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Messages - yso191

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Yeast and Fermentation / Moving to dry yeast exclusively
« on: May 07, 2017, 12:01:04 PM »
I was planning to brew a Belgian Dark Strong tomorrow.  I found 2 expired (but just January) packs of yeast at one LHBS, and ordered two more from MoreBeer out of CA.  I paid extra for the 'cool pack'  because even though it is Spring, stuff happens.  The packs from CA arrived at ambient temperature.  No residual coolness at all.

So four packets... into a 1.038 starter wort.  Nothing.  Zip. Zero. Nada.

I've had it.  We have two LHBS's in Yakima.  Last Fall I had the same experience with yeast from the other LHBS, so I went back to the store with a thermometer and stuck it in their yeast 'fridge.'  27*!

Yeast costs way too much to be rolling the dice with dead packets.  Dry yeast it is.

Excellent points!  Thank you all.  Yes, I am getting all my color from syrup.

So I have it set to Yellow Dry for the profile, and I am targeting 5.4 pH

Equipment and Software / Bru'n Water profile for Belgian Dark Strong?
« on: April 29, 2017, 12:05:09 PM »
My next brew is going to attempt to be a clone of Westvleteren 12.  What Bru'n Water profile should I use?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Question for IPAs and Mineral Additions
« on: April 29, 2017, 11:00:50 AM »
Very interesting.  Thank you.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Question for IPAs and Mineral Additions
« on: April 28, 2017, 10:07:09 AM »
I find myself wondering the role hop choice makes in this discussion of pH in IPA's.  In other words take your typical juicy (I use that descriptor for Denny's benefit) NE IPA compared to a PNW dank, piney, citrusy IPA.  I would imagine pH would affect these differently.

Does anyone have any experience with this?  By 'this' I specifically mean changing pH to match hop character.

Ingredients / Re: How many shots of espresso?
« on: April 09, 2017, 12:22:27 PM »
I have a Chocolate Coffee Stout that I used Starbucks Via in.  It turned out very nice.  No dilution, no beans to mess with.  I used 4 of the packets.  The final product seemed right at the tipping point of being enough.  So I may go with 5 next time.  I liked the flavor of Columbia better than the other.

Excellent.  Thank you all.

Ingredients / Re: New Hops Oils Composition Chart View
« on: March 29, 2017, 05:58:04 PM »
Very cool!  Thank you.

Beer Recipes / Re: Recipe Design Webinar
« on: March 29, 2017, 06:27:09 AM »
Can we see it after the fact?

Thanks Denny!

Equipment and Software / Re: Tilt Bluetooth floating hydrometer
« on: March 28, 2017, 07:12:37 AM »
Thanks for posting this.  I'm seeing a purchase in my future!

Thanks for your input.

My thinking is that 80* is the top end of the range recommended by White Labs, and is only an increase of 14*

Yeast and Fermentation / Fermentation profile for Belgian Dark Strong?
« on: March 27, 2017, 04:51:18 PM »
I am planning a Belgian dark Strong inspired by Westvleteren 12.  I'll be using WLP530.  I'm thinking I'll pitch at 66*.  My question is about the temperature ramp.  Should I:

 -Keep the temperature of the fermentation chamber at a constant and let the yeast free-rise


 - Put the temperature probe in the thermowell and control the fermenting beer's temperature

If the latter, I'm thinking leaving it at 66* for 2-3 days then ramp 2 degrees per day until sitting at 80*, then leave it there until FG.


I went with the gear driven JSP because two of the other mills I have had would periodically just sit there and spin the driven roller while the passive roller did nothing.  I'd bang on them, stick stuff down into the hopper to try to force some grain into the teeth of the rollers, etc.  Very frustrating.  And yes I tried various gap settings.

Like I said in a previous post, the JSP just chews through the grain.  I turn it on, load the hopper and come back when it is done.

Here is how I have it set up:

I got the cabinet from the local ReStore (Habitat for Humanity's 2nd hand store) for ~$10, put wheels on it, had a friend build the top so that the shaft from the motor would match that of the mill, and then wired a light switch to turn it on and off.  Voila! I just stick a grain bucket in the door under a custom grain chute (a leg from a pair of chest waders).  BTW Thanks to AmandaK for the sourcing the motor (from

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Matured Beers
« on: March 15, 2017, 03:09:04 PM »
My understanding and limited experience is that maturity varies greatly with beer type.  Some beers are best as soon as they are carbonated.  Others can take years.  Like most things in life, there is a spectrum.

Yes.  But surprisingly for me was the realization that the beers everyone says should not be aged (APA/AIPA) do IMO need a couple of weeks to come into their own.  Stouts are a different issue.  I am drinking a barrel aged imperial stout I brewed two years ago and it shows no sign of being over the hill.

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