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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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676
Ingredients / Re: interesting hop to pair with cascade
« on: May 11, 2016, 02:47:57 PM »
I really like Aurora and Cascade together in a pale ale or hoppy lager. Aurora is a Styrian variant. It has a mixed citrus flavor with a touch of tropical fruit. However, unlike newer hop varieties it isn't a fruit bomb. It has some floral notes but the fruit is primarily offset by herbal and pine notes. You could easily balance the fruit with some Mount Hood.

677
The Pub / Re: How bout them Pens
« on: May 11, 2016, 02:32:22 PM »
I like RSVP for ball point but Uniball for roller ball and gel pens.

678
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Missing American Blonde
« on: May 10, 2016, 03:00:02 PM »
This is possibly the longest thread about the most boring topic ever posted at AHA.  ;)

Do blonde ales have it?

Problem solved.  8)

679
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Portland search
« on: May 09, 2016, 04:04:48 PM »
If you're in the Cascade/Commons/Green Dragon area you might as well hit Belmont Station. It's not a brewery but an excellent bar/bottle shop.

680
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: plastic fermenters
« on: May 08, 2016, 07:09:33 PM »
Mostly plastic here. The only glass I have are 4l wine jugs. No flavor faults from plastic and I have beer that's been in a plastic better bottle for about 5.5 years. If beer would develop flavors from plastic it would taste like plastic soup. It doesn't.

681
The Pub / Re: Guitar talk moved over from main forum....
« on: May 08, 2016, 06:49:37 PM »
Can I get my banged up Hondo strat rip off somewhere in this conversation?

682
All Grain Brewing / Re: New to all grain
« on: May 06, 2016, 04:22:46 PM »
That ten gallon cooler would be a fine mash tun. I agree that it doesn't make as much sense to have an unheated hot liquor tank at the top of the system. You might as well have a burner on a kettle at the top and gravity feed water from the kettle into the mash tun. I can understand the safety perspective of not wanting a flame or scalding hot water at eye level. I don't think this is as much of a concern if you use a larger wood frame over the metal Blichmann type tower where the kettle sits on very little support and would be easier to knock off.

For a gravity system the lowest liquid level of each level needs to be higher than the highest liquid level of the step immediately below it. If you don't do that then you'll reach a point where the liquid will stop flowing because the surface is even across both vessels. That's why you should build from the ground up not the other way around.

Presumably you are fly sparging on this set up. I'm not sure how much height is necessary to get an optimal sparge but I assume you need more than a few inches. I would definitely plan on a foot or more between the mash tun and boil kettle. As the boil kettle fills the wort will flow slower and can turn to a crawl if they get too close.

There are a number of plans available online to build these. I would rely on those plans rather than reinventing the wheel.

683
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Bottle harvesting Saison Dupont yeast
« on: May 06, 2016, 03:56:41 PM »
As I understand it, the Dupont strain actually has 2 strains in its blend. WY 3724 is one and WL 565 is the other (maybe Mark will chime in with some more accurate info on this for us).

I've read resources that suggest there are four strains within Dupont's house culture. Two are more flavor forward while the other two handle more of the workload drying out the beer. That makes sense if the primary flavor yeast tends to stall out because other yeast can step in and complete fermentation.

3724 and 565 are the same yeast--at least they began by isolating the same component of Dupont's culture. White Labs sells 566 which is widely understood to be the other flavor forward strain in Dupont's culture. I don't think Wyeast sells anything else out of Dupont's culture.

684
What is your water supply? It may be chlorophenol based.

See how the bottles continue to progress. If you see the carbonation increase that is a sign that there is continued fermentation in the bottle and infection is probable. You could get increased off flavors without additional carbonation from an infection but increased carbonation would definitely not be a chlorine problem. It wouldn't hurt to clean and sanitize the equipment anyway but treating for infection if you have a chlorine problem won't cure the problem.

Is there a reason why you use peracetic acid and 70% ethanol rather than the normal sanitizers used in homebrewing?

685
Hop Growing / Re: 2016 hop growning season
« on: May 05, 2016, 03:30:57 PM »
Spider mites are particularly bad this year. Sucking the plants dry faster than I can treat them. I was gone for a week and a half with no problems when I left and a full fledged invasion when I came back.  >:(

687
All Grain Brewing / Re: Cerveza recipe
« on: May 04, 2016, 02:50:39 PM »
I was looking to try a Mexican beer recipe to change things up a bit. Anyone have any suggestions for a 5 gallon recipe.  I would need to use a ale yeast because I don't have a chamber.  I have a basement that works for now.

Many people seem to question this, but have you read http://brulosophy.com/2016/02/08/fermentation-temperature-pt-4-lager-yeast-saflager-3470-exbeeriment-results/

It would seem that 34/70 works as good at 70F as it does at 50F.  He also did something similar with WLP800.  You can easily find all the commentary against/criticizing this, but I'm in a similar situation as you (basement 64F, no desire to pay for a freezer and electricity to ferment beer with) and I'm going for it to see for myself.  Four lagers in the next two months at 64F.  I will cold-crash in ice water and fine with gelatin, but no "real" lagering.

Good luck!

I recently brewed a beer using 34/70 at 64F myself. I disagree that it makes the same beer as lower temperatures but closer to a lager flavor than US-05 at 60F.

688
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Do you strain your hops?
« on: May 03, 2016, 04:02:45 PM »
I'm not fearful of hop matter getting into the fermentation vessel but I like to get some of the trub out of the wort. I go from kettle to fermentation vessel by pouring the wort so I pass it through a strainer. Eventually enough hop matter will get caught and form a loose filter that in turn will catch smaller particles. Works with both whole and pellet hops.

689
So no one did the mash test?  I was handed a lengthy weekend chore list...

This is how I will purge my carboys from now on...   ;D  https://www.facebook.com/LovehelloU/videos/1442960075769446/  Hopefully the link works. 
Whoa, that's cool as f*ck! How'd he do that?

Add 95% ethanol to the carboy and shake it up until it coats the entire surface. Then light it up.

I saw a different video with the same thing as a science experiment using 70% and 95%. 95% is definitely the way to go.

690
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Bottle harvesting Saison Dupont yeast
« on: May 03, 2016, 03:46:18 PM »
I've tried brewing with dregs from bottles of Dupont. I was never particularly over the moon about what I got. I'm not sure if that's because there's a dominant bottling strain or culturing from the bottle results in a different blend of primary yeast. I just couldn't get enough flavor out of it. I think the better approach is to make a starter with 3724 and add dregs from bottles of saison vieille and try to get the balance of yeast closer to Dupont's actual culture.

On a related note, I will probably be driving through Belgium in a couple of weeks, so if anyone can recommend the best breweries to visit I would be interested to know.

What is best is probably more of a question of what is best for you and how ambitious you want to be. Your preference for Trappist (or abbey)/saison/sour/white could easily produce a significantly different list of breweries.

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