Yep. Ocean beaches, mountains, water falls, river gorges, high desert, all within a few hours drive.
Some good beer and eats too.
Some good beer and eats too.
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
CO2 in your tank is liquid, so the pressure will be constant for a given temperature until all of the liquid has evaporated into gas. At this point, you're almost empty, so the high pressure gauge is not very useful.The CO2 in the tank is gas over liquid, to be more exact. I think you know that from the rest of your post.
At room temperature, if you have any liquid CO2 left you'll read 816 psi.
that is killer water for building up recipes with. Plug that into Brunwater and you will be good to go.The water in most of NC is very good.
You need to be careful when using bleach as it will leave off flavors in the beer if not rinsed completely. Band aid, phenolic off flavors are never a nice thing to have to drink.+1 and it attacks stainless steel.
I am trying to produce better quality and also make ithe easier.Those are great goals.
I take offense at the Pekko-brand marketing material (re: http://www.adha.us/sites/default/files/uploads/logo-pekko.jpg). There's a subset of craft beer attitude that is entirely adolescent; meaning, I personally need to be done with it. It has no place for those who have any kind of respect for women, and their marketing style doesn't appear to have anything to do with good hops. Passing it up and staying clear of whomever is http://adha.us.The packages we got from HomebrewCon have a sticker that says Artwork Banned, over the artwork linked above.
Much of the PNW, the Southeast (except FL) and the New England have soft water.I would suggest using all RO and Brunwater to add back, depending on the style selected to brew. Otherwise, you are kind of shooting in the dark. Adding some gypsum for the IPA is probably a no-brainer, but my well water is so bad that all I can reliably make from a pH perspective are dark stouts and porters and even they have too much iron to be palatable.+1 on the RO water if you are on a well. I couldn't possibly brew beer from our water straight from the well.
RO will let you dial in things much more reliably. Best of luck.
OTOH, my well water is amazing and I think one of the reasons my beer turns out as well as it does. Sure, well water can be bad, but it's far from a given.
Lion Stout is under Tropical Stout in the 2015 guidelines.I see it as more of a foreign export stout style with perhaps a lager yeast to keep the fermentation profile fairly clean.
Good call - it's pretty much a foreign export.
Actually per BJCP:
Characteristic Ingredients: Similar to a sweet stout, but with more gravity. Pale and dark roasted malts and grains. Hops mostly for bitterness. May use adjuncts and sugar to boost gravity. Typically made with warm-fermented lager yeast.
Style Comparison: Tastes like a scaled-up sweet stout with higher fruitiness. Similar to some Imperial Stouts without the high bitterness, strong/burnt roastiness, and late hops, and with lower alcohol. Much more sweet and less hoppy than American Stouts. Much sweeter and less bitter than the similar-gravity Export Stouts.
I just haven't seen much written on this style....
Ok, cool. I hadn't seen the guidelines. I was wrong on the Lion Stout - it's brewed in Sri Lanka (which is why I assumed it was considered a tropical stout), but it's actually classified as a foreign export. So my impressions of it were based on a foreign export flavor profile. My bad.