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Messages - santoch

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: "Rack on to" secondary
« on: January 31, 2017, 08:01:21 PM »
Be sure to purge the vessel with CO2 first and avoid splashing during the transfer to help your beer age better.
And remember that its most important that your fermentation is already complete in the primary.  There are old directions that basically say to rack after only a week.  Give the beer the time it needs to finish up, then rack it to the new vessel over the top of the spices.


Beer Travel / Re: Seattle
« on: January 31, 2017, 07:46:51 PM »
(I'm going to give you a few pointers to breweries that I frequent because I know the brewers personally and am a fan of their beers).

+1 to Holy Mountain.  Colin is brewing some phenomenal beer.  Most of what he has on tap are various Saisons with varing strains of Brett. I think Holy Mountain is probably the best brewery in the state right now.

I agree with going to Ballard.  Be sure to hit Lucky Envelope in Ballard, too. Fellow homebrewer-turned-pro Barry Chan's ENIAC IPA took Gold last year at the Washington Beer Awards.  That is no small feat, believe me.  From there, you are in walking distance to a bunch like Stoup Brewing.  Fremont is not far, either. (BTW, there's a distillery about a block from Brouwer's, which is not a brewery, but is one of the best Belgian Beer Bars in the world).

There's another Nano called Outer Planet up on Capital Hill. It's a small brewery and Jim is putting out some great beer.  He's one of the home brewers from my club that recently turned pro.

If you are on the East Side, there are a bunch of breweries founded by other members of my club that went pro.  In Redmond, you have Postdoc (Tom Schmidlin's place), and HiFi (John, Joe, & Ryan), which is a block from Black Raven (not from my club), which is another phenomenal brewery. In Factoria/Newcastle is Resonate (Mike)  Another cool thing about Resonate is that they are a pizza pub/brew pub.  They ferment the dough for 3 days before it goes into the wood fired oven.  It's simply awesome pizza, and the beer is great too.


Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Best of Craft 2017
« on: January 30, 2017, 11:37:30 PM »
Great seeing you again Jim-

I had a great time.  Lots of good beers and it was good to see some old friends again and make new ones.  I was lucky and got to judge Berliner Weiss (among others) with Shilpi from Logsdon's Farmhouse Ales. What an incredible palate he has!  I learned a TON from him and we had a great time. Now I'm finding Cap'n Crunch or Cheerios in nearly every sour I taste. (Google Tetrahydropyridine aka THP)

Ref Postdoc, I'm lucky to see Tom quite often.  Postdoc is literally 1 block off the route I take home from work every day.  He's doing well and his brewery is kicking butt.


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop addition times to adjust for IBU's
« on: January 30, 2017, 11:17:59 PM »
I'll raise my hand and say that yes, I will move a 60 min addition to 65 or 55 if it will make my numbers hit a little better.  I use the "go with the same weights after 20 then adjust the bittering addition to hit the IBUs" method.  Seems to work for me.

I do this from the simple, naive standpoint of "when my SW says its hitting this bitterness level, and I like/want more/want less", then I will hit that number again next time, or adjust my additions until I do like it.  Is that the "true" number? Who cares?  The important thing to me is its a guidepost that I can use so I can hit the levels I want to hit in the future.  If I can repeat, or adjust with reasonable certainty, I'm happy.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Technique Help - Dark Grains at Vorlauf
« on: January 30, 2017, 06:54:38 PM »
Having said that I've used the late-addition technique but I've been persuaded by this forum to not do so and instead control mash pH.

While I agree that getting the pH in the correct range for the beer being brewed, the technique of holding the roast until the end of the mash does have its place. It's a great technique for styles where you want more color and less of the roast's flavor. It's perfect for Schwartzbier and Dunkel. It might be OK in a Mild if your goal is to avoid an overly roasty beer.

In beers that you do want to be roasty, you will probably need to boost the roast percentage beyond a typically brewed recipe since the roast notes will be lessened.


Next time try adding a tsp of Gypsum to your boil, esp. since you used distilled water.
It will help the hops to pop.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Newb Mistake
« on: January 25, 2017, 10:20:12 PM »
That probably is too big, but taste it and don't toss it until you are sure you couldn't drink it or you've fermented it all the way out and aged it a little.  Get started on your next batch, though.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Old bottles
« on: January 25, 2017, 10:17:34 PM »
Something old like that, I'd hit with good old bleach too (just NOT as the last thing before bottling). Maybe even consider alternating oxyclean and bleach 2x each.  Nothing will survive that.  40 yrs of germ buildup needs a heavy hand, IMO, and bleach is a cheap way to both clean and kill everything.  Just be really sure to rinse  every bit of the bleach out when you are done and hit it with your sanitizer.

The bottles will be great, though.  Those old bottles were very thick.  All the old movies where the guy breaks the bottle on his head in a bar fight are complete BS.  You'd get killed trying that and the bottle wouldn't budge.

Given money is no object:

German Pilsner/Helles rotator
Hoppy American Blonde
Bavarian Hefeweizen
Mild/Irish Red/Best Bitter Rotator
Scottish 80/-
Dunkel/Vienna/Marzen rotator
American Brown
Rotating Hop Am. Pale Ale
Rotating Hop Am. IPA
Flanders Red/Flanders Brown rotator
Belgian Golden Strong / Belgian Dark Strong rotator
Baltic Porter
Oatmeal Stout/American Stout rotator
English Barleywine / American Barleywine rotator
Bourbon Barrel RIS

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Newb Mistake
« on: January 25, 2017, 09:17:01 PM »
I'm also wondering if it will be "maybe not as bad as first thought", especially in a Scottish ale.
How big is the scorch mark?  Size of a dime?  A quarter?  Half the bottom of the pot?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Historical Beer Category - Heather Ale
« on: January 25, 2017, 09:07:05 PM »
The judges misjudged your beer by requiring it to have hop character.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


The Pub / Re: Songs you never want to hear again.
« on: January 22, 2017, 04:53:46 PM »
Bob Segar's Turn the Page would simply not be the same without that sax.
Oh you've not heard my drunken karaoke version where I mimic the sax solo

Wah waaaa wa wa waaaa


The Pub / Re: Songs you never want to hear again.
« on: January 22, 2017, 04:32:28 PM »
Bob Segar's Turn the Page would simply not be the same without that sax.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NHC competition
« on: January 22, 2017, 04:18:19 PM »
The reason I suggest Other Historical instead of Specialty for your Sticke Altbier is because the Specialty Category is always a huge category.  The sheer number of entries in that category puts you at a disadvantage.  If you can enter in a smaller category, its to your advantage to do so.  Additionally, Specialty draws all kinds of "flashy" styles, like spice/fruit/wood combinations, so standing out amongst the competition with a "vanilla" style becomes an issue as well.

2017 NHC Seattle Region Judge Director

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NHC competition
« on: January 20, 2017, 08:20:45 PM »
Hi Jim-

I would put it in whatever category number Category 26 M (BJCP cat 27) Other Historical Beer turns into this year (I hear the category numbers might shift around a little bit this year compared to last year due to breaking out a couple bigger categories into their own smaller ones).

Be sure to include a very good description of it during registration so that the judges understand that it is essentially an Alt-Bock or Imperial Altbier.


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