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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Classiest beer style
« on: January 12, 2015, 09:56:11 AM »
I suppose it depends on what area of Europe you want to identify and the time period. Many parts of Europe had royal breweries and beers made for the upper class.

In England there was a long history of different names for what can generally be described as barleywine that descended from the best made gruits, which were themselves very malty and high ABV. The beers that arose from this tradition carried names like October Ale, Audit Ale, etc. They would have been aged in barrels and were sometimes aged for years (I seem to recall reading they were at times aged up to ten years) but they likely would not have been aged in former liquor barrels, at least not intentionally. These were special beers brewed for special occasions and generally for the wealthy, royalty, the Church and other wealthy institutions.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Measuring Wort OG
« on: January 12, 2015, 09:43:27 AM »
I usually check first runnings and then pre-boil, preferably right before I add the hops. There is a lot of currents in the wort mixing it up so it's the most accurate reading IMO. Then I check post-boil, post-cooling but pre-oxygenation. That is your OG reading.

The Pub / Re: the quality of American sours
« on: January 11, 2015, 10:56:25 AM »
Many American sours are young and unblended, or if they are blended they are blended across vessels of the same age. It is rare to find American sours that have 2-4 year old components that are less sour or have a softer acidity. (Some exceptions would include NB La Folie and Cascade's sours.) So that is a big part of the profile of those beers. Lots of people here have a preference for the higher level of acidity so our brewers steer towards that preference.

I'm not particularly impressed by Prairie. I've tried a number of the beers and just don't get the fascination. They've had some QC issues over the past couple years with infections, rusty bottle caps, etc.

All Grain Brewing / Re: 1 gallon batches - Too much Trub
« on: January 09, 2015, 01:48:37 PM »
I brew a lot of one gallon batches but I haven't found the magic trick to deal with this issue. BIAB makes it much worse because you're not able to use the grain bed as a filter, if that is how you are mashing. Even using a traditional mash set up I don't think you get as good of filtering as you would on a larger batch just because there is less grain to compact into a filter.

One thing I am playing with is calculating the recipe to be a ~1.25 gallon batch with the intention of leaving that extra quarter gallon behind in the kettle where the wort has the most trub. I am still trying to figure out how much volume to calculate in the recipe and how much actually needs to be left behind.

Beer Recipes / Re: Cascadian Dark Ales
« on: January 09, 2015, 01:35:10 PM »
Are we talking about black IPAs here?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing for the New Year
« on: January 09, 2015, 09:34:53 AM »
I didn't get through all of the beers I planned to brew for 2014 so I have carried those forward into 2015. I have a large pile of homebrew I need to drink through so aside from those beers for 2014 I have a small number of sour beers to start on (which I won't bottle until 2016 or later) and possibly a few other beers if I drink down my current supply before the end of the year.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast in Bottling
« on: January 09, 2015, 09:31:43 AM »
If you soured your gose ahead of saccharomyces fermentation and you did not age the beer for very long then you are probably fine to carbonate without a yeast addition. However, if you soured it contemporaneously or after sacc fermentation then the ph may be too low to get good carbonation out of the yeast already in the beer. Without knowing the ph it's impossible to say.

You could add a wine yeast as insurance for healthy carbonation. Many people prefer EC-1118 because it is not deterred by high gravity or acidity. It's also not a killer wine yeast so it has a good relationship with beer. However, champagne yeast will actually impart a slight yeasty/biscuit flavor. Many people do not pick up on it as it's faint. I have bottled with EC-1118 several times in the past and don't mind the flavor too much but I have since switched to K1-V116 which is more neutral in flavor and can survive even harsher conditions than champagne yeast.

The Pub / Re: Beer brewers vs beer "architects" in Belgium
« on: January 09, 2015, 09:16:37 AM »
I imagine it vexes the contract brewers greatly because it means they can't pretend they are something they are not - a real brewery.

I'm not sure I get your distinction.  They are brewing, are they not?  What is a "real" brewery and how is it different?

The TTB will not approve businesses using any variation of "brewer" or any other term that suggests the business is brewing if they are not given a brewing permit on the basis of operation of a brewery under their ownership. That's why the contractors tend to use either "beer company" or "project" in their name. Even if you come in and help staff and manage the brewing for your contract brews you still cannot label your business as a brewer because you are not and cannot be issued a brewing permit, unless you are a brewery that is contract brewing in addition to brewing under your own permit.

Ingredients / Re: When to add fruit to beer (gose)
« on: January 09, 2015, 07:34:07 AM »
I would add orange zest at flameout.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast for pre-soured Berliner Weisse
« on: January 09, 2015, 07:26:53 AM »
I've used 05 in a sour worted beer that was down into the upper 3 ph range. I pitched a much larger volume than normal and it still took the yeast some extra time to ferment the beer out. It took about ten days for active fermentation to end. I harvested the yeast and have since reused it on a second sour worted beer and it fermented through it much quicker.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Bucket lid problems
« on: January 09, 2015, 07:21:59 AM »
I don't have a problem fermenting in a bucket. I find that sometimes the seal is good and the airlock bubbles and sometimes it doesn't. Usually the problem is that the seal in the lid has moved a little so the remedy is to check the lid before you put it on for fermentation and make sure you have pushed the lid flush with the top of the lid all the way around. That eliminates the problem of a leaky lid 99% of the time.

I haven't used my bucket for sour beer but I have had beer sit in a bucket for several months without problems.

The Pub / Re: What's your favorite thing about being a Homebrewer?
« on: January 09, 2015, 07:04:04 AM »
Cleaning out the mash tun.

Wait, no.

The creativity and experimentation.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: pH question - dead lacto?
« on: January 07, 2015, 08:09:42 AM »
Yeah you need to warm that starter up. Lacto performs better at warmer temperatures at a limit around 115-120F. I would try to get up around 100F if you could.

The Pub / Re: Jim Koch has a problem....
« on: January 06, 2015, 08:56:06 AM »
I have to admit, the beginning of the article made me a little weary of Koch.

If true and I owned the establishment I would have promptly kicked the guy out the second he tried to go in the walk in. Obviously the owner doesn't worry about a business relationship with BBC so no harm at offending Koch like that.

Ingredients / Re: New/Old hops
« on: January 06, 2015, 08:27:48 AM »
I would not hesitate to use any of the other three hops in the same manner as classic Hallertau breeds. Lagers, saisons, even English ales would be a decent fit. I enjoy using some of the less popular continental European hops in my saisons and lagers. It doesn't necessarily fit the conventional German or Czech lager profiles but they are great and unique lagers all the same.

If you wanted to be more unusual with those hops you could play around with an IPA. I've had an IPA or two with all noble-type hops. It's certainly a different take than the fruit bombs or dank IPAs popular on the market right now.

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