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Messages - yso191

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496
Beer Recipes / Re: Hops to pair with trois
« on: February 13, 2015, 05:12:34 PM »
I did a Black IPA with Brett trois earlier this year.  I used Centennial, Amarillo and Citra.  It turned out pretty good, but I would up the flavor/Aroma hops as they were subdued from what I like.  here is what I did:

2.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 10.0 min
2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 10.0 min
2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 14.0 Days
2.00 oz Amarillo [8.50 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days

497
The Pub / Re: Will beer cans be the "Food Babe's" next target?
« on: February 12, 2015, 09:15:57 AM »
I don't know about the science.  I think Mother Earth News often takes a Chicken Little approach to the latest food scare without serious unbiased investigation. 

That being said, I don't like canned beer.  It does not taste the same as bottled beer.  Don't ask me why or how, I am just stating my impression.

498
Ingredients / Re: Pellet vs. Leaf Hops
« on: February 12, 2015, 08:58:22 AM »
I don't know if things have changed since Yakima Chief and Hop Union merged, but I know the recent operations manager at Hop Union before the merge.  He was working hard to get ALL the hop pelletizing done by the end of January specifically because of the freshness issue.  (He now works for BSG here in the valley).

As you know different hop varieties are harvested at different times in the season, so that is what largely determines when a hop gets pelletized.  What I'm not sure of is whether AA content determines when in the pelletizing schedule a hop gets done.  I wonder at this because high AA hops are extremely flammable.  A couple of years ago a hop warehouse burned because they were not used to the unique handling necessary for very high AA hops.

499
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop Teas and other Hoppy techniques
« on: February 12, 2015, 08:47:07 AM »
I also am a proponent of a single 60 minute bittering charge and a single 170* hop stand.  One only gets 2 things from hops: Alpha Acids and oils.  A full 60 minute boil is the most efficient way to get AA into your beer.  Hop oils boil at very low temperatures compared to wort, so lower is better, but below 170* risks infection, so...  For me those are the only two additions.

Can one get a different hop flavor profile by doing multiple hop additions late in the boil?  Yes, but I'd argue that is the result of specific hop oils leaving your wort, changing the mix.  I'd sooner not add hops than just see the their oils boil off like DMS.

500
Homebrewer Bios / Re: Brewer Bio: flbrewer
« on: February 11, 2015, 06:46:11 PM »
Shorts and T-shirt in February  :'(.  I'm jealous.   Nice brewing setup!  And good to put a face with the screen name.

501
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Just started a new arrogant bastard ipa clone
« on: February 11, 2015, 12:51:53 PM »
Since Arrogant Bastard is a pretty hefty beer ABV wise, I would say leave it in your fermentation vessel at least two weeks, maybe more.  You can still test final gravity regardless of the original gravity though.  I assume you bought a kit - what final gravity did it say you should end up with? 

As mentioned above, the only transfer I would do is to the bottling bucket which would have the corn sugar in it so that the yeast will have something to eat to provide the carbonation in the bottle.  I would also say that two weeks in the bottle is a minimum, but a good time to open one to see how they are carbing up.

I have never bottled out of a bucket (When I bottle it is out of a keg), so maybe someone else can chime in to describe the best way to do that.

502
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Just started a new arrogant bastard ipa clone
« on: February 10, 2015, 10:13:21 PM »
I also got the impression that you are intending to transfer to a carboy for 'Secondary fermentation.'  While you certainly can do this, it is totally not necessary and will just may expose your beer to oxygen which will may introduce staling.  I never transfer to a second vessel for this reason.  I go right from the primary fermentation vessel to the keg or bottles.

I fixed it for you. :)

Hat tip to the guy who is correct.

503
Kegging and Bottling / Re: What gives with my beer fridge
« on: February 10, 2015, 10:11:48 PM »
I'm sure there is a formula driven answer, but what I do is this:  First set the temperature you want to serve your beer at.  Then set the psi on your regulator to give you the right volumes of CO2 for the beer at that temperature.  Finally, start with 8-10 feet of beer line.  If it is too slow cut 6" at a time until it flows right.

But make sure the first two variables are stable before cutting anything.

I think my kegerator is set at 42*, 10 psi, and 8 foot lines.  That gives me a carbonation level that fits most beers.

504
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Just started a new arrogant bastard ipa clone
« on: February 10, 2015, 06:00:08 PM »
Everything is OK in homebrewing.  But I wouldn't open it unless necessary.  The concern is about introducing oxygen and wild yeasts and bacteria riding on airborne dust particles. 

It is hard to be patient on your first few brews, but patience is very good for the beer.

And no problem being new to this.  Everyone on here was once.  Ask away.  I also encourage you to read widely here and elsewhere.

505
That conversation is already in progress here: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=21991.0

Join in!

506
Pimp My System / Re: Redbird Brewhouse - There's Always a Project
« on: February 10, 2015, 05:18:28 PM »
Amanda,

I just ordered the Power Grinder motor from All American Ale Works.  I'm curious how you resolved the keyway issue.  Which solution did you go with?  I'm also interested in any other tips you might have as I puzzle through piecing this together.  In case it matters I'll be connecting this to a Schmidling (JSP) maltmill.

507
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Just started a new arrogant bastard ipa clone
« on: February 10, 2015, 05:01:02 PM »
Bubbling is not a good indicator of when fermentation is done.  Do you have a hydrometer so you can measure the gravity?  If so, your beer is done if the gravity is constant for 3 days.  Remember there is no rush.  It won't hurt your beer to leave it right where it is for a month or longer. 

Also remember that the yeast will need time to clean up unwanted fermentation by-products after primary fermentation is done, but just a day or two should do it.  If in doubt just be patient.

I also got the impression that you are intending to transfer to a carboy for 'Secondary fermentation.'  While you certainly can do this, it is totally not necessary and will just expose your beer to oxygen which will introduce staling.  I never transfer to a second vessel for this reason.  I go right from the primary fermentation vessel to the keg or bottles.

508
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mitch Steele Comments
« on: February 10, 2015, 01:23:07 PM »
Perhaps I'm confusing flocculation with another term, but I thought you generally raised fermentation temps to clean up.

That is the case.  raising the temperature will keep the yeast active which will lead to cleaning up fermentation by-products that you don't want in your finished beer.  It is after this that the temperature is dropped.
A quick swing downward in temperature will put the yeast to sleep.

It is perhaps a niggly point, but to make a distinction: flocculation is the tendency of yeast to clump together.  The more flocculant a yeast is, the faster they will drop (precipitate is the word here - just like rain).  Lots of particulates precipitate out of beer to get to clear - not just yeast.

509
Ingredients / Re: Good News For Hop Lovers
« on: February 09, 2015, 12:23:20 PM »
I see the guys at YVH about weekly.  They are great to work with. 

Keith, they also supply spot hops for breweries - you may want to ask them about that.

Also, the new Mylar bags are resealable if larger than the 2 ounce size which is nice. 

Their hops are fresh (unless clearly stated that they are from the previous year's harvest).  They buy directly from Yakima Chief/Hop Union, Haas and (I think) Hopsteiner by the pallet.

510
Pimp My System / Re: Motorized Monster Mill
« on: February 09, 2015, 12:14:27 PM »
Can you provide more info on the Tigear gear reduction motor?  I want to motorize and mount my mill in a similar way to yours. 

From a previous setup I have a 1/3 hp motor that runs at 1725 RPM and a 14" sheave which would make the mill run at about 200 RPM, but I don't think the lateral pressure this setup would produce is good for the mill so I'd like to do something different.

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