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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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76
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Berry ale
« on: July 19, 2017, 07:34:24 AM »
Blackberries and raspberries are probably the easiest fruit to work into beer (minus racking off of them). Easy to get good flavor, can be found reasonably cheap and work into a wide range of styles. Basic American styles pretty much all work, along with most Belgian styles, pale English styles and even most lagers.

I'd suggest finding an American wheat recipe you like to use as a base. Easy beer to brew and the wheat will give you a little body against the fruit. No need to overthink the base recipe.

I'm a fan of buying fresh fruit and freezing in freezer bags to break down the fruit but there are good canned purees as well. Add the fruit and let it sit with the fermented beer for 3-8 weeks. Typical fruit volumes run 1-2 pounds per gallon but some of the heavily fruited beers (particularly sours and saisons) are running 3-4 pounds per gallon these days.

Taste once a week and when you're happy with it, rack off the fruit and package. Keep in mind the fruit breaks apart and can be a PITA to rack. Probably want to put a nylon bag over the end of the racking cane to keep the fruit pieces in the fermentation vessel and out of your bottles or keg.

77
The Pub / Re: Tipping ettiquite
« on: July 18, 2017, 08:08:50 AM »
In Miami I found several restaurants included a tip line that let you adjust your bill up or down based on service. I'm not sure how that works for the servers though. I had excellent service everywhere with the flexible tip line so I guess it does what it intends.

I like the idea of a negative tip for especially bad service. If the restaurant failed to deliver good service then why shouldn't it pay out of pocket for bad service? It expects me to pay out of pocket for good service.

78
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Brett and sour beer bottling
« on: July 18, 2017, 07:56:03 AM »
In both cases you don't want to bottle until the gravity is stable (or account for continued fermentation) and the flavor is where you want it. Gravity moves slowly on these beers so you should take tests 3-4 weeks apart to see if there is continued movement.

If there is any chance you are not at FG for the organisms in the beer then you should bottle in thicker bottles. You can prime as usual with those beers. You can add fresh beer or wine yeast at bottling. I usually do if the beer has sat more than six months as an insurance for timely carbonation. If the beer has sat for a long period it may be necessary to increase priming sugar to account for the CO2 that has left suspension. Priming calculators assume an amount of residual CO2 in suspension greater than what is normally in aged beer.

79
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP 644 Sach Trois Q and A
« on: July 18, 2017, 07:49:07 AM »
I would make a starter and pitch like you would any typical sacc strain. You could pitch a little higher if you want.

For sanitation I would be more cautious. Thoroughly clean and then sanitize with either iodophor or bleach. (Starsan is less effective against yeast.) If going the bleach route use 1 tbsp/gallon cold water. Soak 20 minutes, rinse, fill with hot water and half a crushed campden tablet for 20 minutes. Rinse with hot water and air dry. This is the process I use for all my equipment that touches brett or LAB, including plastic, with no problems.

80
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation Chamber Temp
« on: July 17, 2017, 07:53:45 AM »
Can't you fill the vessel with ground temperature water when you put the carboy in and then start the pump to circulate in cold water and slow the temperature decrease?

81
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: mold?
« on: July 14, 2017, 07:15:06 AM »
Let us see a picture. It's doubtful you have mold; likely floating yeast rafts.

82
The Pub / Re: Tipping ettiquite
« on: July 14, 2017, 07:07:49 AM »
When I've been to these places they offer food and cocktails, so it makes a lot of sense why there is a standard tip line. If you're just drinking beer and doing all the work getting beer, the server is doing so much less. There is some service still being performed (even if it is just checking to see if you need anything or refilling water). I tip but far, far less unless I ordered food or drinks prepared at the bar.

It's pretty weird to go somewhere that sells itself as a self-serve beer bar but then expects you to tip for service. These would be good candidates for a meaningful hourly wage.

83
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing for competition
« on: July 12, 2017, 10:11:40 AM »
You have to know that there are style guidelines and then there is the way judges tend to judge a style. For most styles the beers that win are going to be at the top of the range for several, if not all, metrics for the style; if not a little above them. Big flavors win.

An IPA on the low end of IBUs, ABV and hopping rate is almost certainly not winning as an IPA. That same beer entered as an APA might be completely out of the APA style guidelines but stands a pretty good chance at winning the APA category.

Look through the NHC winners. You'll find most beers fit this pattern. There's almost always a beer or two that wins gold completely out of the style metrics. You can see it on the pro level at GABF and other competitions. Lots of IPAs, XPAs, etc. in the pale ale category, pale ales in amber, etc. Calculated numbers do not directly correlate to sensory perception but this doesn't happen by accident. Brewers compete to win.

84
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Isolating Wild Yeast
« on: July 12, 2017, 09:48:39 AM »
Agree with the above posts about the airlock situation.

Don't assume based on a visual observation of a pellicle that you can determine anything about the yeast, bacteria, or assembly of microorganisms in a culture. Plenty of wild yeast (even among the saccharomyces genus) and bacteria create pellicles. Many other wild yeast produce similar flavors and attenuation as brett. The only way to know for sure would be to look under a microscope with the proper dye.

That said, not knowing what it is does not mean you cannot brew with it or produce something you enjoy.

85
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: What's in your beer fridge?
« on: July 11, 2017, 08:04:41 AM »
I don't have a dedicated beer fridge but part of the kitchen fridge is beer-dedicated. It's usually a mix of my homebrew and various bottles from my cellar. I tend not to buy too much six pack/staple beer because I fill that need with homebrew.

86
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Fermentation Temp
« on: July 11, 2017, 07:53:10 AM »
A fairly simple reason is that it gives some flex on temperature while fermentation is dumping out heat. If you have really tight fermentation temperature control you could probably set it at your desired max temperature and let it go.

This is not new advice. I'm currently parsing through an English brewing book from the early nineteenth century that talks about the need to do exactly this, for this reason. This is pre-mechanical refrigeration so they were working with the available resources. As an aside, the author suggests max temperatures for these English ales around 80-90F (pitching about 15 degrees below) during primary fermentation.

87
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Summertime beer cocktails
« on: July 11, 2017, 07:45:02 AM »
My recipe: to a beer glass 2/3 filled with beer add and gently stir in 3 or 4 oz V8 / tomato juice, a shake or two of worcestershire and tabasco, a squeeze of fresh lime juice and then drop in 3 ice cubes.

Same but never V8 and a habanero-based hot sauce rather than tabasco. Light lagers are the defacto choice but I really prefer them with an APA.

88
Beer Recipes / Re: Golden Ale Recipe
« on: July 10, 2017, 07:52:59 PM »
Are you sure the IBU is 2? That's not even enough to provide antibacterial effect. I'm not even sure that's enough to clear federal minimums for hopping rates. (Not a concern for homebrew but for the brewery that inspired you.)
The have hoping rates based on 7.5 Lbs/100 barrels. No IBU requirement.

Edit doing the math shows that would be ~0.2 Oz for a 5 gallon batch.

Edit 2 - the brewery may have really low AA Strisselspalt.

I meant those as somewhat independent points and did a poor job distinguishing them. You're right they would have to make a very late addition to get to 2 IBUs. If I saw that IBU number I'd check to make sure it isn't missing a digit. I know some breweries out there are doing 0 IBU kettle sours and dry hopping to hit the digits so it may be the correct number.

At 2 IBU, absent other antimicrobial ingredients, the beer has little protection from microbes that can create some pretty bad flavors and textures, even in sour beer. Like the 0 IBU kettle sours I know there is a stream of thought currently that approves of that process, but I've tasted enough bad sour beer to think differently.

89
Beer Recipes / Re: Golden Ale Recipe
« on: July 10, 2017, 08:32:47 AM »
Are you sure the IBU is 2? That's not even enough to provide antibacterial effect. I'm not even sure that's enough to clear federal minimums for hopping rates. (Not a concern for homebrew but for the brewery that inspired you.)

90
Going Pro / Re: Retail License Questions
« on: July 10, 2017, 08:28:15 AM »
I know a little bit about the law.

Not according to several federal judges.

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