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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid Yeast by Mail Now?
« on: June 30, 2016, 07:26:10 AM »
I wouldn't worry about 70-80. Yeast hang out in the wild in warmer temperatures.

My concern has always been the uncooled back of the truck baking in the sun than the outside air temps.

Undoubtedly but how hot are those trucks getting in the 70s? I'd imagine they aren't clearing over 100 in a mail truck at those temps. I could be wrong though.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid Yeast by Mail Now?
« on: June 29, 2016, 08:42:20 AM »
I wouldn't worry about 70-80. Yeast hang out in the wild in warmer temperatures.

I have had beers sit in primary for years. Granted those were sour/brett beers but I have sat clean beers up to a year in primary without problems.

Ingredients / Re: WYeast Berliner Weisse Blend phenols?
« on: June 29, 2016, 08:37:09 AM »
If this is 3191 there is brett and any brett phenols are generally going to hang around. Sometimes brett will throw a rubber tire phenol. That does age out but only after a long time.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Whirlpool Brown
« on: June 28, 2016, 08:43:41 AM »
It's ok not to like a style of beer and to not feel like it has to be converted into an IPA.

That said, if you wanted to make a hoppy saison it wouldn't be out of line to use a whirlpool addition. When I make hoppier saisons I tend to like a whirlpool addition, albeit a smaller addition than I would use for an APA or IPA.

All Things Food / Re: Pressure Cooker
« on: June 28, 2016, 08:23:13 AM »
I have my wife's grandmother's pressure cooker from the 1960s. They gave it to us with some spare gaskets so after replacing the gaskets it works great. So far I've only used it a few times and haven't really delved into using it. I'm slightly terrified of it exploding though.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Help, advise
« on: June 27, 2016, 08:39:31 AM »
You don't get anything worthwhile out of making 35 and 45 minute additions that is superior to using less hops at 60 minutes. A smaller 60 minute addition gives you more hops to play with for aroma and flavor at the end of the boil and after the boil.

One reason you may not want to pull water from the valve on the water heater is that the valve is where all the sediment sits so you'll pull whatever precipitates in the water heater. I get a little sand but a lot of calcium buildup in mine. It may not be a big deal if you're only using the water for cleaning but you would probably still want to be able to rinse out the hot water.

If there is a drain that leads outside from the pan the water heater sits in then maybe a utility sink could be routed through that drain to the outside.


Seriously: what is it with AHA and peat?  ;)

I've never looked at a swamp and wished I could light it on fire and eat it.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lost and Found Beer Stories?
« on: June 21, 2016, 08:04:19 AM »
My first all grain batch I got ambitious and tried to get into water chemistry. I was doing okay except I forgot to flip the digital scale from oz to g and added ounces of salts to the water. Needless to say it was very salty. I went ahead and bottled it and ended up using most of the batch to boil hot dogs. I forgot I had several bottles and discovered them three years or so after I brewed it. It gushed and tasted like the liquid from a can of black olives. Needless to say I dumped those bottles.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP830 slow start?
« on: June 20, 2016, 08:51:11 AM »
If you pitched 350ml of slurry into each vessel and each has five gallons of beer then you might have pitched sufficient volumes--if the slurry was fairly fresh. Pitching rate calculators tend to assume viability nosedives relatively quickly. If the yeast was a couple weeks old it was probably enough but if it was a couple months old (and I mean from the end of primary fermentation from the harvested batch) then you may have underpitched by 50% or more.

Personally I'd pitch the 34/70 and get fermentation going rather than keep waiting and seeing what happens.

Ingredients / Re: Pekko Hops
« on: June 20, 2016, 08:38:37 AM »
I take offense at the Pekko-brand marketing material (re:  There's a subset of craft beer attitude that is entirely adolescent; meaning, I personally need to be done with it.  It has no place for those who have any kind of respect for women, and their marketing style doesn't appear to have anything to do with good hops.  Passing it up and staying clear of whomever is

It is particularly unusual and unnecessary advertising for hops.

What do you want to accomplish by improving your brewing system? Are you seeing a quality issue (e.g. with the inconsistent mash temperatures)? Just looking for greater convenience (e.g. not have to transfer back and forth between the boil kettle)? Or are you just looking for something to tinker with even if you don't need to?

All of it.

I just racked 4 lbs. of blueberries onto a hoppy IPA I was brewing that had developed a stuck fermentation from lack of sugars.  I understand that a new krausen will form, and I was also wondering about how the gravity will be affected by it?  Anybody know anything?  I am a novice at this, although I am as fascinated by homebrewing as anything I have ever found, and I am trying to learn it all as fast as I can.

What do you think you mean when you say, "developed a stuck fermentation from lack of sugars"? A stuck fermentation occurs when there is an excess of unfermented sugars that indicates the yeast failed to reach expected attenuation.

Adding fruit will add sugar and water to your beer. The sugar will ferment out and the water will dilute the beer. You'll end up with a drier beer than what the recipe called for but you'll also hopefully have plenty of fruit flavor to carry it along.

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