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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Over-attenuation in BIAB
« on: July 10, 2015, 11:17:48 AM »
You're probably right that your mash is the source of your problems although it might be a few other issues than the length of the mash. The mash duration certainly will give you a highly fermentable wort but as mash temperatures go up the benefit of the longer mash goes down because conversion happens at faster temperatures the higher the temperature. However, if the temperature is dropping by more than a few degrees during the mash then you might be heading into beta territory and you are getting conversion for a much longer period of time and those longer chain sugars are getting broken down into more easily fermented sugars. That could certainly explain your attenuation but I'd want to know what kind of efficiency you are getting from the mash (along with the brewhouse as a whole).

It's also possible your thermometer is incorrect and you are mashing lower than you think and getting significantly more beta conversion than you want.

I'd also take a look at your water profile and mash ph to see if you are getting more acrid character out of the darker grains due to a low mash ph. If you experience good conversion than the water profile might be fine for the mechanics of the mash but not necessarily for the flavor of the beer. A water profile that produces a good mash ph for saison isn't necessarily the same for darker beers.

The attenuation could also be caused by infection somewhere in the process, yeast selection, fermentation temperature (i.e. your thermometer might be reading much lower than what it really is), etc. but I think the mash is at least partially responsible here.

Ingredients / Re: Saison w/ fruit - hop suggestions?
« on: July 10, 2015, 08:21:17 AM »
....and don't forget Styrian Goldings.  I buy a pound of this variety every year, mainly for Belgians.

The other Slovenian hops also play nicely with Belgian styles. I'm really fond of Aurora.

Equipment and Software / Re: New Mash Tun
« on: July 10, 2015, 08:16:29 AM »
No need to sanitize but I would give it a good cleaning before the first use to get any manufacturing chemicals off the cooler and the other pieces you have installed.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brew day visitor
« on: July 10, 2015, 07:59:50 AM »
I wish fresh venison was delivered to my home too.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Brett Bottle Bombs in the making ?
« on: July 09, 2015, 10:56:57 AM »
After four days it may be that the CO2 isn't well dissolved into the beer. I wouldn't stress about bottle bombs unless it's gotten worse in another 4-5 days.

Ingredients / Re: Blending Munich malts
« on: July 09, 2015, 10:55:25 AM »
Blending light and dark munich might get you the right color but not the same flavor. You might create an awesome flavor profile out of the two but it won't be identical to what you're trying to find. Mixing grain isn't like mixing two food dyes. It's like mixing beer. If you mix a saison and a stout together you might get the color of a brown ale but it's not going to taste like a brown ale. It's going to taste entirely different even if the color is the same as a brown ale.

Beer Recipes / Re: Berliner Weisse Methods
« on: July 09, 2015, 10:47:44 AM »
Option 2 is really a sour mash or sour wort in which you are getting whatever you get from the grain for better or for worse. It's not pure lacto; you're getting yeast and other bacteria that are fermenting away at that starter. So along with lactic acid production you'll get alcohol, other acids and various flavor compounds--not all good. For the most part the flavor compounds will boil out or will get blown out during primary fermentation but it is possible to end up carrying over some flavors. I've done a version of this plenty of times and only had flavors show up a couple of times. They weren't bad but they weren't what I expected (e.g. vanilla). Plenty of people have negative experience with it so there is good reason to avoid this process unless you want that element of risk and unpredictability in your beer.

There are so many easily available sources of lacto these days. In addition to the pitches from yeast labs there are all those probiotic pills with lacto (and sometimes other stuff) that people have used with success. You can get those pills for as little as $5/jar.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wild Yeast Revisited
« on: July 08, 2015, 10:18:28 AM »
With as vigorous as it fermented I doubt the acid addition knocked out all of the bacteria in the mix. That pad looks a lot like a kombucha SCOBY. Acetobacter is acid tolerant so it would be unsurprising to find it growing in a culture that was previously acid treated to knock off other bacteria.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Nasty Off-Flavor
« on: July 08, 2015, 10:12:05 AM »
Phosphoric acid may have a mild flavor but you will still taste the impact of the ph reduction. Did you follow the same water treatment process with the batches that were kegged?

I do it all the time. No problem.

The Pub / Re: help buying sour beers
« on: July 06, 2015, 11:09:01 AM »
How much are you looking to spend and where do the lucky couple live?

Crooked Stave beers are excellent and reasonably priced. If the couple live outside of Crooked Stave's distribution then I would absolutely recommend Crooked Stave. Crooked Stave would be a fine gift for anybody in their distribution footprint but it's not so hard to find in Colorado that you may be giving them something they do not regularly drink. The most widely distributed Crooked Stave beers are not bracingly sour but some are. Most people are happy to get any Crooked Stave so you are probably good to pick up anything you come across. If you can get to either Crooked Stave location in Denver you might have more choices in bottles.

Cascade beers are good but IMO not worth their price point. I've seen them for sale at $30-50 per bottle which is ridiculous. There are better fruit sours on the market for $30 and less.

I'm not sure if Cantillon distributes into Colorado but that would be a good choice. Drie Fonteinen definitely does and would be another good choice. Drie is pricey but on par with Cascade.

You'll also find some of the Odell and Funkwerks sours around Colorado which are good but can be tough to find. Russian River's sours get into your market but disappear pretty much right when they hit the stores. You also get Jolly Pumpkin and possibly Anchorage. You might even get Allagash's sour beers. Bruery distributes into your market and put some good beers that might be on the shelf (Rueze, Tart of Darkness and maybe Sour in the Rye).

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pedio for barrel aging
« on: July 06, 2015, 10:00:43 AM »
I believe there is pedio in roeselare but keep in mind it is a slow moving bacteria. It generally pops up months into fermentation so the fact that you have not seen any additional acid production is not surprising.

Beer Recipes / Re: Help
« on: July 06, 2015, 08:22:00 AM »
You all are missing the boat. I have been selling local breweries smash recipes for years. Those guys have no idea how to design recipes. I'm rich now.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

It was talked about during one of the NHC seminars that oxygen comes in with the hops and there is a risk of diacetyl formation when the yeast are cleared prematurely and in comes this extra oxygen. So that is one reason why some prefer dry hopping with active yeast but the biotransformations are another good reason to consider dry hopping as fermentation winds down. However, on the other hand, the yeast are going to strip out some of the flavor compounds when they fall out so that's a pretty good reason to crash first. If you wanted the best of both worlds maybe you dry hop at both stages.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Harvesting some yeast
« on: July 02, 2015, 10:33:06 AM »
This is what I do pretty much every batch. It's the healthiest yeast in my brewing process and if spare yeast is going to end up in a mason jar anyway it might as well get there without going through the beer and all the other opportunities to pick up uninvited guests.

I see home brewers make this incorrect assumption all of the time. However, nothing could be further from the truth.  Unless one is performing aseptic transfers into wort that was autoclaved in the vessel in which the yeast is propagated and stored, pitching a starter from a starter provides little to no advantage from a contamination point of view over serial repitching from normal gravity (sub-6% ABV) batches.  Boiled starter wort is not sterile, and neither is a sanitized or boiled starter vessel.

If the processes compared are:

1. Make a starter, unload the starter liquid with some of the yeast into a sanitized mason jar; or

2. Make a starter, unload the starter into a sanitized fermentor, use sanitized bottling equipment to remove the beer, then unload some of the trub into a sanitized mason jar;

Then I hardly see how the first is a less effective method of yeast recovery if only because less sanitized, but not sterilized, equipment is coming in contact with the beer.

I'll agree with you that if the comparison is either of the above processes versus pitching new wort directly onto some or all of the trub from a prior batch then certainly that direct pitch is a superior process. However, when I brew I am almost never brewing another batch immediately after the next and often not brewing sequentially with the same yeast. So either way that yeast is going in a mason jar. I also have to store fermentors in an area where there is a lot of dust that finds its way to the exterior of the fermentors. These are screw top one gallon jugs for the most part. It's difficult to get them effectively clean to pour out the yeast without picking up an infection. I've tried with a near 100% success rate of picking up a very aggressive infection. Going directly from starter to mason jar has solved that problem. That's why I qualified my answer that this is the best option for my brewing process rather than insist it is best for all.

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