Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - chadchaney97

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4
31
All Grain Brewing / Need Some Serious Help
« on: February 09, 2013, 03:01:05 PM »
WARNING- this will be a long post, but please stick with me, I need some help!

OK, I have been brewing all grain for over a year now and I am trying to fine tune what is going on in my system, mostly because I cannot brew an IPA that even comes close to anything commercial, not even a poor example.  I have discovered that I am not a fan of Centennial ( I know, who can believe it) and maybe Columbus too, I don't like the "dirt or grassy" taste I get from them.  My IPA's all taste similar, bland, no hop pop or generally muted and sometimes dirty.  I am using quality, well stored hops from Hop Union so I have eliminated that as an issue.  I have tried using plain RO water and my tap(hose) water ( which I have sent off to Ward labs) and neither seems to make a huge difference int he finished beer.  The only information I can find online about my water is that is has a hardness (average) of about 400.  I can brew most other styles I try with very good-excellent results, so I am not convinced the water is the answer. 

     I brew in a 10 gall rubbermaid cooler with a false bottom, 10 gall stainless brew pot with the bazooka screen, and have the ability to fly or batch sparge.  I usually batch sparge by draining the tun, then adding 2 different sparge additions at 168F.  I use beersmith and have graduated a carboy, kettle and my water jug.  I am set in BS at brewing 5.5 gall batches with 5 gallons going into the fermentor and usually hit that with no problem.  I also USUALLY hit my OG or come extremely close.  Oh, I also vourlaf at each time needed, but I never seem to get as clear as I would like, can always see some med-larger particles sneaking through.  I use a plate chiller in the warmer months, but switch to an immersion in the winter.  Regardless, I add wirfloc and whirlpool the best I can, a little hard since the temp probe in my kettle sticks on a bit. 

     Here is the last batch I brewed, which I just kegged and tasted yesterday.  Has potential, but even after dry-hopping for 4 days at about 70Fish with 2 oz of Simcoe, I have to really try and dig out the aroma and flavor of Simcoe. 
Test Batch 1 (IPA)
American IPA
Type: All Grain Date: 1/15/2013
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal Brewer: Copper TrÖff Brewing 
Boil Size: 8.01 gal Asst Brewer: 
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: My AG Setup
End of Boil Volume 6.76 gal Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 5.25 gal Est Mash Efficiency 77.6 %
Fermentation: My Aging Profile Taste Rating(out of 50): 30.0
Taste Notes: 
Ingredients
 

Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
11 lbs Pale Ale Malt 2-Row (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 1 69.8 %
3 lbs Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 2 19.0 %
12.0 oz Munich 10L (Briess) (10.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.8 %
8.0 oz Carapils 6-Row (Briess) (1.3 SRM) Grain 4 3.2 %
8.0 oz Corn Sugar (Dextrose) (0.0 SRM) Sugar 5 3.2 %
0.75 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [15.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 31.3 IBUs
0.50 oz Centennial [12.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 7 10.4 IBUs
1.00 oz CTZ and Simcoe Blend (2/3 Simcoe) [13.73 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 8 13.7 IBUs
1.00 oz CTZ and Simcoe Blend (2/3 Simcoe) [13.73 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 9 7.5 IBUs
1.00 oz CTZ and Simcoe Blend (2/3 Simcoe) [13.73 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 min Hop 10 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [35.49 ml] Yeast 11 -
1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [15.20 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 12 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Simcoe [14.10 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 13 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Simcoe [14.10 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [15.20 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 16 0.0 IBUs
 
Beer Profile
 
Est Original Gravity: 1.070 SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.074 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.6 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 8.5 %
Bitterness: 62.9 IBUs Calories: 249.7 kcal/12oz
Est Color: 6.2 SRM


I tried a Hopstand on this one, the last oz of hops sat for 45 mins and then I whirlpooled and chilled, trying to get as much aroma and flavor as possible.  My number were as follows:

1st runnings   1.074
2nd runnings  1.052
3rd runnings  1.028
Preboil  1.049
OG     1.074
My mash eff was 66.7%
total eff was 62.7

I used an appropriate sized starter of WL001 and aerated the wort, had active ferm in 2 hours and held at about 69-70 until initial ferm was over, then rack onto dry hops.  At tasting yesterday; hop character was muted, a bit of that Centennial dirty but not as much as usual, aggressively bitter and nearly no hop aroma, really disappointed. 

I am looking to brew again on Monday, another IPA(till I get it right!) and could use some help.  Thinking of going back to the RO water, so cold here that it takes a while to boil tap water before I brew, and maybe treating it.  thinking of just adding some Gypsum to the RO? 

     I am wondering if I do not have my system dialed in correctly and that is causing me to get to many IBU's in the beer causing the bland, muted and mostly bitter flavor?  Oh Yeah, I have my own mill too and may try a double crush this time too.  Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!  Or else I am back to making Berliner Weisse, Wit's and Dunkelweisse, lol.,.

32
Going Pro / Re: Cans
« on: February 08, 2013, 11:07:44 AM »
Anybody have a direct contact they would like to share for Wild Goose, they don't seem to be responding the autoform on their website.  Thanks..

33
Going Pro / Recipe Scaling
« on: January 30, 2013, 01:43:43 PM »
From what I have read, it is not as easy as just doubling or multiplying your ingredients for the new size of the brewing equipment.   Any good resources of information on this, looking at going from 5 gallon batches to 7-8.5 barrel. 

34
Going Pro / Cans
« on: January 29, 2013, 03:52:44 PM »
Looking for some information on canning lines if anyone has some good places or recommendations.

35
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA recipe thoughts plz!
« on: January 16, 2013, 03:14:19 PM »
Ok, sounds like I am making some progress here!  let me throw a wrench in the mix, what if I replace the Cascade with CTZ?  Just realized I am out of Cascade and do not have time (live in a small rural town) to get more, but I have plenty of CTZ.  I realize this will change the flavor profile, but I usually get some nice dankness from CTZ and that change would be ok with me. What do we think?

36
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA recipe thoughts plz!
« on: January 16, 2013, 11:07:54 AM »
Ok, first off, I like the addition of the wheat, I have been using it in all my IPA's, kind of lends a flavor and mouthfeel similar to Tow Hearted and the Pale Ale malt has been working nicely for me in my SMaSH batches so I want to stick with that right now.  I thought about using some crystal or lt. Munich for color, but I can never really dial int he right amount.  I might ditch the carapils, but the little extra body can't hurt right?  As for my water, I have no idea, lol.  I was using RO water and building it up a bit, but I switched to my local water and have really nice results so I am running with that right now as well.  I do have some out for testing though. 
 
For the hops:

I love Centennial, I just think too much leads to that grassy flavor, so I am trying to strike a balance out some of the flavor and aroma while minimizing the negative contributions. 

As for the AA's for the hops, I have not changed that in Beersmith yet, should I just average the 3 hops together and then use that value?

I have never done a hopstand before, is that just tossing in the hops at flameout and steeping them for 45 mins?  I was planning on tossing in the "aroma" hops/flameout out hops in and steeping for 20 mins and then whirl-pooling for 10 and then cooling.   Should I leave them in for 45 mins and then whirl-pool and chill?

Dry hops, to many, I have never done the 2 step addition before but I want the aroma to be pretty bold.  As for the aroma I am going for, a mix, lol, love the aroma of Simcoe and Centennial so I guess some of that dank, catty, floral goodness. 

Do you think once I adjust the AA's I should add a small charge @ 30 mins. or so to up the IBU's a bit, they seem a bit low as of now..

Thanks everyone.

37
Beer Recipes / IPA recipe thoughts plz!
« on: January 15, 2013, 10:23:18 PM »
I am searching to make a great IPA and always seem to get a really grassy almost dirty flavor in mine. I tried a few SMaSH batches and have come to the conclusion it is from the Centennial hops. I also taste this in Stone IPA and Founders Centennial IPA, I do not dislike the flavor entirely, I just want to minimize it but still keep that awesome aroma and flavor from the Centennial. I have also really scaled back my bittering charge and stepped up the late additions. Would you mind taking a look and telling me what you think?

Test Batch 1 (IPA)
American IPA
Type: All Grain   Date: 1/15/2013
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal   Brewer: Copper TrÖff Brewing
Boil Size: 8.01 gal   Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min   Equipment: My AG Setup
End of Boil Volume 6.76 gal   Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 5.25 gal   Est Mash Efficiency 76.8 %
Fermentation: My Aging Profile   Taste Rating(out of 50): 30.0
Taste Notes:
Ingredients

Ingredients
Amt   Name   Type   #   %/IBU
12 lbs   Pale Ale Malt 2-Row (Briess) (3.5 SRM)   Grain   1   73.8 %
3 lbs   Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM)   Grain   2   18.5 %
12.0 oz   Munich 10L (Briess) (10.0 SRM)   Grain   3   4.6 %
8.0 oz   Carapils 6-Row (Briess) (1.3 SRM)   Grain   4   3.1 %
1.00 oz   Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min   Hop   5   38.4 IBUs
1.00 oz   Cascade/Centennial/Simcoe Blend [7.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min   Hop   6   7.5 IBUs
1.00 oz   Cascade/Centennial/Simcoe Blend [10.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min   Hop   7   5.5 IBUs
1.00 oz   Cascade/Centennial/Simcoe Blend [14.10 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 min   Hop   8   0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg   California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [35.49 ml]   Yeast   9   -
1.00 oz   Cascade [7.50 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days   Hop   10   0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz   Simcoe [14.10 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days   Hop   11   0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz   Simcoe [14.10 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days   Hop   12   0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz   Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days   Hop   13   0.0 IBUs
Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.070 SG   Measured Original Gravity: 1.046 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.014 SG   Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.3 %   Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.7 %
Bitterness: 51.3 IBUs   Calories: 151.6 kcal/12oz
Est Color: 6.5 SRM   
Mash Profile

Mash Name: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge   Total Grain Weight: 16 lbs 4.0 oz
Sparge Water: 4.88 gal   Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F   Tun Temperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE   Mash PH: 5.20
Mash Steps
Name   Description   Step Temperature   Step Time
Mash In   Add 20.31 qt of water at 163.7 F   152.0 F   60 min
Sparge Step: Batch sparge with 2 steps (0.88gal, 4.00gal) of 168.0 F water
Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Bottle   Volumes of CO2: 2.3
Pressure/Weight: 4.12 oz   Carbonation Used: Bottle with 4.12 oz Corn Sugar
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 70.0 F   Age for: 7.00 days
Fermentation: My Aging Profile   Storage Temperature: 65.0 F
Notes

Hop blend to be equal parts Cascade, Centennial and Simcoe.
2 separate dry hop additions, each 5 days, pull the first one and replace with the 2nd one, use the Centennial batch 1st, trying to minimize grassy, dirty taste.
The 0 minute hop addition will be steeped for 20 mins and then I will whirlpool(manually) for 10 mins before cooling.

38
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Berliner Weisse fermentation help
« on: January 15, 2013, 02:41:06 PM »
It is down to 1.010-1.008 so pretty much done.  I must not have sanitized the carboy all the way between batches because the beginnings of a pellicle are forming.  Tastes really nice and I think I am going to keg it soon and try another one!  Do I need to boil the wort after souring or just pitch and wait?  Also, should I make a big starter to pitch?

39
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Berliner Weisse fermentation help
« on: January 14, 2013, 11:23:09 AM »
I don't think I missed it, but I guess I could have.  I did re hydrate the US05 first, and I will check gravity as post back later today, thanks!


40
Yeast and Fermentation / Berliner Weisse fermentation help
« on: January 14, 2013, 08:54:14 AM »
I am making my first BW and having an issue with the fermentation, or lack of actually.  I did an AG 5.5 gallon batch like normal, racked to carboy and added Pilsner malt and soured for 4 day.  I then pitched WL San Diego Super and after 48 hours had zero activity.  After consulting with some folks, I racked into kettle and boiled for 20 mins or so, cooled and then re-pitched with a fresh pack of US-05.   It has been nearly another 36 hours and still nothing.  Can anyone help me out, what do I need to do here, add more yeast, nutrient, etc?  Thanks in advance. 

41
Beer Recipes / 1st Berliner Weisse, a little help?
« on: December 05, 2012, 10:30:33 AM »
Ok, I know, another BW thread, but since there are so many different variations, I just want some reassurance. I am down to one Crabtree BW and am not headed back to Co. anytime soon so I thought it is finally time to brew this up.
Planning on something along the lines of OG 1.035 or so FG 1.007ish, close to 50-50 wheat and Pilsner malt, and .5 oz of noble hops. Not really sure on the water to grain ratio as I plan to do the full sour mash for 48 hrs (cooler tun) and would like to be able to add small amounts of boiling water to the mash to heat it if needed. I also have a brew-pad that I am considering using to try and maintain the temp, not sure if it will even work with the cooler? Also, what is the best temp to mash in at? with this type of full sour mash should I mash in at the low end, say 149 or stay in the range of 152-154? Planning on heating sparge water to 168 and then doing my normal 2 step batch sparge follwed by the hops and a quick 15 min boil and the pitch clean ale yeast. Am I missing anything?
Wondering if my coller will hold the temp around 110-120 for 48 hours if the room temp is at least 70F and wrapped in heavy towels?

Oops, for got to mention I will use raw uncrushed grain in the mash for the lacto.  Also, do I drain after souring then sparge or add first sparge addition and then drain?

42
Beer Recipes / Re: Help w Smoked Baltic design plz!
« on: November 02, 2012, 06:00:52 AM »
Thanks, I will think about bumping the rye, so lager yeast at ale temps? 

43
Beer Recipes / Re: Help w Smoked Baltic design plz!
« on: November 01, 2012, 12:01:55 PM »
Anyone?

44
Beer Recipes / Help w Smoked Baltic design plz!
« on: October 31, 2012, 08:41:18 PM »
My first attempt at a Baltic porter, want to add some Rye and the smoked malt, this is my first "rough draft" of the recipe.  All help/critiques welcomed!..

Smokey Rye
Baltic Porter
Type: All Grain Date: 10/31/2012
Batch Size (fermenter): 4.50 gal Brewer: Oposition Brewing Co.
Boil Size: 6.97 gal Asst Brewer: 
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: My AG Setup
End of Boil Volume 5.72 gal Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 4.25 gal Est Mash Efficiency 79.4 %
Fermentation: My Aging Profile Taste Rating(out of 50): 30.0
Taste Notes: 
Ingredients
 

Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5 lbs Pale Ale Malt 2-Row (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 1 37.6 %
3 lbs Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 2 22.6 %
3 lbs Smoked Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 3 22.6 %
1 lbs Rye, Flaked (2.0 SRM) Grain 4 7.5 %
12.8 oz Chocolate Wheat Malt (400.0 SRM) Grain 5 6.0 %
8.0 oz Caramel Munich 60L (Briess) (60.0 SRM) Grain 6 3.8 %
0.50 oz Nugget [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 7 21.5 IBUs
0.50 oz Saaz [4.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 8 5.1 IBUs
0.50 oz Saaz [4.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 9 3.3 IBUs
1.0 pkg London Ale (White Labs #WLP013) [35.49 ml] Yeast 10 -
 

45
Ask the Experts / Re: Ask the Experts: Mitch Steele on IPA
« on: October 26, 2012, 02:14:42 PM »
Hello and thanks to Mitch for taking the time to answer questions for the homebrewing community!  Also, thank goodness Stone is finally in Iowa!
     Here is my question.  I can not seem to make an IPA that is even close to commercial levels and I always seem to get the same flavor profile; a kind of dirt flavor with a nasty bitterness.  I have tried different water, malts, hops, mash temps and hop addition times.  I am shooting for a nice dank or resinous IPA and have been using Simcoe, Centennial, Chinnok and CTZ mostly.  I am pretty confident that the hops are not the problem as I have used from several different sources. I am also pretty solid on my fermentation temps.  I usually just toss my pellets into the boil and ferment for 2 weeks or so.  My last 2 ideas are to bag my hops and to rack off the trub as soon as the bulk of fermentation is done, any other helpful hints?

Thanks again, Chad

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4