Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - mabrungard

Pages: 1 ... 52 53 [54] 55 56 ... 104
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Whirlpool "Strength"
« on: January 26, 2013, 05:00:14 AM »
The steepness of the coned material in the center of the kettle is dependent upon the 'shear strength' of the material.  In the case of the ground hop matter in pelletized hops, the shear strength is nearly zero since that cone is composed of hydrated proteins and vegetative materials.  Essentially, its goose crap. 

If you use whole hops, then the cone can take on more shape because there is mechanical, 'particle to particle' contact between the individual hop cones.  That mechanical contact increases the shear strength of the mass and allows it to 'cone' better.  One of my old brewing buddies pointed out that a good technique for improving the coning of the hops and trub was to include at least a small proportion of whole or plug hops in the hop bill to provide that strength to hold the cone together.  I prefer pellet hops, but using 100% pellets hops will leave you with a 'flatter' cone nearly every time.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Another Question
« on: January 24, 2013, 05:25:20 PM »
I can carbonate a beer in about a day with enough chill and CO2 pressure, but it won't be right.  I feel that it has something to do with the 'hydration' of the CO2.  You can get the CO2 into solution, but it then has to hydrate.  That hydration is a slow process.  In my experience, about 2 weeks is needed for the carbonation to become 'normal'.  That beer should be getting close.

Ingredients / Re: Prefered base malt for brewing?
« on: January 22, 2013, 03:38:29 PM » don't have any of the malts I can get.  But I'd go with a 2 row pale malt as my basic base since I largely brew ales.

Ingredients / Rahr Base Malts and Bru'n Water
« on: January 20, 2013, 12:28:01 PM »
As we know from several sources, Rahr base malts tend to produce a mash pH that is a couple of tenths lower than other similar base malts.  I just finished up a brew using a large percentage of Rahr 2-row Pale and was able to verify a corrective input for Bru'n Water that accounts for the higher acidity Rahr malt. 

I recommend increasing the color rating of the Rahr base malt by about 3 lovibond to account for the extra acidity.  For example, for a Rahr Pale malt with a color rating of 2 L, input the color rating as 5 L in Bru'n Water.  That will improve the accuracy of the mash pH prediction.


All Grain Brewing / Re: Overshot Mash PH
« on: January 20, 2013, 12:16:30 PM »
Matt, What does Bru'n Water tell you if you input that acid malt into the grain bill.  Does the estimated mash pH and the observed pH agree?  That is useful information for my calibration use. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Overshot Mash PH
« on: January 20, 2013, 06:16:35 AM »
Hey Martin!  It was 5.1 at room temp.  Bru'n water told me to use much more Acid Malt than I was accustomed-1.8# to get to 5.2. 


That is a problem with acid malt, it can be variable.  That is why I don't recommend it.  I'm more comfortable using lactic with a known strength. 

I welcome reports from any brewers about their results using  the amount of acid malt recommended by Bru'n Water and the resulting mash pH.  The acidity contribution that I've used in Bru'n Water was based on Weyermann's rule of thumb with 0.1 pH drop per percent of grist.  It could easily be off since I don't use that stuff and I haven't heard from anyone that does.  My ears are open!

All Grain Brewing / Re: Overshot Mash PH
« on: January 19, 2013, 01:36:19 PM »
Was that a room temp pH measurement?  5.2 is already on the low side if it was.  5.1 is more so.  The body might be decreased a bit since the wort fermentability will be higher.  It might be a little more tart, but if the sparging water was not acidified, maybe the kettle wort pH won't be that low. 

Equipment and Software / Re: Going Electric
« on: January 19, 2013, 10:48:11 AM »
I have high confidence in my GFI's.  My old system just used a normal 120v GFI that I wired into a heavy-duty extension cord and enclosed in a junction box.  It still works fine, but I've upgraded my whole system to operate at 240v.  The photo shows my old GFI beside my new unit (a 50a Spa GFI).  They will protect you.  Of course, make sure that all your equipment is properly grounded. The Vari-Speed thing is the exhaust fan controller.


The Pub / Re: Pint Glass Pricing Poll
« on: January 17, 2013, 03:36:12 PM »
Ah, I saw what the glass was too late.  I was able to erase my vote and revote. 

By the way, I love my tulip glass from the Seattle AHA conference.  The only thing that would make it better is if it had a pint capacity instead of 12oz.

Ingredients / Re: Lemongrass
« on: January 16, 2013, 01:20:29 PM »
I agree with that assessment.

Equipment and Software / Re: Going Electric
« on: January 16, 2013, 01:19:15 PM »
I'm not surprised with Don's findings that 1500 w is about right for 5 gal.  I have up to 5500w in my kettle, but I have a pulse width modulator.  It helps to be able to turn up the heat input while the wort is heating, but the wort would literally jump out of the kettle if I left that much power delivered to the boil.  It was impressive the only time I did it!!! 

I don't know how much wattage I actually deliver when I'm boiling gently.  I suppose I could observe the amount of time the element is on versus off when the PWM is operating and then figure out what the average wattage is.  I wouldn't be surprised if it was around the 1500w mark.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Calculating Losses to hoses
« on: January 16, 2013, 01:10:25 PM »
I've been chasing with compressed air for years.  I know it should be unsanitary, but I haven't tasted the effects of infection (yet!).  I should use a better method.

Ingredients / Re: Lemongrass
« on: January 16, 2013, 01:07:24 PM »
My experience is that when using fresh Lemongrass, you need to cut all the green parts off and strip the shoot until its just white plant tissue.  A few inches of shoots prepared in this way is sufficient.  Chop them up before adding them at flame out.

Other Fermentables / Re: Copper does remove sulfur!
« on: January 16, 2013, 01:04:22 PM »
All breweries should have some copper in their system to supply ions for this reaction.  All stainless breweries have this sort of problem all the time.  They have to add some copper.  A piece of copper pipe is all it takes.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What were your gateway beers?
« on: January 15, 2013, 08:34:35 AM »
Wow, I must be weird.  I didn't get into 'craft' beers until after I had started homebrewing.  I was a Bud and Old Mulewalkee drinker all through college.  My wife and I 'upgraded' to Killians Red in the early 90's, but still didn't really dabble into craft or imports. 

It wasn't until I stumbled onto an Octoberfest event that my old club, North Florida Brewers League was hosting that I even thought about anything beyond the megabrews.  They were serving homebrew.  What, I could brew this??? And thus with the customary homebrewing kit as a Christmas present, my lifetime has been 'wasted' with homebrewing.  It was my association with NFBL that I was thoroughly introduced and indoctrinated into craft brews and beers beyond mega-lager.  That is where my true beer appreciation come from. 

I do have to admit that it was Pete's Wicked Ale that was a gateway for me, but that was after I was homebrewing and sampling any craft beer I found.  Now that I know how that beer was contract brewed and had such spotty quality and taste, I recognize how lucky I was to have sampled that one bottle of Pete's that was truly phenomenal.  That would have been the early 2000's. My personal favorite homebrew is my American Brown Ale that is quite similar to that Pete's bottle.  Its the beer I hone and savor.  I've brewed it to the point where it has scored in the mid 40's with National judges and remains a beer that gets brewed once or twice a year. 

Pages: 1 ... 52 53 [54] 55 56 ... 104