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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 16oz Cans for NHC
« on: Today at 12:19:30 AM »
My opinion is that if it fits in the size restriction it is OK. That rule is to make sure the entries fit in standard cases, and that those stack evenly on a shipping pallet.

I will wait for the official response.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Why Do we Lager
« on: March 16, 2018, 01:04:48 PM »
On the Ayinger tour it was explained that when their beers hit certain lab and sensory points, they don’t wait, they filter and package it.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water
« on: March 16, 2018, 12:58:22 PM »
Have you read the Water Knowledge Page in Bru’nwater? That should answer some of your questions.

Ingredients / Re: cherries
« on: March 15, 2018, 08:38:26 PM »
I prefer Balaton over Montmorency cherries, but
that is my palate. Schaarbeek cherries are almost impossible to find in the US.

I gave up looking for sour cherries where I used to live and planted a couple of trees.
They grow a lot of eating cherries in the NW.

For some reason, Michigan grows about 75% of the sour/culinary cherries.

MIchigan State has a prof that has been trying to diversify the sour cherry varieties. There are many from Hungary and Poland that have never been introduced here.

The Pub / Re: Rockin the AHA Discount
« on: March 15, 2018, 01:10:54 PM »
I will just mention that the BrewGuru app will show all of the available discounts on a map. Change the location to Denver and you will see a large number of places shown as orange, which means they give the discount.

The Pub / Re: Rockin the AHA Discount
« on: March 15, 2018, 01:00:26 AM »
Umm, that big one counts as Candian now and not Colorado, right? ;D

Can you explain that? I logged into BruGuru and the Coors brewery is not a member deal location. Do you have other information to share.

The entry rules will most likely list how the bottles will be presented.  Usually bottles can not have any identifiable markings.  A colored cap could be considered an identifier.

Which color do you consider the standard? Silver, gold, black?

As long as there are no identifiers, it is good. I have judged many beers where black magic marker was used to cover the brewers identifying marks.

The Pub / Re: Rockin the AHA Discount
« on: March 14, 2018, 12:39:13 PM »
When we went to Denver everywhere we went had an AHA discount, ranging from 10%, 15% even 20% off your bill (or your beer at least, most places we went we had drinks only).  We probably saved 30-40$ in that 10 days alone. 

I never remember to use it here at home because at my LHBS I get a discount for being a member of the local club who meets there at the store (10%, same as AHA) and at the local pubs I always forget to ask.  I remember when I travel, but here at home.. nope.
The same here. Yes, Colorado has a high amount of businesses in the deals program. Must be that the home office is in Boulder?

Equipment and Software / Re: Aluminum Kettle
« on: March 14, 2018, 03:39:29 AM »
It occurs to me that that rough finish could be useful in promoting agitation in my low intensity boils.  Another thing to factor into the decision.  I can't say I've noticed significant (noticeable without actually timing) differences between other similar size Al and SS pots I have in the kitchen in time to boil.  I bet it's not worth paying up for steel just for that.  Thanks, Jeff, you've provided my "learn something every day" today.
Nothing wrong with an AL kettle, and as you say, the price is right.

Equipment and Software / Re: Aluminum Kettle
« on: March 14, 2018, 02:51:44 AM »
No what I said is that AL is 1/3 the strength of steel, so it need to be 3 times as thick for equivalent properties of the part. It can save weight in casings with complex geometry. It isn’t magic.

The heat transfer is better, but beware of thickness differences. Al is thicker, so it loses some advantage there. Years back I ran a test of an Alimknum pot vs. a SS pot, pretty much the same size. The SS pot got the water to a boil quicker. Thickness differences, and also the surface finish do the AL being rough, and allowing vapor bubbles to form and reduce heat transfer are what I attributed that to. I never did a follow up, where I would polish the AL pot and see if it got faster at heating the water.

So as in most everything homebrewing, it depends.

The Pub / Re: Rockin the AHA Discount
« on: March 14, 2018, 02:25:02 AM »
If you don’t pay for the membership cost with the member benefits, you’re doing it wrong!

alestateyall, you’re doing it right!

Equipment and Software / Re: Aluminum Kettle
« on: March 14, 2018, 02:22:40 AM »
I use aluminum and love it.  My mash/boil kettle is a 10 gal 6mm 3003 aluminum pot, I have an 8 gal for HLT.  Aluminum  is a much better conductor of heat than SS, so it heats quickly and boils superbly (why they put aluminum cores in high end SS cookware.) It is also  cheap (my 10 gal ~$70 at restaurant supply.)  As for denting? Heck, I could take a sledge hammer and I don't think I could dent it.  Steel is easy to dent and ding! They just don't make steel as heavy gauge and aluminum is still lighter.
  You do have to let that grey oxide layer stay on there.  Don't scour, don't use percarbonates like PBW or OxiClean, just use dish liquid only and a non-stick-friendly scrubber like a Dobie pad.
  The only other consideration I can think of is, if you were considering porting your vessels, you have to go with no-weld bulkheads. But on the upside I guess aluminum would be easier to drill!

As an old automotive engineer, AL has 1/3 the Young’s modulus and 1/3 the shear modulus. So if it is 3 times as thick as steel it is equivalent.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Corny volume
« on: March 14, 2018, 02:19:30 AM »
Does anybody know the volume of a 5 gal corny filled right to the brim (e.g.  for purging, or when beer reaches the gas in a closed transfer)?
I have many Cornies from different manufacturers. They all hold slightly different volumes depending on type.

How do I know this? Running PBW solution or sanitizer from a completely full keg will slightly under fill, or slightly over fill the receiving keg.

I go by weight when filling, and make sure to purge the head space.

Beer Recipes / Re: Bittering addition amounts for ipa
« on: March 13, 2018, 02:55:06 AM »
Here's a quote that indicates what I am feebly trying to articulate. "One obvious result from this experiment is that IBU values can not be directly substituted for isomerized α-acid values, especially at short steep times, high hopping rates, and sub-boiling temperatures.  This is because IBU values reflect not only isomerized α-acid values, but also contributions from oxidized α and βacids and polyphenols."

Um, soooo lab measured IBUs contain more than just isolmerized alpha acids. Like I said, whirlpool hops do bring bitterness to the beer. More than an isolmerization chart will predict.

Saying that IBUs only come from isolmerized alpha acids is like saying high alpha hops are for 60 min additions and low alpha are for dry hopping. Ya, maybe a good starting point but keep experiencing and adapting to your experience
Was that from the Janish blog?

He had some really good stuff there.

Beer Recipes / Re: Bittering addition amounts for ipa
« on: March 13, 2018, 02:00:21 AM »
I start by deciding how much FWH I want to use (OK, you guys, don't start!  ;) )  That usually is 1-2 oz.  Then I figure out how much to use at 60 min. to get in the neighborhood of the 1:1 BU:GU ratio Jess talks about.
Is that ratio guideline for total ibus? Or just the bittering additions?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not to speak for Denny but, usually when people reffer to GU/BU its total they are talking about. 1:1 would be like 1.060 to 60 IBU.

The trouble is when it comes to high dose whirlpool additions. The science might say that no isolmerization is happening below X temp, but our mouths still translate those additions as some level of bitterness, though zero IBUs. If anyone doubts that, do a batch with no boil hops, and about 3 ounces of Simcoe at 150F for 30 min. There will be some bitterness. So, like any other ingredient, sometimes we can totally reduce hops to a numerical matrix. But experience will tell you what you like, don't like.

The science from OSU says isomorization goes on below boiling. You get less as the temperature goes down.
Totally, its not an on/off switch at 212. Ive heard various %s at 190/180/170 but I've not been able to find how much at 150F or below.
Try and find Mark Molowicki’s master thesis from OSU.

Scott Janish got 2 IBU from a beer dry hopped at room temperature, HPLC measurements, it’s on his blog.

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