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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Making it smooth
« on: May 16, 2015, 09:01:50 AM »
I find it hard to believe Diaego is leaving Guinness up to an unpredictable process like sour mashing. Any lactic acid in the beer is likely dosed with straight lactic acid in the kettle or after fermentation.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Spontaneous fermentation
« on: May 15, 2015, 07:59:47 AM »
I'm not sure I would be too confident about whatever bugs have found their way on to grocery store oranges. Just imagine the places they have been before they made it to your beer. I guess it doesn't hurt to try to ferment with them, but I would be sure to test that the pH has dropped as well as the gravity before I put it in my mouth.

On the other hand, just imagine the places they have been before they made it to your beer!

I once attempted to culture yeast off a peach I bought at the grocery store. I have no idea where it was grown but it wasn't local. The beer turned out very mediocre. I saved some of the slurry in a mason jar in the fridge. A couple years later I was pairing down my stock of yeast and discovered the mason jar. I figured I wouldn't brew with it again and dumped it. Only after dumping did I smell the jar and discover how stupid I had been. The smell was a glorious blend of brett funk and lactic acid. I was so disappointed that I had lost that culture. So I definitely think good yeast and LAB can be pulled from grocery store fruit even if the fruit's passengers are international in origin. Probably not coming from ISIS or al Qaeda.

Hop Growing / Re: Thinking about growing hops
« on: May 15, 2015, 07:32:49 AM »
These guys do a good job of explaining the hop growing process:

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Express Brewing
« on: May 14, 2015, 08:32:02 AM »
Hefeweizen is a great style to turn around quickly and the hefe yeast strains are such aggressive yeast that there should be no problem with fermentation wrapping up in under three days. I once brewed a hefe and had it in the bottle, fully carbonated, in ten days.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Is a scratched cooler mash tun a problem?
« on: May 14, 2015, 08:22:40 AM »
I wouldn't be too concerned. You can always resort to sanitizing the interior of the cooler if you want.

You could look at putting food grade silicone over where the scratches are or on the rim of the false bottom to avoid further scratches.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Spontaneous fermentation
« on: May 14, 2015, 08:18:58 AM »
Personally I would pull the fruit out unless you're trying to get some of the orange flavor and citric acid into the beer. Whatever bacteria and yeast were on the fruit are already in the beer.

Ingredients / Re: "Modified" grain
« on: May 13, 2015, 09:19:21 AM »
They were modified in a well.

Equipment and Software / Re: Mini-mash tun
« on: May 13, 2015, 09:18:51 AM »
Your job now is to convert all of your friends to homebrewers.

Beer Recipes / Re: Saison 2.0
« on: May 13, 2015, 09:13:29 AM »
For those with 3724 experience, about what final gravity should I expect from this grain bill?

I've always wanted to try carafoam, and Toby's recent bio post reminded me of it. But do I really need it with that wheat? If I removed it I'd likely just up the wheat malt to 20%.

I'm considering adding some Brett B towards the end of fermentation. When would be the best time to pitch this, especially considering that I'll be fermenting the beer at 90 degrees? I was thinking of transfering to secondary when the beer gets down to between 1.020 and 1.015, pitching the bret, and finishing fermentation at my usual closet temperature of about 71 degrees.

1. Mid to low single digit FG.

2. No need for carafoam.

3. Unless you are pitching a huge volume of brett--which you don't need to--I would just pitch brett at the same time as sacc. It has a slower growth curve so by the time it is ready to get fermenting sacc has already chewed up the simpler sugars and brett will be left to work on the dextrins and sacc fermentation byproducts.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxygenating Wort
« on: May 12, 2015, 05:18:06 AM »
I rack into fermentors by pouring through a strainer so all of my batches get some amount of aeration. Other than that I tend to rely on pitching a healthy volume of yeast for most beers. Most of my beers also feature a lot of yeast character and a little stress is good for producing that character. However, I do have the typical oxygen set up and use it religiously with lagers and big beers.

Beer Recipes / Re: Lagers
« on: May 11, 2015, 10:20:48 AM »
It depends on how precise you are with your ale fermentation techniques. If you already pitch healthy yeast, oxygenate and control fermentation temperatures then you have all the techniques you need to brew lagers. If you're chucking in your yeast at suboptimal rates and fermenting at room temperature then you might find you need to work on your fermentation processes with your lagers.

Ingredients / Re: RO sparge water
« on: May 10, 2015, 09:52:15 AM »
I had an unfortunate client that called me in too late who had this problem with their brewing water and the resulting beers came out very acidic. With nearly 300 bbls of acidic beer that they ultimately had to waste, the economic impact was the end for that brewery.

They could have tossed it in some barrels with brett and sold it at a premium.  :-[

All Grain Brewing / Re: Treating Sparge Water
« on: May 10, 2015, 09:47:50 AM »
I also mindlessly follow whatever Bru'n Water tells me to do.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Help with bugs
« on: May 08, 2015, 10:57:25 PM »
Give it a taste and see if you like it. If you do then toss the contents into a larger batch.

You said it had yeast in it beforehand. Was this yeast you bought? If so then you might have some of whatever was in the mason jar before in this mix. If it's sour or funky then you at least have some other stuff with it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: IPA pitch
« on: May 08, 2015, 08:35:57 AM »
The "glutton for punishment" comment was in reference to bottling beer.  I do not know many people who bottled their batches for much more than a year, and that was back in the bad old days.   It appears that you have been brewing for several years, and you still bottle.

I'm also in that camp. I've been brewing for close to six years now and still only bottle. I don't have the space in my house for kegging right now and with brewing mostly one gallon batches it isn't efficient to spend all that time and house space over 8-10 bottles of beer. I also brew a lot of beer that gets aged so being able to drink it one bottle at a time is an advantage for me.

If I brewed in larger volumes more frequently then I'd have a tough time slogging through a bottling day that long that often. Thirty minutes bottling a gallon is much less of a chore than bottling five gallons.

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