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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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256
All Grain Brewing / Re: Berliner Wiesse
« on: July 25, 2016, 08:59:11 AM »
I wouldn't be too worried that the beer wouldn't carbonate after just four months. It's right about that time that for me I'd start thinking about adding additional yeast at bottling to ensure rapid carbonation but you are 98% certain to get carbonation without reyeasting. It may take a few extra weeks. You may want to add fresh yeast just to remove any doubt and get quick carbonation. You could break open a pack of dry yeast and add a little (to the bucket or directly into each bottle) or if you have some slurry hanging around from a fairly neutral yeast you could add that to the bottling bucket.

I've never had a problem with acidity and carbonation myself but if adding a little extra yeast at bottling will give you more confidence that your beer will turn out will then it's a worthwhile couple of dollars.

257
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: No fermentation after 24 hours.
« on: July 25, 2016, 08:50:31 AM »
You've already received plenty of good advice. The only thing I would add is to confirm your fridge is really in the 60s. Double check with another thermometer. If the fridge is too cool it will delay fermentation.

258
All Things Food / Re: Best of two cultures
« on: July 23, 2016, 08:03:11 AM »
Could use more sausage

259
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Experience with Saflager 34/70?
« on: July 20, 2016, 09:39:04 AM »
It's a very forgiving lager strain and cleanly ferments even in the sixties. It is, however, bland as far as lager strains go. It works well for those hoppier craft lagers where the nuances of other strains might be lost or even undesirable.

260
Beer Recipes / Re: Thinking about trying my first Lager....
« on: July 20, 2016, 09:35:05 AM »
I like the idea of the floor malted pils but you don't need any of that other malt. You will find recipes with other grains in them but I think they are unnecessary.

IBUs should be around 35-40.

Needs a lot more hops in the late boil. Should look closer to around an ounce at fifteen or twenty minutes and another ounce at flameout.

Czech pils also needs a soft water. Look at RO water with a small calcium addition if water chemistry is not something you are familiar with.

261
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What do you think?
« on: July 16, 2016, 11:07:21 AM »
If it's white and filmy or clear with a shiny film then it's likely a pellicle. Is it possible you used some kind of ole ale yeast blend that contained brett? If not and it is a pellicle then you picked up an infection somewhere. Might as well let it ride a little and see how it turns out.

Sometimes beers will develop a little oily surface as they age which is not a pellicle. It's just oils in the beer floating to the surface.

262
Homebrewer Bios / Re: New to brewing
« on: July 15, 2016, 07:52:49 AM »
It's a fine set of equipment. The glass isn't necessary and a lot of people are moving away from it due to safety concerns. That said, you could opt for glass over the bucket. I've used that same bucket for the past seven years. If you plan on going directly into kegging you should probably buy your equipment piecemeal because you won't need the capper or bottling bucket, which is almost half of the cost of the kit.

263
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrewer to Pro, Licensing
« on: July 15, 2016, 07:14:23 AM »
The TTB has started to enforce the rule that beer cannot be made in your home for new breweries (I remember reading that somewhere). Detached garages will qualify if they meet all of the other rules, Federal, Stae and Local. I think Mic Sager's brewery is in a detached garage.

I've seen this too although I've also heard grumblings that the TTB has started rejecting breweries in detatched garages if they are in residentially zoned areas or too close to a residence on the property. It also seems local governments are tightening the screws on these arrangements as they are discovering the popularity of taprooms and don't want bars situated in the middle of residential communities.

264
Ingredients / Re: Hops list
« on: July 14, 2016, 08:21:52 AM »
WTH is 'Chicken Ale'?

Exactly what it sounds like.

265
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Why Do You Homebrew?
« on: July 12, 2016, 06:38:40 AM »
I enjoy the process, I find it interesting and I enjoy the outcome.

266
Beer Recipes / Re: Jever Clone
« on: July 12, 2016, 06:32:34 AM »
I hear for German brewing you basically want to pump as much oxygen into the wort as possible at every stage. I dunno, maybe for yeast health or something.  8)

267
You definitely won't get a lot of love for sour mashes from the folks on MTF. I am less opposed to them but you have to accept that sometimes it just doesn't turn out the way you want. These days finding good, pure lactobacillus cultures isn't hard and the need for the risk of a sour mash going bad isn't really worth it. Lots of people like the good belly shots you can buy in the grocery store as a source. I'd suggest taking a look at the Milk the Funk wiki for guidance on how to use these cultures.

There's no good reason for using acid malt the way you suggest. It would be far easier to just dose the wort/beer with lactic acid pre-boil, post-boil, or post-fermentation. However, any of these processes tend to produce very flat, bland sour beers.

268
Perhaps more likely you are seeing other changes in the beer due to different water chemistry. I'd suspect you're seeing greater tannin extraction due to incorrect sparge ph and/or pulling ashy flavor out of roasted grains again due to water chemistry issues.

269
Ingredients / Re: The BEST Hefe Ingredients... Please
« on: July 06, 2016, 10:36:22 AM »
Hefeweizen doesn't really need spices or fruit; the flavor is driven by the yeast. A typical hefe recipe is going to be 40-60% wheat malt with the rest filled with barley malt, usually pilsner malt. IBUs all early boil of a neutral hop or noble hop to 15-20 IBUs and around 4-5% ABV. There are a few different hefe strains out there and a good thread in this subforum discussing them. Strain plus fermentation temperature are the two main factors that will determine the particular flavor of your hefe.

Adding fruit or spice can be tricky with hefes because the yeast flavor starts to drop off early. The banana and other fruits mellow first and the spices will later lose some of the complexity. It's easy to overdo spicing as the yeast phenols (what gives you the clove-like spice flavors) mellows. It's tough to add fruit because the length of time most fruit needs to be fully extracted is about the time the banana flavor starts to fade out. These kinds of additions are easier with American wheat beers like American hefeweizen (e.g. Widmer Hefe, which is really just a basic wheat beer with low hopping an a neutral yeast) or American wheat (which can range from a very simple recipe to an APA with wheat).

270
Nothing to be alarmed about.

You probably won't see any activity in the airlock. If you do it will be minimal bubbling generally due to slight warming through the summer causing CO2 offgassing. You should see a pellicle form soon but I would not worry about it, either. It will happen when brett decides it needs to happen. Roeselare is a highly reliable souring blend.

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