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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Re-using yeast
« on: March 28, 2014, 05:27:26 AM »
Is that everything that dumped from the cone or is that yeast rinsed out from the trub?

I agree, if the fridge is old it is probably not very efficient and it's going to be more expensive over the long term. I do have a fridge for fermentation that I picked up on craigslist for fermentation but I only went that route because it was the only fridge I ever found that fit my fermentors without going up to a full size fridge for which I don't have space. It actually fits two cornies inside but I don't want to run an old fridge constantly.

The Pub / Re: Pet Peeves
« on: March 27, 2014, 08:38:50 AM »
I find homebrewers who come into a brewery and think they know more about brewing beer than the head brewer extremely annoying and far too common.

If it is any consolation, that guy has already annoyed everybody else in the room before he got to you.

Beer Recipes / Re: Timothy Taylor Landlord
« on: March 27, 2014, 08:33:14 AM »
Styrian is definitely the source of the citrus note but I think of Styrian as more orange than grapefruit (but not quite as orange-forward as Amarillo) but I could see how people could pick grapefruit over orange as a descriptor.

Ingredients / Re: Efficiency of raw wheat
« on: March 27, 2014, 08:29:54 AM »
The tricky thing about trying to improve conversion is that the better you convert the wheat the less haze you will get but the less conversion you get the lower the gravity but the cloudier your beer will be. There is undoubtedly a happy medium that you could find by cereal mashing most of the unmalted wheat but still adding some directly to the mash to score some haze. You would have to play around with volumes to strike the perfect mix of attributes.

Some other alternatives for you:

1. If you are a glutton for punishment you could try a turbid mash. It's historically appropriate but a long, messy and involved mash schedule.

2. Mix flaked wheat and portion of unmalted wheat in the mash.

3. Add oats/increase amount of oats. Oats will add proteins that will help give you some haze.

4. Use flaked wheat and as Martin suggests, add wheat flour in the boil.

Personally, I would do a combination of the last two.

At nine months there is plenty of brett and pedio should still be active in the beer. I would not be concerned about the volume of brett available to consume the wine base, especially since you are only adding simple sugars there. Brett will live on seemingly forever in a beer. I have beers three and four years old both sour and brett that are continuing to evolve under the work of brett. When I add fruit to sour beer I often do it after a year and I've never had a problem with the brett and bacteria fermenting everything out.


4.  Brew 1.25 gallon batches if you're going to have a bunch of trub.  Lots of hops and certain grains cause create tons of trub.  I brewed two batches a couple days ago (old ale and gruit) and one had tons of trub the other barely any.  If you suck up a ton in your siphon I usually fill my gallon jug to the top and put in the fridge overnight.  The next day rack off a gallon of clean wort into a new jug.

And that goes double if you are brewing small batches with a BIAB mash. I usually hit 1.25 gallons at the end of the boil and leave behind about a quarter of a gallon after chilling to reduce the trub in the fermentor. Before I started doing that I was just calculating for one gallon and ending up giving up a lot of fermentor space to trub.

Beer Recipes / Re: Bamboo beer recipe anyone?
« on: March 26, 2014, 07:23:48 AM »
I've also never heard of it. My guess is that you really want to look at bamboo shoots rather than mature bamboo plants. Not sure what flavor you would get out of bamboo in a beer.

I would blend to the extent that the blended beer tastes better than the individual components.

Why pitch more brett? There is active brett already in your beer.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Brett IPA help
« on: March 26, 2014, 07:13:58 AM »
I would also do a starter based on lager volumes for the gravity/batch size of your beer.

For the most part fermentation will knock off after about three weeks but sometimes those brett primary beers will drop a point or two over the next month or so.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Chart for bottle pressures?
« on: March 26, 2014, 07:07:54 AM »
I think the problem is two fold.

1 - various manufactures
2 - nobody wants to put a number on it and accept the liability.

I won't go over 3 volumes with standard long/short necks and bombers.

Agreed. I would be careful about adhering too closely to what any chart says for exactly these reasons.

Judging by the comments I've seen around the intertubes about this issue, I almost feel bad for the FDA folks who are going to have to sift through comments from beer drinkers about how this is going to ruin beer for everybody.

The Pub / Re: Pet Peeves
« on: March 26, 2014, 06:47:39 AM »
The seemingly inverse relationship between the willingness of beer snobs on certain beer-related websites to pontificate and their knowledge about the subjects upon which they pontificate.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Giga Yeast
« on: March 25, 2014, 07:22:00 AM »
I've also never heard of Giga. Looks like most of their yeast is cultured out of bottles/cans of commercial beers.
Why do you say that?

Most of the descriptions state the strain is from a particular beer or brewery. I guess they could be propagating from a WY/WL or BSI culture instead.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wine Yeast to finish a High Gravity Beer?
« on: March 25, 2014, 07:19:08 AM »
Wine yeast are pretty bad at fermenting maltose and I do not believe they can ferment maltriose at all. That whole idea that you can pitch champagne yeast or other wine yeast at the end of a big beer doesn't really make sense for exactly this reason. Champagne yeast will work to unstick a stuck fermentation because it will chew up the simpler sugars and make a more gentle environment for brewing yeast to consume maltose.

Another thing to keep in mind is that many wine yeast strains have a killer enzyme that will kill off other sacc strains.

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