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Messages - bboy9000

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Commercial Beer Reviews / Sierra Nevada Celebration 2016
« on: January 01, 2017, 07:37:46 PM »
Yeah sorry, I've been turning into one of those people who inserts random annoying comments and gets the thread off-topic.  Maybe subconsciously I'm trying to get my post count up.

Yeah I've had Celebration.  Seems like a Red IPA.  Similar to Boulevard Nutcracker Ale. 

Not sure how unpopular these opinions are but here's an attempt:

1.  Extract beer can be as good and better than all-grain beer.

2.  Session IPA is really APA.

When I say Belgian, I mean Trappist. And Duvel. Plus St. Bernardus. I don't dig regional Belgian beers, or Lambic, etc.

I think there needs to be a clear dividing line. I'm trying to get better about prefacing with Trappist or Monastic.

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What do you think of Goliath?
Brasserie des geańts.

I've never had it but it says it's all malt and Amber colored so I doubt I'd be interested.
I make a great Belgian Pale Ale.  All malt and amber colored too.

Ingredients / Re: Hop addition time for maximum flavor?
« on: January 01, 2017, 07:05:52 PM »
Question about hop utilization, as I've seen varied data: what time during the boil utilizes the most flavor, forgetting bitterness and aroma. I've seen at the 10 minute addition, and I've seen 20. Anyone have any insight/data/experience with this?

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Another vote for flameout / whirlpool.  Flavor and aroma are really one and the same thing.  In effect your nasal passage sniffs the beer as it slides down your throat.
Jim warned you!

Ingredients / Re: Hop addition time for maximum flavor?
« on: January 01, 2017, 09:22:25 AM »
^Use more hops.  IMO a pale ale can easily use more.  I also didn't get much flavor from Azacca and I used 4oz, 2oz at 10 or 15 and 2 at KO.  I likely won't use Azacca again.  Nothing beats cascade in a pale ale.

Ingredients / Re: Hop addition time for maximum flavor?
« on: January 01, 2017, 09:03:11 AM »
I like hop bursting or a modified version of it for maximum flavor.  For IPA I do a 60 minute addition, usually Magnum.  The rest of the hops are added in the last 15 minutes, whirlpool and dry hopped.  I dry hop for 2-3 days in my primary FV after fermentation is complete.  I then rack to secondary to leave some of the hop trub behind or else it clogs my keg and makes the beer look, dare I say, juicy.

For APA I skip the the bittering addition and I rarely dry hop.

There are plenty of articles in Zymurgy on hops and hop techniques so check them out.

All Grain Brewing / Low Oxygen Conclusions?
« on: January 01, 2017, 02:48:52 AM »
When I taste my grains before mashing often visualize pouring milk on them and having breakfast.  I actually did one time and it was awesome.  The fresh grain taste is what my favorite German lagers have.  I'd take the Cheerios comment as a compliment.  Nice job.

All Grain Brewing / Excerpts from DeClerck's "A Textbook of Brewing"
« on: December 31, 2016, 08:20:47 PM »
But I'm just a dude, man.
Fixed it for you

I don't dig beers over 10% alcohol. I have a few favorites that happen to exceed that but as a general rule I prefer less than 9% with 10% as a max.

I just can't see a legitimate reason to have beers that are 12% and above.

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Came to say pretty much this. I just don't do big beers, I'd rather 5 pints of an easy drinking Pilsner or Pale Ale than 2 of a 9% something or other.

+2.  I wonder if big beers are more popular with newer or younger beer drinkers.  IMO there is a time for a big beer like in the dead of winter, after dinner, sharing with friends.  I'd much rather have a few pints of bitter or a liter of helles.

I like to listen to extremely complex progressive rock/metal when I brew. It's a method to make the final beer undeniably better.

Dream Theater?  Steve Hackett?
Love Dream Theater.  Also some Yes, Rush, Primus, King Crimson and Umphrey's McGee (maybe more jam band but they have some prog in there).

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Help! Leaks in CO2 Line from Regulator to Keg.
« on: December 31, 2016, 09:34:06 AM »
I have an idea. Instead of repairing the leak, buy some new hose and make a new line with new fittings. This looks easier than running down a leak in an old line. What parts do I need?
I use 5/16 gas line and a stainless steel screw clamp.  If you have a good local homebrew shop they can tell you what you need.

Unpopular opinions, eh?  I'm hip...

I am a malt-head (as opposed to a hophead).  I like IPA just fine, but what I really love is all the lagers, Scottish ales, etc.

I can taste a nasty twang in your extract beer every time.  If you must use extract, then partial mash is way better, and all-grain is best.

I don't think rye tastes spicy, not in the slightest.  It's bready and a bit earthy, but no spice.  Any spice is associated with caraway or choice of spicy hops.

Carapils is worthless.  I've been saying this looooooooooooooong before the existence of the recent xBmt.

American commercial breweries just really don't know how to make good Marzens, or don't care.  I think I might be done tasting American versions, life is too short and it just doesn't pay.

Almost every gose on the market is way too effing salty to be enjoyable.  If you can taste the salt, you did it wrong.

Session IPA, Black IPA, Brown IPA, and Purple IPA are all terms that need not exist.

Homegrown hops are better for bittering than for flavor or aroma.  Learn what your average alpha acid is through trial and error, like in the old days before the term "alpha acid" existed.   :o

You don't need to rehydrate your dry yeast.  It's one of the big advantages of dry.  I know Denny agrees, but many do not, that's why I include this as an "unpopular" opinion.

Glass fermenters are better than plastic buckets.  There, I said it, again.  Glass is dangerous, yes.  Do be very careful with your big heavy glass carboys.  Fortunately, stainless would also be fine.

If you value your time and just want to get your brew day over with, then you are wasting a lot of time if you mash any longer than 40 minutes, and probably about the same for boil time as well.  Could save some energy costs there too.

Step mashes are probably worthless.  More experiments are a good idea but I'll probably not bother.  When in doubt, just mash at 150 F for 40 minutes.  You'll get very good beer with this mash "schedule".  And...

If the temperature falls a few degrees during the mash, who cares.  It'll be fine.  I don't insulate.

It might not be worthwhile to chase high efficiency >85%.  I finally ran one blind triangle efficiency experiment but need to run more as the results still were not very clear.

I only brew 1.7 gallons typically.  There are numerous advantages to doing so.  5 gallons is too much for many people.  I also brew on the stovetop, never did anything else and don't own a propane burner.  I am ridiculed endlessly by my "friends" for being "the small batch on the stove guy".  Whatever.  Do what you like.

And... that about does it, for right now.   ;D
Now that's a mic drop

Kegging and Bottling / Help! Leaks in CO2 Line from Regulator to Keg.
« on: December 30, 2016, 03:23:51 PM »
I never use the washer and I don't have any leaks.

OP, are you using a wrench to tighten?  IME, it has to be "tool tight."

If the washer and wrench doesn't solve the problem try taking it apart and use teflon plumber's tape on the threads before putting it back together.

I've seen some pretty cheap regulators so you may just have a bad one that needs replaced.

EDIT:  just saw your comment about the tape.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Sierra Nevada Celebration 2016
« on: December 30, 2016, 01:08:41 PM »

Edit - this says Pale and wheat malts. Since pale malt is first, there would be more of it.

If you have anything else, please post.

I do recall an early version was said to be pale and wheat and then I recall reading 100% wheat.  The only source of recollection is something I (thought) I read from Firestone.

It's possible all versions contain pale and wheat.  The Luponic malt bill has consistently reaffirmed my preference for using a variety of malts beyond base.
The reason I am interested is that a 100% wheat malt beer is a pain to mash and lauter. It can be done in a production brewery, but even the Germans use barley for a little less than half of the grist.

It's certainly possible the beer is not 100% wheat.  Like I said before, I do recall at least one of the early versions was disclosed as pale and wheat.  The reason I said 100% wheat is due to the memory of reading about it and it seemed unusual.  It's possible I read an erroneous Firestone blog entry.  It's possible my memory is incorrect.  It's possible I'm typing this in your basement right now.   
You may or may not be in my basement. If I go down there to look, will my cat be dead?
Are you conducting physics experiments in your basement again?

The Pub / Re: Horrible beer products
« on: December 30, 2016, 08:59:17 AM »
I'd be ok with an extract kit. I'd for sure ditch the yeast, but otherwise I'd give it a go.
Indeed. I bought a Mr Beer kit on post-Christmas clearance a year or two ago just for the fermenter. The kit made an enjoyable beer with a yeast upgrade and a bit of CaraHell steeped/late hops added in.
Those little Mr. Beer fermentors are awesome.  Now if we can just figure out a use for the corksicle and the 5.2...paperweights?

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