Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - breweite

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7
..i may have a blowoff slurry or two in the corner that I should prob take care of...

Thanks, u never worry about getting some of that fridge air sucked back in?

I want to cold condition a pale ale (3 weeks after pitching) but my fridge is full. I can place it on top of the motor in the fridge because it's a small 3 gallon glass carboy, however, an airlock won't fit.  Only a piece of tinfoil because it's about .25 of an inch from the top..  Would you recommend this, or do I risk an infection?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Repitch with us05?
« on: April 20, 2014, 04:22:56 PM »
The saison yeast should still be ok to carbonate the bottles but it's my preference to re-yeast at bottling for high ABV and sour beers as an insurance policy. I've had some of those beers not carbonate so the small cost of a little dried wine yeast is worth it to me.

Is pitching the US05 right onto the beer in the bottling bucket OK with high ABV?

Kegging and Bottling / Repitch with us05?
« on: April 20, 2014, 03:08:11 PM »
I want to bottle my saison that I brewed back in October 2013.  I racked into a secondary and pitched Roselare blend with 3lbs of cherries in Jan 2014.  I know it would be idea to keep in secondary, but I've used roselare blend for short periods and then gone into bottles for long conditioning and I liked the results AND space saved..

Anyway, do I need to repitch some yeast before bottling, and what would the best practice be?  I only ask because I've heard there can be issues with repitching in high ABV.  Right now I'm around 10%. OR is there enough roselare blend that I pitched about 3 months ago in solution to do the carbing?

FYI - I'm going to high volumes of carbonation with my new 750 ml belgian bottles/corker and thought this would be a great beer for the new set up!

Thanks for the help.

Equipment and Software / Re: Organic muslin bags
« on: February 10, 2014, 01:44:56 AM »
I recently made the switch to organic brewing and I'm also BIAB.  I asked for organic materials awhile back on the forum and someone suggest voile.  So, I recommend just Google: Organic Voile. Tons of places to buy it, assuming you have a sewing machine or a friend, it's the best way to go.  Good Luck.


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sparging a Berliner Weisse
« on: January 27, 2014, 03:19:32 PM »
Kramer -
I ended up doing this, I let it sour for about 12 more hours. A longer time would've been nice but it was still really sour and tasty. I honestly couldn't notice any difference in taste.  I pitched my white labs 630 on it and now we'll see what happens. Next time, I will do a full volume mash (or at least as close as I can) just to save the extra step!

General Homebrew Discussion / Sparging a Berliner Weisse
« on: January 26, 2014, 05:52:15 PM »
I've been sour mashing for about 48 hours.  My method (BIAB):

3lbs Pils 3lbs Wheat
Mashing 3 Gallons h20 at 150F (2qt/lb)
Let it Cool to 115
Pitched a handful of umilled grains
set in my oven for 48hours
The temperature has moved up and down a little, but I've never gotten higher than 120, nor lower than 100.  I've probably been averaging 110.

The wort is extremely sour right now!  It smells and taste wonderful.  However, this is for a 5 gallon batch.  I need to still sparge about 3 more gallons of water (maybe a little less).  And then I'm going to go for a 15min boil. And then pitch WhiteLabs Berliner (I forget the #)

My questions is: how do I treat the sparge water? Will it dilute my sourness?  I'd hate to gather my collection of wort and have it not sour enough...

Other thought: beucase I'm brew in a bag, can I add that water now and then let is mash for another day?  I feel like I should've just added the entire water amount to begin with but I was worried about overflowing due to pot size.


Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Full Sail Berliner Weiss
« on: January 24, 2014, 05:03:05 AM »
Fortunately for me, Dave Logsdon's Farmhouse Brewery is about an hour from home. I'll be stopping in to try his funky beers very soon.

Hands down my favorite brewery!  Being from Texas I was excited to try all the beers in OR, and was so lucky to stumble across this gem. I'm jealous...

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Rinsing
« on: January 03, 2014, 03:41:14 PM »
I just did some yeast washing this morning!  My only question is about head space:  My mason jars aren't filled to the top, will this be a problem?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: BIAB Natural Bags?
« on: December 30, 2013, 02:41:09 PM »
Thanks, voile looks like the best option.  One quick google resulted in a ton of organic cotton voile for sale by the yard.  Now I need to learn to sew.... Thanks guys

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: BIAB Natural Bags?
« on: December 30, 2013, 03:26:38 AM »
Know anyone who sews? Make your own out of voile. I have a voile bag that my mom made me that I used for the occasional brew in a bag and it works great.

Are pillow cases and voile porous enough to get the job done?  This is something I'd like to look into..Like I mentioned I've only used the nylon bags, and there are obvious gaps in the mesh on those...

General Homebrew Discussion / BIAB Natural Bags?
« on: December 30, 2013, 02:29:26 AM »
I've been doing BIAB for about 2 years now.  I've been using the nylon bags from LHBS, which claim they are food safe, and I believe they are.. I'm just curious if there is anything out there that isn't nylon, synthetic, and/or plastic..  I've seen organic hop bags on organic brew sites, but they aren't big enough for my grain nor am I sure they'd be the proper strength for a 15lb bag of wet grain.

Have any other BIABers out there tried looking into natural organic brew bags, or know of a site to find them? I'd be OK with making my own, I just don't know where or what type of mesh fabric/material I'd need.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Harvesting a Roeselare Blend?
« on: December 22, 2013, 03:07:03 PM »
I have a sour raspberry that I used the wyeast3763 Roeselare Blend on, and I've got about 6 bottles left.  Before I finish them off I'd like to harvest the yeast at the bottom of the bottles.  I've heard that its not ideal to harvest this particular blend of wyeast (maybe all sours for all I know..). I'm not too sure if this is true or not, so I thought I'd ask before I dive in. Any input would be appreciated.
You will end up with different ratio of brewers yeast, Brett, and bacteria. The end product will be different.

True, but different doesn't necessarily mean worse, so that's no reason not to try it.

As far as harvesting sours go, I'd argue that those are actually the types of beers where the dregs are harvested the most by homebrewers. I haven't used Roselaire yet, but I've harvested bugs from quite a few commercial sours. If you like brewing sours, then harvesting dregs is an important skill to learn.

Kyle has a great post on his blog on how to wake up your bottle dregs.

You're right it will absolutely be different.  This is something i really didn't think about, I just assumed I'm getting the exact same yeast I put into it.  Could be for the best though.. as mentioned. 

Also, thanks for the link that looks fantastic.  What do you suggest for gravity of starter wort? Is it lower for dregs, 1.020?  He says add 1/2" but I don't see the Gravity.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Harvesting a Roeselare Blend?
« on: December 22, 2013, 03:00:00 PM »
How long has the beer been aged?  The longer the time, I think the more it favors the bacteria over the yeasts.  You might add another Sacch yeast when you repitch.

There's nothing particularly repeatable about brewing sours, I kind of like that.

It's been in the bottles for about 6+ months. I don't have a clue how long I had it in the secondary... but it was a 'long' time. Thanks for the advice.

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7