Unless that beer is overwhelming you with honey flavor I would use half as much honey malt.
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The only thing about malt extract for starters that is important is to use unhopped extracts.
So I looks at my red baron wing-capper. The crown head isn't removable. However I looked at the metal plates that grip the neck and interestingly enough they are stamped 26mm and 29mm and are reversible apparently.
A decent tug with the vice grips and they slide out fairly easily.
Tried an old Leifmanns cap that's full of dried epoxy and it fits partway into the crown head. Wish I had one to try on a bottle itself.
Any ideas about this?
On more than one occasion the cork has ripped itself free of the bottle after the cage was removed and then set aside for a couple minutes. Once was in the fridge.
Good to know about the caps. But, does a regular wing-capper work?
You need a 29 mm crownhead, like this one, instead of the (European?) standard 26 mm: https://www.brouwland.com/en/our-products/brewing/beer-bottles-crown-caps/crown-cappers/accessories/d/crownhead-inner-thread-29-mm-for-emily-fiw#.VRKwWxdPZuZ, and, of course, 29 mm caps.
No mention of gravity readings in this whole thread. Are we assuming?Sorry about that. Yes, gravity readings are used to determine the process of fermentation and when it's complete. I assumed that was what most, if not all, of us did, so I was more curious about temperature control with regards to a warming schedule, if any, was used.
The wasps have been out in force too. I usually leave them alone unless they become a nuisance or take up residence in my tool shed. That elicits a rapid response as the only time in my life that I've been stung is in there...