Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - yso191

Pages: 1 ... 18 19 [20] 21 22 ... 78
286
All Grain Brewing / Re: Critique my IPA recipe
« on: December 11, 2014, 09:04:46 AM »
You're becoming quite the hop guy steve. Thats a good thing. I'll have to try your method once I get through lager season. Maybe a real simple IPA grain bill with a neutral 60 min of about 30% of the total ibus. Then the rest at 175. How long do you suggest that rest? 15 min? 30?

I love hops. 
If I read your question correctly you are asking about the IBU contribution of a whirlpool addition.  My assumption is that at ~175* there isn't much isomerization going on.  So I go for all of my IBU's in my 60 minute addition.  Beersmith however calculates that my whirlpool additions of 3 oz. each of Amarillo and Cascade will add about 50 IBU.  I think the software assumes a higher temperature.

But I've got to say, I'm not cautious at all in this regard when dealing with AIPA's.  The one I am brewing tomorrow is calculated to have 136 IBU.  This is typical, and I have yet to have one I thought was too bitter.  But I watch my pH and use a quality bittering hop (usually CTZ).

287
All Grain Brewing / Re: Critique my IPA recipe
« on: December 11, 2014, 12:19:30 AM »
I sure don't see anything wrong with it.  I like your grain bill and your hop combo.

*If it were me* I would add 2 more ounces to the dry hop.  I typically use one ounce per gallon - and I don't in any way think that is too much, but one has to stop somewhere.  I'm also not convinced of the value of spreading out hop additions.  I've gone to three: a 60 minute addition for all the bittering, a whirlpool addition for flavor and aroma, and dry hopping for aroma and flavor.  My thinking is that one only gets 2 things from hops: alpha acids and oils.  The best way to get the AA is with a 60 minute addition.  The best way to get oils is at ~175* and below because oils boil off at very low temperatures compared to water/wort.

But that is me.  What you have described above is not wrong.  I just do it differently for the reasons stated.  As so many say here regularly, try it both ways to see which works best for you!

288
Commercial Beer Reviews / Best of the Northwest 2014
« on: December 09, 2014, 10:01:38 AM »
I guess this is where this belongs...

Anyway, here is the annual list of Best of the Northwest brews.  Unlike a lot of this type of list, it is not about cult status or something that one simply cannot get.  That, and to the degree that I have tasted these beers I generally agree with him.

So here you go: http://thepourfool.com/2014/12/09/best-of-the-northwest-2014-breakout-breweries-break-the-mold/

289
Yeast and Fermentation / Gravity for 1 pack dry yeast?
« on: December 08, 2014, 03:39:45 PM »
I am on a kick experimenting with dry yeast.  Part of my experiment is to just dump the pack into the wort rather than pre-hydrating it.  I know I will lose some yeast cells doing it this way, but If I'm going to prep yeast I'll do a yeast starter.  To me the advantage of dry yeast is that it is quick (well, and cheaper).

My question is: at what gravity level does under pitching become a concern?  My next brew is an AIPA with an OG of 1.058.  Will one pack do, or should I add a portion of a second?  In case it matters the yeast in question is US-05.

290
Equipment and Software / Re: Washing Mash Tun/ Kettles
« on: December 07, 2014, 04:20:42 PM »
Yes, I use a hose outside.  It gets pretty cold this time of year.

291
Equipment and Software / Mash Tun Jacket
« on: December 05, 2014, 08:53:26 PM »
I have three brews on my new Blichmann kettles, a 10 gallon BK and 15 gallon MT.  It was obvious from the first brew that keeping the mash temp up was going to be an issue.  The first one I had to add some of the sparge water to keep it up.  The second one I added that silver bubble insulation which did very little.  The third brew I added a thick blanket with a heating pad on top of the lid - that finally did the trick.

Being kind of OCD about things looking good, I started doing research.  I found Canvas Keg Jackets online at a place called Rapids (http://rapidswholesale.com/beer-supplies-draft-beer-equipment/party-picnic-keg-pumps-and-coolers/keg-cooling-jackets-and-blankets/brown-canvas-keg-jacket.html) for just under $50 delivered.  It is very thick and heavy duty.

I was pleasantly surprised that the thing fit over the handles & sight tube of the MT!  I'll have to cut a slit for the thermometer and valve, but that is minor.  There is even an opening on top (for the tap) so I can run the cord from the heating pad out of that.  Here it is:


292
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Doc Brown Ale Recipe/process critique
« on: December 05, 2014, 10:40:27 AM »
What yeast did you use?  That's probably the biggest factor.  Also have you ever checked or calibrated your mash thermometer?  You might be mashing hotter than you thought and killed some enzymes.

Yeah, in one shot on the video with grain in the wort, it looked like it was starting to boil.  Sure to undo some enzymes.

293
Beer Travel / Re: Best app for finding good beer places
« on: December 04, 2014, 06:21:53 PM »
I use Untappd for finding breweries.  I have only used it in the PNW though I assume it works as well elsewhere.

294
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Icezilla SPAM?
« on: December 03, 2014, 02:52:02 PM »
I am glad to say I've never heard of it.

296
Equipment and Software / Re: Insulated stainless mash tun
« on: November 29, 2014, 09:24:00 AM »
Yeah, I was concerned about that.  What I think I'll do is put the heating pad on top of the lid with a blanket over it.  I did use the foil bubble wrap - one layer anyway.  More can only help.

297
Equipment and Software / Re: Grain Mill
« on: November 28, 2014, 01:12:05 PM »
Yeah, I actually sent two Captain Crushes back.  Neither one worked worth a hoot.  It could have been just an odd coincidence that I got two semi-functional ones in a row, but I was done trying.  The first one developed a screeching noise (after only 4-5 batches) that was so bad dogs in the neighborhood howled.  The second one would just spin the driven roller but never pull grain - no matter how I adjusted it. 

298
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How important is it to decant the starter?
« on: November 27, 2014, 08:50:00 PM »
It's not critical in that you are not going to spoil a batch of beer.  But you are putting a liter of bad tasting beer into what you hope is good tasting beer.  It takes no time to decant and it's not hard, so no reason not to.

The proof is in the starter.  Take a taste next time then ask yourself if you want that flavor in your beer.

299
Equipment and Software / Re: Insulated stainless mash tun
« on: November 26, 2014, 01:32:06 PM »
My meager insulation did not do the trick.  FWIW in this conversation, I have always preheated the MT.

My next strategy is to put a heating pad against the outer wall of the MT, underneath the insulation.  Hopefully that will work.

300
Equipment and Software / Re: Refractometer Calibration
« on: November 26, 2014, 10:57:01 AM »
+1 to taking your preboil sample after reaching a steady boil to get uniform mixing. Steve, I saw that your measurements were 1.041, 1.043, and 1.055. Let's throw out the 1.041 since it was taken before reaching boil.  How close together time wise were the last two taken ? Evaporation would obviously concentrate the boil and increase your readings. I just ask because on my system my preboil (on a 60 minute boil) is usually ~ 12 pts lower than my post boil OG, the difference between your last 2 readings.

The first was 1.032 pre-boil, then the post-start-of-boil two were 1.043 & 1.055.  The later two were maybe 10 minutes apart because I wanted to let the samples cool prior to testing.

I'll probably keep using it to see if I can establish a pattern.

Pages: 1 ... 18 19 [20] 21 22 ... 78