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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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I guess I'm one of those lucky souls who are not bothered by caffeine.  My body has given up complaining about hot and spicy foods too.  It used to drive my wife nuts that I could drink 4 cups of coffee at a party and then fall asleep before her.   ;D

I am very tolerant of caffeine but not like my dad. Not only does he drink a cup of coffee before going to bed but when he wakes up at night and he's thirsty he drinks another cup of coffee and goes back to sleep. And it's not like his coffee is weak. It's some of the strongest drip coffee I've ever had.

First these Belgians show up with the Celsius temperatures and now you're telling me I'm supposed to use the metric system.

It's like the terrorists have already won.  8)

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Oscar Blues Pinner
« on: April 11, 2015, 10:16:11 AM »
5% ABV and 35 is it not just a pale ale?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 1st time pitching Brett
« on: April 10, 2015, 07:17:37 AM »
I wouldn't expect brett to reach terminal gravity in a couple months on 1.012 in most beers. WLP568 is known for stalling early for no apparent reason (and not just winding down very slowly like WY3724) so you may have a lot of otherwise fermentable sugars that brett can chew up quickly.

Check where the gravity is in a couple months. Check a week apart to see if there is continued fermentation and how quickly it is proceeding. If it is in the low single digits then you are probably alright to bottle normally but anything higher should either go into thick bottles or should get bottled with an adjusted volume of priming sugar and allowed to age in bottles until it has reached a terminal gravity and carbonated.

In addition to increased cell count, a starter improves yeast vitality and acts as a crude viability check - if the starter ferments out, you have at least some healthy yeast. That's particularly important with the White Labs vials.

One cup of DME and two cups of water.

Just wanted to point out that that should be two *quarts* of water.

Unless you have some really hungry yeast.  ;D

Beer Recipes / Re: Der Rudi! Super Alpha lager
« on: April 10, 2015, 07:04:10 AM »
You'll want to add a step for fining and likely expect that cold crash to last a little while. WY2000 does not like to floc out. Doesn't have to be months but at least weeks.

There's nothing wrong with buying the amount of yeast you need. It's just more expensive. A starter made from DME is less than a dollar's worth of extract versus $6+ for another pitch of yeast. If you're spending an extra $5 per batch (and probably a lot more) and brewing ten times a year that's $50 that could have paid for at least another extract batch. When you start brewing all grain and buying ingredients in bulk then that $50 could be a few batches of beer.

There's no real skill involved in making a starter. If you can brew a batch of beer then you already know how to make a starter. It's just a small volume of extract wort. One cup of DME and two cups of water. Many of us have flasks for our starters but you can make a starter in anything that can be cleaned and sanitized. A growler or other jug is fine. You just need to cover the mouth with foil. Pitch yeast in the starter and let the wort ferment. Then you have more yeast.

Beer Recipes / Re: Der Rudi! Super Alpha lager
« on: April 09, 2015, 08:55:58 AM »
I pretty much agree with everything Eric said. WY2000 will leave behind a more malty character which gives that impression of being soft especially when it is paired with a soft water profile. So for that reason I would use far less munich malt, if any, and crank up the sulfates. I would probably only use 5-10% munich at most.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 1st time pitching Brett
« on: April 09, 2015, 08:08:09 AM »
Well that sucks. Does that mean I could have to wait that long to bottle safely?

"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."

If your FG 1.012 when you pitched brett then I would say yes, you are going to have to wait some time.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sanitization
« on: April 09, 2015, 07:56:38 AM »
Yes I almost always use a spray bottle exclusively to sanitize. Carboys are the exception because it's not easy to get a good coat on the upper interior with a spray (at least for me). I make a cup or so of solution and pour it in the carboy and shake it up until everything appears well coated. When I pour out the excess solution I capture it in a plastic bowl and use it to sanitize small parts or add it to my spray bottle.

I use very little star-san that way.

The Pub / Re: Chris Rauschuber going pro...
« on: April 09, 2015, 07:36:56 AM »
There's a lot less competition on the north side and all those suburbs expanding on the north side. It's a great opportunity. I'm looking forward to getting down to Austin next year and checking them out.

Ingredients / Re: flaked oats
« on: April 08, 2015, 06:18:07 AM »
I've used quick oats from the store with no problem.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: bad batch
« on: April 08, 2015, 06:14:58 AM »
How much priming sugar was used?

The Pub / Re: AHA governing committee elections
« on: April 07, 2015, 07:45:28 AM »
Maybe you could have run ads about how you brew the hard way.

Beer Recipes / Re: Batch-sparged duo: Wee Heavy - Sour Deflowered
« on: April 06, 2015, 08:36:50 AM »
I have a hard time imagining peat malt working well in a sour beer. Sour beer can have a mineral component to the flavor as the minerals in the water are more exposed by the dryness and acidity. I would be concerned that the iodine flavor of peat would come across as a very harsh mineral and salt flavor.

I don't think he intends to peat the sour.

I clearly missed that the peat malt was going into a separate mash. The fear of a peated sour turned my stomach so quickly I could no longer read properly.

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