cabinets came out very nicely after staining and sealing. Excepting for corner areas where the plywood edge is visible, you would have to look pretty hard to know they are not lumber faces.

When you consider that a ply face frame is more structurally sound than lumber pieces, it is easy to go that route. I gulped at the $50 per sheet cost of the oak plywood, but quickly calmed down when I considered the cost for finished oak lumber and the need to employ biscuits and other means to bring the frame together. I also had concern with the waste from having to cut out and waste the plywood for drawer and cabinet openings. But I couldn't argue with the cost and structural soundness.

I did 'route' the edges to create receiving channels at the corners and cabinet floors to enhance the structural joints. All joints were glued and finished nailed. I do not have a working router, but I do have my circular table and hand saws. I wanted to use a Dado blade to form the channels, but my table saw arbor was too short. So I had to make the channels the hard way with multiple parallel saw cuts and then chiseling out the channel to final depth and finish. It was a pain, but did not degrade the appearance of the finished product.

Regarding the ply edges, I could have planned for applying oak or birch veneers over those areas. But those edges are so hidden, a visitor would probably never see them. 

Go for it.

Pages: 1 ... 52 53 [54] 55 56 ... 121