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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: September 30, 2016, 07:44:25 AM »
Sorry man, but nobody here is going to believe that you know what "it" is or that your friend can make "it" without research papers, backup data and triangle test.
On a different note, 30 min protein rest.

What if he types up his conclusions in a manner that makes it look like it was published in a peer-reviewed journal and insists he has data but doesn't publish it? Or does he need vague cites to actual research for the trifecta?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: local flabby and banana ridden saisons
« on: September 29, 2016, 09:49:29 AM »
I don't think the wit yeast are necessarily out of bounds for a saison but it should not be put into a position to throw a lot of banana. Using wit yeast is fine if you're fermenting on the cooler side of saison to develop more phenols and less esters. They are probably fermenting in the mid-70s which is putting the wit strain into a high temperature and the saison strain in a medium to low temperature.

Ingredients / Re: What am i supposed to do with Celeia?
« on: September 29, 2016, 09:43:03 AM »
The flavor is pretty aggressive for a Slovenian hop. It's all lime and floral. Styrian Goldings are closer to noble hop character; celeia is pretty far away. It will be more noble if you blend it with something with a more herbal/earthy flavor like Opal. The best use for it I came up with when I bought some was a blend of celeia/aramis/cascade that I used in both an APA and a saison (with different ratios in each). Still not enough of a fan I would buy more.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Done with hefes
« on: September 27, 2016, 09:41:00 AM »
Hefes are tricky because small changes in fermentation temperature can greatly affect the banana/clove balance.

One of the things I think is often missed by both pro and home brewers with hefes in this country is making the proper ph adjustments. German hefes fall in the 4.1-4.4 range which IMO helps make the flavors stand out. I'd venture a guess that most stateside brewers are leaving their beers in the mid-4 range like most ales which can produce a flabby wheat flavor and subdue the yeast character.

The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: September 27, 2016, 09:28:11 AM »
I've added one to my favorites list: Aberlour Scotch.  I picked it up at Costco for ~$40.  Very nice!  For me just the right level of peatiness - which is to say not much.

That is right up my alley on peatiness. I really enjoy it in low levels but it easily turns from delicious to a salty iodine bath in low levels.

I hate that the local Costcos don't sell liquor. I went to one in Missouri over the summer that did and was just blown away by the quality of some of the offerings and the cheapness of some of the private label stuff which isn't that bad.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How long is your brew day?
« on: September 26, 2016, 08:09:45 AM »
Four to five hours for a typical brew day. On the rare occasion that I do a turbid mash I set aside twelve to fourteen hours. From milling to the end of sparging that is at least six hours.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Kill temp for yeast
« on: September 26, 2016, 08:05:26 AM »
Saccharomyces cerevisiae is more heat tolerant than many other yeast. Around the mid-100s they will stop reproducing but live cells will survive much higher temperatures. Most bacteria will die off with relatively short contact times with temperatures in the 120s to 130s.

Heat alone isn't enough to kill off yeast (or bacteria). It is a combination of heat plus contact time. Normal pasteurization techniques for food is in the 160s for 10-15 minutes because that is a sufficient level of heat for the requisite time to kill off most food spoilage organisms (including yeast). Mashes are typically hot enough for long enough to kill off most organisms although you aren't getting into the 160s during the mash. A simple flash of heat isn't going to be enough unless the heat is so hot that the necessary contact time is minuscule.

Beer Recipes / Re: Hoppy Lager/Non traditional pilsner
« on: September 26, 2016, 07:52:20 AM »
That hoppy lager style definitely needs a clean bittering hop even if you're throwing DIPA level flavor/aroma additions on top of it. Anything with a strong dank or pine/forest flavor should be avoided. Almost any clean mid to high alpha hop should work fine. I've had good success using Belma--not because it's anything special for that purpose but because it's just what I've had on hand.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Decline of Homebrewing
« on: September 25, 2016, 08:41:20 AM »
There may be some truth to what you say but it in no way applies to me or do I think it applies to most folks here. I never brewed beer to save money. In fact, if you factor in the time it takes to brew a 5 or 10 gallon batch you aren't saving any money at all. But regardless, I have always enjoyed brewing, from the very first batch, for the sake of the craft itself. There is just something deeply satisfying in brewing.

I don't think it applies to anybody who regularly frequents homebrewing forums. My point is that the ranks of homebrewing swelled with people homebrewing on the cheap or brewing a little because somebody got them a Mr. Beer or bucket starter set and never went beyond that. These were not people moving on to kegging or buying nice brewing equipment. They aren't the people trying to brew with expertise or refine their technique. They just wanted to have fun and brew drinkable beer that wouldn't cost as much. You can definitely homebrew cheaper than you can buy beer if you don't get into brewing exotic beers, stick to basic equipment and don't keg. Some of those people advanced into the hobby but many did not.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Decline of Homebrewing
« on: September 24, 2016, 09:33:49 AM »
There's no surprise to any of this. When the economy tanks, DIY goes up. When the economy improves, DIY goes down. Homebrewing also got caught up in the waves of everything local plus craft beer. Lots of people were going to abandon homebrewing when they could start affording/justifying $10 six packs of beer. Plenty of people got the starter kits as Christmas gifts and brewed a couple of times only to decide they didn't like cleaning, waiting for the beer, etc. You can only sell those starter kits so many times.

There is a correction but it's a good thing. What's being lost in breadth of new brewers is being made up for in depth of knowledge, experience and technical expertise.

Ingredients / Re: What do you think about sweet beers
« on: September 24, 2016, 09:09:36 AM »
Those overly sweet imperial stouts with ridiculous adjuncts are all the rage right now. Often barrel aged for extra sweetness.

Personally I am rarely a fan. I don't mind the adjuncts, even silly adjuncts, when done well but often they are not done well. I also rarely like the overly sweet stouts. Even when done well a couple ounces is enough.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Golden Strong Water & Bru'n Water
« on: September 23, 2016, 08:04:14 AM »
Match the water profile and then add acid to get into the right ph range. You will get into the ph range you want but lose the bicarb.

Beer Recipes / Re: Anise in recipe
« on: September 21, 2016, 08:06:44 AM »
Same premise with any anise-flavored spice: go easy on the addition. I'd use the low end of star anise suggestions. If it isn't enough you can always add more but you can't take it away.

Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: September 20, 2016, 08:18:35 AM »
Didn't RPIscotty brew mostly Belgian beers? If he's gone whole-LODO he'd be a good source on that info.

While I'm not going LODO, (it's hard enough brewing in my house as it is) I'm becoming sold on the spunding idea. Seems the Brits have been basically doing the same thing in a way, transferring to the cask before the primary fermentation has completely finished. Granted, they do add wort/sugar to prime the keg at this point, but the still-active yeast should be doing much to scrub O2. It'd be interesting to see how well this would work compared to trying to transfer to a purged keg.

Cask ale doesn't fear oxygen but if the goal of the transfer into a purged keg is to avoid any oxygen exposure at that point then I'm not sure still fermenting beer will uptake all of the oxygen in a non-purged keg fast enough to avoid what is claimed to be the speed of these alleged oxidative reactions.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: effect of sugar additions post primary
« on: September 20, 2016, 08:15:38 AM »
Generally the sugar addition is all that will ferment out.

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