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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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271
Beer Recipes / Re: British Ordinary Bitter critique & suggestions
« on: May 15, 2016, 08:01:46 AM »
Concerning crystal malt in bitters, a recent attempt at a pale mild yielded a beer that fit neatly in the "special bitter" range. No crystal malt was used, but the beer did have a heavy percentage of invert no. 3 in the grist. The resulting beer had a subtle hard caramel candy flavor, without any of the other crystal malt flavors. The beer was excellent, I plan on using invert/no crystal malt in more bitters this summer.

This beer was used in the beer swap, here's brewinhard's review:
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=26129.msg345548#msg345548

Now you've peaked my interest. Do you or anyone else have a decent protocol/recipe for making invert #3 at home? I thought I saw a recipe a while back but I can't find it at the moment.

Ron Pattinson's blog (Shut Up About Barclay Perkins) is a typical source for these recipes.

272
A good Central American coffee is usually a safe bet. They tend to have low acidity and bitterness with prominent chocolate and nut flavors but minimal earthiness. A higher end Mexican or Colombian would be the same. I'd shy away from South American unless it's Peruvian or a specific Colombian you've tasted and liked. Many South American coffees are good but may not give you a standout flavor you want.

Personally my choice for a coffee stout/porter would be a good quality Guatemalan, Panamanian, Nicaraguan, or Mexican coffee. Guatemalans are pretty easy to find.

273
Ingredients / Re: interesting hop to pair with cascade
« on: May 11, 2016, 10:18:07 AM »
I really like Aurora and Cascade together in a pale ale or hoppy lager. Aurora is a Styrian variant. It has a mixed citrus flavor with a touch of tropical fruit. However, unlike newer hop varieties it isn't a fruit bomb. It has some floral notes but the fruit is primarily offset by herbal and pine notes. You could easily balance the fruit with some Mount Hood.

Sounds great! Some descriptors I have found just seem to compare it it Northern Brewer so it is good to actually hear from someone who has used it.

I don't think it's much like Northern Brewer. I feel like that is people looking at the lineage of a hop and saying that's what it tastes like. It is a little forest-y but I think that's true of all styrian variants and a little true of saaz. It's definitely not the woodsy and minty northern brewer flavor.

274
Roeselare needs time. The brett and pedio in the blend move slowly and you should expect this beer not to be finished until six months at the minimum but more likely in the 12-18 month range. It will likely hit full attenuation at 6-9 months but flavor development will reach optimal levels down the road.

Leave it alone and let it do its thing.

275
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Home Made Home Brewing Kit
« on: May 11, 2016, 08:16:56 AM »
If by brewing kit you mean putting together a recipe then I'd encourage you to stick with a pre-made kit or have your local homebrew shop put together a recipe for you for your first few brews. It's alluring to have your own recipes but if you don't understand the ingredients then you run the risk of being well off the mark from what you want.

276
Less science more hate.  >:(

277
When I go back home to the tiny town where I grew up this is not the case. Most of that grocery store is still filled with BMC flagships, but they have started putting Blue Moon and other more flavorful beers from the same companies in the lineup (and their share of shelf is growing). I think this means that even in the biggest beer deserts tastes and minds are changing. Now it's just a matter of time....

What I see a lot in the major grocery stores/big box stores around Dallas has been an expanding amount of space going to non-industrial lager but when one looks closely the amount of non-MillerCoors and non-ABI beer is shrinking and the amount of crafty labels (for lack of a better term) has expanded greatly. At the local Kroger we used to have almost an entire side of the aisle for craft beer. Now that is 1/2 stocked with MillerCoors and ABI crafty labels and 1/2 craft brands. We're starting to get a lot more local breweries which means the shelf space per craft brand is going to shrink considerably.

278
Monsooned Malabar is probably the best known coffee from India and the easiest to find. I would guess your recipe is calling for Malabar, especially blended with a Peruvian coffee. Malabar is chocolate-y while many other Indian coffees are woody or spice-forward. They are good but probably not what you are after.

Good quality Peruvian coffees can be tough to find. A lot of the Peruvian coffee is sold away into generic South American blends. There are very good small organic farms grown at high altitude producing some exceptional coffee. Pretty much all of the high elevation coffee is organic while most of the lower elevation is not. So an easy way to figure out what to buy is just to look for anything organic from Peru. These coffees are low acidity with a smooth chocolate flavor.

If you're finding Malabar you're probably finding an organic Peruvian. If you can't find a decent Peruvian then your next best option would be a high quality Nicaraguan coffee.

279
Ingredients / Re: interesting hop to pair with cascade
« on: May 11, 2016, 07:47:57 AM »
I really like Aurora and Cascade together in a pale ale or hoppy lager. Aurora is a Styrian variant. It has a mixed citrus flavor with a touch of tropical fruit. However, unlike newer hop varieties it isn't a fruit bomb. It has some floral notes but the fruit is primarily offset by herbal and pine notes. You could easily balance the fruit with some Mount Hood.

280
The Pub / Re: How bout them Pens
« on: May 11, 2016, 07:32:22 AM »
I like RSVP for ball point but Uniball for roller ball and gel pens.

281
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Missing American Blonde
« on: May 10, 2016, 08:00:02 AM »
This is possibly the longest thread about the most boring topic ever posted at AHA.  ;)

Do blonde ales have it?

Problem solved.  8)

282
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Portland search
« on: May 09, 2016, 09:04:48 AM »
If you're in the Cascade/Commons/Green Dragon area you might as well hit Belmont Station. It's not a brewery but an excellent bar/bottle shop.

283
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: plastic fermenters
« on: May 08, 2016, 12:09:33 PM »
Mostly plastic here. The only glass I have are 4l wine jugs. No flavor faults from plastic and I have beer that's been in a plastic better bottle for about 5.5 years. If beer would develop flavors from plastic it would taste like plastic soup. It doesn't.

284
The Pub / Re: Guitar talk moved over from main forum....
« on: May 08, 2016, 11:49:37 AM »
Can I get my banged up Hondo strat rip off somewhere in this conversation?

285
All Grain Brewing / Re: New to all grain
« on: May 06, 2016, 09:22:46 AM »
That ten gallon cooler would be a fine mash tun. I agree that it doesn't make as much sense to have an unheated hot liquor tank at the top of the system. You might as well have a burner on a kettle at the top and gravity feed water from the kettle into the mash tun. I can understand the safety perspective of not wanting a flame or scalding hot water at eye level. I don't think this is as much of a concern if you use a larger wood frame over the metal Blichmann type tower where the kettle sits on very little support and would be easier to knock off.

For a gravity system the lowest liquid level of each level needs to be higher than the highest liquid level of the step immediately below it. If you don't do that then you'll reach a point where the liquid will stop flowing because the surface is even across both vessels. That's why you should build from the ground up not the other way around.

Presumably you are fly sparging on this set up. I'm not sure how much height is necessary to get an optimal sparge but I assume you need more than a few inches. I would definitely plan on a foot or more between the mash tun and boil kettle. As the boil kettle fills the wort will flow slower and can turn to a crawl if they get too close.

There are a number of plans available online to build these. I would rely on those plans rather than reinventing the wheel.

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