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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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1
Beer Recipes / Re: recipes for 23C. Oud Bruin
« on: July 27, 2016, 09:05:11 AM »
That's my basic problem:clearly show the difference in recipes. BJCP says "A deeper malt character distinguishes these beers from Flanders red ales. The Oud Bruin is less acetic and maltier than a Flanders Red, and the fruity flavors are more malt-oriented." I'm not too familiar with this style, Flemish red is much more common where I live. So I'll have to do some extensive tasting when I get back from vacation.

I'm not sure the actual recipe distinguishes the styles as much as fermentation drives a difference. Modern Belgian oud bruins are also often just lacto and sacc so they don't dry out as much and more malt sweetness remains to oxidize into sherry-like fruit flavors with time. They tend to be stainless aged rather than oak aged like reds. You can find other unusual processes like Petrus oud bruin which is a blend of a sour pale with a clean brown ale and IMO tastes more like a red than an oud bruin like Goudenband but not quite that sweet-sour of a backsweetened red like Monk's Cafe or Duchess.

2
Beer Recipes / Re: recipes for 23C. Oud Bruin
« on: July 26, 2016, 09:03:06 AM »
In practice how different are the two styles once you discount all the backsweetened commercial beers? Most of the recipes I've seen out there for "traditional" oud bruin can also be found listed as "traditional" Flemmish reds too.

The recipe for oud bruin in Wild Brews is 70% pils, 10% caramunich, 10% caravienne and 10% corn with IBUs at 25. I believe this is based around Goudenband (which is just sacc and lacto aged in steel).

Most American renditions of the style tend to include less crystal with some roasted malts. This recipe from Rare Barrel is a good example (https://beerandbrewing.com/VeXzqR8AAEGnjsAc/article/the-rare-barrel-dark-ale-recipe).

Often the recipes that seem to have any credibility (in my eyes, at least) seem surprisingly close to English brown ales and English porters by grain bill. Even the recipe in Goudenband could have some late hops added and pass off without too much thought as a brown porter recipe.

3
All Grain Brewing / Re: Berliner Wiesse
« on: July 25, 2016, 08:59:11 AM »
I wouldn't be too worried that the beer wouldn't carbonate after just four months. It's right about that time that for me I'd start thinking about adding additional yeast at bottling to ensure rapid carbonation but you are 98% certain to get carbonation without reyeasting. It may take a few extra weeks. You may want to add fresh yeast just to remove any doubt and get quick carbonation. You could break open a pack of dry yeast and add a little (to the bucket or directly into each bottle) or if you have some slurry hanging around from a fairly neutral yeast you could add that to the bottling bucket.

I've never had a problem with acidity and carbonation myself but if adding a little extra yeast at bottling will give you more confidence that your beer will turn out will then it's a worthwhile couple of dollars.

4
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: No fermentation after 24 hours.
« on: July 25, 2016, 08:50:31 AM »
You've already received plenty of good advice. The only thing I would add is to confirm your fridge is really in the 60s. Double check with another thermometer. If the fridge is too cool it will delay fermentation.

5
All Things Food / Re: Best of two cultures
« on: July 23, 2016, 08:03:11 AM »
Could use more sausage

6
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Experience with Saflager 34/70?
« on: July 20, 2016, 09:39:04 AM »
It's a very forgiving lager strain and cleanly ferments even in the sixties. It is, however, bland as far as lager strains go. It works well for those hoppier craft lagers where the nuances of other strains might be lost or even undesirable.

7
Beer Recipes / Re: Thinking about trying my first Lager....
« on: July 20, 2016, 09:35:05 AM »
I like the idea of the floor malted pils but you don't need any of that other malt. You will find recipes with other grains in them but I think they are unnecessary.

IBUs should be around 35-40.

Needs a lot more hops in the late boil. Should look closer to around an ounce at fifteen or twenty minutes and another ounce at flameout.

Czech pils also needs a soft water. Look at RO water with a small calcium addition if water chemistry is not something you are familiar with.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What do you think?
« on: July 16, 2016, 11:07:21 AM »
If it's white and filmy or clear with a shiny film then it's likely a pellicle. Is it possible you used some kind of ole ale yeast blend that contained brett? If not and it is a pellicle then you picked up an infection somewhere. Might as well let it ride a little and see how it turns out.

Sometimes beers will develop a little oily surface as they age which is not a pellicle. It's just oils in the beer floating to the surface.

9
Homebrewer Bios / Re: New to brewing
« on: July 15, 2016, 07:52:49 AM »
It's a fine set of equipment. The glass isn't necessary and a lot of people are moving away from it due to safety concerns. That said, you could opt for glass over the bucket. I've used that same bucket for the past seven years. If you plan on going directly into kegging you should probably buy your equipment piecemeal because you won't need the capper or bottling bucket, which is almost half of the cost of the kit.

10
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrewer to Pro, Licensing
« on: July 15, 2016, 07:14:23 AM »
The TTB has started to enforce the rule that beer cannot be made in your home for new breweries (I remember reading that somewhere). Detached garages will qualify if they meet all of the other rules, Federal, Stae and Local. I think Mic Sager's brewery is in a detached garage.

I've seen this too although I've also heard grumblings that the TTB has started rejecting breweries in detatched garages if they are in residentially zoned areas or too close to a residence on the property. It also seems local governments are tightening the screws on these arrangements as they are discovering the popularity of taprooms and don't want bars situated in the middle of residential communities.

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Ingredients / Re: Hops list
« on: July 14, 2016, 08:21:52 AM »
WTH is 'Chicken Ale'?

Exactly what it sounds like.

12
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Why Do You Homebrew?
« on: July 12, 2016, 06:38:40 AM »
I enjoy the process, I find it interesting and I enjoy the outcome.

13
Beer Recipes / Re: Jever Clone
« on: July 12, 2016, 06:32:34 AM »
I hear for German brewing you basically want to pump as much oxygen into the wort as possible at every stage. I dunno, maybe for yeast health or something.  8)

14
You definitely won't get a lot of love for sour mashes from the folks on MTF. I am less opposed to them but you have to accept that sometimes it just doesn't turn out the way you want. These days finding good, pure lactobacillus cultures isn't hard and the need for the risk of a sour mash going bad isn't really worth it. Lots of people like the good belly shots you can buy in the grocery store as a source. I'd suggest taking a look at the Milk the Funk wiki for guidance on how to use these cultures.

There's no good reason for using acid malt the way you suggest. It would be far easier to just dose the wort/beer with lactic acid pre-boil, post-boil, or post-fermentation. However, any of these processes tend to produce very flat, bland sour beers.

15
Perhaps more likely you are seeing other changes in the beer due to different water chemistry. I'd suspect you're seeing greater tannin extraction due to incorrect sparge ph and/or pulling ashy flavor out of roasted grains again due to water chemistry issues.

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