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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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271
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anti oxidation ideas
« on: September 06, 2015, 10:01:47 AM »
If you're desperate to spend as little money as possible on a CO2 setup for purging then take a look at your local craigslist. It's not too hard to find CO2 tanks, sometimes even with the regulator, at cheap prices. You can take the CO2 tank to a place that swaps rather than refills if the tank is in rough condition. You can also buy a regulator, adapter and CO2 paintball tank but in the long term that 20oz. paintball tank is going to cost you more in refills than a larger tank. Plus, if you think you'll ever move to kegging you'll undoubtedly need a larger tank and that paintball tank will end up in the pile of no longer used brewing equipment that everybody has.

I'd also suggest reconsidering brewing smaller batches. It is more time per gallon of beer brewed but you also won't find yourself drinking gallons of IPA on the downhill because it takes so long to get through five gallons of beer. You may not have that kind of free time to brew that much beer. Maybe you could find a friend or neighbor who is willing to split five gallon batches with you and you can get through the batches quicker.

One issue that may plague your bottles is temperature. Oxidation and other IPA unfriendly activity occurs quicker at warmer temperatures so the cooler you can keep your beer the slower the hop dropoff will happen. This is why keg beer often holds up better. It's always kept cold. Keeping the bottles in the fridge will help extend their life. You may not have open fridge space for 50 bottles so again that's another way brewing smaller batches could be to your advantage.

I'd also look at how long you're keeping the beer in between brewday and when you start popping open bottles. If you're leaving the beer in the fermentor for a month and then another month in the bottle you're getting started drinking those beers way too late.

272
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Interesting Flavor Not Use to
« on: September 06, 2015, 09:33:07 AM »
There's a really good chance that this is a chlorophenol issue which OP could rule out by addressing his or her water supply and treatment.

It could be that OP smells/tastes the yeast phenols or combination of phenols and citrus oils as medicinal.

In either case it's not an issue that is going to go away with time.

273
Beer Recipes / Re: Help dialing in a Saison recipe
« on: September 05, 2015, 08:33:49 AM »
With saison recipes (really with any recipe) less really is more. I'd challenge you to justify every ingredient. If it doesn't fit into your vision then it should go.

I generally think the chocolate malt and honey are unnecessary, you have too much munich and probably too much wheat unless you plan on addressing it in the mill and/or mash. You could go with more hops for a hoppier saison and I'd probably move the five minute addition to a whirlpool or flameout addition. But I don't know your vision for this beer and the recipe as it is may be appropriate.

I'm comfortable with the mash schedule. I usually mash my saisons at 144-146 and then up to 156. I like drying out the beer with the lower mash temperature but I usually spend more time at the beta rest and less at the alpha rest. The alpha rest, for me, is more about making sure I have complete conversion rather than trying to keep around longer chain sugars.

274
Ingredients / Re: Harvest Hops & Aphids
« on: September 05, 2015, 08:15:45 AM »
Those aphids are probably dead after getting blown with hot air for hours. If not, I wouldn't be too worried. They slurp up the sap of the plant and have no interest in the lupulin. Now that the hops have been dried out they will likely move on to look for a new plant to attack.

If you have an aphid problem at harvest then you've probably had a problem all season. That's something to look out for next year.

275
Ingredients / Re: Southern pecan porter
« on: September 05, 2015, 08:12:01 AM »
You often see nuts added in the mash rather than the boil. I think you need that long warm rest to extract the flavors. I would be concerned about the boil extracting unwelcome tannins and other harsh flavors. I would also be concerned about scorching the pecans in the boil because I assume they will eventually sink to the bottom and stay there.

I don't think caffeine content is affected by whether the bean is ground any more or less than extraction of any other compounds, including the coffee flavor. Caffeine extraction is less at cooler temperatures so it might be easier to rack away from whole beans but to limit caffeine you want to do a post-fermentation steep. If you're dead set on keeping away from caffeine then you need to go with a decaf bean.

276
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Favorite Bo Pils Yeast
« on: September 05, 2015, 07:51:30 AM »
I like 2000. It's very soft and malty but you can work the water and hops to impart crispness.

277
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: stupid carbonation question
« on: September 05, 2015, 07:39:00 AM »
It's also my approach with some imprecise addition of sugar for beers that have aged for a length of time.

IMO it's extremely important to calculate from the warmest post-primary fermentation temperature for beers fermented on the warmer side like saisons. If you calculate priming weight from a calculator with a fixed temperature in the upper teens/low twenties celsius or use whatever the present temperature is but you let fermentation wrap up closer to 30C you'll end up with one undercarbonated saison.

278
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Corny Beers
« on: September 01, 2015, 08:29:45 AM »
Miller has a really obvious corn taste to me.

Rolling Rock is surely the example of bad corn flavor in beer.

For a non-macro option I'd look to any of the cream ales on the market. Possibly a pre-pro lager if you can find one in your market with corn.

279
The Pub / Re: Pepper Plants
« on: September 01, 2015, 08:26:45 AM »
Beer is probably the best option because it's not toxic to the plants or beneficial bugs (except the ones that drown in it). It is effective with snails and slugs.

DE is another good option because it's non-toxic for the plants and humans. It will work on snails and slugs but it will also kill off other beneficial bugs, like earthworms. Every time it rains or you water you have to reapply.

There are other options like rock salt, coffee grounds and poison but whatever you put around the plant is going to be absorbed by the plant and ultimately by you. Even non-toxic options like salt and coffee grounds can be harmful to your plant even if it's not harmful to you (excess salt and acidity).

280
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Full Sail & Logsdon news
« on: August 31, 2015, 09:17:54 AM »
I don't think the Full Sail sale has anything to do with the shakeup at Logsdon's.

From bits and pieces gathered it sounds like there is a division in the direction of Logsdon's between Logsdon and some of the other investors.

281
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Brown Stain in Corny Keg
« on: August 30, 2015, 11:52:35 AM »
You might need someone with skinny arms to reach the bottom to scrub.

Ha!  I know exactly what you are talking about.  Got my arm caught in one a few weeks back.  Next time I will hold my wife upside down by her legs and let her go in for a good cleaning.

Words to live by.

282
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Belgium/West Coast beer swap
« on: August 30, 2015, 11:51:16 AM »
Deschutes Green Monster,    Double Mountain has a good hoppy one (hoplava)


Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk

I believe Green Monster was a single release and possibly difficult to find at this point.

283
Ingredients / Re: Brand new brew guy needs advice
« on: August 29, 2015, 09:08:08 AM »
I think by yeast berries you meant wheat berries. I'd say skip using raw wheat until you have more experience brewing. Raw wheat isn't used all that much in brewing and often requires some additional processes to be useful in brewing.

284
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: British Ale Yeasts
« on: August 29, 2015, 08:59:07 AM »
London Ale III, which I believe is the Boddington's strain, is a fairly neutral English yeast if you're out to avoid too much yeast flavor. If you decide to get off the English ale kick you can keep using that yeast to brew those Vermont-style IPA/APAs.

285
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: lesser known hop recommendations
« on: August 29, 2015, 08:53:18 AM »
If mosaic is unreasonably priced or difficult to find then that would be number one on the list to find. All the others listed would be great options as well.

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