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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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2806
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Vienna Lager
« on: March 21, 2015, 12:44:06 AM »
Its been a while since I brewed any lagers and brewed a Vienna Lager a couple of weeks ago. I used a slight variation on this one by John Palmer: http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/ViennaLagerNHC2011

Mine was:
       4 lbs  13 oz Vienna
       3 lbs  5 oz  Pils
       2 lbs  14 oz  Munich
       5 oz CaraMunich
       3 oz Carafa I
       Perle hops 6.15HBU 60 min
       Hallertauer 2.46 HBU 20 min
       Saflager 34/70

OG of 1.055

In the second week of layering at 35*

Can't wait to see how this turns out.

The recipe was by Steve Dockter, John Palmer was the category sponsor.


2807
Many beers with high rates of Simcoe, Citra, other New World hops are just cat pee to my wife. She is much more sensitive to it. I get the pine and fruit.


2808
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: try at batch sparging
« on: March 21, 2015, 12:38:38 AM »
I times my batch sparge on 12 gallons today. Took about 16 minutes for both run offs. FWIW.

When I am done fly sparging, I am at a boil, say 45 minutes for a 10 gallon batch from the start of sparging. How long after you collected the wort were you at a boil?

2809
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: try at batch sparging
« on: March 20, 2015, 04:57:09 PM »
I started out batch sparging. There is no doubt it is faster.  No doubt to me easier, with less stress.  I switched to fly because my batch size increased.  I was having a hard time with hitting my numbers and stirring the larger amounts of grain.  There are times when I get frustrated at the sparging times.  I will remember back to the stir, rest, and dump days.  Now that I have used fly for several batches, I don't have a negative other than time.  You do need to watch your ph, but it isn't bad.  When I do do a smaller batch I batch sparge.  When batch sparging, I saved about 45 minutes.  My brew days are long now.  They are mostly 90/90 batches.  I did 16.5 gallons of IIPA, set-up, brew, cleaned, and put away in 8hrs.  I can't do it faster than that.  Brewing outside and putting away adds about an hour.   

How much of the longer day is tied up in heating and cooling larger volumes?

2810
Hop Growing / Re: UK Hops at 42.42N
« on: March 20, 2015, 01:25:22 PM »
I had to look up the zone where I live, it is 5b.

http://www.248landscape.com/2012/michigan-plant-hardiness-zone-map/

2811
All Grain Brewing / Re: Anyone Else Forget Their Kettle Addition
« on: March 20, 2015, 01:18:19 PM »
It's not uncommon to see a drop of 1 or 2 points, but without a proper pH meter I wouldn't worry too much about it. Classic RDWHAHB moment.

Did you mean tenth of points?

2812
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Profiles and Mash pH
« on: March 20, 2015, 01:16:55 PM »
Water pH means little in brewing. Alkalinity needs attention, and IIRC most Belgian water profiles have a lot of HCO3. Acid will be your friend to take care of that. Mash pH is very important. Mash pH from a speadsheet is a prediction, and as an Engineer I like the verification, or not, from the pH meter measurement. If off then I adjust with acid to decrease pH, or Baking Soda/Pickling lime to increase the pH.

The city water profiles that one can find on the net should be taken with a grain of salt (pun). Brewers drop alkalinity using acid or slaked lime treatment. Brewers use gypsum or CaCl2 to adjust water (I have seen bags of those stacked high in many breweries). Some also use RO or Nano filtration to strip most of the minerals out, and blend some untreated water back to get to a profile they want.

What am I saying? If you are paying attention to water chemistry, ask what the brewer using a certain water would do. Read Martin Brungard's articles in Zymurgy, and those will give good guidance. Download Bru'nwater and look at the treated profiles in the pulldown.

There is a lot to learn, but the beer you make will benefit from your increased knowledge.


2813
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: try at batch sparging
« on: March 20, 2015, 01:02:00 PM »
So why are there so many recommendations that the fly spare should take an hour or more?  I switched to batch as I could never get the continuous spare to be anything like that long and assumed some novice error was taking place. Doing a couple pilsners this weekend and will try both styles of sparse again.
Please report back with times for the sparge, and time to boil from beginning of the sparge
for both.

2814
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: try at batch sparging
« on: March 20, 2015, 02:59:39 AM »
I have done some batch sperges. The efficiency was about the same.

As for time savings, these were 10 gallon batches, so the BTUs I can apply is the same, and it doesn't save any time to get wort into the kettle quicker.

2815
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid vs dry yeast?
« on: March 19, 2015, 04:44:27 PM »
Mark, or anyone else, do you have background on the origin of S-189?

I believe that the strain originates from the Hürlimann Brewery.

Yeah, that's what I've found also.

If I ever do a 14% lager I will use this yeast.   ;)

2816
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: BJCP Tasting Exam....I Passed!
« on: March 19, 2015, 04:43:15 PM »
yeah I'm pretty happy. burns a little to know I would probably have done better if I read the instructions more closely but lesson learned.

Don't feel bad, NOBODY reads the instructions...everybody jumps in. For a short time the examinee was asked to initial each line that they read it, I wish we still had that.

When we gave the essay exam getting the examinees to number the pages correctly was like herding cats, all of a sudden intelligent adults became children with one of those big fat pencils and paper which tore as soon as you touched it with the lead. I'm not quite sure why that was, but eventually I made a template and gave it to every examinee. Several still got it wrong.

thanks Mike. I've got some time before I'm eligible for the written exam (I've only got 3.5 points right now) but you can be sure I'll read all the instructions carefully when I do.
Big thing with the written exam is practicing answering those questions as quickly as possible.  I got my exam, read through it, and thought "Wow I'm going to ace this thing.  I could answer these with my eyes closed."... Well that is true... but answering them in the allotted time proved to be a different thing altogether lol.

Exactly.

2817
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Vienna Lager
« on: March 19, 2015, 04:41:58 PM »
The Devils Backbone Vienna that was presented for tasting at the Long Live Lagers talk last year, by Jason Oliver and Warren Haskell (SP) was outstanding.

The recipe is in their talk, which you can find on the NHC page.

2818
Beer Recipes / Re: Wheat beer Ideas
« on: March 19, 2015, 03:18:56 PM »
380 American, 300 german.
?
white labs yeast. They're both German yeast; fingers and brain not working together this early. 320 is the American version. I prefer 300 just because I can balance out the clove and banana as I like. 380 is really all clove dominant.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Both German origin, but the 320 is the Zum Uerige altbier yeast that was carried back to Widmer, and after makeing the Widmer Hefe for all those years is very powdery. Not a clove producer, lacking the POF gene. Zum Ueriges yeast is the Wyeast 1007 = WLP-036, which is a very clean top fermenter.

2819
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid vs dry yeast?
« on: March 19, 2015, 03:12:18 PM »
.
34/70 is my go to lager yeast.
I really like it too, but I brewed a maibock today using S-189: a really good yeast if you can find it.

This is to be released by Fermentis in 11.5 g sachets this year...
Mark, or anyone else, do you have background on the origin of S-189?

2820
Going Pro / Re: Cicerone Certification
« on: March 19, 2015, 03:10:27 PM »
Damn... you guys!

I'm telling that I just retired... at age 48! Perhaps that Cicerone thingy might give me something to do!?

Congratulations, that is even younger than when I retired. You will find something to keep you occupied and engaged with the world.


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