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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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3016
Ingredients / Re: Smoking my malt
« on: November 23, 2014, 04:06:39 PM »
I usually smoke dry.  Slightly spritzed with distilled water may increase the smoke uptake, but not by much, and as Steve says, mold could develop if you don't use it right away,
I have usually spritzed following the advice in Ray Daniels "Smoked Beer" book, but if you do dry I will try that.

1. Cuts out some steps and minor fussing with the malt.
2. You have been so successful with smoked beers, why argue with success.

Thinking about an AK Smoked Porter clone, soon.

 

3017
All Grain Brewing / Re: Aerating Question
« on: November 21, 2014, 06:38:13 PM »
If you get the wort cool before you recirculate with splashing, there should be no problems.

One guy I know will back off the inlet to the pump a few partial turns until he sees small bubbles come out the other end, doing this just before chilling is done, and he often pitches the yeast while this is going on.

I pump wide open into the fermenter, which causes a lot foam, then pitch the yeast. The yeast will consume the O2.

3018
Beer Recipes / Re: everett mash
« on: November 21, 2014, 11:01:17 AM »
adding the roasted grains late in the mash is primarily to help prevent too much pH drop in the mash. roasted grains will drop the pH a lot so if you have soft water and don't want to add a bunch of salts to up the alkalinity you can do this. The problem is that you then potentially have too low a final beer pH because the dark malts are still going to lower the pH when you add them so you either risk a thin, acrid roast character or you add salts to the kettle or even the keg (ask me how I know).

Now, cold steeping dark grains is a different story in my opinion. when you soak the dark grains in room temp water for a couple hours you will extract the color and some pleasant roast flavors with little to no acid or acridness. similar to cold steeped coffee. The resulting liqour can be added to the kettle at 5 minutes to go to sanitize.

the 30 minute mash time probably has more to do with it being adapted from a pro system recipe. when it takes 20-60 minutes to lauter there is plenty of time for conversion to complete.

either that or they are going for a wort that is not very fermentable which with that high an FG is possible

I have experience with cold steeping, so that's going to be OK. It's just that extremely short mash time. Now, to be honest, I already brewed a first test batch with extract. Mashed the usual 60 minutes at 68C before mashing out. The beer fermented down to 1.028. I do think the technique has to do to keep the porter sweet, but looking at my test batch, would the short mash time make a lot of difference?
If I were to do this one, I would target 157-158 F, and check for conversion. Beta denatures at 158F, so this would be more conservative. You might try a couple of test mashes at 158 and 160 F and see if there is much difference.

3019
Beer Recipes / Re: everett mash
« on: November 21, 2014, 09:27:57 AM »
Many commercial breweries mash high, as the base malt is North American 2-row, as is this recipe. The NA malts are called "hot" in that the Diastatic Power is very high, and there is enough Beta Amalyse to get the job done even at temperatures where it is denaturing.

3020
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Timing a D rest
« on: November 21, 2014, 09:18:03 AM »
75% is a good rule of thumb, sometimes I make sure I have at least 2 degrees Plato to go when I ramp up. Taste the beer to decide if you need more time at the elevated temperature.

3021
Ingredients / Re: Onion in my IPA
« on: November 20, 2014, 06:46:29 PM »
Mosaic is a crazy hops..one time it will be like fruits very simcoe like another time it was like sweaty armpits..unpredicable hop IMO

So, either way, it kind of sucks.   8)

Mosaic and Simcoe... my two least favorite hops.  Personal preference.

Mosaic is a daughter of Simcoe, so there you go! I actually like Simcoe, and really like Mosaic. We all have our taste preferences.

3022
All Things Food / Re: My German mustard has arrive
« on: November 20, 2014, 05:44:51 PM »
Yep, good stuff, I buy it too! There's a German guy here in Indy who runs an excellent meat market - guy makes an amazing variety of killer sausages. That's one of the mustards I put on them. Along with a nuclear horseradish mustard. Hard to beat.
Has to be Claus's market. When we walk through the door it smells exactly like a German Metzger. I need to look at the mustard selection next time.

Edit - we have been there at times that we think that we are the only native English speakers on either side of the meat case.

3023
The Pub / Re: Best beer city in the world
« on: November 20, 2014, 12:06:16 PM »
Portland and Bend are great beer towns. I put them up there with Bamberg for my favorites.

He mentions Berlin as a beervtown, well it has been a while since I was there, but it is not one of the greats. There are the new small places making US influenced hoppy beers, but it takes more than that.

3024
Ingredients / Re: Onion in my IPA
« on: November 20, 2014, 06:07:35 AM »
Didn't someone post recently that the onion/garlic thing may come from hops harvested too late in the season? I've definitely gotten onion/garlic in summit. I find beers made with summit very unpleasant.

I heard that at a talk or a podcast too. Hops like Summit are sold on high AA, so they are left longer on the bine to maximize AA, and the sulfur compound that causes the onion/garlic goes up also.

3025
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My First Ever Brew
« on: November 19, 2014, 03:43:07 PM »
The only wisdom I have is that we all started with our first batch!

3026
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Boil Length & Fermentability?
« on: November 19, 2014, 02:37:21 PM »
I know that a longer boil will give me a more potent wort and slightly raise my OG, but I was wondering if a longer boil also impacts the fermentability of my wort? I am wanting to use a 2 hour boil on a big SMaSH beer to give some more depth of character, but do not want it to finish high and be cloyingly sweet. Any input or experience here?

it won't affect your fermentability but it will affect your FG because what unfermentable sugars are there will be concentrated along with everything else. the mash, grist, etc. will set the likely Attenuation percentage and this percentage won't change due to a longer boil (it'll be 77% for example whether you start at 1.050 or you boil down to 1.075 but the 1.075 is going to have 50% more unfermentables so the FG might be 50% higher (1.018 instead of 1.012). Although I doubt it would be that significant or linear.

one other thing...

there is a speed method that is utilized in the famous 'skotrat's traquair house' recipe - you boil down the first gallon of first runnings to a quart and add that to the main boil - this definitely gives you some interesting flavor, and doesn't add much time.  just make sure you watch that small boil carefully... ;)

this is where I would go with it to deepen the character. or just lot's more malt. a Single malt beer can be very complex if it's north of 1.100

Yes, 100% MO or GP boiled for 4 hours to get to 1.115 will turn out to have a lot of malt character.

Maillard reactions will happen, darkening the wort and adding yummy malty flavors.

3027
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First IPA-brewing salt question
« on: November 19, 2014, 10:24:01 AM »
I thought distilled water has zero everything and a ph of 7..So without alkalinity i can adjust the brewing water with phosphoric to get a ph to 6 and from there take a measurment after i dough in and adjust until my ph is at my target of 5.4..again excuse me im a water noob

One well know guy says he adjusts RO water to 5.5 with phosphoric acid, mashes in the base grains, and adds flavor salt additions to the kettle.

Distilled water will be 7 pH, but if exposed to air the pH will drop as CO2 will be absorbed into the water to form carbonic acid. That drops the pH to 6 or a little less.

3028
Willamette is essentially Fuggles.
US Tettnang was found to be Fuggles through DNA testing.
Thanks a lot for the info.
Hmm, not so well chosen then, I have to consider this. I have place for a total of 16 plants, overkill to have four "Fuggles". I must try to get other varieties from US next spring.

Willamette is Fuggles DNA, but is a Tripliod hybrid, so it is more robust than Fuggles. US Willamette is also different from UK Fuggles, as the terroir will give different flavor and aroma. If you don't mind Fuggles, plant one of each and see what you think. You can remove them if not to your liking.

3029
All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB and OG (yes another BIAB thread)
« on: November 19, 2014, 10:14:13 AM »
DME is about 40 points per pound per gallon.

DME carries points per pound per gallon (PPG) value of 46.  DME's PPG value is used to determine the maximum extract possible from a batch of malt based on it's dry basis, fine grind (DBFG) percentage

Briess 2-Row DBFG = 80.5%

Briess 2-Row extract in PPG = 0.805 x 46 = 37 PPG
Hey S.C., never seen that. If you have some information that shows how that is a reference standard, can you share?

The method to determine the extract from a batch of malt is the Congress Mash, which has a procedure for preparing the malt, the fine grind, the water is distilled, the time and temp are specified. And so on.
http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/blog/understanding-a-malt-analysis/

Noonan has some information on malt analysis, too.
http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/bmg/noonan.html

The brewers that have mash presses/filters can exceed 100% by a little, as they squeeze the mash and get more liquid out.

I am really looking forward to the Malt book by John Mallett. Now that the Water book is out, I think that malt is the area that is lacking in information.



3030
Thanks to all you brewmasters for sharing. One of the reasons I asked about single hops beer is that started growing hops in Sweden using rizhomes from seven American varieties that a friend bought for me, and I collected in L.A. in May. First year harvest was not big (totally 10 oz/300 grams dried weight), but all grew to the max height of the trellis (13 / 16 ft). The varieties that I managed to get were Magnum, Cascade, Zeus, Chinook, Nugget, Willamette and Tettang.  The "+1" comment stuck, do you see any good combinations using my limited hops stock, or do I need other varieties?
Willamette is essentially Fuggles.
US Tettnang was found to be Fuggles through DNA testing.

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