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Messages - santoch

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31
It sounds like everything will be fine
Congrats on your first batch!

32
The Pub / Re: Home sound system
« on: April 24, 2016, 07:10:38 PM »
I had a couple hundred LPs back in the day.  I was in the Army, and my roommate (also in the Army) was transferring to Germany.   The movers came and packed all my LPs with his.
Then, on the boat over to Germany, they all melted.  This was when CDs started coming out anyways, so I wasn't all that upset.

33
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rube Goldberg Part Two
« on: April 24, 2016, 06:37:53 PM »
See, Told you it was a good beer.  :D
Congrats!

34
The other day, Gordon made the following post on the BJCP forum.  I thought many more folks would find it informative than just the closed judge's forum, so I asked for his permission to repost it out here "in the wild" (pun intended)   :-).

Hope this helps to clarify category selection in these instances.
Steve

Quote from: Gordon Strong
Several people have been confused by the Entry Instructions in Style 29A (Fruit Beer) in the 2015 BJCP Style Guidelines. Those instructions say:

Quote from: Style 29A (Fruit Beer)
    The entrant must specify a base style, but the declared style does not have to be a Classic Style. The entrant must specify the type(s) of fruit used. Soured fruit beers that aren't lambics should be entered in the American Wild Ale category.


This leads to questions like, "I have a fruited Berliner Weisse, does that mean it goes into 28C (Wild Specialty Beer)?"

The short answer is No. A fruited Berliner Weisse is a 29A Fruit Beer.

From the Introduction to Specialty-Type Beer preamble:

Quote from: Introduction to Specialty-Type Beer preamble
    Specialty-Type Beer is a broad term used to refer to the styles described in Categories 28 through 34. They are different from what we call Classic Styles that are represented by Categories 1 through 27. The Classic Styles stand alone and can be fully described in a standard BJCP style description. Specialty-Type Beers involve some form of transformation of either a Classic Style or another base beer, either through adding additional ingredients, or handling the beer differently using an alternative process.


From the Category 29 Fruit Beer preamble:

Quote from: Category 29 Fruit Beer preamble
    The Fruit Beer category is for beer made with any fruit or combination of fruit under the definition...


So you apply those two statements, then any specific instructions in the style. Berliner Weisse is a Classic Style (style 23A), so it is a Classic Style that is transformed with the addition of fruit.

The statement about lambics is the exception to the rule, not the rule itself. The reason for this statement is that there is a 23F Fruit Lambic style, and that lambics with fruit should be entered there, not in 29A Fruit Beer.

The statement about soured fruit beers is for non-Classic Style beers. So if a beer without a base style is soured and contains fruit, that is what the 28C Wild Specialty Beer is designed to describe (among other things).

The statement about the declared base style not having to be a Classic Style is for beers with an actual style. For example, a raspberry porter can be entered there. The beer doesn't have to be an American Porter or an English Porter, just have general porter-like qualities. For a Wild Specialty Beer, the base style is less important and might not even exist. That's why a general description of the beer is all that is requested.

The point that seems to be confusing to people is that some Classic Styles happen to be sour. This is an irrelevant point for entering in the Fruit Beer style. Yes, Berliner Weisse is sour. So is Gose, and several other styles. Fruited versions of these beers go into the Fruit Beer style since the base beer is a Classic Style.

We understand how this can be confusing to people, so we will look to clarify the instructions in future releases of the guidelines. However, try to keep in mind that there are no tricks in the guidelines. Use reasonable judgment and try not to cherry-pick individual sentences and give them undue weight. In this case, a beer with fruit is indeed a Fruit Beer.

35
+2 to everything they said.  You'll actually get a cleaner beer out of it, provided fermentation is already complete.

36
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Irony of ironies?
« on: April 22, 2016, 03:00:34 PM »
Was the flavor pillowy or astringent?  :D


37
Welcome-

Mr. Beer is the Crack Cocaine of homebrewing.  I started with a Mr. Beer kit for Christmas from my sister in law back in 2002.  My wife is still pissed off at her for creating a monster.
Many of us started on Mr. Beer kits before moving on.

1) What kind of prehopped kit is it?  They gave you Fuggles, so I'm guessing a Brown Ale or English Bitter?
2) Do they still use "Booster" or do they now go with all real extract?

If they tell you to use the Booster, just don't.  Get another can of pale unhopped extract and use that instead.  Or find a homebrew shop near you and pick up some dry malt extract.  You can measure that out to the exact weight you want.

I would also suggest you pre-boil the water you will top off with and cool it back down.  The reason is that straight tap water contains chlorine which causes chlorophenolic off flavors. Chlorophenols taste like chloraseptic or other medicines and are really nasty.  It doesn't take much chlorine for it to become pronounced.  Pre-boiling all of your water will drive off the chlorine.  If your water system uses chloramine, then your best bet is to go to your homebrew store and buy a small pack of Campden tablets.  1 aspirin-sized pill is enough to treat 20 gallons of water.  You only need to treat about 3 gallons, so break those tablets up into half then half again and add it to your water as you pre-boil it.  This will remove all chlorine or chloramine and you'll not have a problem.

You should rehydrate your yeast in plain (pre-boiled) water before pitching it into your wort.  Make sure to aerate the heck out of it before pitching.

Temperature is a very important thing.  You want to pitch into COOL wort, not hot wort.
The closer to 60F you can get it, the better.  You will get more oxygen dissolved into the wort and better yeast health, giving a better fermentation.   Pitching warm deprives the yeast of oxygen, depleting growth. The yeast are more prone to produce fruity esters when warm (and stressed by lack of cell count due to lack of oxygen).

Sanitation is key.  You need to sanitize all of your equipment and bottles very well to ensure that no microbes will take hold.  Anything that touches your beer after the cool-down MUST be sanitized.  And remember that if it's not clean, it can't be sanitized.

Ask if you have questions.  You are guaranteed to get a quick answer on this board.
Hope this helps-

38
Homebrew Competitions / Re: NHC Scoring and Awards
« on: April 21, 2016, 08:36:24 AM »
Judge pool size is one issue.
Getting the organizers is another.  We've had the same small handful of people pass those roles up here in Seattle for the last 7 or 8 years.  These tend to be the same people who run the local comps.  Frankly, those who have been doing it year after year get burnt out and need someone else to step up.

39
The Pub / Re: Cool gift from my brother
« on: April 20, 2016, 04:05:48 PM »
That's awesome.  I wish I could craft things like that.  I have all the ideas in the world, then the reality of what I make hits, and, well...


40
Homebrew Competitions / Re: NHC Scoring and Awards
« on: April 20, 2016, 07:55:46 AM »
I agree.  The entry counts are so low that there should be a separate limit, and the Ninkasi should be beer only.
Maybe have a separate Ninkasi for mead and cider.

41
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Suggestions for first time brew?
« on: April 19, 2016, 04:29:36 PM »
if you are boiling 5 gallon batches, then 6 gallon pot is too small.  You will eventually want to go all grain and you will spend the money all over again for a bigger pot.
Do yourself a favor and get as big a pot as you can find now, so you don't have to spend the money twice.

42
All Grain Brewing / Re: First lager!
« on: April 17, 2016, 12:51:36 PM »
Dunkels is a great choice too.

43
All Grain Brewing / Re: First lager!
« on: April 17, 2016, 07:36:27 AM »
I know that you have decided on a Pils for this first lager, and that's fine.  I'd throw out as alternatives for folks that are contemplating their first lager, try a Vienna Lager, a Marzen, or a Schwarzbier. This is from the standpoint of having a little bit more room for small flaws.  You'll get quick turnaround and a tasty beer, even if there are some small issues.

44
All Grain Brewing / Re: Dry hopping
« on: April 11, 2016, 05:29:51 PM »
If you actually were to calculate the surface area of pellets vs. the surface are of whole flowers, the flowers have more surface area by orders of magnitude.

45
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: most common off-flavors
« on: April 11, 2016, 01:47:07 PM »
This is what I run into most often, in no particular order

Sulphury
Phenolic
Paper/cardboard oxidation
Diacetyl
Solventy
DMS
Acidic
Grassy
Estery(too much for the style)

[EDIT - mouthfeel]
Astringent mouthfeel (not flavor nor aroma)
Hot alcohol
over/under carbonation

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