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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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Beer Recipes / Re: Why the Pale Not / An American Pale Ale
« on: March 16, 2017, 08:49:13 AM »
How great would it be for judges to have actual typewriters at the tables? CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK

All Grain Brewing / Re: "Slip Slide sparge method
« on: March 16, 2017, 08:24:46 AM »
It refers to fly sparging in the spirit of a device called a "Slip n' Slide" which is a piece of plastic that water is sprayed onto while you run and slip and slide on it.  Mostly for kids but I enjoy a good run every now and then.

Don't forget the batch sparge version "Crocodile Mile"

The Pub / Re: Brewers Association Top 50 Breweries 2016
« on: March 16, 2017, 08:16:38 AM »
Saw this around facebook yesterday where people were losing their minds about the rankings not realizing this is based exclusively on qualitative sales data.

Definitely some interesting shifts around the top half with the mergers and acquisitions.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Craft vs. Commercial Malts
« on: March 15, 2017, 08:54:09 AM »
Definitely not a subscriber to the idea that something is necessarily superior because it is local, craft, or any other buzz word applies.

There are good reasons why smaller maltsters could produce a more desirable product, such as targeting malts to particular style (e.g. floor malting) or malting heirloom varieties that are more flavorful but tougher to grow on a large scale. I've had some beers made with smaller maltsters' products to varying results. A lot of it seems to be pretty standard barley with pretty standard malting technique that produces malted barley largely indistinguishable from the large maltsters.

Does it make sense to pay a premium for a local product purely because it is local? More of a question of economics than product quality.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Tangy Aftertaste
« on: March 15, 2017, 08:45:07 AM »
Water is the likely culprit and the easiest to test. Definitely try brewing a batch with bottled drinking water.

Ingredients / Re: Cascade SMaSH - How much 5.5% AA hopping?
« on: March 15, 2017, 08:39:16 AM »
I'm personally not a fan of 30 minute additions. I don't think it adds anything special to the beer. I'd rather break it up between the 60 and 15 (or FO) additions to hit your bitterness target and send the rest later in the boil.

Others will disagree. There are plenty of brewers who like those mid-boil additions.

I'm a little shocked that the average for Prairie is so low... it seems like a big deal out here, of course here in Oregon we barely see any, so when it shows up it's a big deal, and it's always their limited stuff like Christmas Bomb. 

Prairie has had a long line of QC problems with their beers that justifiably earns low ratings. Personally I don't think their beers are particularly great even when Prairie is on their game. Lots of mediocre renditions of the hypiest styles that fall far short of the beers people chase in the trading market.

BA data is notoriously awful so no surprise there are some strange results out there. Hype drives a lot of those results.

Casey has some unusual business practices but the beers are well regarded off BA as well.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: NE IPA Yeast options?
« on: March 10, 2017, 08:48:44 AM »
Two most common strains are the conan strain and WY1318 London Ale III (the Boddingtons strain). I haven't used conan but I have used WY1318. I like it a lot. It definitely is not a yeast that likes to clear and easily gets kicked back into solution. It's perfect for NEIPA but something of a problem in other styles where clarity is prized.

Beer Recipes / Re: Recipe Help
« on: March 09, 2017, 12:46:36 PM »
Personally I would eliminate the mash hop and move everything between 60 and flameout to a whirlpool addition, less whatever you need to increase the 60 minute addition to hit desired IBUs. Y

If you are really trying to hit that NEIPA feeling you may want to switch out yeast for WY London Ale III. They also tend to use enormous amounts of hops, you probably need to include another couple ounces in the dry hop or whirlpool but could easily get into 12-16 ounces of hops to get that overpowering hop flavor.

All Grain Brewing / Re: How many here would buy a Grainfather???
« on: March 08, 2017, 11:53:06 AM »
There's also a similar system that is about 40% the cost of the grainfather but lacks the pump and chiller (I think the controls lack some features as well).

I've seen a grainfather used a few times. It seems durable and convenient. Like any other BIAB-type system you definitely have to not fear oxygen exposure to the wort.

If I was a new homebrewer without an existing all grain setup who brewed within standard beer styles I'd certainly consider it if money was not an issue.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What would you call it
« on: March 08, 2017, 11:42:19 AM »
Single, Belgian blonde. Either would be fine. Belgian beers often do not sit within narrow style descriptions unless it is a style description made up to fit a particular beer.

I'm sure it is a concern with cracking the slab.

Would it be possible to secure the tower under the granite and have the entire tower come out of a slightly larger hole?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Top 3 - Bottom 3
« on: March 07, 2017, 10:23:50 AM »

1. Bru'n Water: for reasons explained above

2. Temperature controlled fermentation chamber: for reasons explained above

3. My two gallon cooler mash tun: I brew a lot of small batches and getting better control on mash temperatures greatly improved my smaller brews. I'm also using it as a coolship, allowing me to start spontaneously fermenting smaller batches.


1. 10 gallon cooler: This really isn't a bad piece of equipment but I rarely brew even five gallons and have maybe halfway filled the cooler. I was convinced by people who told me I would want to brew larger and larger batches. That never happened. It's only a bad piece of equipment because I don't need something this large and I fight temperature loss more than I would with a smaller cooler.

2. 8 gallon kettle: My first kettle was a cheap eight gallon tamale steamer. It does what it's supposed to but it's too thin to want to use on a propane burner but too big to use easily on my electric stove. It's too big for one burner but slightly too small for two. It takes forever to hit boil and has really high evaporation. I officially quit using it when I bought a turkey fryer for larger batches after I broke one of the stove coils with too much weight in the kettle. Now it's storage for homebrewing equipment. If my next house has a gas stove it will probably get use as a hot liquor tank during turbid mashes. Maybe.

3. Hop rhizomes: I didn't really know what I was getting myself into growing hops. I didn't realize how poorly suited they were for my home here in Texas. I started growing them right as we hit several years of drought and we would get actual hordes of locusts that would strip the bines of leaves in days. Even without the drought it is still too hot and too much sun for them. Due to the HOA (and for a time, my wife) I can't grow them as high as they need so I only get about eight feet of bines. In five growing seasons I have net about six dried ounces out of four plants. Not worth it. When we move to Denver I plan on keeping the plants but expect better yields.

I try to be economical with my brewing equipment. I have several pieces that I use and use well enough but neither fit in the top or bottom three. I have a couple party pigs which are a good example. I use them as faux casks (without the CO2 inserts) and they work well for that purpose until the internal pressure runs out and the beer pours at a crawl. Worth $30 and I don't have space for a cask (or tap) set up right now. Same for my corona mill. Works okay and I still use it for unmalted grains (which I use a lot). The roller mill I recently bought has improved my mash efficiency and lautering enough that the corona mill is relegated to limited use. I have very little that never gets use.

Beer Recipes / Re: NE IPA Hops Question
« on: March 07, 2017, 09:42:23 AM »
I also would like to hear hops suggestion for this style, something different to citra and galaxy.

Most new hops are fair game. Look for super fruity hops or super fruity + piney or dank.

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