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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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2791
Hop Growing / Re: UK Hops at 42.42N
« on: March 20, 2015, 01:25:22 PM »
I had to look up the zone where I live, it is 5b.

http://www.248landscape.com/2012/michigan-plant-hardiness-zone-map/

2792
All Grain Brewing / Re: Anyone Else Forget Their Kettle Addition
« on: March 20, 2015, 01:18:19 PM »
It's not uncommon to see a drop of 1 or 2 points, but without a proper pH meter I wouldn't worry too much about it. Classic RDWHAHB moment.

Did you mean tenth of points?

2793
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Profiles and Mash pH
« on: March 20, 2015, 01:16:55 PM »
Water pH means little in brewing. Alkalinity needs attention, and IIRC most Belgian water profiles have a lot of HCO3. Acid will be your friend to take care of that. Mash pH is very important. Mash pH from a speadsheet is a prediction, and as an Engineer I like the verification, or not, from the pH meter measurement. If off then I adjust with acid to decrease pH, or Baking Soda/Pickling lime to increase the pH.

The city water profiles that one can find on the net should be taken with a grain of salt (pun). Brewers drop alkalinity using acid or slaked lime treatment. Brewers use gypsum or CaCl2 to adjust water (I have seen bags of those stacked high in many breweries). Some also use RO or Nano filtration to strip most of the minerals out, and blend some untreated water back to get to a profile they want.

What am I saying? If you are paying attention to water chemistry, ask what the brewer using a certain water would do. Read Martin Brungard's articles in Zymurgy, and those will give good guidance. Download Bru'nwater and look at the treated profiles in the pulldown.

There is a lot to learn, but the beer you make will benefit from your increased knowledge.


2794
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: try at batch sparging
« on: March 20, 2015, 01:02:00 PM »
So why are there so many recommendations that the fly spare should take an hour or more?  I switched to batch as I could never get the continuous spare to be anything like that long and assumed some novice error was taking place. Doing a couple pilsners this weekend and will try both styles of sparse again.
Please report back with times for the sparge, and time to boil from beginning of the sparge
for both.

2795
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: try at batch sparging
« on: March 20, 2015, 02:59:39 AM »
I have done some batch sperges. The efficiency was about the same.

As for time savings, these were 10 gallon batches, so the BTUs I can apply is the same, and it doesn't save any time to get wort into the kettle quicker.

2796
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid vs dry yeast?
« on: March 19, 2015, 04:44:27 PM »
Mark, or anyone else, do you have background on the origin of S-189?

I believe that the strain originates from the Hürlimann Brewery.

Yeah, that's what I've found also.

If I ever do a 14% lager I will use this yeast.   ;)

2797
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: BJCP Tasting Exam....I Passed!
« on: March 19, 2015, 04:43:15 PM »
yeah I'm pretty happy. burns a little to know I would probably have done better if I read the instructions more closely but lesson learned.

Don't feel bad, NOBODY reads the instructions...everybody jumps in. For a short time the examinee was asked to initial each line that they read it, I wish we still had that.

When we gave the essay exam getting the examinees to number the pages correctly was like herding cats, all of a sudden intelligent adults became children with one of those big fat pencils and paper which tore as soon as you touched it with the lead. I'm not quite sure why that was, but eventually I made a template and gave it to every examinee. Several still got it wrong.

thanks Mike. I've got some time before I'm eligible for the written exam (I've only got 3.5 points right now) but you can be sure I'll read all the instructions carefully when I do.
Big thing with the written exam is practicing answering those questions as quickly as possible.  I got my exam, read through it, and thought "Wow I'm going to ace this thing.  I could answer these with my eyes closed."... Well that is true... but answering them in the allotted time proved to be a different thing altogether lol.

Exactly.

2798
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Vienna Lager
« on: March 19, 2015, 04:41:58 PM »
The Devils Backbone Vienna that was presented for tasting at the Long Live Lagers talk last year, by Jason Oliver and Warren Haskell (SP) was outstanding.

The recipe is in their talk, which you can find on the NHC page.

2799
Beer Recipes / Re: Wheat beer Ideas
« on: March 19, 2015, 03:18:56 PM »
380 American, 300 german.
?
white labs yeast. They're both German yeast; fingers and brain not working together this early. 320 is the American version. I prefer 300 just because I can balance out the clove and banana as I like. 380 is really all clove dominant.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Both German origin, but the 320 is the Zum Uerige altbier yeast that was carried back to Widmer, and after makeing the Widmer Hefe for all those years is very powdery. Not a clove producer, lacking the POF gene. Zum Ueriges yeast is the Wyeast 1007 = WLP-036, which is a very clean top fermenter.

2800
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid vs dry yeast?
« on: March 19, 2015, 03:12:18 PM »
.
34/70 is my go to lager yeast.
I really like it too, but I brewed a maibock today using S-189: a really good yeast if you can find it.

This is to be released by Fermentis in 11.5 g sachets this year...
Mark, or anyone else, do you have background on the origin of S-189?

2801
Going Pro / Re: Cicerone Certification
« on: March 19, 2015, 03:10:27 PM »
Damn... you guys!

I'm telling that I just retired... at age 48! Perhaps that Cicerone thingy might give me something to do!?

Congratulations, that is even younger than when I retired. You will find something to keep you occupied and engaged with the world.


2802
Hey, find a local homebrew club and learn from some good people. May 2nd is big brew, where you can see people brewing on simple DIY systems to ones that take some Rocket Science.

Clubs
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/community/clubs/find-a-homebrew-club/

Big Brew - National Homebrew Day
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/aha-events/national-homebrew-day/

2803


What is this $20 you say? I definitely want to get into it, and have 0 equipment. Do you guys have some good links for brewing with stuff found at home? I figure I've always got Oatmeal, Yeast, Sugar and Water... Just need a little hop and something for it to sit in with an air-lock right?

You cant make beer with oatmeal and yeast that you have around the house.  Read the online version of Palmer's "How to Brew" and invest in a basic starter kit.  If you have a local homebrew shop they may have a decent kit, or there are several good online suppliers.  This is a great hobby and I would hate to see a new brewer discouraged from continuing because of taking short-cuts and having a bad first batch. Good luck and have fun!

For 6 bucks you can get a couple lbs of DME, for 2 bucks you can get an ounce of good hops. for 8 bucks you can get a pack of us-05, for 2 bucks you can get a gallon glass jug and another 2 bucks for a couple gallons of distilled water. where are the corners cut?

I'm just saying if the guy wants to try making beer it doesn't cost a fortune.

Never did I indicate that he could use oatmeal and bread yeast.

erictheviking,

As I listed above, if you have a good sized pasta pot at home with the stuff I listed above yo uare good to go. find your local homebrew shop, attend a meeting with a local club, come here for advice. and have a good time. it's only beer.

Raw materials and production are covered above. The packaging?

Some beer bottles that have been saved and cleaned are zero $ in most states. Some caps for those bottles are $3-5 for a gross. The capper is the pricey item, $15-20. Carbonation? Table sugar works fine.

If that is too much money, I know guys who have bottled in 2 plastic 2 liter soft drink bottles, rinsed and sanitized before filling.

2804
Equipment and Software / Re: New equipment for all grain
« on: March 19, 2015, 12:15:28 AM »
I went with the cooler method because of money and easy of entry but i like it for the hands off nature of the mash, stir it up well, close the lid and walk away for an hour or so.

+1
Stir real well and take the temp, stir a little more if need be.
Measure mash pH, adjust it need be.
I must be doing it wrong.  ;)


2805
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: BJCP Tasting Exam....I Passed!
« on: March 18, 2015, 11:21:12 PM »
Just got my score. I'm pretty sure those back of the sheet pages were the main problem.

Bu tI got an 80% so I'll take that. I got Master level in Scoring accuracy, National level in perceptive accuracy and certified everywhere else. I'm pretty sure some of that certified is because I put advice for improvement on the back of the page. maybe I'll take it again later this year.


Only the front side is scanned and photocopied. It's part of the instructions:
http://www.bjcp.org/forms/Exam_Cover_Sheet.pdf

I have no animosity towards the BJCP about that. It was my own fault 100%. I will continue to give as much feedback as I can when actually judgeing but if I have to retake the tasteing exam I will remember to keep it to the front page only.

An 80 is something to be proud of Mort!

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