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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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Beer Recipes / Re: First All Brett Beer
« on: Today at 07:55:28 AM »
You aren't going to get the usual brett funk out of a brett primary. Instead you'll get a pile of fruity esters. It won't be over the top estery like a Belgian strain and it can be a different set of fruit flavors. With enough age the beer will start to develop the leather/earthy brett character you are familiar with. What you won't see is much in the way of phenolics because brett lacks the ability to develop a significant volume of the precursors necessary to form those flavor compounds. It needs sacc to make those precursors in meaningful volumes. 

Like most expressive yeast strains, aeration and temperature will play a role in the fermentation character. I'd do some aeration and ferment closer to 70F and possibly think about fermenting even warmer. With your pitching rate and a little oxygen you should see fermentation start in max two days but probably just as fast as a regular sacc fermentation and generally fermentation will end about the same time as a sacc fermentation. There is some disagreement whether all brett beers reach terminal gravity after the typical sacc fermentation schedule or if there is a long and slow tail before FG is reached that stretches fermentation out to 1-2 months. Both Cilurzo and Yakobson agree that there is some extended fermentation but you'll probably see around a 1P drop. Maybe you account for that during packaging or let it ride out in a tank until that happens.

Ingredients / Re: Malt Flavor: American vs. Belgian
« on: Today at 07:29:40 AM »
I'm in the same boat as far as brewing small batches. Many shops don't sell at increments under one pound and when I find a store that sells by the ounce it's usually ridiculously expensive compared to a pound. When I end up with too many partial pounds of specialty malts then it's time to piece together a recipe to trim down.

Plenty of people swear by brew in a bag, which creates a crazy cloudy wort. So, based on that, I don't think it would affect the final flava flave.

Having made many test batches with BIAB (squeezing, no squeezing, recirc, no recirc, etc) I will not disagree that it works, HOWEVER. I had all my test batches scored (BJCP judges) and they all scored ~7-9 points lower than the same beer brewed traditionally. Just an FYI.

I think there is a flavor difference with BIAB as well. I'm not sure it is from proteins, as OP has inquired about, as much as it is all that starch and husk material getting into the boil. To that end, this other matter may have an effect on OP's beer.

Beer Recipes / Re: Rauchbier Ale recipe
« on: May 04, 2015, 11:27:45 AM »
It's pretty standard for a smoked beer. Not sure you need the carafoam or that you necessarily want the bohemian pils over a regular pils.

Whatever you decide, try to get the freshest rauchmalz you can. The smoke character fades in rauchmalz and 40% of older grain could be significantly less smoky than 40% fresh rauchmalz.

Beer Recipes / Re: Souring Advice on Fruit Saison
« on: May 04, 2015, 11:24:38 AM »
Brett by itself won't make that beer sour, just dry and funky. You might get to a happy level of sourness by letting the beer dry out from the saison yeast with the addition of the sugar from the fruit.

I would not expect to see any problems from protein making its way into the fermentor. Most will settle out and you can fine and/or cold crash to get rid of the rest.

I've never read anything that asserted protein affects fermentation or that it has a significant affect on flavor at the levels typical to beer.

The Pub / Re: Deschutes Asheville?
« on: May 03, 2015, 09:54:48 AM »
They've been looking to expand on the east coast for a while.

Beer Recipes / Re: German themed IPA
« on: May 01, 2015, 06:56:54 AM »
I think you need some addition at the start of the boil to get some of that more aggressive bitterness that is typical of IPA. While I enjoy the power of FWH and it will add some bitterness I find it is too smooth on its own for some styles where the bitterness is noticeable part of the beer's profile.

But I rarely brew IPAs so take that for what it's worth.

Ingredients / Re: sour melange blend
« on: May 01, 2015, 06:51:27 AM »
There's a lot of apathy towards 3278, mostly about the level of sourness. I have had pretty good luck with it (particularly in combination with dregs of other sour beers). 3278 throws a lot more funk, IMO, than 3767 and I've had no problem with acid production but it needs time.

Supplication is definitely acid-forward so maybe 3278 isn't the best option. It might have too much brett funk to replicate that beer. Roeselare would be a fine option as would the WL sour blends. I hear lots of good things about The Yeast Bay Melange as well. East Coast Yeast blends are good but hard to find.

Are you dissatisfied with the flavor of the beer? If not then FG is irrelevant.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Homebrew + sanke + EV
« on: May 01, 2015, 06:33:41 AM »
I don't understand why you need a liner in the keg except for convenience. I imagine this product is more expensive than picking up a regular sanke 1/6 barrel keg.

I think it has to be said that this arrangement could result in a lot of problems for you and the pub, including the pub potentially losing its license to sell.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Dry hop vs post boil
« on: April 30, 2015, 01:37:42 PM »
I rarely dry hop because I've been happy with the whirlpool hops. No problems with DMS and I brew a lot with pils.

One of these days I'm going to brew side by side with whirlpool vs. dry hop and see how far apart they are. Hasn't somebody else already done that?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clam chowder saison
« on: April 29, 2015, 08:25:12 AM »
Saw this from an up and coming brewery in California:

Hop Growing / Re: Centennial Hops Are Not Growing
« on: April 29, 2015, 08:11:24 AM »
It's easy to get anxious about seeing those shoots pop out (and then waiting to see cones form) but the best thing you can do right now is not mess with them but ensure they are properly watered and give them time to do what they are built to do.

Equipment and Software / Re: Good buy and help
« on: April 29, 2015, 08:09:35 AM »
I would be surprised if you could fit a ball lock connector and a dispensing port in a conversion. The space on the front of the pig isn't that big once you account for the metal ring that locks the front piece to the bottle. If you do install a quick connect fitting then you definitely need a check valve on the line because beer is going to be in contact with the gas in port until you drink down the pig.

If you opt for a bike charger then be aware that the chargers are designed to unload all the CO2 at once (to fill a bike) and it does not seal as well against the cartridge as say an air gun so the cartridge has a short shelf life. That won't be a problem if you plan on drinking through a pig in a few days (or less) but if you think you'll go through it in a longer period of time then make sure you have spare cartridges available as you'll probably find the cartridge in the charger empty before the pig.

I'd really think about the value of modifying the party pigs like this. You can pick up old 2.5-3 gallon cornies for around $40 (sometimes less) without having to do any modifications or deal with CO2 chargers. I'm not anti-party pig. I have two of them and use them like casks (prime with sugar and dispense by letting air back into the vessel). I've sometimes thought about doing one of these conversions but I haven't been motivated enough to do it.

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