« on: October 25, 2011, 05:33:14 AM »
Stainless Stell radiator hose clamps would be color coordinated with the filter and shelf. Keep the whole stainless motif going in your brewery. Just saying.
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It's probably just that heating it up will help the SO2 bubble out of the beer rather than some chemical change, don't you think?Some lager yeast will still kick out sulfur smells. Doing a good diacetyl rest will help scrub that out.
I'm amazed that no one pointed this out, earlier.
I get huge sulfur odor from Wyeast 2124 Behemian lager yeast.
After a diacetyl rest, it's undetectable.
You could donate a brewing session instead of the actual brew. Winner gets to help brew and keep the final product (since he made it anyway).
I like that IANAL thing. IANALE.
One other thing is that you start to get a reversal of the isomerization process at around 90 minutes, and you are making more harsh tasting compounds.
but what if you first wort hopped a wort that was boiled for 90 minutes. do you think the same would hold true?
You will get more bitterness due to the longer boil. Boiling hops for longer than 90min can bring out some vegetal notes that would be undesirable. I think you should be fine.
I boil my copper immersion chiller for 15 minutes to sanitize it in the hot wort. I've never noticed any sulphur flavours in any of my beers to date.
Has anyone done this and still had sulphur flavours?
So you missed the caveat about not diluting too much?
Nope, just misinterpreted it. I thought you were talking about using too thin a liquor:grist ratio.
is this good? according to Palmer's efficiency calculations it's not. 28pts x 3.25G / 4.625 lbs of grain = 19. Palmer says shoot for 27-30. Below 25 is poor.
Rule out simple things first. Make sure you're crushing well and that your instruments are calibrated. With this being a mini-mash, my next suggestion would be to evaluate your sparging technique. Make sure that whatever you're doing is getting all the sparge liquor in complete contact with all the grains.
The next thing too look at would be pH. With this mash having a large amount of dark roasted malt, if you used really low-alkalinity water you could have pulled the mash pH down far enough out of range that 60 min wasn't enough time for full conversion. Do you know your water chemistry? Did you check the mash pH?Munich will convert itself. Dark Munich will just convert itself. If you didn't dilute the enzymes too much, you should be OK. The iodine test says you are on your way.
I agree that this particular mash was probably fine, but you need to be careful about generalizing when it comes to Munich malts. Light Munich can be as low as 60-80 L, and Dark Munich much lower. In that case 2 lb of Munich wouldn't necessarily convert 2.5 lb of other malts - at least not quickly.
As Denny mentioned, an iodine test isn't necessarily easy to perform and interpret.
Brown thermapen for $79 + $6 shipping.
Not a huge deal but the best price I've seen them at. Guess the brown ones aren't that popular.
I don't think so either. That's not to say it doesn't (although it should convert fine if there is sufficient DP in the other grains). It has a different flavor than malted wheat, which is why I would use one instead of the other.