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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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2791
Ingredients / Re: The "Truth" About Commercial Beer.
« on: July 30, 2013, 05:53:57 PM »
Any ass juice in my food is verboten.

See, that's where you lose me, because honey is delicious.

Is honey not regurgitated as opposed to shat out?

Maybe "mammalian ass juice" would be more precise, but I can't think of anything passed in that way that I care to ingest.  I also have no desire to seek out Kopi Luwak coffee, though if someone brewed a cup I might could be tempted...

The bees regurgitate, and use their wings to dehydrate it.

2792
Ingredients / Re: The "Truth" About Commercial Beer.
« on: July 28, 2013, 09:06:14 AM »
And why would guinness use simple sugars? To lighten the body of their 3% beer?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Here's the original blog post, which is just reposted in the link Carl has. She quotes an email from Guinness in the comments that says they use HFCS. I still don't believe it, as it doesn't make any sense to add it to the stout.
http://foodbabe.com/2013/07/17/the-shocking-ingredients-in-beer/comment-page-7/#comment-165760
Maybe in Harp?

2793
Ingredients / Re: The "Truth" About Commercial Beer.
« on: July 28, 2013, 06:19:03 AM »
The author of that article might be shocked to find that the following can be used under the Reinheitsgebot to make "pure" beers.

Slaked lime to remove alkalinity.
PVPP. A plastic to clarify.
Isinglass to clarify, if the beer is filtered (From Kai's page).

If it can be proved the material is not in the finished beer, it can be used.

2794
Ingredients / Re: The "Truth" About Commercial Beer.
« on: July 27, 2013, 12:40:25 PM »
I am shocked!

2795
Can you get a decent whirlpool with a false bottom?
There is a large % of the whole hops that end up in the center of the immersion chiller.

2796
Mine has a false bottom. Works really well with whole cone, which will act as a filter bed during the chilling recirculating phase. A large amount of pellets can clog the holes when pumping out, but a SS spoon can be used to scrape them off.

2797
Equipment and Software / Re: Wort transfer to BK pumping question
« on: July 26, 2013, 05:30:17 AM »
The volume of liquid above the pump does not matter. The lift height does. The spec for a March pump has the Max. Head pressure the pump can work against. Look you pump up in the link.
http://www.marchpump.com/series-809/

2798
All Things Food / Re: Pickles and other fermented foods
« on: July 25, 2013, 06:38:06 AM »
The are books on pickling and fermented foods by Sandor Katz.

2799
Ingredients / Re: maris otter flavor?
« on: July 24, 2013, 09:49:24 AM »
If you want to taste what MO tastes like, find some Low Color MO. Only about 2L, and not biscuity. Have had some summer ales in London made with that, and there is a good malt flavor.

2800
Equipment and Software / Re: Keggle not kegel
« on: July 24, 2013, 06:57:14 AM »
Before I had a tiered stand, I would drain my mash tun into buckets and pour them into the kettle to break it into smaller volumes.
i know some that do that. I am a little more lazy. ;)

2801
Beer Recipes / Re: English Pale Ale
« on: July 24, 2013, 06:09:25 AM »
The one I use for British Barleywines and IPAs is 1028.

One that I forgot to mention is the WLP-022 Essex Ale Yeast, which makes a great bitter. The Ordinary Bitter on tap at my house right now used this yeast, and I agree with the bready description. This is a local Brewpub's house yeast.
http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp022-essex-ale-yeast

2802
Equipment and Software / Re: Keggle not kegel
« on: July 24, 2013, 05:58:50 AM »
Nothing with 80 lbs of liquid is easy or safe to move when full. The better solution is to make changes so you don't have to move it.
With boiling hot liquid, more so.

To address the original question, use a tiered stand and gravity to transfer the liquid. The more costly solution is a pump(s) to move the liquid on a single level set up.

2803
The Pub / Re: Kitchen re-do
« on: July 23, 2013, 04:42:35 PM »
We did an kitchen renovation  about 2 months back. We were happy with the cabinets and counter tops. Replaced the $0.79/sq. ft. Contractor grade tile with 10.79 travertine. Travertine backsplash, with travertine electrical outlet covers. Also did some nice glass and SS surrounds for the can lights, and put in some LED's which make it much brighter. The appliances were getting somewhat suspect, so most were replaced with SS, and we went from an electrict to a gas stove. Efficiencies are higher, and the appliances are much quieter.


2804
Kegging and Bottling / Re: clarification methods
« on: July 21, 2013, 05:42:35 AM »
Beers clear faster at 32F, as the particles are larger, and Stoke's law says the larger particles will drop faster.

2805
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Pressure question
« on: July 20, 2013, 09:36:25 AM »
That's probably the problem - hops in the keg. It still comes out, should I do anything about it or just leave it for this batch?
If the flow stops completely, you can disconnect the tap, and the pressure. Vent the keg with the Pressure Relief Valve. Use a wrench and pull off the out post. Pull the dip tube and clear it. Inspect the poppet, and you may have to remove from the post to clear out the hops. Sanitize, and reassemble. Put the pressure on, and purge the keg a few times with the PRV. Drop the pressure to 10 PSI, attach the tap line and see if it flows. You might want to clean your tap too.

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