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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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226
Ingredients / Re: Favorite hop mix?
« on: April 05, 2017, 07:16:52 AM »
Cascade/Aramis/Aurora is one of my favorite combinations for saisons. Also works well for a hoppy lager.

227
All Grain Brewing / Re: Looking to upgrade
« on: April 04, 2017, 08:11:45 AM »
I'm open to all variations and budget isn't really an issue, i'm more of an all grain type guy

Famous last words  8)

228
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Worst. Brew session. Ever.
« on: April 03, 2017, 08:26:57 AM »
It's all rise from here.

229
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Delerium Red
« on: March 28, 2017, 09:15:49 AM »
A really weird beer because the other Delerium beers are great (IMO).

230
A little aeration and agitation from bottling may be enough to reactivate sluggish yeast. If gravity is truly at 1.040 then bottle bombs are certainly possible.

If both readings are correct then you ended up with about 50% attenuation which means you had some awful yeast. Or at least one reading is wrong.

It is an issue that you ended up short twenty percent of the expected volume but that is not a fatal issue, if your OG was really 1.080. Maybe the refractometer reading was wrong and you were higher due to the lower volume. In that case underpitching yeast for that gravity might result in poor fermentation that cut out at 1.040 and that's just all the yeast will do with that beer.

Definitely keep the bottles in a shielded area.

231
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Brett in Secondary
« on: March 27, 2017, 09:00:12 AM »
1. What pitch rate should I use?

Not much. For one gallon you could pitch a tenth or a fifth of a pack of brett.

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2. What temperature should I hold it at?

Anywhere in the 60-80F range is fine.

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3. Which strain should I use?

Depends on what flavors you want. Brett brux will give you the flavors most people think of with brett. Clausenii is more pineapple/fruit. What is sold as lambicus is like brux but known for producing more cherry pie flavors. Brux will get to those flavors too but with more time.

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4. How long should I secondary?

Until gravity is stable and you are happy with the flavors. Three months is about the time needed for full attenuation but flavor will continue to develop. I'd start checking around month three but think about going out to six or nine months.

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5. Once it's finished, do I (A) crash and clear the liquid and (B) prime it?

After that length of time it will drop pretty clear on its own. Once it fully attenuates you'll need to prime for bottling. You'll want to target priming on the high end because you lose dissolved CO2 with time.

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I've read that I can bottle condition without priming if the gravity is at 1.010 or so; that'll give me plenty of sugar and potential CO2 volume when it's ready. So, I guess my next question would be, if I bottle my stuff (after pulling the dregs) at 1.015, how do I get the rest down to 1.010: leave it in the fermentor?

This is a strategy but a dangerous one. Until you know how far down brett will take a given beer you'll have no idea how much attenuation you will see in the bottle. At 1.010 that beer might get down to 1.004 or 1.002. Factor in the further fermentation plus dissolved CO2 already in the beer and you could have a high level of carbonation on one hand and gushing or exploding bottles on the other. This process works much better when you have experience knowing the likely FG of the beer.

If you wanted to do this you would need to add brett and when gravity reaches 1.010 then bottle.

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And instead of transferring to a secondary, would it be safe to hold the remaining one gallon (a majority of its dregs drained) in the original fermentor? Would the yeast strains compete at this point? Would it matter? And will all that extra headspace be a problem (even if I layer it in CO2)?

Brett plus oxygen creates acetic acid, some of which will turn into ethyl acetate. I would not recommend this path.

232
What is it about your current equipment you find lacking and what additional features do you need/want in new equipment?

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Ethyl acetate or fusels?
« on: March 26, 2017, 09:20:03 AM »
I also suspect it is a fermentation temperature issue.

I wonder whether the metal kettle is cooling more than the beer inside resulting in a significantly hotter fermentation than desired. On your next batch try taking temperature readings of the fermenting beer and compare it to the reading on your controller.

234
Definitely a witbier recipe. They may only sell coriander seeds in that volume. Not sure the recipe calls for all of the orange peel either. If you want to brew a witbier you can look at the witbier recipes on the AHA site for ideas about how much orange peel and coriander to use.

Alternatively you could brew it as an American wheat or a wheat-y pale ale by using little to no spices and more hops.

235
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: It begins...
« on: March 24, 2017, 09:28:27 AM »
Are some of you suggesting the takeover is a step toward ending homebrewing (and/or craft) all together, forcing us to buy their products? 

I didn't see anybody suggesting they are going that far. I shouldn't speak for anybody else; I just didn't see anybody saying that.

It's not nefarious. Their main product lines are losing market share so they started buying up craft breweries. They've expanded those labels and now they are trying to maximize profits by selling the same intellectual property on the homebrewing market. They can take the ingredients they already buy, repackage it and sell it to homebrewers at a great profit.

The problem here is the same ABI always has with their products. They are late to the party and when they get there they expect the party to conform to them rather than the other way around. They can't see the craft or homebrewing market beyond their own business paradigm of how they market products. Here, openness about kits and recipes has always been a part of the homebrewing community--even among its retailers. These practices stick out like a sore thumb, regardless of whether they are profitable business practices. That's why, at least as far as what I read, there is pushback in this thread.

236
All Grain Brewing / Re: Best Method to Crush Raw Wheat?
« on: March 24, 2017, 09:11:06 AM »
And for a Belgian wit is it correct that I should be using SOFT WHITE Wheat Berries?

I don't have a local source, but I found the following on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Verified-Non-Irradiated-Certified-Identity-Preserved/dp/B005XDUA9K?th=1

Would this work best?

Thanks again for all of the help

IMO witbier is one of the few styles (maybe the only style) where I prefer using white wheat over red wheat.

Some homebrew shops carry white wheat. Some health food/specialty grocers carry it as well. Most only carry red wheat. I believe flaked wheat is typically white wheat so unless you are desperate to perform a cereal mash or believe the flavor is better buying unprocessed wheat over flaked wheat, I would look at just buying flaked wheat at a homebrew shop.

237
When the time comes that the freezer has problems or dies, how hard will it be to repair or replace?


238
All Grain Brewing / Re: Best Method to Crush Raw Wheat?
« on: March 23, 2017, 08:34:20 AM »
I mill unmalted wheat in my old corona mill set to a small gap. I hit it with a boil to gelatinize unless I'm turbid mashing.

239
Hopefully this gets found by all you original posters! Our club is going through a similar transition that some of you described in that we generally a drinking/sharing social once a month with the occasional competition or speaker. A few of us are putting some bylaws together and will definitely be looking through the posted ones. I'm curious how the transition went for you all and what your group looks like now. At this point we are just going to have a more organized calendar and leadership time. We are going to have a formal training/speaker/peer review at the beginning of each meeting as well as the social aspect. Do any of you have advice or were surprised at how well or poorly something went? Anything you can provide would be great as we are starting to put this in place over the next 3-4 months. Thanks all and cheers!

Is your club collecting dues, incorporating as a formal entity, or so large that having designated leadership is necessary? If none of those apply you probably only need a basic framework for electing leadership and their responsibilities. Anything beyond that might be creating solutions for problems that don't exist.

If you need bylaws for one of the reasons above then you really need to think about how little needs to be in the bylaws. The bylaws should contain what is legally required in your jurisdiction, what minimal architecture is necessary to administer the organization and any other rules that need to be durable enough that it takes a large membership vote to change them. Anything else can be administered through separate policy documents more easily changed as needed.

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bleach solution to kill yeast?
« on: March 20, 2017, 09:53:09 AM »
If the bottles are reasonably clean then the easiest way to ensure yeast death is heat, either in a hot wash in your dishwasher or dry heat in the oven.

I use bleach to clean my bottling equipment after bottling anything with a mixed fermentation because I use the same equipment for bottling clean beers. I use one tablespoon of bleach to one gallon of water and let it sit for twenty minutes. Then I rinse with hot water and then another soak with hot water and a crushed campden tablet for twenty minutes. Then a cold water rinse. So far no problems with bottle infections in clean beers and no bleach flavor carryover.

You could do the same for your bottles although I'd probably just rinse the bleach solution out with hot water. I take the extra steps to remove bleach because plastic is porous.

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