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Messages - reverseapachemaster

Pages: 1 ... 59 60 [61] 62 63 ... 132
901
Events / Re: 2014 GABF
« on: July 29, 2014, 09:23:34 AM »
Picked up two tix to the member's only session. I plan on spending other time at the special events around town.

902
Beer Recipes / Re: Eisbock help
« on: July 29, 2014, 08:12:33 AM »
Ice concentration is a function of temperature. If you can only get down to regular chest freezer temperatures (or worse, fridge-freezer temperatures) then you can pull out quite a bit of water but you'll still end up around the mid-teens in ABV. Like any other beer, your hydrometer will help you judge how the ABV is changing. Taste will also help guide whether you have concentrated it enough for flavor.

903
Ingredients / Re: Blackberries in a Saison with Brett
« on: July 29, 2014, 08:06:53 AM »
I also agree about the 1 lb/gallon ratio. I used blackberries in a sour beer at this ratio and the flavor came through nicely. The flavor isn't quite as articulate as raspberries but overall very tasty.

If you decide the one pound wasn't enough to get to the level of blackberry flavor you wanted then the easy solution is to just add more.

P.S. be prepared to siphon through a filter to keep all the broken down fruit material out of your kegs/bottles.

904
All Grain Brewing / Re: A little brown sugar????
« on: July 29, 2014, 07:55:16 AM »
American brown sugar is just plain table sugar sprayed with molasses. So there is very little actual flavor component on the brown sugar itself. If you want that molasses flavor you need to add molasses or a different unrefined sugar. You can find various unrefined sugars at regular grocery stores but ethnic stores will be your best choice to find them cheaply and sometimes unique options.

905
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Water
« on: July 29, 2014, 07:51:05 AM »
I buy RO water and adjust it in Bru'n Water. I have pretty good luck using the basic profiles for most beers. On a few beers I use specific location profiles (like Plzen) or modify one of the basic profiles. It is far and away the best water adjustment software I have used.

906
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Insurance
« on: July 29, 2014, 07:43:55 AM »
What is the term of this insurance?  Is it per event? Per year?  What about new members?

I think the idea is fantastic, but simple details like these need to be spelled out.
Agreed.

What about clubs (like ours) who have members as well as 'free loaders'. How are the free loaders accounted for? For instance, we have 55 paid members and approximately 35-50 more free loaders who are very hard to keep track of. They don't think they "use the club enough" to pay dues or declare their name/email but will come to every outside event we have (non - meeting events). What then?

Review of the actual policy language would be necessary to determine how the coverage treats these people. I would assume that, generally, they would be treated like non-member guests brought by members or guests at a public function. Typically under an insurance policy the non-members would not be protected from liability from something they do to another person or property but the club would be covered for liability to those non-members or to those harmed by the non-members who come after the club. But commercial policies are often less standardized and are interpreted differently than homeowner or personal auto policies so without the actual language it is impossible to accurately address this issue. But certainly one that needs to be addressed because this is an issue for many clubs.

907
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Upgrading Homebrewing gear!
« on: July 29, 2014, 07:29:16 AM »
You definitely need a larger kettle if you plan on doing even five gallon batches but you should really think about the maximum size you might want to brew in the future because it's cheaper to buy one big kettle now than a medium sized kettle now and a bigger one later.

You could use a fifteen gallon kettle as a mash tun and use your five gallon kettle to heat sparge water, at least on five gallon batches, but it's a set up you will probably get tired of quickly. You will need a third vessel to hold the runnings while you drain the mash and sparge. Then you will have to clean out the kettle before you can dump all the runnings back in and start the boil. You will spend considerably more time having to clean before the boil and you will lose heat in your pre-boil wort while you clean so it is less efficient in both time and money.

The huge exception there is if you have any desire to mash in the brew in a bag (BIAB) technique. Then you really only need the large kettle. You can do no-sparge BIAB all in the large kettle or you can do something more akin to the traditional set up and mash in one kettle and use the other kettle you have for heating sparge water. Then there's no need for a third vessel because all the runnings stay in your kettles and the grain is easily and quickly dumped by removing the bag.

908
The Pub / Re: Pumpkin Beers...
« on: July 26, 2014, 07:54:00 AM »
I am looking forward to fresh hop beers released in April.

909
Events / Re: 2014 GABF
« on: July 25, 2014, 07:00:25 AM »
Code came yesterday in my email.

910
Beer Recipes / Re: First Lager
« on: July 24, 2014, 08:33:51 AM »
Most lager recipes are very simple. They are a combination of good ingredients and good technique.

Many older recipes are fine but I would approach them with caution. Often the recipes were built around what the brewer could source, which may have included domestic or English crystal malts over German, which you would probably taste as out of place compared to German imports. Sometimes you'll find an excessive amount of crystal malt or roasted malts like chocolate malt. If you're picking up a recipe from the past decade or so it should be fine.

911
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Barleywine Yeast Suggestions
« on: July 24, 2014, 08:11:38 AM »
Couple of things strike me as off. That's a hell of a lot of crystal malt and that won't taste anything like an alt, though it may be a fine beer non-the-less.

My thought as well.

Something else to consider with the partigyle is that a big beer usually has worse efficiency than your normal beer so if you are planning your recipe around 70-80% efficiency you will probably hit 55-70% in reality, which may not leave you a lot of fermentable sugar for the partigyle. You can keep sparging to try to improve efficiency but once the runnings get low gravity you start increasing the risk for tannin extraction.

912
How warm was the beer in secondary? Temperature will affect the amount of CO2 already dissolved in your beer (from fermentation) and priming calculators assume you have the amount of dissolved CO2 in your beer for a beer that has been sitting at 70F. If the secondary got much warmer than that then you likely lost some of that CO2 and needed to prime with additional sugar.

However, your beer may just need a few extra days to finish carbonating.

913
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brett / Black IPA mash pH?
« on: July 24, 2014, 07:55:13 AM »
Brett won't care about your IBUs.

914
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Off looking beer
« on: July 24, 2014, 07:53:13 AM »
Most likely hop oils.

Many bacteria and wild yeast form pellicles, which can look like different kinds of film on the beer but they won't form that quickly and certainly not in beer swirling around your bottling bucket.

915
All Grain Brewing / Re: troubleshoot my too-bitter North German Pils
« on: July 23, 2014, 07:13:14 AM »
Is the AAU on the package of the hops around the same number as what you normally buy? Some crops are higher in alpha and that could easily produce a beer with more bitterness.

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