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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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16
Beer Recipes / Re: Saison 2.0
« on: May 13, 2015, 09:13:29 AM »
For those with 3724 experience, about what final gravity should I expect from this grain bill?

I've always wanted to try carafoam, and Toby's recent bio post reminded me of it. But do I really need it with that wheat? If I removed it I'd likely just up the wheat malt to 20%.

I'm considering adding some Brett B towards the end of fermentation. When would be the best time to pitch this, especially considering that I'll be fermenting the beer at 90 degrees? I was thinking of transfering to secondary when the beer gets down to between 1.020 and 1.015, pitching the bret, and finishing fermentation at my usual closet temperature of about 71 degrees.

1. Mid to low single digit FG.

2. No need for carafoam.

3. Unless you are pitching a huge volume of brett--which you don't need to--I would just pitch brett at the same time as sacc. It has a slower growth curve so by the time it is ready to get fermenting sacc has already chewed up the simpler sugars and brett will be left to work on the dextrins and sacc fermentation byproducts.

17
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxygenating Wort
« on: May 12, 2015, 05:18:06 AM »
I rack into fermentors by pouring through a strainer so all of my batches get some amount of aeration. Other than that I tend to rely on pitching a healthy volume of yeast for most beers. Most of my beers also feature a lot of yeast character and a little stress is good for producing that character. However, I do have the typical oxygen set up and use it religiously with lagers and big beers.

18
Beer Recipes / Re: Lagers
« on: May 11, 2015, 10:20:48 AM »
It depends on how precise you are with your ale fermentation techniques. If you already pitch healthy yeast, oxygenate and control fermentation temperatures then you have all the techniques you need to brew lagers. If you're chucking in your yeast at suboptimal rates and fermenting at room temperature then you might find you need to work on your fermentation processes with your lagers.

19
Ingredients / Re: RO sparge water
« on: May 10, 2015, 09:52:15 AM »
I had an unfortunate client that called me in too late who had this problem with their brewing water and the resulting beers came out very acidic. With nearly 300 bbls of acidic beer that they ultimately had to waste, the economic impact was the end for that brewery.

They could have tossed it in some barrels with brett and sold it at a premium.  :-[

20
All Grain Brewing / Re: Treating Sparge Water
« on: May 10, 2015, 09:47:50 AM »
I also mindlessly follow whatever Bru'n Water tells me to do.

21
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Help with bugs
« on: May 08, 2015, 10:57:25 PM »
Give it a taste and see if you like it. If you do then toss the contents into a larger batch.

You said it had yeast in it beforehand. Was this yeast you bought? If so then you might have some of whatever was in the mason jar before in this mix. If it's sour or funky then you at least have some other stuff with it.

22
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: IPA pitch
« on: May 08, 2015, 08:35:57 AM »
The "glutton for punishment" comment was in reference to bottling beer.  I do not know many people who bottled their batches for much more than a year, and that was back in the bad old days.   It appears that you have been brewing for several years, and you still bottle.

I'm also in that camp. I've been brewing for close to six years now and still only bottle. I don't have the space in my house for kegging right now and with brewing mostly one gallon batches it isn't efficient to spend all that time and house space over 8-10 bottles of beer. I also brew a lot of beer that gets aged so being able to drink it one bottle at a time is an advantage for me.

If I brewed in larger volumes more frequently then I'd have a tough time slogging through a bottling day that long that often. Thirty minutes bottling a gallon is much less of a chore than bottling five gallons.

23
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: New brewer
« on: May 08, 2015, 08:31:32 AM »
Is your equipment kit from Brooklyn a one gallon setup? If so then you might have limited opportunities to locate kits pre-built for that size. I know Brooklyn makes several and some of the larger homebrew shops have some available on their websites. Your local shop may carry some or be able to put something together for you.

24
Beer Recipes / Re: Original Dubbel
« on: May 08, 2015, 08:29:13 AM »
BLAM notes that Westmalle dubbel has "dark malt for 'aroma'" in addition to caramel malt. It doesn't specify any further but Candy Syrup Inc. has in its clone recipe--using its products of course--Dingemans Mout Roost 900 which is a chocolate malt. Their clone recipes have positive reviews and probably not far off the mark. I'd suspect the recipe has a little more choc malt than what you would use for color adjustment. The Candy Syrup recipe has chocolate malt around 3.5%.

25
Beer Recipes / Re: First All Brett Beer
« on: May 08, 2015, 08:17:34 AM »
Do you know how much yeast came in the 1BBL starter for brett? My concern is that the lab produced a 1BBL pitch for brett in secondary which would be far less than what you want for primary fermentation.

26
Ingredients / Re: Great Base malt debate?
« on: May 08, 2015, 07:57:41 AM »
If I had it my way I'd always use regionally consistent base malt or blends of different regional malts. At 50-100% of the grain bill it's tough to make a case that the base malt isn't playing a key role in flavor development in most beers. Unfortunately with rising grain and shipping prices and the unavailability of some grains it's not always easy to do that. Often I am buying what is available at the best value.

Fortunately Avangard is available locally at cheap prices so I've been using that quite a bit recently for my pilsner malt need. German malts are good so I'm happy to use them. For two row I picked up a sack of Schreier domestic malt last year because it was a pretty good deal. So far I've been happy using that as a base malt for several American beers and it's going to go into some sour beers.

27
Ingredients / Re: Water adjustment approach?
« on: May 08, 2015, 07:41:31 AM »
I use RO or distilled and build from there.

I'd love to be able to use tap water. I don't have an RO filling machine close by which means rather than paying $0.29/gal I'm paying $0.69 at the store. I'd rather pay $0.02 or whatever tap water costs. Unfortunately the water here is all surface water and we go through droughts in dry months so the mineral content varies widely across the year. It's full of bicarbonate and just tastes terrible. I have an inline filter in my fridge for drinking water and a PUR on the kitchen sink and while both get the water to a semi-drinkable place I'd rather spend a few extra dollars when making beer to use the best water I can.

If I wanted to use the local water I'd still have to cut it with a softer water. I brew lots of lighter beers and the bicarbonate in the local water is just too much. I guess I could make extremely minerally water to try to reach a balance but that doesn't seem like the best course of action. It's sad, actually, because there used to be great well water locally. I have the water profile for brewing from a local brewery that existed pre-prohibition that pulled water from artesian wells. The city was so misguided in their belief in the endless water supply underground (like much of Texas at the time) that they implemented no conservation efforts. Unsurprisingly many of the wells dried out and as it turns out there wasn't enough water to satisfy the city and surface water had to be created by damming the cesspools of the Trinity River.

28
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NOT the way to start a brew day
« on: May 08, 2015, 07:16:07 AM »
Damn that sucks.

One of my local shops uses paper bags and I feel it's only a matter of time before that happens to me too.

29
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Raspberries in a "sour"?
« on: May 07, 2015, 07:33:12 AM »
The majority of the sourness is going to show up when pedio kicks in around 6-8 months after pitching, right about the time brett is really hitting its stride as well. The lacto in Roeselare isn't particularly aggressive so I'm not surprised you aren't seeing much sourness yet. This beer just needs time.

30
All Grain Brewing / Re: Cold Steeping- AHA Article
« on: May 07, 2015, 07:29:13 AM »
I haven't read the article yet but I'm fairly confident they are cautioning against aerating the beer with a post-fermentation addition, although the risk of aeration in post-fermentation additions is probably far more severe with dry hopping than pouring in a small amount of liquid.

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