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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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I would not expect to see any problems from protein making its way into the fermentor. Most will settle out and you can fine and/or cold crash to get rid of the rest.

I've never read anything that asserted protein affects fermentation or that it has a significant affect on flavor at the levels typical to beer.

The Pub / Re: Deschutes Asheville?
« on: May 03, 2015, 09:54:48 AM »
They've been looking to expand on the east coast for a while.

Beer Recipes / Re: German themed IPA
« on: May 01, 2015, 06:56:54 AM »
I think you need some addition at the start of the boil to get some of that more aggressive bitterness that is typical of IPA. While I enjoy the power of FWH and it will add some bitterness I find it is too smooth on its own for some styles where the bitterness is noticeable part of the beer's profile.

But I rarely brew IPAs so take that for what it's worth.

Ingredients / Re: sour melange blend
« on: May 01, 2015, 06:51:27 AM »
There's a lot of apathy towards 3278, mostly about the level of sourness. I have had pretty good luck with it (particularly in combination with dregs of other sour beers). 3278 throws a lot more funk, IMO, than 3767 and I've had no problem with acid production but it needs time.

Supplication is definitely acid-forward so maybe 3278 isn't the best option. It might have too much brett funk to replicate that beer. Roeselare would be a fine option as would the WL sour blends. I hear lots of good things about The Yeast Bay Melange as well. East Coast Yeast blends are good but hard to find.

Are you dissatisfied with the flavor of the beer? If not then FG is irrelevant.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Homebrew + sanke + EV
« on: May 01, 2015, 06:33:41 AM »
I don't understand why you need a liner in the keg except for convenience. I imagine this product is more expensive than picking up a regular sanke 1/6 barrel keg.

I think it has to be said that this arrangement could result in a lot of problems for you and the pub, including the pub potentially losing its license to sell.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Dry hop vs post boil
« on: April 30, 2015, 01:37:42 PM »
I rarely dry hop because I've been happy with the whirlpool hops. No problems with DMS and I brew a lot with pils.

One of these days I'm going to brew side by side with whirlpool vs. dry hop and see how far apart they are. Hasn't somebody else already done that?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clam chowder saison
« on: April 29, 2015, 08:25:12 AM »
Saw this from an up and coming brewery in California:

Hop Growing / Re: Centennial Hops Are Not Growing
« on: April 29, 2015, 08:11:24 AM »
It's easy to get anxious about seeing those shoots pop out (and then waiting to see cones form) but the best thing you can do right now is not mess with them but ensure they are properly watered and give them time to do what they are built to do.

Equipment and Software / Re: Good buy and help
« on: April 29, 2015, 08:09:35 AM »
I would be surprised if you could fit a ball lock connector and a dispensing port in a conversion. The space on the front of the pig isn't that big once you account for the metal ring that locks the front piece to the bottle. If you do install a quick connect fitting then you definitely need a check valve on the line because beer is going to be in contact with the gas in port until you drink down the pig.

If you opt for a bike charger then be aware that the chargers are designed to unload all the CO2 at once (to fill a bike) and it does not seal as well against the cartridge as say an air gun so the cartridge has a short shelf life. That won't be a problem if you plan on drinking through a pig in a few days (or less) but if you think you'll go through it in a longer period of time then make sure you have spare cartridges available as you'll probably find the cartridge in the charger empty before the pig.

I'd really think about the value of modifying the party pigs like this. You can pick up old 2.5-3 gallon cornies for around $40 (sometimes less) without having to do any modifications or deal with CO2 chargers. I'm not anti-party pig. I have two of them and use them like casks (prime with sugar and dispense by letting air back into the vessel). I've sometimes thought about doing one of these conversions but I haven't been motivated enough to do it.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Flat Top Black Rye IPA
« on: April 29, 2015, 07:37:57 AM »
I wonder if the east coast may have better luck with these. West coast dry IPA with tripple digit IBUs AND roast, just doesnt work for me. But something more malty and around 45 IBU with mellow roast might work.

I think you guys in the pacific northwest are still calling beers like this American stouts.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Prop. 65?
« on: April 27, 2015, 09:07:51 AM »
Your best chance at determining why a prop 65 warning is on the products is to contact the manufacturer and ask. It may be the case that a prop 65 chemical was used in the manufacturing process but is not still on or in the product. It may be the case that the manufacturer puts the warning on all their products just in case a prop 65 chemical was used in or on the product.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Belgian ale carbonation issues
« on: April 27, 2015, 08:45:32 AM »
At 10% ABV with Belgian yeast I would be surprised if your problem came from a lack of capable yeast. Given the ABV it may take longer but I don't know how long you have had the beer bottled.

Did you ferment these beers at warm temperatures? CO2 in solution is temperature-dependent and at warmer temperatures beer gives up more CO2 that would be part of the CO2 you want in the beer for carbonation. If you need X amount in solution plus Y amount of CO2 from the carbonation drops to reach your desired carbonation and you have less than X then you won't have enough carbonation. If you fermented in the 70s but not hotter then this is probably not your problem. Age can also play a factor in how much CO2 is in solution but in my experience not much of a problem unless the beers aged warm for months or aged for more than a few months.

It could just be the carb drops. I've heard lots of bad things about them.
This raises a question for me. Priming sugar calculators ask for the temperature of the beer. Should you plug in the the highest temperature it hit during fermentation? The temperature it was at longest? For most beers I ferment in low 60 s finish primary 68-72 ish, then put in a cool cellar for a few days to a week before bottling.

I calculate against the warmest temperature at which the beer has sat. That has never steered me wrong whether the highest temperature has been 65 or 95.

Wood/Casks / Re: Saving a stinky barrel?
« on: April 27, 2015, 08:39:29 AM »
That might help with the mold but not necessarily with any unwelcome and unwanted bacteria and yeast that have had an opportunity to grow in the diluted solution of water plus whatever was already in the barrel. You would have to separately deal with the yeast and bacteria to the extent you can get them fully out of the wood, which you probably cannot.

It also won't help with any compounds produced by the molds and whatever else is in there that have soaked into the wood and will not easily be removed. Remember that, just like the wine/spirit/beer that remains in the wood after it was initially drained, those compounds producing the foul odors now are also soaked into the wood.

You could try it but you might find yourself dumping the batch of beer and the barrel.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Bulk or bottle aging?
« on: April 27, 2015, 08:29:20 AM »
I don't think another month is enough time to develop noticeable aged character in the beer so it probably doesn't matter one way or another which approach you take. That may be more or less true depending upon the condition of the aging beer. That stout may need some time before it becomes drinkable because the alcohol is too prominent, the flavors haven't integrated well yet, etc. and if that is why you plan on aging another month then the method for aging isn't going to make much of a difference either way.

If you want to age the beer to develop an aged character then you need to look at a longer time frame and how you age it can make a difference. If you want to develop more of the oxygen-derived flavors then bulk aging would be better but some of the aged character will occur regardless of container.

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