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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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2926
The Pub / Re: Best beer city in the world
« on: November 20, 2014, 12:06:16 PM »
Portland and Bend are great beer towns. I put them up there with Bamberg for my favorites.

He mentions Berlin as a beervtown, well it has been a while since I was there, but it is not one of the greats. There are the new small places making US influenced hoppy beers, but it takes more than that.

2927
Ingredients / Re: Onion in my IPA
« on: November 20, 2014, 06:07:35 AM »
Didn't someone post recently that the onion/garlic thing may come from hops harvested too late in the season? I've definitely gotten onion/garlic in summit. I find beers made with summit very unpleasant.

I heard that at a talk or a podcast too. Hops like Summit are sold on high AA, so they are left longer on the bine to maximize AA, and the sulfur compound that causes the onion/garlic goes up also.

2928
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My First Ever Brew
« on: November 19, 2014, 03:43:07 PM »
The only wisdom I have is that we all started with our first batch!

2929
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Boil Length & Fermentability?
« on: November 19, 2014, 02:37:21 PM »
I know that a longer boil will give me a more potent wort and slightly raise my OG, but I was wondering if a longer boil also impacts the fermentability of my wort? I am wanting to use a 2 hour boil on a big SMaSH beer to give some more depth of character, but do not want it to finish high and be cloyingly sweet. Any input or experience here?

it won't affect your fermentability but it will affect your FG because what unfermentable sugars are there will be concentrated along with everything else. the mash, grist, etc. will set the likely Attenuation percentage and this percentage won't change due to a longer boil (it'll be 77% for example whether you start at 1.050 or you boil down to 1.075 but the 1.075 is going to have 50% more unfermentables so the FG might be 50% higher (1.018 instead of 1.012). Although I doubt it would be that significant or linear.

one other thing...

there is a speed method that is utilized in the famous 'skotrat's traquair house' recipe - you boil down the first gallon of first runnings to a quart and add that to the main boil - this definitely gives you some interesting flavor, and doesn't add much time.  just make sure you watch that small boil carefully... ;)

this is where I would go with it to deepen the character. or just lot's more malt. a Single malt beer can be very complex if it's north of 1.100

Yes, 100% MO or GP boiled for 4 hours to get to 1.115 will turn out to have a lot of malt character.

Maillard reactions will happen, darkening the wort and adding yummy malty flavors.

2930
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First IPA-brewing salt question
« on: November 19, 2014, 10:24:01 AM »
I thought distilled water has zero everything and a ph of 7..So without alkalinity i can adjust the brewing water with phosphoric to get a ph to 6 and from there take a measurment after i dough in and adjust until my ph is at my target of 5.4..again excuse me im a water noob

One well know guy says he adjusts RO water to 5.5 with phosphoric acid, mashes in the base grains, and adds flavor salt additions to the kettle.

Distilled water will be 7 pH, but if exposed to air the pH will drop as CO2 will be absorbed into the water to form carbonic acid. That drops the pH to 6 or a little less.

2931
Willamette is essentially Fuggles.
US Tettnang was found to be Fuggles through DNA testing.
Thanks a lot for the info.
Hmm, not so well chosen then, I have to consider this. I have place for a total of 16 plants, overkill to have four "Fuggles". I must try to get other varieties from US next spring.

Willamette is Fuggles DNA, but is a Tripliod hybrid, so it is more robust than Fuggles. US Willamette is also different from UK Fuggles, as the terroir will give different flavor and aroma. If you don't mind Fuggles, plant one of each and see what you think. You can remove them if not to your liking.

2932
All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB and OG (yes another BIAB thread)
« on: November 19, 2014, 10:14:13 AM »
DME is about 40 points per pound per gallon.

DME carries points per pound per gallon (PPG) value of 46.  DME's PPG value is used to determine the maximum extract possible from a batch of malt based on it's dry basis, fine grind (DBFG) percentage

Briess 2-Row DBFG = 80.5%

Briess 2-Row extract in PPG = 0.805 x 46 = 37 PPG
Hey S.C., never seen that. If you have some information that shows how that is a reference standard, can you share?

The method to determine the extract from a batch of malt is the Congress Mash, which has a procedure for preparing the malt, the fine grind, the water is distilled, the time and temp are specified. And so on.
http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/blog/understanding-a-malt-analysis/

Noonan has some information on malt analysis, too.
http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/bmg/noonan.html

The brewers that have mash presses/filters can exceed 100% by a little, as they squeeze the mash and get more liquid out.

I am really looking forward to the Malt book by John Mallett. Now that the Water book is out, I think that malt is the area that is lacking in information.



2933
Thanks to all you brewmasters for sharing. One of the reasons I asked about single hops beer is that started growing hops in Sweden using rizhomes from seven American varieties that a friend bought for me, and I collected in L.A. in May. First year harvest was not big (totally 10 oz/300 grams dried weight), but all grew to the max height of the trellis (13 / 16 ft). The varieties that I managed to get were Magnum, Cascade, Zeus, Chinook, Nugget, Willamette and Tettang.  The "+1" comment stuck, do you see any good combinations using my limited hops stock, or do I need other varieties?
Willamette is essentially Fuggles.
US Tettnang was found to be Fuggles through DNA testing.

2934
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA Water profile
« on: November 19, 2014, 06:37:35 AM »
I haven't got to the point where im testing my water yet but I want to. What kind of tests or kits are you guys using? It seems like the kits are pretty pricy.
Many of us have used this lab. Test W6.
http://wardlab.com/FeeSchedule/WardLabs_FeeSchedule_Web.pdf#page=10

2935
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question regarding water
« on: November 18, 2014, 06:38:40 PM »
assuming that get's your pH where you need it it sound fine.

When I do a marzen I add some gypsum (Can't remember the actual amounts) becuase I think that a dry, crisp finish is ideal for those styles. Plenty of munich malt will get you the malty character you want but the sulfate will help with the crisp finish. FWIW

Can the gypsum be added to the boil, therefore adding the sulfate (after the mash) but not changing the mash ions or ph?

well so if you add it to the boil, you cant impact the mash PH because that's done and over with. it will change wort PH and will add the sulfates as mentioned.

everything you put in or take out of the mash impacts the mash -so keep that in mind when building your water profile for the mash.

The Ca drops the mash pH due to reactions with the Phytin in the malt, which releases a H+ ion which by definition drops the pH. I have never measured the boil pH when I add gypsum, any data that it drops the pH? I am curious, is all.

I have not and could be completely wrong in that presumption that it plays any role alone or in conjunction in lowering PH . I've added calcium chloride and gypsum in boil and only taken PH to make sure I'm somewhere in the optimal range for hot break. 

Something I read:
Wort pH will fall from 5.6–5.8 at the start of boiling to around 5.2–5.4 at the end. This is primarily due to the precipitation of calcium phosphate. Calcium ions in brewing water reacts with phosphates from the malt to form calcium phospate and hydrogen ions, which lower wort pH.

This demonstrates the importance of excess calcium ions in the wort after mashing. For this reason, it is sometimes a good idea to add gypsum to the kettle. If your mash pH is fine, but the pH does not drop to at least 5.4 by the end of the boil, add 1/4–1/2 teaspoon of gypsum per five gallons. 



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thanks, good information. I need to check kettle pH more often.

2936
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question regarding water
« on: November 18, 2014, 05:48:16 PM »
assuming that get's your pH where you need it it sound fine.

When I do a marzen I add some gypsum (Can't remember the actual amounts) becuase I think that a dry, crisp finish is ideal for those styles. Plenty of munich malt will get you the malty character you want but the sulfate will help with the crisp finish. FWIW

Can the gypsum be added to the boil, therefore adding the sulfate (after the mash) but not changing the mash ions or ph?

well so if you add it to the boil, you cant impact the mash PH because that's done and over with. it will change wort PH and will add the sulfates as mentioned.

everything you put in or take out of the mash impacts the mash -so keep that in mind when building your water profile for the mash.

The Ca drops the mash pH due to reactions with the Phytin in the malt, which releases a H+ ion which by definition drops the pH. I have never measured the boil pH when I add gypsum, any data that it drops the pH? I am curious, is all.


2937
I wouldn't use any British or German hops in a single hop AIPA, for starters. So no Kent Goldings, Fuggles, Hallertau, Saaz, etc.

These are good for this : Centennial, Citra, Simcoe, Mosaic, Ahtanum, Chinook, Equinox, Nugget, Columbus, to name a few.

EDIT  -  I'd add Galaxy, Nelson Sauvin, Azacca, Calypso and El Dorado.  An El Dorado IPA would be a 'fruit bomb' but it might be interesting....once.

I plan on doing a Mandarina Bavaria Pale Ale in the near future. Huell Melon would be another good choice. Don't count the Germans out.

2938
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First IPA-brewing salt question
« on: November 18, 2014, 03:02:48 PM »
There was a recent article in the local monthly beer magazine which interviewed San Diegos award winning IPA homebrewers. They touched on each main ingredient. Kelsey McNair starts with r/o water and adds gypsum and calcium chloride and sometimes Epsom salts. He shoots for 250 ppm sulfates, 100-120 calcium and likes the chloride at a 1 to 5 ratio vs gypsum. He also says "bicarbonate is your enemy".

The purpose of adding salts to the mash is for mash ph. Salts can be added to the boil or anytime after. A salt to taste approach, everyones tastes are unique.

starting PH in bru'n water is 5.30:
- adding 1.2gr baking soda to 5.6 gal water results in +.1  PH (now 5.4) and +40ppm Bicarb
or
- adding .7gr pickling lime to 5.6 gal water results in +.1 PH (now 5.4) and +56ppm bicarb

so adding pickling lime vs. baking soda  to shift .1PH results in higher bicarb PPM

I think I now see what you were saying. The absolute level of bicarb is not that high.

My point is that pickling lime is pretty powerful, and has its use as you add Ca and not Na, as for some styles the Na might not be desired.

For the record, I have both in my sealed jar of salts that gets brought out on brewday.

2939
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First IPA-brewing salt question
« on: November 18, 2014, 01:34:28 PM »
I also target 5.4 pH for IPA (and most beers).  5.5 for dark beers, 5.3 for pale lagers, and 5.2 for saison.

what level bicarb you running on you r IPA's?

I'll post after I get home to check, Ken. It usually involves bumping from  ~ 5.3-5.35 up to 5.4 - not a ton. And starting from RO water, bicarb starts out at very little.

your profile seems very similar to mine. i add 1.4gr baking soda to get about 5.4 and thats around 64ppm bicarb.

try pickling lime over baking soda.

it takes more calcium hydroxide to move the PH up to 5.4 with a higher bicarb PPM resulting, than 1.4gr baking soda and less of  bicarb PPM shift.
The pH will move more with Ca(OH)2, as you add 2 OH- ions, and the Ca will move it down a little. You add NaHCO3 (baking soda) and you get one HCO3- ion, the Na doesn't move the pH.

Looking at the Brunwater example I have, adding 0.1 gr/gallon will move the pH up 0.9 for pickling lime and 0.5 for baking soda.

2940
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question regarding water
« on: November 18, 2014, 01:21:30 PM »
Correct me if im wrong but doesn't the malts have enough mg that there is no need to add any?
I think it depends on the style. The malt does supply Mg, enough for yeast health. The yeast will take up Mg, then what? You may not have enough for the flavor it gives - it is known as Bittersalz in German. Some of the ions can be pretty low, but work to give a certain taste.

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