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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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Some interesting products in there. Particularly the corny keg dry hoppers. Looks like you could get a lot of hops in there.

Equipment and Software / Re: Super cheap pH meter
« on: August 16, 2014, 08:41:58 AM »
I go back and forth about buying a ph meter. I would like to have it for checking my mash and the ph on my sour beers. I've also checked the mash with the strips I bought a while back and find the results on the strip sufficiently close to what Bru'n Water says, so I'm not sure whether the ph meter is a meaningful investment. Along with the meter comes buying calibration solutions and it seems the probes have to be replaced periodically no matter how careful you are with it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Roeselare Blend
« on: August 16, 2014, 08:31:24 AM »
If you have the capacity to brew up enough for your 26 gallon barrel all at once then here is what I would to-

4 wks in advance, brew up a simple flanders red recipe with 1 pack of WY Roselare.  Let it ferment out for 1 mos in primary. 

After 1 mos, brew up your 26 gallons for the barrel, rack the initial flanders red into secondary, and split up the yeast cake for your barrel beer (not sure if you planned on primary fermenting in the barrel or not).  You will have more than enough yeast/bacteria to ferment the barrel batch and the successive pitch of Roselare will get a bit sour a bit faster than the first pitch.  This will also give you a flanders red (the initial batch) for topping up the barrel or adding fruit too, etc...

I'm not so sure this is a good idea. Within a month you will definitely have plenty of lacto and sacc growth but brett is slower to multiply and pedio is even slower.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: forgot to prime???
« on: August 16, 2014, 08:29:11 AM »
If it's completely flat then you didn't prime, the caps didn't seal, or all your yeast is dead. Carbonation is a necessary byproduct of bottle fermentation. If your beer fermented warmer than you think then you will have less dissolved CO2 in the beer but that would only result in under-carbonation rather than no carbonation.

If the beer tastes sweeter than it did before you bottled it then you primed but your yeast are dead (which would mean you either poisoned them or tried to boil your beer).

If the caps come off by hand or you can twist them then the caps did not seal.

If the caps are tight and the beer is not sweeter than it was pre-bottling then you did not prime the beer. This is not as outlandish as you might think. After five years of brewing and bottling I recently forgot to prime a batch and only remembered after I had put on the last cap. Fortunately mine was only a gallon batch but I was not happy with myself.

Pop the caps, add some sugar and reseal. Or enjoy some still beer.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Membership
« on: August 16, 2014, 08:08:41 AM »
Between the mag and access to the NHC presentations that pretty much pays for the membership.

There aren't many places locally that accept the discount and I've been lazy about using it on trips at places where I would get a discount but if you travel to a beer destination you can get huge savings. The first time I went to Colorado I think between my wife and I we saved what we paid for the membership that year. I was able to break out the AHA card almost as much as I did the credit card to pay for beer.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Happening On Friday ?
« on: August 16, 2014, 08:04:05 AM »
I tapped my kellerpils last night. It's awesome. I'm so happy with it. It's more hop forward than the typical pilsner but it's not quite an IPL.

The Pub / Re: Seriously?
« on: August 16, 2014, 08:01:59 AM »
That would suck on a bike.

Yeah.  Time to get off when you see that coming!

But can you stay on your camel?

How is a scansnap different than a regular feed through scanner? I'm brain dead, so google isn't helping me.

Scansnap is a feed scanner, it's just a very good product line and easily transported. If somebody has access to a full size copier with scan-to-email function then that will be the fastest way to scan scoresheets but if you're looking for something you can use at the judging site then you need something a little smaller. I've seen some of the desk-sized feed scanners produce sketchy quality scans. Scansnap, or any Fujitsu feed scanner, will scan fast and high quality.

There are other good feed scanners out there.

The Pub / Re: Denver to Boulder in September
« on: August 16, 2014, 07:52:28 AM »
Fort Collins is about an hour north of Boulder so factor in the drive time if you decide to go up there. Otherwise you have good options in Longmont/Boulder. Oskar Blues (the tasty weasel) and Left Hand are good choices in Longmont. In Boulder you have Avery, Twisted Pine, Boulder Beer Co., Asher, Upslope. Lots of other smaller breweries in both cities.

Avery's taproom is nice and they put some cool stuff on tap. That would be my must-stop place in Boulder.

If you make it up to Longmont then Oskar Blues and Left Hand also have nice taprooms. Both usually have beers on tap that don't make it into normal distribution. I think Left Hand's taproom smells weird but there is seating outside and it's worth tolerating the smell to get the beer.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing calendar
« on: August 15, 2014, 07:44:34 AM »
The Calendar has begun... needs more beers though. Thanks for the inspiration so far.I will try and remember to share the rough draft. Still dont know what to brew in early sept to have for fall/ early winter though... I can keg for fast drinking if needed. anybody?

What do you like drinking in the winter? You have time to brew nearly anything and have it ready for consumption. Even a big beer could be ready, especially if you have a healthy fermentation.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter for Sours
« on: August 15, 2014, 07:36:11 AM »
Pitch it as is. Keep in mind that you make a starter with sacc so you pitch a healthy volume that will squeeze out any other microbe and to develop a clean yeast profile. In a sour beer you don't really want either. You want to let the lacto grow and acidify the beer while sacc builds up and any excessive ester production will be developed into tasty brett character.

Ingredients / Re: Flaked oats
« on: August 15, 2014, 07:28:04 AM »
I have always used quick oats in my oat beers. No problem.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Chlorinated Water
« on: August 14, 2014, 08:34:58 AM »
Chlorophenols take time to develop. If you are burning through batches weeks after you brew then you may be drinking faster than chlorophenols can form.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing calendar
« on: August 14, 2014, 08:23:13 AM »
Each year around November I take all of the ideas for beers I have toyed with for the past year or so and whittle them down to the list of beers I think I can brew and drink in a year. During the year I usually add a beer or two but typically I come into a year with a list of brews and buy all the ingredients I need for them. I brew a lot of small batches so I can buy in larger (and cheaper) volumes by buying it all at once. Within the list I have one annual beer I brew each December. The rest are loosely divided into hot and cold beers with some straddling the one or two patio weather months we get.

Figuring out when to brew a beer to drink it at a particular time isn't just counting days on a calendar for each step of brewing. You have to know how long beers take to become drinkable and look ahead at what beers you will want several weeks or months from now. The less you plan out the beers you want to brew the harder it will be because by the time a particular season rolls around you have forgotten to get moving on the beer and it's too late.

The good thing about the early releases of seasonal beers by commercial brewers is that you can look at the Oktoberfests and Pumpkin beers showing up in July and August and know if you want to brew one it is time to get moving on it.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My reason for signing up here...
« on: August 14, 2014, 08:08:42 AM »
Although I could do the math if I had to, I'm glad software will do it for me. I could do it but it's not my favorite part of brewing. Math is to me what bottling is to most homebrewers.

To the OP's question, like any hobby there is a strong acquisition drive that makes people want to constantly upgrade their equipment and buy new toys for brewing. There is nothing wrong with it except it lends itself to burning a lot of money. I suggest first getting a solid foundation of brewing knowledge (from reputable sources) and have some fun with it before you start trying to upgrade your equipment. Then figure out what batch sizes you want to brew and what equipment you need before you start buying stuff you want but don't necessarily need.

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