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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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286
Beer Recipes / Re: tips for brett blonde
« on: August 08, 2016, 09:27:08 AM »
I wouldn't assume that beer definitely did not use any LAB along the way just because they called it a brett beer rather than sour. Often breweries avoid calling it sour unless it is full force sour to avoid problems with consumers avoiding sour beers or complaining it is not sour enough. Could have been lacto soured up front--could even just have a lactic acid addition.

287
Beer Recipes / Re: tips for brett blonde
« on: August 08, 2016, 09:23:43 AM »
Understood. But what about the aeration levels?

Same premise: adding oxygen at the start of fermentation produces clean, fast fermentations while cutting down the oxygen available requires the yeast to work harder and produce more flavor compounds. Brett is no exception to this basic premise although too much oxygen has a tendency to cause brett to rip through the beer and then stall before finishing while too little can trigger a very slow, secondary-like brett fermentation. For more flavor you can treat it similar to trappist/abbey strains by underoxygenating to the same volume of oxygen but I wouldn't go lower.

288
Sierra Nevada has one Crystal malt stocked for production. Can anyone guess the Lovibond?




Answer C-60.

What would they know about brewing consistently good beer?

289
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs Question
« on: August 05, 2016, 07:45:00 AM »
Never seen anything like that but it wouldn't surprise me to find out that vial was contaminated at WL before distribution.

Might be worth emailing WL for their thoughts.

290
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dedicated home-brew supply store?
« on: August 05, 2016, 07:41:15 AM »
There are a few dedicated homebrew shops in the larger metro area and one mixed general store-type place that carries supplies. The latter is closest to my house but has the oldest ingredients and outrageous hop prices ($4/oz cascades that are at least a year old, easily more). I don't shop there too much and when I do it's for emergency non-yeast/hops/grain pickups.

I tend to shop online a lot because it's convenient, cheaper and unfortunately tends to be better customer service. When I buy locally it's usually an online order for pickup to one of the furthest shops in the area because their prices, selection and support are better than closer options. I occasionally buy grains from the closest full-time homebrew shop when I'm in that area because they carry Avangard at a low price. Otherwise I don't particularly care for that shop. The others in the area are in areas I don't often visit.

 

291
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Adding fruit to sour
« on: August 04, 2016, 09:30:22 AM »
Congratulations on your first shower. It will be a life changing experience for you.  8)

Generally a couple months is all you need for fruit. Some fruit benefits from a longer extraction period and a few with less but the vast majority are good at two months.

292
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Location of Grain Storage
« on: August 04, 2016, 09:23:47 AM »
The main concern is the dust. That's why many breweries keep their mills in separate rooms and auger it over to the mashtun. How big of a concern can it really be at our scale? We still need to pour the grain into the tun which throws up dust.

I believe that commercial breweries are required to separate their mills from the rest of the operation as the airborne grain dust has a low flashpoint and is a theoretical explosion risk.  One local brewery that I've toured here was required to install blast proof doors on their milling room.  I know Chicago has a particularly stringent fire code, but blast doors aren't typically required just cuz their cool.

The same is true here in Dallas. Large cities with large bakeries or milling facilities are likely to have these kinds of rules because producing flour creates a higher risk of grain dust-induced fires. The same rules are applied to breweries because the local regulators do not see a difference between one type of milling and the other.

Grain is often stored in a different area from fermentation vessels in commercial breweries but that's not due to any explosive concerns. More likely because it's easier to clean that area with liquids without the fear of ruining bags of grain with water, beer, or cleaners.

On a homebrew scale I don't see a problem unless you have post-boil wort/beer exposed in the same place where milling is going on where grain dust is actively kicked up and will fall into the exposed wort/beer.

293
Spoilers...


...I just finished season four.

294
I listened to that podcast once and thought it was pretty bad. The feedback wasn't particularly insightful and much of what I heard was not correct about the style they were discussing (either to BJCP or reality).

The feedback has some value. If the beer is picking up noticeable haze from a drive then that's feedback that the brewer could look at options to clear the beer better before bottling. I mean, I have the same problem with my bottling (and could do more to clear my own beers) but it is something for him to consider.

295
Ingredients / Re: Saison Kit + Homegrown Hops
« on: August 01, 2016, 08:55:24 AM »
I use cascades a fair amount in my saisons. I really like a blend of American and European hops in the style. For a hoppy saison I target hopping rates similar to an American pale ale. For a more straightforward rendition there needs to be a lot more restraint, especially when using new world hops.

If it were me I would keep the recipe as it is but add a little cascade to the whirlpool. I'd go 0.5-1 oz cascade in the whirlpool. Not enough to overwhelm the sorachi ace but enough to bump up the citrus flavor. If you want to use fresh, undried hops instead of drying your hops first you need to use five times as much to get the same volume of flavor (so 2.5-5 oz).

296
The Pub / Re: Espresso machines
« on: August 01, 2016, 08:40:35 AM »
I'm not a big espresso fan but my wife likes it from time to time. In her head she wants an espresso machine but I strongly suspect it will suffer the same fate as most espresso machines. She'll use it a few times and get tired of the level of detail involved in making espresso and the amount of cleaning necessary each time it is used.

Last week I ordered a moka pot. It's not true espresso in a modern, machine-produced sense but will get close enough to satisfy her occasional desire for espresso while giving me another option to make a great cup of coffee. I only paid $15 for a stainless steel 4 cup Bialetti, far less than a good $1000 pump-driven espresso machine.

297
Beer Recipes / Re: recipes for 23C. Oud Bruin
« on: July 27, 2016, 09:05:11 AM »
That's my basic problem:clearly show the difference in recipes. BJCP says "A deeper malt character distinguishes these beers from Flanders red ales. The Oud Bruin is less acetic and maltier than a Flanders Red, and the fruity flavors are more malt-oriented." I'm not too familiar with this style, Flemish red is much more common where I live. So I'll have to do some extensive tasting when I get back from vacation.

I'm not sure the actual recipe distinguishes the styles as much as fermentation drives a difference. Modern Belgian oud bruins are also often just lacto and sacc so they don't dry out as much and more malt sweetness remains to oxidize into sherry-like fruit flavors with time. They tend to be stainless aged rather than oak aged like reds. You can find other unusual processes like Petrus oud bruin which is a blend of a sour pale with a clean brown ale and IMO tastes more like a red than an oud bruin like Goudenband but not quite that sweet-sour of a backsweetened red like Monk's Cafe or Duchess.

298
Beer Recipes / Re: recipes for 23C. Oud Bruin
« on: July 26, 2016, 09:03:06 AM »
In practice how different are the two styles once you discount all the backsweetened commercial beers? Most of the recipes I've seen out there for "traditional" oud bruin can also be found listed as "traditional" Flemmish reds too.

The recipe for oud bruin in Wild Brews is 70% pils, 10% caramunich, 10% caravienne and 10% corn with IBUs at 25. I believe this is based around Goudenband (which is just sacc and lacto aged in steel).

Most American renditions of the style tend to include less crystal with some roasted malts. This recipe from Rare Barrel is a good example (https://beerandbrewing.com/VeXzqR8AAEGnjsAc/article/the-rare-barrel-dark-ale-recipe).

Often the recipes that seem to have any credibility (in my eyes, at least) seem surprisingly close to English brown ales and English porters by grain bill. Even the recipe in Goudenband could have some late hops added and pass off without too much thought as a brown porter recipe.

299
All Grain Brewing / Re: Berliner Wiesse
« on: July 25, 2016, 08:59:11 AM »
I wouldn't be too worried that the beer wouldn't carbonate after just four months. It's right about that time that for me I'd start thinking about adding additional yeast at bottling to ensure rapid carbonation but you are 98% certain to get carbonation without reyeasting. It may take a few extra weeks. You may want to add fresh yeast just to remove any doubt and get quick carbonation. You could break open a pack of dry yeast and add a little (to the bucket or directly into each bottle) or if you have some slurry hanging around from a fairly neutral yeast you could add that to the bottling bucket.

I've never had a problem with acidity and carbonation myself but if adding a little extra yeast at bottling will give you more confidence that your beer will turn out will then it's a worthwhile couple of dollars.

300
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: No fermentation after 24 hours.
« on: July 25, 2016, 08:50:31 AM »
You've already received plenty of good advice. The only thing I would add is to confirm your fridge is really in the 60s. Double check with another thermometer. If the fridge is too cool it will delay fermentation.

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