Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - reverseapachemaster

Pages: 1 ... 23 24 [25] 26 27 ... 199
All Grain Brewing / Re: Introduction to Low Oxygen Brewing
« on: October 23, 2016, 10:03:52 AM »
Are there any free papers or cheap books on LODO brewing?  I'm interested in the chemical reactions that cause oxidation of malt polyphenols etc. but don't want to spend $200 on books by Narziss and Kunze.  Also, if the highlighted passages above from Kunze are any indication he doesn't get into the chemistry of how oxygen causes these reactions.  Does Fix get into the chemistry?  Any free publications?  I acquired a bunch of brewery manuals and Center for Brewing Studies seminar notebooks at an estate sale last year but they are from the late 70's.  They mention possible staling from wort oxidation but also say it is speculative.  Again from the 70's.  I could do a Google search for papers but if you guys know of any it would be appreciated.

Kunze and other brewing texts might be available through circulation in a large city's public library or a large public library's ability to source the book from other public libraries. If you happen to live near a university with a brewing or food science program then they might have a copy or be able to obtain a copy on loan from another school. (Might have to slip a student a few bucks to make the request for you.)

There is a lot of research ongoing about oxidative reactions in food (not just beer). There are a number of brewing and food science journals out there with published articles on the subject. Generally these publications sit behind paywalls or are on paid databases but public libraries and college libraries tend to have at least some access so you might be able to find more useful information for free or for the cost of a library card.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Old brewing magazines
« on: October 23, 2016, 09:43:24 AM »
I love the convenience of online info but I still like reading on paper. This is especially true around liquids where losing the paper means I have the online backup and don't have to worry about getting my laptop or phone wet or broken.

I have a stack of various magazines that I periodically go through and cut out what I want to keep and recycle or toss what I don't. I generally only keep the recipes and construction tutorials out of homebrewing magazines. Eventually the recipes will probably go into a digital format (either scanned or xml) but keeping four or five pages instead of the whole magazine cuts down the storage space considerably.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: American double ale
« on: October 20, 2016, 06:51:05 AM »
I don't think this is new so much as it is among the several amorphous names used around American strong ales that don't carry a specific meaning. For some breweries it's what they call one DIPA to not have two DIPAs on the menu. For some it's an American barleywine. For others it's thrown on an unspecific stronger pale beer that doesn't fit neatly into any other category.

Wood/Casks / Re: Oak in a Solera
« on: October 18, 2016, 07:15:35 AM »
One cube is not going to do anything. You won't notice it no matter how fresh the oak. It's just not enough for an appreciable effect.

The answers to your question lie in how much oak character you want in the beer and what kind of oak character you desire (oak flavor v. rum flavor v. tannins). At some point the oak flavor will become neutral and you'll either need to add more oak or accept that this is what happens. The slat may be overkill and if it came from a hardware store it likely contains preservatives you don't want in the beer.

As an aside, I'd caution against using any kind of keg for souring beer unless you are strictly using lacto and sacc because the keg is going to do too good of a job keeping oxygen away from the beer. A small amount of oxygen is necessary to develop good brett flavor. Even using an airlock or stopper doesn't seem to be enough but opening one of the posts will be too much oxygen.

Hop Growing / Re: Drying hops
« on: October 15, 2016, 09:19:41 AM »
I would use them as is but adjust the amount up to account for the water in the weight.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Did NB sell out?
« on: October 14, 2016, 08:33:07 AM »
If true, I suspect one plan is to use the shops as another marketing arm. Now that they have several craft(y) brands and a large number of import brands they can package clone kits for sale not only in those shops but everywhere ABI products are sold. The kits advertise the beers and homebrewers brewing the beers become marketers for ABI beers. The shops can run homebrewing festivals where they pour ABI products and have competitions for brewing the kits.

The shops are also another data point on popular styles and ingredients. They can see what styles are selling the most in kits and what hops are most popular. They'll even be able to track by geography what's popular. Then they can dictate new products and where to release products based upon that data in combination with other market data.

Beer Recipes / Re: First AG Recipe, looking for some opinions
« on: October 14, 2016, 08:05:12 AM »
Thanks for the feed back everyone. I will be cutting the barley as suggested. I had read somewhere about throwing whole bean coffee (without grinding it at all) in at the last 5 minutes of boil. Apparently by not crushing the beans you don't release as much of the bitter flavors into the wort but it requires you to utilize more coffee. That's where my original 1 lbs figure came from. Has anyone else heard of this? I was also think about even just putting it in while I cool the wort to also help limit the buttering effects. Thoughts?

Grinding coffee too fine and steeping at too high of a temperature are two ways of over-extract coffee and create excess bitterness, so I suppose your process is one way to accomplish a less bitter coffee flavor. It's not the most efficient and not necessarily the process that will produce the best flavor.

A far better hot side approach would be to coarsely grind the coffee (French press consistency) and add the beans to the wort after the boil and after the wort has dropped to 200F. Let the beans steep for 5-10 minutes. Then pull the ground coffee and chill the wort down to fermentation temperatures. Doing this you shouldn't need more than around an ounce of coffee per gallon of wort.

Adding coffee cold side is another popular approach and IMO produces a better flavor, either steeped in the beer prior to packaging or as a cold brew added to the bottling bucket or keg at packaging.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Quick turn around on Bavarian Weis
« on: October 13, 2016, 07:56:46 AM »
No problem with this at all.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Vermont Ale Yeast - what styles?
« on: October 11, 2016, 08:24:42 AM »
These are all variants on the Conan strain. There's no reason why it wouldn't work across a range of pale beers of either US or UK origin. Blonde ale, Am. wheat, ESB, bitter, mild, barleywine, etc.

You mention it "won't actually have the English character" but I guess that depends on what you think "the English character" is. There are a number of older English strains that exhibit a strong peach character like Conan. Most have dropped out of use for one reason or another but if one were to troll around the commercial yeast banks they can be found.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: macro homebrew trends
« on: October 07, 2016, 07:33:05 AM »
Sour brewing is also more popular.

Way more barrels floating around in homebrewing circles, made available by more smaller distilleries using five to fifteen gallon barrels.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Castle vs Dingemans Pils malt
« on: October 07, 2016, 07:18:22 AM »
We Belgian homebrewers don't really care too much which of the two.
Oh and it's Dingemans, genitive Dingemans', and not:


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astringent New England IPA
« on: October 06, 2016, 06:09:26 AM »
How does the FG of the latter two beers compare to previous beers? Bitterness and astringency are more easily noticed in a drier beer over a sweeter one.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Castle vs Dingemans Pils malt
« on: October 05, 2016, 08:33:31 AM »
Agree that both are great but Dingemans is preferred.

This was something that started a few years ago in the midst of the homebrewing boom. Too many people were getting together and placing bulk orders directly from wholesalers and shops were complaining about losing business. So the wholesalers restricted sales to shops and pro breweries. The wholesalers realized homebrewers would create fake store names and borrow shipping docks to receive drop shipments so they've set a high bar to entry.

In addition to a friendly local shop, breweries should have at least the info on grain and hop pricing that they may be willing to share.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Progression of a homebrewer?
« on: October 03, 2016, 07:53:25 AM »
I'd suggest buying RO and Bru'n Water to learn how water will affect your beer. RO is basically a blank slate and eliminates the variables in the tap water so you can really see how the changes you make affects the beer.

You can move back to tap water once you understand the water supply. A single test will tell you how the water is on the day you took the sample. If your tap water changes then the test won't tell you very much. Some people have good tap water with a stable water. Others, like me, have terrible surface water where the water quality changes through the year requiring different chloramine loads and different levels of minerals. Some local water quality agencies will provide good data that lets you track the changes. Others just post up an annual report with the range across year.

Pages: 1 ... 23 24 [25] 26 27 ... 199