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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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316
Equipment and Software / Re: Barrels
« on: February 25, 2015, 09:07:07 AM »
Brewing beer for barrels is a technique in its own right to make really great barrel aged beer. You've probably had a barrel aged beer or two where a brewery put something in the barrel that was overwhelmed by the barrel character or clashed with what the barrel brought. I'd encourage you to focus on making great all grain beer first and pick up a barrel down the road once you've mastered all grain.

317
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What kind of beer would these make
« on: February 25, 2015, 08:48:25 AM »
I tried fermenting a beer with a probiotic with a similar mix. It didn't turn out well. Not sour. It didn't taste like anything. Even the grain flavors disappeared.

318
Are there really more questions here about sour beers than hoppy beers?

319
The Pub / Re: Lots Of New Hops Farms
« on: February 25, 2015, 08:40:14 AM »
I expect to see the number of hop farms in Colorado grow considerably, especially in the northern part of the state. The buy local movement is fairly strong in the state and there are lots of breweries to buy up the hops.

320
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mash temp and thermometer
« on: February 22, 2015, 07:41:37 PM »
I use this (http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/rt600b.html) made by the thermopen people. It's very accurate and reasonably quick but not as fast or accurate as a thermopen. It's a fifth of the price but not a fifth of the quality. It's a good product. It was $19 well spent.

156 is pretty high for a mash. I'd think 148-152 would be a better range for that style but I'm not one for brewing IPAs so I'll let others come in and give you better suggestions.

There's nothing about being self-made that doesn't benefit from having allies and mentors around you. Every successful person has had people around them that they lean on. If that is the reason you have declined joining a local group then I'd encourage you to rethink that attitude. 

321
Equipment and Software / Re: Spoon or paddle
« on: February 22, 2015, 10:37:12 AM »
I have a metal slotted spoon out of the kitchen that I use with my small batch system but I have the long plastic spoon they sell at homebrew shops for my larger system. It's what came with the starter kit I got when I started brewing and it hasn't failed me yet. It's particularly good at mixing up the grain that gets stuck at the bottom rim of the cooler and under the manifold.

322
All Grain Brewing / Re: Czech Pils?
« on: February 21, 2015, 01:23:41 PM »
Yeah I enjoy decoction mashing for a bopils. It's not going to turn your pilsner into a tmave pivo but it will give you some melanoidin and an opportunity to hit multiple rest temps.

323
Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Dubbel
« on: February 21, 2015, 01:10:55 PM »
The 550/570 blend is growing on me.  I understand it to be what Ommegang uses to make Gnomegang.  It isn't a 'classic'  dubbel profile though if you are looking for competition points.  I think blending the classic strains (500, 530, 540) with 570 in general for dark(er) belgian beers gives them a little more fresh fruit character, like pears, lemons and apples, which I enjoy.  I have to believe those brighter fruit characters are present in the style when you drink them fresh at the abbey, but are lost in their travels across the pond.  Dried fruit characters seem to hold up well to heat and time.
Interesting. I was under the impression that Ommegang used their house strain (which isn't available from WL or Wyeast to the best of my knowledge) for all their beers.

Gnomegang was/is brewed with Achouffe's yeast and bottled with Ommegang's yeast. I believe it's the only beer they make that isn't brewed with their house yeast.

324
The Pub / Re: Ordered a nuc and hive
« on: February 20, 2015, 09:19:51 AM »
If you have it in your heart to become a keeper of bees you should definitely sell your excess into the local market. Even if you only have a pound or two in excess it shouldn't be that hard to find a local buyer or two who will take that off your hands. Local honey goes for $6-8/lb. at the cheapest places here.

There is a bee hive somewhere in the vicinity of my house and I get a lot of bees hanging out on my mint and basil plants when they flower. In combination with all the mesquite trees around the neighborhood there must be a hive full of unusual honey somewhere.


325
Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Dubbel
« on: February 20, 2015, 09:10:59 AM »
That much munich malt will make the beer taste malt-heavy which isn't what you want in this style. You want a malt platform for all those fruit and caramel flavors to distinguish themselves. Too much maltiness is going to drown some of those flavors. If you're afraid too much pilsner will make the beer too grainy or not malty enough then I'd replace the munich with pale malt  or a combination of pale and munich in which munich is at most 15% of the recipe.

I agree with what has been said above about needing to use candy syrups to obtain the classic dubbel character.

326
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling sour. will I need to ad yeast
« on: February 20, 2015, 08:35:03 AM »
The beer is probably three months or so old at this point. I am a proponent of re-yeasting aged beers (both sour and not sour) but this beer is probably not old enough that there isn't enough active yeast to carbonate the beer. I wouldn't worry about it myself.

327
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend? 2/13/15
« on: February 19, 2015, 10:24:42 AM »
I need to grow a starter of WY1214 to keep fresh yeast on hand. Not very exciting.

328
Beer Recipes / Re: Quincey! (Bretted quince Saison)
« on: February 18, 2015, 12:17:53 PM »
Trying to give brett oxygen to create acetic acid is a fickle process that few people really seem to know how to do well. There's an obvious risk that, as Kyle describes, you will lose some of the flavors you like about the beer in search of acidity and you may lose more than you gain. If you're really desperate to get a small amount of acidity I would encourage you to first let brett dry out the beer and see if you are happy with that and if not then add lactic acid or acetic acid (if you really want it) before bottling.

329
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Spontaneous Fermentation and Mold
« on: February 18, 2015, 12:07:18 PM »
A pellicle is not the same as mold floating on top of the beer. A pellicle is a biofilm that regulates oxygen and keeps other organisms out of the beer. Mold is the actual organism's colony floating on top.

330
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: re using "hot" yeast
« on: February 18, 2015, 11:59:47 AM »
I take 3711 up to 85-90F without problems repitching.

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