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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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2791
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Upgrading Homebrewing gear!
« on: July 30, 2014, 06:16:16 AM »
Thanks for that article, it has some items that I want to think about. Dr. Bamforth has said more recently that HSA is the last thing that a homebrewer should worry about, as there are other things in the brewing process to get under control first. The yeast will also clean up most of the oxygen products, so he said a good healthy fermentation will take care of a lot of problems.

I have brewed Joe and Andy Hudecek, who pour and splash with reckless abandon. Their beer turns out to be very good, and will win awards 6 to 9 months later. They do have some of the freshest yeast that you can get when they ferment. This has made me less paranoid about splashing on the hot side. I still try not to abuse the mash or wort on the hot side, but a if I have to do something to make the brew day go along, so be it.

2792
Going Pro / Re: There Better be an AHA Discount at This Place!
« on: July 30, 2014, 05:32:38 AM »
Makes for another reason to go back to Delmarva. Good luck with the brewery Ron.

2793
All Grain Brewing / Re: A little brown sugar????
« on: July 29, 2014, 05:21:22 AM »
A sugar like Muscovado adds some flavor as it has more molasses content.

2794
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Barleywine Yeast Suggestions
« on: July 28, 2014, 08:49:30 AM »
Good to know all! I will try to post back how it turns out, but with Barleywines I don't expect that to be soon.
With proper technique a barley wine can be ready in less time than a lager. It will be fresh, but enjoyable. If you want those aged flavors, that does take time.

2795
All Grain Brewing / Re: Bland IPA w/ lots of late hops?!?
« on: July 28, 2014, 08:40:49 AM »
For some reason I crash and decant the 4 to 5 liter starters for my lagers.

2796
US-05 is the Chico yeast Siebel Bry 96, AKA Sierra Nevada's the Ballantine yeast strain. Liquid equivalents are Wyeast 1056 and WLP 001. It is a clean yeast that attenuated well.

I fixed it for you!  ;D

Some of us know that, was keeping it more current. I have wondered where the old US brewers got their yeast from, probably English brewers. Any idea?

2797
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerating Wort Techniques
« on: July 26, 2014, 07:06:04 AM »
A decent amount of I 2oz pulled in at the beginning of the starter but once fermentation kicks in its just about keeping the yeast in suspension again.  This is why I pump the air in so it gets air the whole time.  It's suppose to give the yeast more sterole reserves or something... Been awhile since I looked into it... Have just been doing it for quite awhile.  I think Kai wrote something about it not too long ago.

I have used my aquarium pump to get sterile filtered air into the top of the fermenter, to simulate open fermentation. Not sure if it helped, but it didn't hurt.

Hmm there's an idea... Never thought of that.  How long did you leave it on pumping air in?
3 days or so. It was for a Saison.

2798
Ingredients / Re: Fresh (Wet) Hops
« on: July 26, 2014, 07:03:39 AM »
My aroma varieties like Tett and Hallertau then Centennial will be ready first, then Cascade, Chinook, Sterling, Mt. Hood. Nugget is always last. You are a little head of us, but also a little south which explains some of that.

I dug out my Goldings last year.

Did you dig them out because they didn't produce or just didn't use them?

They would only produce a handful of small cones after good vegetative growth. Not worth the twine and effort to string them up. They might do better in a mild climate.

Good to know. I have the same result. Great vegetation growth with very few cones. It's coming out before the changes. I'll cut from my cascade in the spring to replace it.

Any experience with Mt. Hood or Perle?
My Hood does almost as good as Cascade. No Perle in my yard, so no idea.

2799
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerating Wort Techniques
« on: July 26, 2014, 04:03:12 AM »
A decent amount of I 2oz pulled in at the beginning of the starter but once fermentation kicks in its just about keeping the yeast in suspension again.  This is why I pump the air in so it gets air the whole time.  It's suppose to give the yeast more sterole reserves or something... Been awhile since I looked into it... Have just been doing it for quite awhile.  I think Kai wrote something about it not too long ago.

I have used my aquarium pump to get sterile filtered air into the top of the fermenter, to simulate open fermentation. Not sure if it helped, but it didn't hurt.

2800
Ingredients / Re: Fresh (Wet) Hops
« on: July 26, 2014, 03:59:03 AM »
My aroma varieties like Tett and Hallertau then Centennial will be ready first, then Cascade, Chinook, Sterling, Mt. Hood. Nugget is always last. You are a little head of us, but also a little south which explains some of that.

I dug out my Goldings last year.

Did you dig them out because they didn't produce or just didn't use them?

They would only produce a handful of small cones after good vegetative growth. Not worth the twine and effort to string them up. They might do better in a mild climate.

2801
Going Pro / Re: Tribute Brewing Company article
« on: July 25, 2014, 05:23:41 PM »
Eagle River WI, might get there before Leos place, as my sister lives in Florence WI.

2802
Ingredients / Re: Fresh (Wet) Hops
« on: July 25, 2014, 05:18:30 PM »
My aroma varieties like Tett and Hallertau then Centennial will be ready first, then Cascade, Chinook, Sterling, Mt. Hood. Nugget is always last. You are a little head of us, but also a little south which explains some of that.

I dug out my Goldings last year.




2803
Ingredients / Re: Fresh (Wet) Hops
« on: July 25, 2014, 03:32:13 PM »
I'm not sure you put enough in there frank. ;D
The one we did last fall had 24 oz off the bines, it could have used more. 40? Maybe.

Frank, let us know where you are at (I forget). Mine will be ready early this year, but still a week away for the early ones, the C hops will come later in August.

2804
The other specialty grains would be the Caramunich III, and the Carapils which Steve has suggested I not use.

Why would it dilute the Munich Malt if I mashed them together?

And what's your take on using the Carapils for better head retention?

Thanks
The specialty grains have no enzymes. Munich only has enough to convert itself. So if you did a mini-mash so 1 pound of each, you would end up with 1/3 the amount of Munich enzymes on a density basis.

2805
Thanks for the tip.  I'll do it and send you an update in a couple of months when I taste the first bottle.
To be clear, do the mini-mash on just the Munich malt. You can steep the other specialty grains separately. if you do them all together the Munich's enzymes will be too diluted.

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