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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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Perhaps more likely you are seeing other changes in the beer due to different water chemistry. I'd suspect you're seeing greater tannin extraction due to incorrect sparge ph and/or pulling ashy flavor out of roasted grains again due to water chemistry issues.

Ingredients / Re: The BEST Hefe Ingredients... Please
« on: July 06, 2016, 10:36:22 AM »
Hefeweizen doesn't really need spices or fruit; the flavor is driven by the yeast. A typical hefe recipe is going to be 40-60% wheat malt with the rest filled with barley malt, usually pilsner malt. IBUs all early boil of a neutral hop or noble hop to 15-20 IBUs and around 4-5% ABV. There are a few different hefe strains out there and a good thread in this subforum discussing them. Strain plus fermentation temperature are the two main factors that will determine the particular flavor of your hefe.

Adding fruit or spice can be tricky with hefes because the yeast flavor starts to drop off early. The banana and other fruits mellow first and the spices will later lose some of the complexity. It's easy to overdo spicing as the yeast phenols (what gives you the clove-like spice flavors) mellows. It's tough to add fruit because the length of time most fruit needs to be fully extracted is about the time the banana flavor starts to fade out. These kinds of additions are easier with American wheat beers like American hefeweizen (e.g. Widmer Hefe, which is really just a basic wheat beer with low hopping an a neutral yeast) or American wheat (which can range from a very simple recipe to an APA with wheat).

Nothing to be alarmed about.

You probably won't see any activity in the airlock. If you do it will be minimal bubbling generally due to slight warming through the summer causing CO2 offgassing. You should see a pellicle form soon but I would not worry about it, either. It will happen when brett decides it needs to happen. Roeselare is a highly reliable souring blend.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Malts & Grain Suppliers
« on: July 06, 2016, 10:13:28 AM »
I like MoreBeer and Adventures in Homebrewing although MoreBeer is the closer shop for you in CA.

Symbols are still in bounds in a "Artist Formerly Known as Prince" kind of label.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid Yeast by Mail Now?
« on: June 30, 2016, 07:26:10 AM »
I wouldn't worry about 70-80. Yeast hang out in the wild in warmer temperatures.

My concern has always been the uncooled back of the truck baking in the sun than the outside air temps.

Undoubtedly but how hot are those trucks getting in the 70s? I'd imagine they aren't clearing over 100 in a mail truck at those temps. I could be wrong though.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid Yeast by Mail Now?
« on: June 29, 2016, 08:42:20 AM »
I wouldn't worry about 70-80. Yeast hang out in the wild in warmer temperatures.

I have had beers sit in primary for years. Granted those were sour/brett beers but I have sat clean beers up to a year in primary without problems.

Ingredients / Re: WYeast Berliner Weisse Blend phenols?
« on: June 29, 2016, 08:37:09 AM »
If this is 3191 there is brett and any brett phenols are generally going to hang around. Sometimes brett will throw a rubber tire phenol. That does age out but only after a long time.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Whirlpool Brown
« on: June 28, 2016, 08:43:41 AM »
It's ok not to like a style of beer and to not feel like it has to be converted into an IPA.

That said, if you wanted to make a hoppy saison it wouldn't be out of line to use a whirlpool addition. When I make hoppier saisons I tend to like a whirlpool addition, albeit a smaller addition than I would use for an APA or IPA.

All Things Food / Re: Pressure Cooker
« on: June 28, 2016, 08:23:13 AM »
I have my wife's grandmother's pressure cooker from the 1960s. They gave it to us with some spare gaskets so after replacing the gaskets it works great. So far I've only used it a few times and haven't really delved into using it. I'm slightly terrified of it exploding though.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Help, advise
« on: June 27, 2016, 08:39:31 AM »
You don't get anything worthwhile out of making 35 and 45 minute additions that is superior to using less hops at 60 minutes. A smaller 60 minute addition gives you more hops to play with for aroma and flavor at the end of the boil and after the boil.

One reason you may not want to pull water from the valve on the water heater is that the valve is where all the sediment sits so you'll pull whatever precipitates in the water heater. I get a little sand but a lot of calcium buildup in mine. It may not be a big deal if you're only using the water for cleaning but you would probably still want to be able to rinse out the hot water.

If there is a drain that leads outside from the pan the water heater sits in then maybe a utility sink could be routed through that drain to the outside.


Seriously: what is it with AHA and peat?  ;)

I've never looked at a swamp and wished I could light it on fire and eat it.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lost and Found Beer Stories?
« on: June 21, 2016, 08:04:19 AM »
My first all grain batch I got ambitious and tried to get into water chemistry. I was doing okay except I forgot to flip the digital scale from oz to g and added ounces of salts to the water. Needless to say it was very salty. I went ahead and bottled it and ended up using most of the batch to boil hot dogs. I forgot I had several bottles and discovered them three years or so after I brewed it. It gushed and tasted like the liquid from a can of black olives. Needless to say I dumped those bottles.

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