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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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Ingredients / Re: Valley Malt
« on: May 20, 2016, 07:13:52 AM »
I should add a couple things: it's $200 a share and in June and January you get 50# of base (choose pale or 2 row) and 15# specialty so totally of 100# base, 30# of specialty and they often throw in extra R&D malts. You always get the usual Munich, Vienna, roasted barley, rye etc. But you also get some cool fun stuff: cherrwood smoked, chocolate wheat, roasted oats etc., plus heirloom varieties.IMO this stuff is spectacular and a step above any commercial brands. Really an incredible value.

At that pricing it's really not too different from prices on anything at local shops unless you manage to get a discount for buying by the sack.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Suitable Sub for Mild Malt
« on: May 19, 2016, 06:47:38 AM »
I'd use vienna or just use more MO.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Help me salvage a brew
« on: May 19, 2016, 06:38:45 AM »
Acidity can mask some bitterness

I feel like those two clash like the dickens...

If we were talking about bitterness from alpha acids I agree completely. Here I think the bitterness he is experiencing is a tannin problem from the watermelon. The acidity in the fruit may help mask some of that.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: First bottling day
« on: May 18, 2016, 01:38:44 PM »
I would rather have a few less bottles of beer with less trub than a few more bottles that all have less trub.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling in Chamagne Bottles...
« on: May 18, 2016, 01:35:44 PM »
The plastic corks work but as Joe said they can be a real PITA to deal with. I've finally run through a bag I had from several years ago. No more.

You can also get natural corks for these bottles. Beware that there are different size corks and not all fit all bottles. The corks designed for Belgian bottles (the mushroom topped bottles that are falling out of favor) are larger than what you need for champagne bottles and can crack the neck of the bottle when they swell.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Help me salvage a brew
« on: May 18, 2016, 01:32:19 PM »
Acidity can mask some bitterness so I guess I understand where the grapefruit juice idea is going. I would try it out in a glass before committing to a full batch. The bitterness you're getting might not hide behind the acidity in the fruit juice. It could make the beer less palatable.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer dumb phase
« on: May 17, 2016, 08:17:41 AM »
I wonder if lagering the beer for a few days after cold crashing would skip this phase by getting a cleaner beer into the keg.

This forum is probably one of the few places that people ever openly talk about the troubles of kegging. Usually you read how bottling is nothing but problems while kegging is problem-free. That's just not true. Each comes with its own benefits and its own burdens.

I don't think sinking costs into kegging is a good remedy for problems with bottling. Adjusting your bottling process to get good carbonation is not difficult. If you want to switch to kegging you should do it because you want to keg not because you don't want to adjust your bottling process.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Nottingham dry yeast and esters
« on: May 17, 2016, 08:05:16 AM »
You have to ferment with Nottingham on the low side (low 60s or upper 50s) to get a cleaner beer. It's not a good choice for somebody without fermentation temperature control unless you are looking for that English yeast character.

I'm not sure why it would be sold with an extract kit that isn't for an English ale. Extract kits tend to be sold to newer brewers who are often fermenting at ambient temperatures. It's just not a good fit for an APA or American-style stout.

Ingredients / Re: Old hops vis. oil
« on: May 17, 2016, 07:57:07 AM »
Conversely I have very little to say on the alpha degradation but I can speak to using older hops for flavor/aroma/dry hopping. I have a fair amount of older hops hanging around my freezer that I use without problems. I have some 2013 and even some 2011.

I experience very little drop off on flavor or aroma under those conditions. More once the bags are open and more with leaf over pellet. The 2011 I have are leaf and from a flavor/aroma standpoint are probably 80-90% flavor and aroma but keep in mind that I opened those up in 2012 and they've been in a freezer bag in my freezer for about four years. So overall that's pretty good survival IMO. When I've opened mylar sealed pellet bags that were two or three years old they smelled very fresh and made perfectly fine beer. Even IPA.

Beer Recipes / Re: British Ordinary Bitter critique & suggestions
« on: May 15, 2016, 08:01:46 AM »
Concerning crystal malt in bitters, a recent attempt at a pale mild yielded a beer that fit neatly in the "special bitter" range. No crystal malt was used, but the beer did have a heavy percentage of invert no. 3 in the grist. The resulting beer had a subtle hard caramel candy flavor, without any of the other crystal malt flavors. The beer was excellent, I plan on using invert/no crystal malt in more bitters this summer.

This beer was used in the beer swap, here's brewinhard's review:

Now you've peaked my interest. Do you or anyone else have a decent protocol/recipe for making invert #3 at home? I thought I saw a recipe a while back but I can't find it at the moment.

Ron Pattinson's blog (Shut Up About Barclay Perkins) is a typical source for these recipes.

A good Central American coffee is usually a safe bet. They tend to have low acidity and bitterness with prominent chocolate and nut flavors but minimal earthiness. A higher end Mexican or Colombian would be the same. I'd shy away from South American unless it's Peruvian or a specific Colombian you've tasted and liked. Many South American coffees are good but may not give you a standout flavor you want.

Personally my choice for a coffee stout/porter would be a good quality Guatemalan, Panamanian, Nicaraguan, or Mexican coffee. Guatemalans are pretty easy to find.

Ingredients / Re: interesting hop to pair with cascade
« on: May 11, 2016, 10:18:07 AM »
I really like Aurora and Cascade together in a pale ale or hoppy lager. Aurora is a Styrian variant. It has a mixed citrus flavor with a touch of tropical fruit. However, unlike newer hop varieties it isn't a fruit bomb. It has some floral notes but the fruit is primarily offset by herbal and pine notes. You could easily balance the fruit with some Mount Hood.

Sounds great! Some descriptors I have found just seem to compare it it Northern Brewer so it is good to actually hear from someone who has used it.

I don't think it's much like Northern Brewer. I feel like that is people looking at the lineage of a hop and saying that's what it tastes like. It is a little forest-y but I think that's true of all styrian variants and a little true of saaz. It's definitely not the woodsy and minty northern brewer flavor.

Roeselare needs time. The brett and pedio in the blend move slowly and you should expect this beer not to be finished until six months at the minimum but more likely in the 12-18 month range. It will likely hit full attenuation at 6-9 months but flavor development will reach optimal levels down the road.

Leave it alone and let it do its thing.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Home Made Home Brewing Kit
« on: May 11, 2016, 08:16:56 AM »
If by brewing kit you mean putting together a recipe then I'd encourage you to stick with a pre-made kit or have your local homebrew shop put together a recipe for you for your first few brews. It's alluring to have your own recipes but if you don't understand the ingredients then you run the risk of being well off the mark from what you want.

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