Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - mabrungard

Pages: 1 ... 56 57 [58] 59 60 ... 90
856
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: American Brown Style Guidelines
« on: February 18, 2012, 04:01:45 PM »
Funny this subject came up.  I just judged Best of Show with Gordon Strong and Sandy Cockerham at the All American Ale competition in Cincy.  Sadly, the best beer at the competition was a very nice Robust Porter.  Too bad it wasn't an American Brown Ale as it was entered. 

There is strong overlap between those two styles with the largest differentiator being the degree of roast character.  Both have substantial malt presence and can have varying degrees of hop flavor and aroma.  That hop flavor and aroma may have citrusy components. 

In my experience and preference, I must admit that the guidelines do present some confusion as to which is which.  I'd say that another differentiator that an Am Brown brewer should pay heed to is that the beer should finish with malt AND hop in the aftertaste.  That hop character may not be the classic American C hop character, but there had better be enough hop in there to let the drinker know that this was a hoppy ale and not so much a roasty ale. 

I hope this helps guide your taste perceptions and recipe adjustments.     

857
Questions about the forum? / Re: Changes
« on: February 17, 2012, 05:54:06 AM »
The 'go to last post' feature no longer works.  It just takes you to the first page of the thread. 

858
Equipment and Software / Re: Bru'n Water
« on: February 16, 2012, 11:02:03 AM »
Perfect. I dont think Im going to have Phosphoric acid for this go around so Im going to use Lactic Acid to lower my sparge ph if needed.  Ive heard Lactic acid can be unstable at higher temps, any suggestions on how to deal with this?

I think they are talking about the storage stability of the acid when subjected to higher temps, not its stability when added to mash or sparge water.  Once it hits the water, the hydrogen protons neutralize the bicarbonate and its job is done.  The lactate ions stay in solution.   No worries for stability.

859
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer apps fpr iPad
« on: February 16, 2012, 10:48:53 AM »
I did not like BrewPal for my iphone.  I do like BrewMath, but its just a collection of calculators, not a brewing program like Promash. 

860
Equipment and Software / Re: Bru'n Water
« on: February 15, 2012, 04:15:24 PM »
I like to keep the water profile the same for mashing and sparging, excepting for the alkalinity requirements of the mash.  Sparge water alkalinity should be low (as evidenced by the pH in the range of 5.5 to 6).

861
Equipment and Software / Re: Bru'n Water
« on: February 15, 2012, 02:08:12 PM »
Don't add alkalinity producing minerals unless the mash pH says its going to be too low.  I also recommend that a higher calcium target be used in order to promote good clearing and flocculation of the yeast. 

I realize you're trying to duplicate the local Chimay water, but that water profile still doesn't provide a brewer with the other things that the Chimay brewers do to their water. 

Personally, I would use the Yellow Balanced profile for a Tripel. 

862
Equipment and Software / Re: Manifold Placement in Fridge
« on: February 15, 2012, 01:59:39 PM »
I was just in your position.  If your fridge is like mine, there is a set of rails on the back wall of the fridge that the shelves plug in to.  There are holes in the rails every inch or something like that. 

My 4-way manifold has 4 sheet steel legs.  I just turned the manifold vertical and put 2 of the legs into the holes in one of the rails.  Now its up and out of the way. It seems to be fairly secure, but nothing other than a gravity fit is holding it in place. 

863
Ingredients / Re: Rye
« on: February 14, 2012, 06:41:39 AM »
My impression is that the effect is primarily the result of high beta glucan concentration in the beer.  Even though rye has less beta glucan production than oats and barley, the high percentage of rye added to the grist in the pursuit of rye's spicy flavor is what is pushes the overall beta glucan into the different or weird mouthfeel range.  I suppose it could also be termed a slickness in the mouthfeel. 

I did several beers with several percent flaked barley last year and they had moussy head production and a very interesting mouthfeel.  They were interesting experiments, but it was clear to me that I overdid the effect.  Excessive beta glucan does not really improve a beer. 

Given that we are going after the flavor of the rye in a beer like this, I have the feeling that this is a case when a brewer would want to employ a beta glucan rest in the mash to help reduce that effect while leaving the flavor. 

864
Equipment and Software / Re: RO water system
« on: February 13, 2012, 09:42:38 AM »
A home RO system is a good idea in terms of convenience, but may not be ideal in terms of total ownership cost.  In my case, the level of sodium in my municipally softened water was too much for me and my family to handle.  My RO system serves my brewing and the family drinking water needs.  

RO does use a lot of water to make its product water.  Fortunately in a lot of places, water is relatively inexpensive.  A consequence of creating a lot of wastewater from the RO process is that the wastewater mineralization is relatively low and the effect on the environment is lessened.  

Most RO systems come with a pressure-triggered cutoff valve so that they do not run constantly.  When the pressure on the outlet side is high enough, the flow stops and no wastewater is produced at that time.  Nate is correct that you do need to have them hooked up constantly.  You don't really want to hook up a system, use it, disconnect it, and then dry it out.  It should be hooked up constantly to keep the membrane and other filters hydrated constantly.  If you have a concern with water use while its 'off', the user can close the inlet valve and then you don't have to worry about any leakage or waste.  When you need it, open the valve and everything is still hydrated and ready to go.  

If you are storing your RO in a pressure tank, then you can reduce the amount of water waste by including a permeate pump in the RO system.  They improve the pressure drop across the membrane which decreases the water volume wasted.  Permeate pumps are noisy though.  They produce a cyclic thumping noise that might not be welcome if its in your living area.  The other option to improve water efficiency is to pump your water into an open tank.  That way there is less back-pressure on the membrane and that improves the efficiency.  A simple float switch in the open tank can shut off the flow and avoid an overflow.  Of course, you have to move the water from the tank yourself.  

RO does not produce pure water.  There is a little bit of mineralization that passes through the membrane.  It depends on the ion, but there is typically between 1 and 4 percent of the raw water's ions that make it through into the product water.  A typical RO water profile is included in Bru'n Water.  

A RO system should use a good membrane and it should not be a proprietary unit like GE, Kinetico, or Whirlpool if you want to keep your ownership costs low.  The generic systems that include a name brand membrane is generally going to provide you with the same life and service.  A good brand name for membranes is Filmtec or Dow.  Look for those names when scouting for a system.  Ebay has a bunch of system providers and the internet is full of providers.  All the components typically come from the same suppliers and they typically have quality.

A RO system MUST have an activated carbon filter to remove chlorine and chloramine.  Those chemicals will quickly destroy most membranes if left in the water.  A good RO system should include particulate filters to keep grit and debris off the membrane and carbon.  I typically see 1 and 5 micron filters quoted.  A RO system might have a polishing activated carbon filter, but I don't really see the need for that since the raw water went through carbon once.  So, look for a system that says it has 3 or 4 stages.  A 5 stage system may be overkill since that typically includes that second carbon filter.

If the raw water feeding the RO unit is really hard, then it might be helpful to feed the unit ion-exchange (salt) softened water to help extend the life of the membrane.  If there is already a softener in the house, then feed the RO unit from the softener.  If you don't have a softener, don't fret about it.  The high amount of water wasting is intended to help avoid crusting up the membrane with mineral scale.  Feeding the unit hard water isn't a big deal.  

Do have a way to check the quality of your RO product water.  A TDS meter is a good idea for anyone using RO water.  That includes anyone buying RO water from a grocery store machine.  I've seen multiple cases where brewers has problems with their brewing only to find out that the RO water machine was having problems and was delivering untreated water.  The TDS meter is cheap and its your first line of defense against a problem with either your home unit or grocery unit.  

Enjoy!  

865
Ingredients / Re: trying to get a handle on water chemistry.
« on: February 10, 2012, 12:52:22 PM »
Generally speaking, though, knowing the hardness is enough, especially with it being so low. I'd just assume that you have 15-25 ppm Ca and <5 ppm Mg. That should be sufficient for brewing purposes.

That could or could not be a good assumption.  There is no magic ratio of Ca to Mg.  Its all dependent upon the geology the water flowed through prior to getting to the user.  (Ca is almost always higher though).

866
That is a darn nice resource.  I do see that many profiles do not provide a 'complete' profile that is usable for brewing water chemistry.  The Water Report Input sheet in Bru'n Water can help you to decipher missing ions in some cases.  The objective is to produce a 'balanced' condition for the cations and anions. 

867
Ingredients / Re: trying to get a handle on water chemistry.
« on: February 10, 2012, 06:22:10 AM »
There isn't enough information in the report to allow anyone to decipher the relative Ca and Mg percentages.  I can see that the water should be a good starting point for brewing.  You will have to send a sample in for testing to confirm the ion profile.

868
Ingredients / Re: German Water Hardness
« on: February 09, 2012, 09:47:17 AM »

I adjust the Czeck Pils to 50 ppm Ca using CaCl2.


AJ and I just had a discussion about Pilsen water and the American Lager water profile I have included in Bru'n Water.  Either of those profiles have very low calcium that defies the current thinking on the minimum calcium in water.  As we know, those beers tend to have a degree of delicateness that is probably due in part to the low mineralization in the water.  

It appears that there are a couple of reasons why you could get away with a much lower Ca content than 40 or 50 ppm.   First, I've stated in the past that it appears that a minimum of 40 ppm Ca is appropriate for reducing beerstone formation.  We also know that 50 ppm Ca is helpful for improving yeast health and flocculation performance.  In the case of fighting beerstone, the mega brewers have probably instituted strenuous clean-in-place protocols that reduce the formation of beerstone in the first place.  We homebrewers would have to weigh if we want to incurr the wrath of beerstone by reducing Ca much lower than 40 ppm.  In the case of yeast health and flocculation, we know that big breweries have no problem in pitching huge quantities of yeast.  Therefore, yeast health and growth are not a big concern for them.  We also know that big breweries have elaborate settling, fining, and filtering procedures, so they don't really have to worry about flocculation in their brewhouse.  Craft and home brewers might need to pay more heed to this factor.  

So it appears that you could work around lower Ca concentrations in your brewing if you are willing to deal with the hazards.  

Enjoy!

869
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: First try at a session IPA
« on: February 07, 2012, 09:30:36 AM »
A session IPA is just a hoppy pale ale.

Although I agree with that statement, I've had a beer that was quoted as a session IPA.  That was Wanderer IPA from North Peak and it was 4.2% and 45 IBU.  Clearly it is below the PA alcohol limits, so it misses the PA mark too.  I'd say it more correctly should be called a session PA, but I'm betting marketing has some input there.  That beer did have a substantial hop flavor and aroma.  Maybe that is why they market it as an IPA?  It was good.

The hop flavor and aroma of the Wanderer far exceeds the limits of a Blonde Ale.  So that beer couldn't fit there. 

870
All Grain Brewing / Re: how recent should a water report be?
« on: February 05, 2012, 03:04:43 PM »
Water supply characteristics don't typically change if the supply is consistent.  For instance, if the supply is a big lake or big aquifer, then I wouldn't expect much change.  If its a river or a combination of differing reservoirs or lakes, then change could be daily.  Look at the supply in this way and that will enable you to assess if the water report is out of date.  More than likely, its OK. 

If the supply is really variable, then you really need to know how wide the variation is.  You would also have to have a simple set of test kits on hand for hardness and alkalinity so that you could nail down your water adjustments. 

Pages: 1 ... 56 57 [58] 59 60 ... 90