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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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2881
All Grain Brewing / Re: Switching to All Grain
« on: March 13, 2013, 07:28:32 PM »
The first time I did all grain, I said after it was all done - " that is all there is to it?". It was good beer!
 
The last 18 years have been about making better beer and doing variations on the process. Sometimes a simple single infusion mash is a thing of beauty, and quick and simple. Sometimes a double decoction is fun, just because.

Don't be afraid of all grain. You will end up making beer, and it will probably be good beer.

2882
Kegging and Bottling / Re: how to transfer between kegs
« on: March 13, 2013, 08:23:15 AM »
Jumper from beer-out to beer-out is the way to go.  Be sure to purge the receiving keg with CO2 first.

I just bleed the receiving keg from the pressure relief valve; however, if you're transferring already carbonated beer, you could get some foaming unless you do it slowly.  Kai has a better solution for siphoning under pressure here: http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2012/08/13/five-things-that-made-brewing-easier-for-me/

Someone talked about that on the HBD years back. The CO2 on splitter is a good touch to get things started.

2883
Beer Travel / Re: Austin
« on: March 13, 2013, 05:54:14 AM »
For our next trip to TX, the wife is looking at a place to stay in Gruene for a day or two on the way back from the Valley. Nice to know that there is a decent brewery not too far in New Braunfels.

2884
Beer Travel / Re: Austin
« on: March 12, 2013, 05:32:03 PM »
Will have to see if the Niece knows about Pinthouse Pizza. Not too far from their house. Will be back soon.

2885
Events / Re: noob NHC question
« on: March 12, 2013, 12:17:57 PM »
Take 3 bottles and keep 'em cold so they won't change much.  Re-brewing just doesn't seem right, and would make me more nervous than the original beer kept cold.  Many variables in brewing small batches can make a pronounced difference in a beer from batch to batch,

That is good advice on the 3 bottles stored cold. If you have your process down, you can rebrew and then compare to the stored bottles. Some styles would benefit from a rebrew, a German Wheat for example. Some won't benefit, such as a high gravity dark beer which may benefit from age.

It is not against the rules to rebrew.

Thanks all. I'll store 3 of each cold, and see what happens....

I store my kegs cold, and only bottle what moves on, once it moves on. Minimizes the negative from bottling.

2886
The Pub / Re: Sierra Nevada: Brewer and the Geek
« on: March 12, 2013, 09:54:17 AM »
Thanks for the link Mike!

2887
Ingredients / Re: Lactate Taste Threshold Experiment
« on: March 12, 2013, 07:55:34 AM »
Keep up the good work!

2888
Events / Re: noob NHC question
« on: March 12, 2013, 05:23:26 AM »
Take 3 bottles and keep 'em cold so they won't change much.  Re-brewing just doesn't seem right, and would make me more nervous than the original beer kept cold.  Many variables in brewing small batches can make a pronounced difference in a beer from batch to batch,

That is good advice on the 3 bottles stored cold. If you have your process down, you can rebrew and then compare to the stored bottles. Some styles would benefit from a rebrew, a German Wheat for example. Some won't benefit, such as a high gravity dark beer which may benefit from age.

It is not against the rules to rebrew.

2889
Events / Re: noob NHC question
« on: March 11, 2013, 05:38:13 PM »
Yeah Red, 2 for the first round this year, and still 3 for the 2nd round.

For the second round you need enough beer for the first flight, select the Gold between all of the flights, and the Homebrewer of the year (BoS if you will).

2890
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxidation Story and Question
« on: March 11, 2013, 05:14:31 AM »
I think oxidation leads to diacetyl reformation as well. I've been having an issue with diacetyl showing up in some hoppy beers. I think it's from taking gravity readings too frequently and perhaps too much headspace in the kegs since I do 3-4 gallon batches and also not treating my yeast as I should. Could be wrong though, I'm still troubleshooting this issue.
You can get oxidation if finished beer has the diacetyl precursor left in it, and the precursor oxidizes to diacetyl. This is one more reason why you want to keep the beer away from oxygen when you package. Packaging breweries purge the bottles with CO2 before filling.

Infections will also kick out diacetyl. Pedio is one that kicks out a large amount. When it is in sour beers, one has to have Brett along with it, as the Brett will use up the diacetyl.

2891
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxidation Story and Question
« on: March 09, 2013, 11:48:46 AM »
Alcohol oxidizes to form Acetalaldehyde IIRC.

Don't know about the campden or citric acid helping. Some other person might know.

2892
Love my Mexican Lager. I'll brew mine next month. WLP940 yeast is a must...
I have one that is lagering, split between 940 and 833. Will see next week which one is I like better.

2893
I could get up off my rear, get the pH meter out and try it, but that is some work that I can avoid.  :)

Jeff, it's my great pleasure to award you the Gold Star for Pragmatism!



I a honored.

2894
 Ca that gypsum adds reacts with phosphorus compounds in the mash, resulting in the production of  H+ ions. The H+ ions are what drops the pH, by definition. Maybe Kai or Martin can say if gypsum in the sparge will help. I could get up off my rear, get the pH meter out and try it, but that is some work that I can avoid.  :)

Thanks for your service. Never been to Korea, but some I used to work with were there often. Hear the food can be good, the local beer and strong drink, not so much.

2895
I'm making a Rye IPA... so 12-lbs 2-row; 3-lbs Rye; and .5lbs 40L Crystal.  I was thinking about using some spring water (Arrowhead) for a five-gallon mash and adding 12 grams of gypsum.  Then I was thinking about adding .1 grams of gypsum in five gallons of distilled water for the sparge.  I just don't know the total alkalinity of the Arrowhead water.  I used the Brun'water calculations for what I thought was right... minus the total alkalinity number.  I'm a newb with the water chemistry and would appreciate some expert opinions.  Thanks.
If you do a search on Arrowhead water mineral content, you can find it has different mineral content depending on which spring, they use more than one. Looks to be 6 springs.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arrowhead_Water
The mineral level range can be seen here. Variation is > a factor of 10 for some minerals.
http://www.myspringwater.com/SpringWaterInformation/MineralContent.aspx

You don't know what is in your base water, unless you can contact Arrowhead and get information.

Adding the 0.1 gram of gypsum to the sparge water is to do what?

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