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Messages - chadchaney97

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16
All Grain Brewing / Re: Need Some Serious Help
« on: March 27, 2013, 09:37:02 PM »
This was my second shot at the water modification, so I appreciate the clarification on the competing components.  I am drinking one of the latest IPA's right now, and it's getting better than some of the last ones.  I am thinking oxygenation is a factor as well, I don't know why I never thought of that!  Thinking now about drilling a hole in a spare corny keg lid and fermenting in there and then I could push to another with zero oxygen exposure.  I read in Mitch Steele's book about getting the beer off the trub as soon as possible and that is why I tried the secondary thing for a bit, but I think I might go back to primary only and eliminate a racking step.  As for the amount of boil trub in the fermentor, I get plenty, especially in hoppy beers that use pellets, I just try to minimize.  I also forgot to mention that last time I used yeast nutrient as well. 

     I am thinking this time lowering gravity to around 1.050 or maybe lower and tryng something on the edge of a pale ale, session IPA, IPA.  I get some hops in this beer, just not the flavor and clarity I am looking for.  I wonder if I lower gravity and increase my hops to say an ounce @60, 3oz @ 10 ins, 3 oz @ flameout and dryhop with 4 oz if I might get a better result?   I have had several comments that say I should go all RO water and just add small amount of gypsum to the mash, is that worth trying?  Thanks for chiming in, I appreciate the help. 

17
All Grain Brewing / Re: Need Some Serious Help
« on: March 27, 2013, 03:13:41 PM »
here are more details:

Details-

     My system is a 10 gallon cooler with false bottom, good ol turkey burner, and a 10 gallon SS pot with bazooka tube.  I have a plate chiller, but in the winter I use my immersion chiller.  I crush my own grains with a monster mill, could the crush being to fine be an issue w tannins?  I use Beersmith for all my recipes and Bru'n water for additions.  I just bought a ph meter but I have not used it yet.  Per Bru'n water my ph was 5.3.  I also have been using RO water with salt additions  but I have used tap and straight RO with very similar results.   The beers I have made with tap/RO that are not hoppy have had no sign of this issue.  I have 5 batches of sours going for about 6-7 months and they are tasting awesome, my dunkelweisse is nearly perfect, as w my wit, etc. 

On brewday I crush while my MT and water heat and then I mash in, usually half the grain then water then grain, etc.  I usually shoot to mash around 152ish and am pretty close.  Mash for 60 mins, drain and then batch sparge, although I have fly sparged as well.  I have added near boiling water, 168 water, 180 water and all have the same(or extremely similar) results.  I vourlaf until the wort is consistently clear, usually still some floaters, but as clear as I can get on this setup.  Add the sparge water stir like crazy, wait 10 mins or so and repeat the vourlaf and drain.  I boil for 60 mins.  and have no issue getting a nice hard boil, after a good hot break I add the 60 min hops and then go as the recipe follows.  I mostly use pellets.  I whirlpool for a little bit after flameout hops the best I can, screen and thermometer in kettle make it a little tough, but it works some.  Chill like normal and drain, I have been running a bit of wort out right away and hen as it is clear moving the hose to carboy to collect.  I use a fishpump setup to oxygenate and then pitch yeast.  I chill to right around 60-65 depending on temps in my basement and I pitch the appropriate amount of healthy yeast, per yeast calc.  I use mostly liquid yeast and make starters with a stirplate, I have used a ton of different yeasts, and all seem to have the same result in this situation.  Although I am leaning toward British/London ale lately.  I ferment as close to recommended temps as I can using a swamp cooler, but generally my basement allows me to get within a few degrees and hold it. I have tried leaving the beer in the primary for the duration including dry hops, but lately have been racking as soon as the bulk of primary fermentation is over to get it off the trub and then dry hopping.  Dry hops are at room temp for a minimum of 5 days and I have gone as long as 10, similar results.  I rack using an autosiphon into the carbot for dry hops and then into the corney keg to be purged and sealed. 

     I have used Centennial, Simcoe, Amarillo, CTZ, Warrior, Chinnok, etc.  I just got a fresh 6 oz. each of Simcoe, Mosaic, Cascade and Citra, all from HopUnion ordered for me from my new supply guy, stored in a cooler(like a reach in cooler) for 2 days until I put them in the freezer. 

I am not careful about post fermentation oxygen pick up, I use the autosiphon and go right into keg or carboy.  As for yeast, I figure what I need for the gravity and then make an appropriate starter. 

Last recipe was this:

7lbs Marris Otter
4lbs Briess Pale Ale Malt
8oz Acid Malt
8oz C40

.60oz CTZ @ 60min
1 oz Amarillo @ 15
1oz Simcoe @ 10
1oz Amarillo @ 5
1 oz Simcoe @ 0
Dry hop oz each for 6 days

MAsh salts-  4.4g gypsum
                   2.2 Cal Chloride
                   1.1 pickling lime

                    8.4g gypsum
                    3.3 cal chloride
last 2 in the kettle after sparge

nailed preboil gravity and SG. 

That is all I can think of for now.  I am not sure what variable to attack.  I plan to brew this Friday as the weather here (Carroll, Iowa) is turning awesome.  I have the above hops and some Nugget, Summit and random Germans.  I have a ton of malts to choose from, thinking of dropping the C40 in lieu of some lt or dk Munich.  Thinking I will bitter with CTZ and then use Simcoe and Cascade.  I was thinking I would measure every variable I can this time, mash temps, ph, sparge temps, etc.  Although I do not think it is that since the rest of the beers are solid.  I mean the dunkel weisse  was so good I have made it 3 times in the last 3 months, lol.  I can't seem to wrap my head around what the issue is here other than these; water chemistry, hops-old, amounts, etc, and now oxygenation.  I do have about 10 unused corneys right now and some spare time and I want to get this figured out so I can drink IPA all the time. 



Denny, any idea?

18
All Grain Brewing / Re: Need Some Serious Help
« on: March 27, 2013, 03:07:04 PM »
Repo- 
     I already use all RO water and I am not looking to throw a bunch more hops into a beer that is going to suck.  the problem is not the amount of hop flavor as it is more the hop flavor is off.  If it was a pale ale like tasting beer, I would gladly just add more hops.  I pitch appropriate yeast per yeast calc and fement in a swamp cooler until the bulf of primary fermentation is done and then move to 2ndary for dry hop usually 2-3 weeks total.  Although I have gone as far as 4-5 weeks. 

     I appreciate the ideas, just not sure I want to start tossing a ton of hops into the beers until they are better flavored.  Even if they were not hoppy enough but clean I would consider that a win at this point. 

19
All Grain Brewing / Re: Need Some Serious Help
« on: March 27, 2013, 08:28:41 AM »
This is the recipe I tried this last time, and I used Bru'n water to calculate my water additions.  It is a bit better, but still not even close to a good IPA.  I notice this time there is not enough bitterness, just a taste i have a hard time identifying, like it is dirty, I almost get a celery seed like flavor and the aroma is seriously lacking.  I don't know what to do next!  I brewed a Kolsch 2 days after this and it is almost perfect, so I am confused what the variable that is ruining these IPA's could be. 

I just ordered some new hops from HopUnion; Cascade, Simcoe, Mosaic and some other randoms.  I am going to try one more time with new hops and see what I get.  I added salts to my mash, and then to the kettle, per the Bru'n water sheet, I do not have them handy, but Martin did email me and say it looked good.  Can I adjust the mash with salts and then use straight RO water for the sparge? 
Test Batch (IPA) 2
American IPA
Type: All Grain Date: 2/8/2013
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal Brewer: Copper TrÖff
Boil Size: 8.41 gal Asst Brewer: 
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: My All grain Setup
End of Boil Volume 7.28 gal Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 5.00 gal Est Mash Efficiency 91.6 %
Fermentation: Ale, Single Stage Taste Rating(out of 50): 30.0
Taste Notes: 
Ingredients
 

Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
7 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 58.3 %
4 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 33.3 %
8.0 oz Acid Malt (3.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.2 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 4 4.2 %
0.60 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [15.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 25.1 IBUs
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.20 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 6 11.2 IBUs
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.20 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 7 12.2 IBUs
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 8 4.5 IBUs
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.20 %] - Boil 0.0 min
 

Looking to brew on Friday, any help would be great.  Any ideas on that odd flavor or what is causing the lack of aroma and flavor?  I did dry hop for 6 days with 2 ozs. 

20
All Grain Brewing / Re: Need Some Serious Help
« on: March 19, 2013, 08:14:44 AM »
Well, I kegged it up and seem to have the same results, a little better beer, but not good by any means.  the hop flavor is seriously lacking and still has that dirty muddled taste to it.  I am really lost here, I love hoppy beers and can't get anything decent in my area without a 1 hr drive and this is killing me.  Only been on co2 for 2 days, so i will continue to taste, but this is headed in the same direction of all the other IPA's I make. 

    Could it be from the force carbing or maybe my crush?  If I have to much flour maybe getting a lot of tannic acid?  Anybody want to help me figure this out again?

21
Beer Recipes / Re: Black IPA
« on: March 17, 2013, 08:50:08 AM »
Good to know, I am brewing today, so I think for this time I will just add them to the mash for the last 10 Min.  What water profile am i shooting for here?

22
Beer Recipes / Re: Black IPA
« on: March 17, 2013, 08:13:23 AM »
how long do i cold steep them, will that affect gravity?

23
Beer Recipes / Black IPA
« on: March 16, 2013, 12:19:39 PM »

What do you think guys/gals? Looking for some roast but not over the top. I am worried a bit about the BU-Gu ratio, 1.36 too high? I was thinking of throwing some more hops in at whirlpool too. What about water profile from Bru'n water for this, regular pale ale profile of something else?






American IPA
Type: All Grain Date: 3/16/2013
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal Brewer: Opposition Brewing Co.
Boil Size: 8.41 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: My All grain Setup
End of Boil Volume 7.28 gal Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 5.00 gal Est Mash Efficiency 91.6 %
Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage Taste Rating(out of 50): 30.0
Taste Notes:
Ingredients


Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
10 lbs Pale Malt, Golden Promise (Thomas Fawcett) (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 80.0 %
1 lbs Carapils 6-Row (Briess) (1.3 SRM) Grain 2 8.0 %
8.0 oz Chocolate Malt (450.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.0 %
8.0 oz De-Bittered Black Malt (Dingemans) (550.0 SRM) Grain 4 4.0 %
8.0 oz Munich 20L (Briess) (20.0 SRM) Grain 5 4.0 %
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 35.1 IBUs
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 7 21.3 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 8 6.7 IBUs
1.00 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 9 12.7 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 10 2.7 IBUs
1.00 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 11 0.0 IBUs

24
All Grain Brewing / Preboil Gravity off
« on: March 16, 2013, 11:49:11 AM »
My preboil OG is consistently off by about 10, example 1.040 is 1.030, etc.  Always seems to roll this way, nay ideas?

25
Going Pro / Re: Dumb question about tanks
« on: March 16, 2013, 11:47:35 AM »
Thanks guys, that is exactly the formula and information I needed!

26
Going Pro / Dumb question about tanks
« on: March 14, 2013, 09:09:01 AM »
Ok guys, bear with me, trying to learn as much as I can here.  How do I decide the amount of tankage( ferms, bright, serving) that I am going to need for a particular system?  Does it come down to bbls brewed, how many beers on rotation, etc.  I can't really seem to find a routine formula or thought, is there such a thing?

27
Going Pro / Re: Starting a brewery
« on: February 26, 2013, 04:10:42 PM »
     I agree with the money being out there for the right situation.  I approached a banker (owner) friend about what it would take to finance the opening of a brewery here in rural Iowa and the things he pointed out as most important were: a solid professional business plan with a clear vision and clear estimates of cost vs profit, and some personal (whether it be personal or seem personal like from a family loan, etc.) capital to secure the loan.  After talking to the SBA in my area, there are a ton of services available from them for free, they did almost all of our market research for no cost, will review and help tweak the business plan and visit banks with us.   
     I started putting together all the ideas I have been recording for the last several years into a business plan and it is mind numbing.  Every time I think I have all the costs figured out i think of another needed item or cost.  I am at an advantage, I have a $75,000 angel investment to help me along, but the price to open a 7bbl brewpub (cans for small distro, tapas for food) is amazing.  More amazing than that is trying to come up with projected numbers fro your first year open! 
     I am going to business school as I put this together, so I have a lot of resources, but it is still an extremely daunting task.  Any experienced folks who want to help would be LOVED, lol. 
    I think I have an untapped (no pun intended) market here, all the craft folks have to drive an hour to 2 hrs. to a larger city to hit a brewpub or get decent craft.  I was a beer club organizer for 2 years here and I am confident I can sustain and grow right off the bat, but getting open seems to be the hardest part, right now.

28
All Grain Brewing / Re: Need Some Serious Help
« on: February 15, 2013, 11:58:40 AM »
Well I brewed on Monday, used RO water and added back some salts per bru'n water so we will see how this batch turns out.  Used a very simple recipe;  marris otter/2 row blend, acid malt and some c40, hops @ 60, 15, 10, 5, 0.

As for the hose, good point, although the water tastes fine out of the hose, bought a brand new one just for brewing. 

I do not want to add more hops at this point, I feel like that would be a waste, it is not that the beer isn't hoppy enough, although that is part of it, it is that the flavor is not right, very dirty and muddled.

29
All Grain Brewing / Re: My First Batch Sparge
« on: February 11, 2013, 09:06:12 AM »
So are most of you batch spargers adding your water at higher temps than 168?

30
All Grain Brewing / Re: Need Some Serious Help
« on: February 09, 2013, 08:47:31 PM »
Thanks for the reply guys!  Really frustrating, as the rest of my brews are really nice, some are excellent.  I have sent my water off to be tested, just awaiting the report.  I used to have Bru'n water, just downloaded the new version.  As for the boil volumes and gravity, I added the sugar in the recipe in the last 5 minutes of the boil if that makes a difference, so it would not be in the preboil sample. 

As for Bru'N water, so I just start with a water value of 0 in everything fro using RO in the new version?

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