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Messages - jds357

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The Pub / Re: song title game
« on: June 08, 2012, 10:57:46 PM »
Slap her ass and ride the wave in - Deadwater Drowning.


All Grain Brewing / Re: protein rest... 122F or 133F?
« on: May 26, 2012, 11:25:37 PM »
According to Gordon Strong's book, "Brewing Better Beer" protein rests work in the range 104* to 140* F, but is most active between 122* and 131* F.  When I do a protein rest, it is normally at 131* F for 10-15 minutes. 

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Midas Touch
« on: May 26, 2012, 05:12:08 AM »
This is a great beer from DFH ancient ale series.  I have never tried a beer like this.  All of the unique ingredients come together in such an awesome, smooth way that I could easily drink a few of these.  All beer produced in the U.S., to my knowledge is mandated by law to include hops.  In Sam's book Extreme Brewing, he includes the recipe.  They use Simcoe Hops for this beer. 

Another Epic Ale from DFH...


Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegging and Temp Changes
« on: May 24, 2012, 01:52:41 AM »
I have also removed kegs from cold storage and left them at room temperature.  I have never had problems.  I would keep the beer at 16 psi.  You should have no issues. 


Kegging and Bottling / Re: To yeast, or not to yeast...
« on: May 24, 2012, 01:49:33 AM »
As far as adding additional yeast it depends on the alcohol content and how long it's been sitting around.  Most likely there's plenty of yeast left to carb it up.

+1 on that man


Kegging and Bottling / Re: conditioning time in keg
« on: May 24, 2012, 01:47:25 AM »
For ales I will leave in the primary for 10-14 days then rack to a keg.  For force carbonation, I cash cool and then FC, serving about a week after.  For natural keg conditioning, I'll leave it at room temperature for 3 weeks, then crash cool.  I'll let settle/ clarify after that for three days before I drink it. 

The time allowed is style dependent and brewer personal preference in my opinion. 


I've carbonated in a swing top growler and a screw cap.  Both work fine however, I prefer the swing top. Just make sure you don't over prime and you should be fine.  A great alternative to a glass growler is a stainless steel growler.  A company in Oregon makes them.  They are called Braulers and they are awesome.  When people worry about bottle bombs but still want to carb in small containers, I point them in that direction.  Full Sail Brewing co. currently sells them.

Let us know how your beer turned out man!


All Grain Brewing / Re: Why boother with the iodine test?
« on: May 21, 2012, 06:21:47 PM »
There is also another way you can check for conversion.  This method was discussed in the book "Brewing Better Beer" by Gordon Strong.  It's not a scientific way of doing it nor does it require equipment, only experience and your eyes.  During the early stages of the mash, the liquid is hazy or cloudy.  This is because of the presence of starch.  After some time, you will notice extreme clarity in the liquid.  This indicates that all available starches have been converted. 

I've never heard the way you've described but if it works, it works.  I only use iodine when I teach my friends home brewing. 


All Grain Brewing / Re: San Diego water for Pale Ale
« on: May 21, 2012, 06:09:45 PM »
Hey man,

I'm from San Diego as well.  For my brewing water, I use reverse osmosis water filtered through carbon. (Brita filters)  After that process i add a little gypsum.  I started doing this after i heard how Stone treats their water during a Beer:U presentation.  They have an additional step where they re-blend the treated water with some distilled water.  I don't go that far with it but the water that I use produces amazing tasting beers.  Find a water profile that works for you then use it (As long as the water you use is suitable for brewing).  It will help make your beer unique and it can help your personal style.

As far as the water goes that you're using, have you used it before?

The only way you'll know for sure if you like the water is to use it and try first hand.  I hope this helps.


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